Kurt Diemberger facts for kids
![]() Kurt Diemberger in 2005
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Personal information | |
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Nationality | Austrian |
Born | Villach, Austria |
16 March 1932
Occupation | Mountaineer, writer |
Climbing career | |
Known for | The second person after H. Buhl to make first ascents on two eight-thousanders |
First ascents |
Kurt Diemberger, born on March 16, 1932, is a famous Austrian mountaineer and writer. He is known for being the only living person to have climbed two mountains over 8,000 meters for the very first time. These incredible climbs were Broad Peak in 1957 and Dhaulagiri in 1960. In 2013, he received a special award called the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award for his amazing career.
Contents
Kurt Diemberger's Climbing Adventures
Kurt Diemberger went to university in Vienna, Austria. He earned two degrees there. He is one of only two climbers who have successfully made the first climbs of two different mountains taller than 8,000 meters. These huge mountains are often called "Eight-thousanders."
In 1957, Kurt was on an expedition with another famous climber, Hermann Buhl. They were trying to climb a mountain called Chogolisa. Sadly, Hermann Buhl fell through a snow ledge and was lost. Kurt Diemberger was the last person to see him. Because this climb was not officially allowed, Kurt was not allowed to enter Pakistan for a long time afterward.
The K2 Challenge in 1986
Kurt Diemberger faced one of his biggest challenges during the 1986 K2 Disaster. K2 is the second-highest mountain in the world and is very dangerous. On August 4, 1986, Kurt and another climber named Julie Tullis reached the top of K2. It was very late in the day when they started their climb down.
Soon after starting their descent, Julie fell, and Kurt was pulled down with her. Luckily, they managed to stop themselves from falling off the mountain. They had to spend the night above 8,000 meters, which is extremely high and cold. The next day, they made it to Camp IV. Their own tent had been destroyed by very strong winds, so they had to share two tents with six other climbers.
Sadly, Julie Tullis passed away that night. Only one other climber, Willi Bauer from Austria, survived the descent with Kurt. Both Kurt and Willi suffered severe frostbite on their hands and feet. They needed operations to remove parts of their frozen limbs.
Awards and Continued Work
In 2013, Kurt Diemberger was honored with the 5th Piolet d'Or "Lifetime Achievement Award." This award celebrates climbers who have had a long and impactful career.
Even today, Kurt Diemberger is still involved in the world of mountaineering. He works on film projects with his daughter, Hildegard, sharing his incredible experiences with new generations.
Books Written by Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger has written several books about his adventures and experiences in the mountains. These books share his stories and insights from his challenging climbs.
- The Endless Knot : K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny, 1991.
- Summits and secrets, 1991.
- Spirits of the Air, 1994.
- K2 : Challenging the Sky, 1997.
- The Kurt Diemberger Omnibus, 1999.
- K2. Traum und Schicksal, 2001 (This book is in German).
See also
In Spanish: Kurt Diemberger para niños
- Eight-thousander
- List of Austrian mountain climbers