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Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert Imst 2010.JPG
Jakob Schubert, Imst 2010
Personal information
Nationality Austria
Born December 31, 1990 (1990-12-31) (age 30)
Innsbruck, Austria
Occupation Professional sport climber
Height 173 cm
Weight 63 kg
Website https://www.jakob-schubert.com
Climbing career
Type of climber Sport climbing
Highest grade
  • Redpoint: 9b+ (5.15c)
  • On-sight: 8c (5.14b)
Known for Three times World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) and twice World Champion (2012, 2018) in Lead climbing
First ascents 9a (5.14d)
Updated on August 5, 2021.

Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. He is a World Champion (2012, 2018) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in Lead climbing, and his highest redpointed grade on rock is 9b+. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo.

Biography

He started climbing in 2003, when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in the World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven world Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco. The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.

In 2014, he won the World Cup for the second time.

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and home town, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Skofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.

Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.

Rankings

BW 2012-08-26 Jakob Schubert AUS 0854
Jakob Schubert at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.
See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup

Discipline 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Lead 26 7 4 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 6 1
Bouldering 60 65 19 3 2 - 25 23 10 9
Speed - - - - - 43 59 - - - - 59
Combined - - 4 2 1 1 1 - 4 2 6 1

Climbing World Championships

Youth

Discipline 2004
Youth B
2005
Youth B
2006
Youth A
2007
Youth A
2008
Juniors
2009
Juniors
Lead 33 2 2 1 1 1

Adult

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019
Lead 26 2 1 5 2 1 3
Bouldering - - - - - 10 2
Speed - - - - - 110
Combined - - - - - 1

Climbing European Championships

Discipline 2008 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 6 3 7 6 3
Bouldering - - 3 4 -
Speed - - 35 27 31

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead

Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2004 Youth B 1 1
2005 Youth B 1 1
2006 Youth A 3 1 1 5
Total 3 1 3 7

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2008 1 1
2009 1 1 2
2010 1 2 1 4
2011 7 1 1 9
2012 1 3 1 5
2013 2 2 1 5
2014 2 1 2 5
2015 2 2 4
2016 2 3 5
2017 2 1 3
2018 2 3 5
Total 18 17 13 48

Bouldering

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2011 1 1
2012 1 1 2
2013 1 1 1 3
2018 1 1
2019 1 1 2
Total 3 2 4 9

Rock climbing

For the most up-to-date list of ascents visit Jakob Schubert's profile on theCrag.

Redpointed routes

9b+ (5.15c):

  • Perfecto Mundo - Margalef (ESP) - November 9, 2019 - Third ascent (first by Alexander Megos)

9b (5.15b):

  • Neanderthal - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 28, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • El Bon Combat - Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) - December 1, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Stoking the Fire - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 5, 2018 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013)
  • La Planta da Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - January 4, 2016 - Second ascent after Adam Ondra
  • Fight or flight - Oliana ([[Spain|Template:ISO 3166 code-3 ES]]) - December 31, 2014 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011)

9a+ (5.15a)

  • Catxasa - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 9, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Seleccio Anal - Oliana (ESP) - January 8, 2017
  • Pachamama - Oliana (ESP) - January 2, 2017 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
  • Joe Mama - Oliana (ESP) - December 27, 2016 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Kangroo Limb - Flatanger (NOR) - May 29, 2016 - Second ascent after Adam Ondra
  • Companion of Change - Zillertal (AUT) - November 18, 2015 - First ascent
  • Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - April 27, 2011 - Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)

9a (5.14d):

  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten - Ötztal ([[Austria|Template:ISO 3166 code-3 AT]]) - November 8, 2016 - First ascent
  • Kraftplatzl - Berglsteiner See (AUT) - October 15, 2016 - Second Ascent after David Lama
  • Direct open your mind - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 3, 2013
  • Analogica Natural - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 2, 2013
  • Seleccio Natural - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 28, 2012
  • Ciudad de Dios - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 24, 2012
  • Martin Krpan - Misja Pec ([[Slovenia|Template:ISO 3166 code-3 SI]]) - November 21, 2011
  • Hades - Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) - May 30, 2010 - First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008
  • Underground - Massone, Arco (ITA) - March 30, 2010 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

  • Aitzol - Margalef (ESP) - April 23, 2011

Boulder problems

8C (V15)
  • Sierra Madre - Zillertal (AUT) - November 20, 2018
8B+ (V14)
  • Witness the fitness - Cova de Ocell (ESP) - January 13, 2019 - flashed
  • Hide and Sick - Maltatal (AUT) - March 25, 2018
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