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Adam Ondra
20180227-LS-0055 by Lukasz Sokol.jpg
Ondra in 2018
Personal information
Born (1993-02-05) February 5, 1993 (age 32)
Brno, Czech Republic
Education Masaryk University
Occupation Professional Rock Climber
Height 186 cm
Weight 70 kg
Spouse(s) Iva Ondra
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
  • Redpoint: 9c (5.15d)
  • On-sight: 9a+ (5.15a) (as flash)
  • Bouldering: 9A (V17)
Known for
  • First to climb consensus sport 9b+ (5.15c) and 9c (5.15d)
  • First to flash consensus sport 9a+ (5.15a)
  • First to win the World Championship in bouldering and lead climbing in single year
  • First to win the World Cup in bouldering and lead climbing
First ascents
  • Silence (9c, 2017)
  • La Dura Dura (9b+, 2013)
  • Change (9b/9b+, 2012)
  • Terranova (V16, 2011)
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Czech Republic
World Championships
Gold 2011 Arco Overall
Gold 2014 Gijón Lead
Gold 2014 Munich Bouldering
Gold 2016 Paris Lead
Gold 2019 Hachiōji Lead
Silver 2009 Xining Lead
Silver 2011 Arco Bouldering
Silver 2016 Paris Bouldering
Silver 2018 Innsbruck Lead
Silver 2018 Innsbruck Combined
Bronze 2011 Arco Lead
Bronze 2012 Paris Lead
World Cup
Gold 2009 Lead
Gold 2009 Combined
Gold 2010 Bouldering
Gold 2010 Combined
Gold 2015 Lead
Gold 2015 Combined
Gold 2019 Lead
Silver 2019 Bouldering
European Championships
Gold 2019 Edinburgh Lead
Gold 2022 Munich Lead
Silver 2010 Imst/Innsbruck Lead
Silver 2010 Imst/Innsbruck Bouldering
Silver 2015 Chamonix Lead
Silver 2015 Innsbruck Bouldering
Silver 2017 Campitello di Fassa Lead
Silver 2022 Munich Combined
Bronze 2022 Munich Bouldering
Updated on April 19, 2021.

Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic. He is known for his amazing skills in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. Many people think Adam is one of the best climbers of his time.

When he was 13, Adam climbed his first very hard sport route, called a 9a (5.14d). By 2011, he was climbing very difficult routes on his first try, which is called "onsighting." By 2013, he had climbed almost every hard route in the world. By the end of 2018, Adam had climbed 1,550 sport routes that were graded 8a (5.13b) or harder. This included one route graded 9c (5.15d), three routes graded 9b+ (5.15c), and three routes he onsighted at 9a (5.14d).

Adam was the first climber to successfully complete a route with a proposed grade of 9c (5.15d). This route was called Silence and he climbed it in 2017. He was also the first to climb a 9b+ (5.15c) route, named Change, in 2012. In 2018, he was the first to "flash" a 9a+ (5.15a) route, meaning he climbed it on his first try after getting some tips. This route was Supercrackinette. He was also the second person ever to onsight a 9a (5.14d) route, Cabane au Canada, in 2013.

Even though he is famous for sport climbing, Adam has also climbed very tough "big wall" routes, traditional climbs, and boulder problems. Because of his many achievements, Adam Ondra is often called the strongest climber in the world.

Adam's Climbing Journey

Starting Young

Adam Ondra Imst 2009
Ondra in 2009 at Imst

Adam Ondra started climbing when he was just six years old. His parents were climbers, and they shared their love for the sport with him. In 1999, at age six, Adam climbed a 6a (5.10a) route in Croatia. He quickly became well-known in the climbing world. His achievements grew more impressive as he got older:

  • At age eight (2001), he onsighted (climbed on the first try) 7b+ (5.12c) routes.
  • At age nine (2002), he onsighted 7c+ (5.13a) and redpointed (climbed after practice) an 8a (5.13b).
  • At age ten (2003), he onsighted an 8a (5.13b).
  • At age eleven (2004), he onsighted an 8a+ (5.13c) and redpointed an 8c (5.14b).
  • At age twelve (2005), he onsighted an 8b (5.13d).
  • At age thirteen (2006), he redpointed his first 9a (5.14d) route, Martin Krpan, in Slovenia.

Competing in Climbing

Adam Ondra Imst
Adam Ondra at the IFSC Lead Worldcup Imst 2009
Boulder Worldcup Vienna 29-05-2010a semifinals068 Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra at the IFSC Boulder Worldcup Vienna 2010

In 2007 and 2008, Adam won the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships for young climbers. In 2009, when he was sixteen, Adam competed in his first Lead Climbing World Cup. He finished first, beating strong climbers from Spain and Japan. In 2010, he won the Bouldering World Cup. This made him the first climber ever to win the World Cup in both lead climbing and bouldering.

Adam competed in the 2020 Summer Olympics (held in 2021). He finished in sixth place in the combined event. He also competed in the 2024 Summer Olympics and again finished in sixth place in the Boulder and Lead Combined event.

In April 2021, Adam won a gold medal in bouldering at the IFSC World Cup in Switzerland. This was his 20th gold medal in a World Cup event.

Climbing on Real Rocks

Adam Ondra climbing Silence, 9c by PAVEL BLAZEK 1-cropped
Ondra climbing Silence, 9c (5.15d), in 2017

In March 2011, Adam became the second person ever to onsight a 8c+ (5.14c) route in Spain. On October 4, 2012, Adam redpointed Change in Norway. This was the first route in the world to be given a grade of 9b+ (5.15c).

On February 7, 2013, Adam climbed La Dura Dura in Spain. This was his second 9b+ (5.15c) route. He worked on this climb with American climber Chris Sharma, and it took Adam nine weeks to complete. Just two days later, Adam made the second ascent of Fight or flight, a 9b (5.15b) route. On July 9, 2013, Adam onsighted Cabane au Canada in Switzerland. This was only the second time in history that a 9a (5.14d) route had been onsighted.

On November 21, 2016, Adam completed the second free ascent of The Dawn Wall. This is a huge 1,000-meter granite route on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. It is known as one of the hardest big wall climbs in the world. Adam led every section of the climb and finished it in 8 days. The first climbers to do it took 19 days.

On September 3, 2017, after about four years of hard work, Adam climbed Silence in Norway. Silence was the first route in the world to be given a proposed grade of 9c (5.15d). On February 10, 2018, Adam made the world's first "flash" of a confirmed 9a+ (5.15a) route. This was Super Crackinette in France.

Hardest Climbs and Achievements

Single-Pitch Routes

Adam Ondra has climbed a huge number of routes graded 8a (5.13b) or harder. From August 2002 to November 2018, he climbed 1,555 such routes. One of these was a 9c (5.15d), and 725 were onsighted. This includes four onsights at 9a (5.14d) and one flash at 9a+ (5.15a).

Number of ascended routes
Grade Redpoint Flash On-sight Total
9c (5.15d) 1 1
9b+ (5.15c) 4 4
9b (5.15b) 20 20
9a+ (5.15a) 39 1 40
9a (5.14d) 101 2 4 107
8c+ (5.14c) 124 1 21 146
8c (5.14b) 110 1 61 172
8b+ (5.14a) 96 4 85 185
8b (5.13d) 108 19 143 270
8a+ (5.13c) 82 17 207 306
8a (5.13b) 65 35 205 305
Total 750 80 725 1555

Top Redpoint Climbs

  • 9c (5.15d):
    • Silence (Norway) - September 3, 2017 - This was the first time anyone climbed a 9c (5.15d) route.
  • 9b+ (5.15c):
    • Zvěřinec (Menagerie) (Czech Republic) - November 20, 2022 - Adam said this was his hardest 9b+ climb.
    • Vasil Vasil (Czech Republic) - December 4, 2013 - First ascent.
    • La Dura Dura (Spain) - February 7, 2013 - First ascent.
    • Change (Norway) - October 4, 2012 - This was the first 9b+ (5.15c) route ever climbed.
  • 9b (5.15b):
    • Wonderland (Italy) - March 2022 - First ascent, one of the hardest routes in Italy.
    • Bomba (Italy) - March 2022 - First ascent.
    • The Lonely Mountain (Italy) - December 2021 - Second ascent.
    • Taurus (Czech Republic) - December 2021 - First ascent.
    • Erebor (Italy) - November 2021.
    • Neanderthal (Spain) - February 12, 2019.
    • Disbelief (Canada) - July 20, 2018 - First ascent.
    • Eagle-4 (France) - February 13, 2018 - First ascent.
    • One Slap (Italy) - November 13, 2017 - First ascent.
    • Move Hard (Norway) - July 10, 2017 - First ascent.
    • Lapsus (Italy) - April 20, 2017 - Second ascent.
    • Queen Line (Italy) - April 19, 2017 - First ascent.
    • Mamichula (Spain) - February 8, 2017 - First ascent.
    • Robin Ud (Slovakia) - October 5, 2016 - First ascent.
    • Stoking the Fire (Spain) - February 19, 2016 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route.
    • C.R.S. (France) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent.
    • First Round First Minute (Spain) - February 3, 2014 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route.
    • Move (Norway) - August 20, 2013 - First ascent.
    • Iron Curtain (Norway) - August 3, 2013 - First ascent.
    • Fight or flight (Spain) - February 9, 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2011).
    • La planta de Shiva (Spain) - April 22, 2011 - First ascent.
    • Chilam Balam (Spain) - April 13, 2011 - Second ascent.
    • Chaxi Raxi (Spain) - March 27, 2011 - First ascent.
    • La Capella (Spain) - February 16, 2011 - First ascent.
    • Golpe de Estado (Spain) - March 13, 2010 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008).

Top On-sight Climbs

Monkey Face - Smith Rock, Oregon
The east face of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, Oregon. Adam onsighted Just do it (8c+) here in 2018.
  • 9a (5.14d):
    • Water World (Slovenia) - November 2022.
    • TCT (Italy) - July 11, 2014.
    • Il Domani (Spain) - May 3, 2014.
    • Cabane au Canada (Switzerland) - July 9, 2013 - This was only the second time a 9a route was onsighted.
  • 8c+ (5.14c):
    • Blut und Honig (Austria) - September 30, 2019.
    • Just Do It (USA) - November 12, 2018.
    • C'est la vie (Slovakia) - October 5, 2016.
    • Super Plafond (France) - July 6, 2014.
    • Chambao (Spain) - May 7, 2013.
    • Pure Imagination (USA) - November 1, 2012.
    • Golden Ticket (USA) - November 1, 2012.
    • Muy Verdes (Norway) - July 11, 2012.
    • Eye of Odin (Norway) - July 8, 2012.
    • Deltaplane Man Direct (France) - May 31, 2012.
    • Bella Regis (Italy) - April 7, 2012.
    • L'Avaro (Italy) - July 13, 2011.
    • La Rubia (Spain) - April 13, 2011.
    • Blanquita (Spain) - March 27, 2011.
    • Mind Control (Spain) - March 20, 2011.
    • Powerade (Spain) - March 9, 2011.
    • Bizi Euskaraz (Spain) - March 7, 2011.
    • Kidetasunaren balio erantsia (Spain) - March 6, 2011 - This was the second time an 8c+ route was onsighted.

Boulder Problems

Adam Ondra has also climbed many difficult boulder problems. He won the bouldering competition Melloblocco four times (2008, 2009, 2010, and 2011).

He has climbed 293 boulder problems graded 8A (V11) or harder. This includes:

  • 1 problem at 9A (V17)
  • 4 problems at 8C+ (V16)
  • 10 problems at 8C (V15)
  • 31 problems at 8B+ (V14)
  • 57 problems at 8B (V13)
  • 76 problems at 8A+ (V12)
  • 115 problems at 8A (V11)

Top Boulder Problems

  • 9A (V17):
    • Soudain Seul (France) - February 8, 2025.
  • 8C+ (V16):
    • Brutal Rider (Czech Republic) - May 25, 2020 - First ascent.
    • Ledoborec (Czech Republic) - May 24, 2020 - First ascent.
    • Gioia (Italy) - December 6, 2011 - Second ascent.
    • Terranova (Czech Republic) - November 10, 2011 - First ascent.
  • 8C/8C+ :
    • Vrtule (Czech Republic) - October 13, 2017 - First ascent.
  • 8C (V15):
    • Nunavut (Czech Republic) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent.
    • Pučmeloun (Czech Republic) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent.
    • Ghost Rider (Czech Republic) - September 24, 2019 - Second ascent.
    • Cháron (Czech Republic) - October 15, 2011 - First ascent.
    • Practice of the Wild (Switzerland) - October 1, 2011.
    • Pata ledovce (Czech Republic) - September 6, 2011 - First ascent.
    • Monkey Wedding (South Africa) - August 14, 2011 - Third ascent.
    • From The Dirt Grows the Flowers (Switzerland) - November 30, 2010.
    • Big Paw (Switzerland) - November 29, 2010 - Third ascent.

Multi-Pitch Routes

East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar
Karambony East Face - Tough Enough route runs in the middle
  • The Dawn Wall - El Capitan (USA) - This route is 915 meters tall with 32 sections, some graded 9a (5.14d). It is known as the hardest big wall climb in the world.
    • January 14, 2015 - First climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days.
    • November 21, 2016 - Adam Ondra climbed it in 8 days.
  • Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo (Madagascar) - October 10, 2010 - First free ascent.
  • Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (Madagascar) - October 7, 2010.
  • Tough Enough Original - Karambony (Madagascar) - October 4, 2010 - First free ascent.
  • Tough Enough - Karambony (Madagascar) - September 30, 2010 - First free ascent.
  • Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (Italy) - October 18, 2008 - First onsight ascent.
  • Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée (Aiglun, France) - 2008 - Second ascent.
  • WoGü - Rätikon (Switzerland) - July 26, 2008 - First free ascent.
  • Zub za zub - Rätikon (Switzerland) - July 29, 2007 - First free ascent.
  • Silbergeier - Rätikon (Switzerland) - July 27, 2007.

Films and Books About Adam

Filmography

  • The Fanatic Search - 2009.
  • Progression - 2009.
  • The Wizard's Apprentice - 2012.
  • Reel Rock Tour 7 - 2012.
  • La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb in the World - 2014.
  • Change - 2014.
  • Silence—The Story of Adam Ondra and the World's First 5.15d - 2018.
  • Adam also has his own video series on YouTube called Road to Tokyo, which showed his journey to the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Books

  • JAROŠ, Martin; ONDRA, Adam. Adam Ondra: lezec tělem i duší. Albatros, 2019.
  • ONDRA, Adam; GIMENEZ, Bernardo; BÍBA, Lukáš. Adam Ondra Book. AO Production, 2019.

Awards and Recognition

  • 2009 Golden Piton Award [fr]
  • 2008 Salewa Rock Award
  • 2010 Salewa Rock Award
  • 2011 Salewa Rock Award
  • 2013 Salewa Rock Award

Images for kids

See also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Adam Ondra para niños

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