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Chris Sharma

Sharma in 2008

Personal information

Born

April 23, 1981 (age 44)
Santa Cruz, California, U.S.

Occupation

Professional rock climber

Height

6 ft 0 in

Weight

165 lb

Spouse(s)

Jimena Alarcón

Climbing career

Type of climber

Sport climbing
Bouldering
Deep water solo
Competition climbing

Highest grade

Redpoint: 5.15c (9b+)
On-sight: 5.14b (8c)
Bouldering: V15 (8C)

Known for

First to climb consensus sport 9a+ (5.15a), 9b (5.15b), and second to climb 9b+ (5.15c)
First to climb DWS grades at 9a+ (5.15a)

First ascents

The Mandala (V12, 2000)
Realization (5.15a, 2001)
Es Pontàs (5.15a, 2006)
Jumbo Love (5.15b 2008)

Medal record

Men's competition climbing

Representing United States
World Championships
Silver	1997 Paris	Lead
World Youth Championships
Gold	1995	Lead

Updated on 20 June 2022.

Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April 1981) is an American rock climber. Many people think he is one of the greatest and most important climbers ever. He was the top sport climbing athlete for about ten years. This started after he climbed Realization/Biographie in 2001. This was the first time anyone had ever climbed a route graded 9a+ (5.15a). This climb changed how people approached the sport.

In 2008, Sharma was the first person to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, called Jumbo Love. In 2013, he became only the second person to climb a 9b+ (5.15c) route, La Dura Dura. Sharma is also famous for climbing Es Pontàs in 2006. This was the first-ever 9a+ (5.15a) deep-water solo route. Chris Sharma became very successful in climbing. He was known for his "King Lines." These were amazing routes that he spent months or even years trying to climb. Some of these climbs are in the 2007 film, King Lines.

Chris Sharma's Early Life
Chris Sharma's Climbing Career
Chris Sharma's Impact on Climbing
Chris Sharma's Personal Life
- Zen and Climbing
Chris Sharma's Amazing Climbs
Films Featuring Chris Sharma
Chris Sharma's Competition Results
See also

Chris Sharma's Early Life

Chris Omprakash Sharma was born and grew up in Santa Cruz, California. He was the only child of Gita Jahn and Bob Sharma. His parents followed the yogi Baba Hari Dass. They took the last name Sharma when they got married. Chris started rock climbing when he was 12 years old. He went to the Pacific Edge Climbing Gym. He said he was one of the first climbers who grew up in a climbing gym.

Chris Sharma's Climbing Career

Becoming a Climbing Star (1996–2002)

From the very beginning, Chris Sharma was seen as a super talented climber. When he was 14, he won the adult 1996 US Open Bouldering Nationals. A year later, at age 15, he climbed Necessary Evil 5.14c (8c+). This was the hardest sport climb in North America at that time.

The next year, Sharma won a silver medal at the 1997 UIAA Climbing World Championships in Paris. He also won a gold medal at the Kranj event of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. Both were for lead climbing. When he was 16, he hurt his knee badly and couldn't climb for over a year. At 18, Sharma moved to Bishop, California. He started a new trend in bouldering with his 1999 film Rampage. In February 2000, he made the first climb of The Mandala. This is a very famous boulder problem around the world.

On 18 July 2001, when he was 19, Sharma finished climbing an extension of the 8c+ (5.14c) route Biographie. This was in Ceüse in France. He named it Realization. This route was the first confirmed 9a+ (5.15a) in the world. Climbing magazine said that "technical rock climbing jumped in its evolution" because of this climb. It was the first time climbing grades had gone up since Wolfgang Gullich climbed Action Directe 9a (5.14d) ten years earlier. Sharma's climb was shown in the 2002 film, Dosage Volume 1.

Finding "King Lines" (2002–2008)

After climbing Realization, Sharma thought about quitting climbing. He went on trips to learn about Buddhism. In 2003, he visited Mallorca, Spain. There he met Miquel Riera, who was a pioneer of deep-water soloing. This trip made him "fall in love with climbing all over again." Sharma stopped competing much. He wanted to focus on "King Lines." This was a term he used for special routes that really inspired him.

In 2004, Sharma solved the boulder problem Practice of the Wild V15 (8C). In 2005, he solved the amazing roof climb Witness the Fitness V15 (8C). Then he climbed Dreamcatcher 9a (5.14d). This is one of North America's most famous sport climbs. In 2006, he repeated La Rambla 9a+ (5.15a). Also in 2006, after 50 tries, he completed the hardest part of Es Pontàs in Mallorca. This was the world's first-ever 5.15a (9a+) DWS route. Some of Sharma's climbs from this time are in the popular 2007 climbing film, King Lines.

In 2007, Sharma moved to Lleida, a town near the Spanish Pyrenees in Catalonia, Spain. Over the next five years, he created many new, very hard sport climbs. These were mostly in limestone areas in Catalonia. He started with the 9a+ (5.15a) route Papichulo in May 2008. In September 2008, Sharma went back to the United States. He climbed the world's first-ever 5.15b (9b) route. This was Jumbo Love in Clark Mountain, California.

Pushing Limits with La Dura Dura (2008–2013)

Sharma said that after climbing Jumbo Love, he needed to try a new way of climbing. Before, he had climbed routes that other climbers had started but given up on. Now, he wanted to find his own hardest limits. He said, "I wanted to push myself to the next level. Where is that? I had to discover it." So, he set up many new routes in Spain. Many of these routes turned out to be at the next level of difficulty. During this time, Sharma set up and climbed many new, extremely hard 9b (5.15b)-graded "King Lines." These included Golpe de Estado [fr] (2008), Neanderthal (2009), and First Round First Minute (2011). Each of these was a huge project. Sharma said, "That's the thing about being on the cutting edge. You have to invent it."

In 2011, Sharma invited Adam Ondra, a young climbing star, to try a route he had set up in Oliana in 2009. This route was called La Dura Dura. Sharma himself had given up on it, saying, "I never saw myself being able to climb it." He thought it would be for the next generation of climbers. For the next year, the two climbers worked on the route together. Ondra made the first climb in February 2013. Sharma then made the first repeat in March 2013.

National Geographic called their teamwork a very important moment in rock climbing. It showed how the title of "world's best climber" was starting to pass from one generation to the next. Both Ondra and Sharma said that working together was a very good experience. Sharma said after his climb, "It was a healthy process for both of us. We helped each other stay motivated. Because of him, I think I became a better climber myself." Their work together was shown in Reel Rock 7 (2012) and La Dura Complete (2013).

Later Climbs (After 2013)

At 9b+ (5.15c), La Dura Dura was the "world's hardest climb" for a while. It held this title until Ondra climbed Silence at 9c (5.15d) in 2017. Even though Sharma climbed several more "King Lines" over the next five years, La Dura Dura was his hardest route. In 2015, he climbed El Bon Combat. At the time, people thought it was close to 9b+ (5.15c). In 2016, he soloed Alesha. This was the world's first 9b (5.15b) DWS route. One of Sharma's projects that he hasn't finished yet is a possible 9c (5.15d) route in Oliana. It's next to La Dura Dura and is called Le Blond.

In March 2023, at age 41, Sharma made the first climb of Sleeping Lion. This is a 9b+ (5.15c) route next to La Rambla in Spain. He said it was the hardest thing he had done in over eight years.

Chris Sharma's Impact on Climbing

Chris Sharma is widely seen as one of the most important rock climbers ever. He took over the title of "world's strongest sport climber" in 2001 from Wolfgang Gullich. Then, he passed it on to Adam Ondra after 2012. In 2003, the LA Times called him the "greatest natural rock climber in the world." In 2007, Melissa Block on NPR's All Things Considered introduced him as "the world's best rock climber." She said he was a pioneer who had mastered some of the most amazing and difficult routes in the sport's history.

In 2016, Outside magazine said, "Sharma shaped modern rock climbing. Whatever he thought was cool, we followed. Bouldering. Working on hard sport routes. Deep water soloing." In 2022, Climbing magazine said, "The pioneering American sport climber is among the best to ever tie in. He was probably the world's strongest rock climber for almost 20 years."

Sharma is known for being "humble" and "softly-spoken." He often lets others decide the grades of his routes. But he also has a "highly aggressive and dynamic" climbing style. In 2016, Climbing magazine said, "Sharma has seemed like a relaxed Southern California person. But actually, he's one of the most competitive, focused, and driven athletes out there." His calm manner has been linked to his Buddhist upbringing. The LA Times called him "the Karma Climber." He has said that Zen meditation techniques helped him on routes. They also helped him find direction and motivation. Sharma was also known for not doing gym training, like using fingerboards. He preferred to just climb as his only way to train.

Sharma is also given credit for making extreme sport climbing popular and financially successful. Climbing magazine said, "Not only did Sharma have the strength to become the first human to climb 5.15, he had the smarts to see the potential. He also had the dedication to spend months and years of his life proving it." They called Sharma "probably the highest-paid pro climber in the world." Outside magazine added, "Before Sharma figured out how to balance being a top climber with making a living, 'professional climber' was a strange idea." Sharma's popularity and being filmed a lot came from his focus on "King Lines." Sharma described these as: "It's not enough to do something hard; it needs to be in an amazing position. It needs to be a route that asks you to put your whole heart and soul into climbing it."

Chris Sharma's Personal Life

Sharma is the founder of the rock climbing gym Sender One. This gym is in Santa Ana, California. He opened it in 2013 with a business partner, Walltopia. Walltopia was also a sponsor for Sharma. In 2015, he opened a second gym, Sharma Climbing BCN, in Barcelona in Spain. In 2021, he opened a third gym, Sharma Climbing Gava, near Barcelona.

Sharma was in a long-term relationship with Spanish professional climber Daila Ojeda [fr]. They lived together in Oliana. In August 2015, he married Jimena Alarcón, a model and TV person from Venezuela. The couple moved from Oliana to Barcelona. Their first child, a daughter named Alana, was born in June 2016. Their second child, a son, was born in 2019.

Zen and Climbing

Sharma's parents practiced Zen Buddhism. For long periods, Sharma followed Zen routines. This included daily 5:45 am temple meditation. Sharma has gone on several trips to Asia that lasted for months. One was the Shikoku Pilgrimage in Japan. He took this trip after climbing Realization in 2001.

The 2010 book Climbing: Because It's There (Philosophy for Everyone) talked about how Zen Buddhism affected Sharma. It said, "Sharma's interest in Buddhism, especially Zen, is well known in films and books. He shows the spirit of Zen by being humble, ordinary, self-aware, and most of all, real."

However, Sharma has said he doesn't want to be called a "spiritual climber." In 2011, he said, "Being put into that group definitely takes away from me personally. I'm happy talking about this stuff. I just don’t want to create an image for myself like I’m some kind of saint. I get frustrated, and I get sad." Sharma is no longer a practicing Zen Buddhist. In 2022, he said, "Climbing is fully engaging… it’s an easy way to reach that [meditative] state of mind… easier than sitting down and meditating."

Chris Sharma's Amazing Climbs

Hardest Climbs (Redpointed Routes)

9b+ (5.15c):

La Dura Dura – Oliana (ESP) – 23 March 2013. Sharma set up and bolted this route. He made the first repeat after Adam Ondra's first climb in February 2013.
Sleeping Lion – Siurana (ESP) – 28 March 2023. This was the first climb of a route Sharma set up.

9b/+ (5.15b/c):

El Bon Combat – Cova de l'Ocell (ESP) – 7 March 2015. This was the first climb. Sharma called it a "King Line." It is now thought to be closer to 5.15b, but it's a classic climb.

9b (5.15b):

Jumbo Love – Clark Mountain (USA) – 11 September 2008. This was the first climb and the world's first-ever 9b (5.15b) route.
Golpe de Estado [fr] – Siurana (ESP) – 17 December 2008. This was the first climb. It was the first 9b (5.15b) to be repeated when Adam Ondra climbed it in March 2010.
Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – 18 December 2009. This was the first climb.
First Round First Minute – Margalef (ESP) – 19 April 2011. This was the first climb.
Fight or Flight – Oliana (ESP) – 5 May 2011. This was the first climb.
Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – 6 February 2013. This was the first climb.

9a+ (5.15a):

Realization – Céüse (FRA) – 18 July 2001. This was the first climb and the world's first-ever confirmed 9a+ (5.15a) route. It is shown in Dosage Volume 1.
Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – 31 May 2008. This was the first climb. It has become one of the most repeated and popular 9a+ routes.
Demencia Senil – Margalef (ESP) – 20 February 2009. This was the first climb.
Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – 29 May 2009. This was the first climb.
First Ley – Margalef (ESP) – 28 February 2010. This was the first climb. It's a shorter 15m route.
Power Inverter – Oliana (ESP) – December, 2010. This was the first climb.
Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – 14 January 2011. This was the first climb.
La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – 1 December 2006. This was the third time this route was climbed. Sharma became the first climber to have climbed multiple confirmed 5.15a (9a+) routes.

9a (5.14d):

Dreamcatcher – Squamish, British Columbia (CDN) – September, 2005. This was the first climb. It was set up with Sonnie Trotter. It is now seen as one of the most famous climbs in North America.
Three Degrees of Separation – Céüse (FRA) – July, 2007. This was the first climb. It is to the right of Realization and uses 3 big dynos (jumping moves).
Era Vella – Margalef (ESP) – March, 2010. This was the first climb. Sharma did it as a warm-up and called it an "easy 9a." It became a popular "first 9a" for many climbers.
Samfaina – Margalef (ESP) – June, 2010. This was the first climb. Sharma thought it was 9a.

8c+ (5.14c):

Necessary Evil – Virgin River Gorge (USA) – 1997. This was the first climb. Sharma, at age 15, climbed Boone Speed's project. It became North America's hardest route at that time.

Onsight Climbs (First Try)

8c (5.14b):

French Gangster – Yangshuo (CHN) – April, 2009. This was the hardest route in China at the time.
Humildes Pa' Casa – Oliana (ESP) – December, 2008.
Divine Fury – Maple Canyon (USA) – September, 2008.
T-Rex – Maple Canyon (USA) – September, 2008.
S**** Movies – Sant Llorenç del Munt (ESP) – May, 2015.
V for Vendatta – Siurana (ESP) – 1 April 2022. Sharma was almost 41. This was his sixth time climbing an 8c route on his first try.

Deep-Water Solo Routes

Es Pontàs, Mallorca. Sharma's route climbs the roof of the sea arch finishing at its apex.