Piolets d'Or facts for kids

Kids Encyclopedia Facts

Quick facts for kids Les Piolets d'Or
2017 winners Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov with their "Golden Ice Axe"
Presented by	Groupe de Haute Montagne [fr]
Date	Spring (1992 to 2017) Autumn (2018 onward)
Location	France (1992 to 2007) France/Italy (2009 to 2017) Various (2018 onward)
Reward	A single Golden ice axe (per team), made by Grivel
First awarded	1992 (1992) (for ascents in 1991)

The Piolets d'Or (pronounced "pee-oh-lay dor," meaning "Golden Ice Axe") is a special yearly award for mountaineering and alpine climbing. It's organized by a group called the Groupe de Haute Montagne [fr] (GHM). This award started in 1992.

Golden ice axes are given to climbers who achieved amazing things in the mountains the year before. Many people call it the "Oscars of mountaineering" because it's considered the highest honor in the climbing world.

Over time, the Piolets d'Or changed from being like a competition with just one winner to a bigger celebration of mountaineering. Now, several awards are given out. After some problems in 2008, the rules were updated. The new rules focus on how climbers achieve their goals, making sure they respect the mountains and the environment. They also made the award process more open and fair. The name also changed to the plural, "Les Piolets d'Or," meaning "The Golden Ice Axes."

History of the Golden Ice Axe Award
How Climbs are Judged: The Criteria
Recent Golden Ice Axe Winners
See also

History of the Golden Ice Axe Award

In the early 1990s, it was hard to find money for big climbing trips in France. A climber named Jean-Claude Marmier, who led the Groupe de Haute Montagne [fr] (GHM), thought of an idea. He suggested creating a yearly award for "amazing achievements in alpinism." He hoped this would make French mountaineering more famous and help get sponsors.

He got help from Guy Chaumereuil, an editor at Montagnes magazine. In 1992, GHM and Montagnes announced the first Piolet d'Or award. It was for the best alpine climb of 1991.

Early Challenges and Changes

From the very beginning, some people worried about giving awards for dangerous climbs. After a controversial award in 1998, where two climbers from the winning Russian team died on their route, the rules changed. From then on, climbers had to finish their climbs safely to be nominated.

There was also a concern about picking just one winner from many amazing climbs. This became a big issue in 2007. Some people felt the choices were unfair, and the head of the jury even resigned. Another winner, Marko Prezelj, publicly criticized the idea of having a single winner for such a complex sport.

A New Beginning in 2009

The problems in 2007 led to a major change. The 2008 awards were even canceled while new rules were being made. In 2009, the Piolet d'Or came back with a new plan. Now, multiple winners are announced, and a "Lifetime Achievement Award" was created to honor climbers for their whole careers. The first female winner was also announced.

The new rules emphasize that the event is "not a competition, but a celebration." This means it's about sharing amazing climbing stories, not just picking the "best" one. In 2018, the awards ceremony was held outside France for the first time, in Poland.

Climbers with Multiple Awards

Some climbers have won the Piolet d'Or more than once. Here are a few:

5 times: Paul Ramsden (2003, 2013, 2016, 2017, 2023).
4 times: Marko Prezelj (1992, 2007, 2015, 2016).
3 times: Mick Fowler (2003, 2013, 2016), Kazuya Hiraide (2009, 2018, 2020).
2 times: Valery Babanov [fr] (2002, 2004), Aleš Česen (2015, 2019), Dmitry Golovchenko (2013, 2017), Zdenek Hák [cs] (2018, 2020), Marek Holeček (2018, 2020), Kenro Nakajima [ja] (2018, 2020), Sergey Nilov (2013, 2017), Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll [fr] (2011, 2022), Mark Richey (2012, 2020), Ueli Steck (2009, 2014), Luka Stražar [sl] (2012, 2019), Steve Swenson (2012, 2020), Hayden Kennedy (2013, 2016).

How Climbs are Judged: The Criteria

After 2008, a new set of rules, called the Charter, was created. It explains what makes a climb worthy of a Piolet d'Or. It focuses on the style of climbing, not just reaching the top.

In modern mountaineering, questions of style and means of ascent take precedence over reaching the objective itself. It is no longer a matter of employing huge financial and technical resources (bottled oxygen, fixed ropes, high-altitude porters, so-called 'performance-enhancing' substances…) and large numbers of people to reach the top at all costs. The Piolets d’Or throw the spotlight on imaginative and innovative new routes, using a minimum amount of equipment, and building on experience.

This means climbers should use less equipment and fewer people. The award highlights new and creative ways to climb.

Here are the main things the judges look for:

Climbing Style: How the climb was done.
Spirit of Exploration: Was it a new route or a mountain that hadn't been climbed before? Was the approach creative?
Commitment and Self-Sufficiency: How much did the climbers rely on themselves?
Technical Skill: Did the climb require a high level of climbing ability?
Safety: Was the route chosen wisely, considering dangers?
Resource Use: Did they use resources efficiently and sparingly?
Respect for Others: Did they treat climbing partners, other teams, and local people well?
Respect for the Environment: Did they protect the natural surroundings?
Respect for Future Climbers: Did they leave the mountain in a way that others can enjoy similar adventures?

The new Charter emphasizes that the awards are a "celebration of mountaineering," not a "climbing competition." The goal is to share amazing climbing experiences with everyone.

Recent Golden Ice Axe Winners

2023 Awards

The winners for 2023 were announced in October 2023.

George Lowe received the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts for their climb on Jirishanca in Peru.
Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden (winning his 5th Piolet!) for their climb on the Jugal Spire in Nepal.
Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucède, and Jérôme Sullivan for their climb on Pumari Chhish East.
A "Special Mention" went to Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, and Nadia Royo for their climb in East Greenland. They were noted for their "minimal carbon footprint" expedition, using sailing boats.

2022 Awards

The 2022 winners were announced in October 2022.

Silvo Karo [sl] won the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili, and Giorgi Tepnadze for their climb on Saraghrar in Pakistan.
Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll [fr] (winning his 2nd Piolet!) for his "Moonwalk Traverse" of the Cerro Chaltén Group in Patagonia.
A "Special Jury Award" went to Mykyta Balabanov, Mykhailo Fomin, and Viacheslav Polezhaiko for their climb on Annapurna III in Nepal.

2021 Awards

The 2021 winners were announced in October 2021.

Yasushi Yamanoi [fr] received the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their climb on Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.
Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their climb on Sani Pakkush in Pakistan.
A "Special Mention" went to Silvia Vidal for her amazing solo climbs on big walls around the world.

2020 Awards

The 2020 winners were announced in August 2020.

Catherine Destivelle won the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Marek Holeček (2nd Piolet) and Zdeněk Hák (2nd Piolet) for their climb on Chamlang in Nepal.
Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva for their climb on Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal.
Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima [ja] (2nd Piolet) for their climb on Rakaposhi in Pakistan.
Mark Richey (2nd Piolet), Steve Swenson (2nd Piolet), Chris Wright, and Graham Zimmerman for their climb on Link Sar in Pakistan.

2019 Awards (Sad News)

The 2019 winners were announced in July 2019. The awards were held in Poland. Sadly, two of the three winners, David Lama and Hansjörg Auer, had recently passed away.

Krzysztof Wielicki received the Lifetime Achievement Award.
The award for David Lama's solo climb on Lunag Ri was accepted by his family.
The award for Hansjörg Auer's solo climb on Lupghar Sar West was accepted by his friends.
Aleš Česen (2nd Piolet), Luka Stražar (2nd Piolet), and Tom Livingstone for their climb on Latok I in Pakistan.

2018 Awards (Leaving France)

The 2018 winners were announced in August 2018. For the first time, the ceremony was held in Poland, not France.

Andrej Štremfelj won the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák for their climb on Gasherbrum I in Pakistan.
Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima [ja] for their climb on Shispare in Pakistan.
Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet, and Hélias Millerioux [fr] for their climb on Nuptse Nup II in Nepal.
A "Special mention" went to Chantel Astorga, Anne Gilbert Chase, and Jason Thompson for their climb on Nilkantha in India.
Another "Special mention" was given to Alex Honnold for his amazing climbing achievements in 2017.