Cerro Torre facts for kids
Quick facts for kids Cerro Torre |
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Cerro Torre in 1987
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| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 3,128 m (10,262 ft) |
| Prominence | 1,227 m (4,026 ft) |
| Geography | |
 Cerro Torre
Location in Southern Patagonia
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| Location | Patagonia, Argentina, Chile |
| Country | Argentina Chile |
| Parent range | Andes |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 1974 by Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari and Pino Negri (Italy) |
| Easiest route | rock/snow/ice |
Cerro Torre is a very famous and challenging mountain in South America. It is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. You can find it in both Argentina and Chile, not far from another well-known peak called Fitz Roy.
Cerro Torre is the tallest of four mountains in a chain. The other peaks are Torre Egger, Punta Herron, and Cerro Standhardt. The very top of Cerro Torre often has a big "mushroom" of ice. This ice forms because of the strong, constant winds. It makes reaching the true summit even harder for climbers.
Contents
First Climbs on Cerro Torre
Climbing Cerro Torre has a lot of interesting history and some debates.
Early Attempts and Disputed Claim
In 1959, a climber named Cesare Maestri said he and Toni Egger had reached the top. Maestri claimed Egger was swept away by an avalanche while they were coming down. He also said Egger had the camera with photos of the summit, but the camera was never found. Many climbers doubted Maestri's story because there was no proof left on the mountain, like ropes or bolts.
Years later, in 2005, a team of climbers including Ermanno Salvaterra, Rolando Garibotti, and Alessandro Beltrami tried the route Maestri described. They found no signs that anyone had climbed there before.
The Compressor Route Controversy
Maestri returned to Cerro Torre in 1970. He tried a new route on the southeast side. This time, he used a gas-powered drill to place many bolts into the rock. He climbed about 350 meters (1,150 feet) up the rocky part of the mountain. He stopped just below the ice mushroom at the top. Maestri said the mushroom was "not part of the mountain" and didn't continue. He left the drill tied to the last bolts, about 100 meters (330 feet) from the very top. Many climbers criticized Maestri for using so many bolts, calling his methods "unfair."
This route is now known as the Compressor route. In 1979, Jim Bridwell and Steve Brewer were the first to climb this route all the way to the summit, including the ice mushroom. Most climbers agree that you haven't truly climbed Cerro Torre unless you reach the very top of the ice mushroom.
First Confirmed Ascent
The first climb that everyone agrees reached the summit happened in 1974. It was done by a group of Italian climbers called "Ragni di Lecco." The team included Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari, and Pino Negri.
More Amazing Ascents
Many climbers have faced the challenge of Cerro Torre over the years.
Alpine Style and Traverses
In 1977, Dave Carman, John Bragg, and Jay Wilson from the USA made the first Alpine style ascent. This means they climbed quickly with minimal gear, carrying everything with them. It took them one week, while the first undisputed ascent took the Italian team two months.
In 2008, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley achieved an incredible feat. They completed the first full traverse of the entire mountain group. This meant climbing Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre all in one trip!
Debates on Climbing Ethics
In 2010, Austrian climber David Lama was involved in a discussion about climbing ethics. Some new bolts and fixed ropes were added to the Compressor Route during his trip. Even though Lama didn't drill the bolts himself, his trip was sponsored by Red Bull, and many climbers felt he and Red Bull were responsible. These bolts were placed near natural cracks that climbers usually use for safety. This caused a big debate among climbers who believe in traditional, "fair" climbing methods. Lama later said he regretted what happened.
The "Fair Means" Ascent
On January 16, 2012, American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk made a special climb. They did the first "fair-means" ascent of the Southeast Ridge. This means they used very few bolts, only two of Maestri's original safety anchors. After reaching the summit, Kennedy and Kruk removed 125 of Maestri's bolts as they came down. Many climbers praised their actions, saying it helped restore Cerro Torre's challenge.
Just three days later, on January 19, 2012, David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first "free ascent" of the Southeast Ridge. This means they climbed using only their hands and feet on the rock, relying on ropes only to catch them if they fell. They also avoided Maestri's bolts.
Notable Climbs and Attempts
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Here are some other important climbs on Cerro Torre:
- 1959 – Cesare Maestri (Italy) and Toni Egger (Austria) - Disputed climb of the West Face. Egger died.
- 1970 – Maestri and others (Italy) - Climbed the Compressor route to 60 meters (200 feet) below the summit.
- 1974 – Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari, and Pino Negri (Italy) - First confirmed ascent.
- 1977 – Dave Carman, John Bragg, and Jay Wilson (USA) - First Alpine-style ascent.
- 1979 – Jim Bridwell and Steve Brewer - Completed the Compressor Route to the summit.
- 1985 July 3–8 – Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, and Ermanno Salvaterra (Italy) - First winter ascent.
- 1985 November 26 – Marco Pedrini (Swiss) - First solo climb of the Compressor route.
- 2008 February 25 – Valery Rozov - Made the first wingsuit BASE jump from Cerro Torre.
- 2012 January 16 – Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk - First 'fair means' ascent of the Southeast Ridge, removing many old bolts.
- 2012 January 19 – David Lama and Peter Ortner - First free ascent of the Southeast Ridge.
- 2013 February – Markus Pucher (Austria) - First free solo climb of Cerro Torre.
- 2015 February 21 – Marc-André Leclerc - Soloed the Corkscrew route, a very difficult climb.
- 2020 February 7 – Fabian Buhl (Germany) - First climb and fly from the summit using a paraglider.
See also
In Spanish: Cerro Torre para niños
