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Marcus Schmuck
Personal information
Born (1925-04-18)18 April 1925
Died 21 August 2005(2005-08-21) (aged 80)
Salzburg, Austria
Nationality Austrian

Marcus Schmuck (born April 18, 1925 – died August 21, 2005) was a famous Austrian mountaineer. A mountaineer is someone who climbs mountains, especially very tall and difficult ones. Marcus Schmuck was known for exploring and climbing some of the world's highest peaks.

In 1957, he helped organize an important trip to climb Broad Peak. This mountain is 8,047 meters (about 26,400 feet) tall and is the 12th highest mountain in the world. It is located in the Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. Marcus Schmuck led this expedition along with Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller, and Kurt Diemberger.

After this big climb, Marcus Schmuck continued his adventures. He organized and led 74 more trips to high mountains around the world. He was a true explorer of the peaks!

Marcus Schmuck's Amazing Climbs

Marcus Schmuck achieved many first ascents during his climbing career. A "first ascent" means being the first person to successfully climb a mountain or a specific route on a mountain. This is a very special achievement in mountaineering.

Conquering Broad Peak

One of his most famous climbs was the first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957. The team reached the top on June 9. This was a huge success because Broad Peak is one of the world's "eight-thousanders" – mountains over 8,000 meters high. Climbing such a mountain is extremely challenging and dangerous.

Just ten days later, on June 19, 1957, Marcus Schmuck also made the first ascent of Skil Brum. This mountain is 7,420 meters (about 24,344 feet) tall. It shows how skilled and determined he was to climb two major peaks so close together.

He also made many other important first ascents on smaller, but still very difficult, mountains. These climbs helped him become a respected figure in the world of mountaineering.

His Book

Marcus Schmuck also shared his experiences by writing a book. It is called Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl. The book was published in 1958 in German. It tells the story of his adventures, especially the famous Broad Peak expedition with Hermann Buhl.

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