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San Juan Achiutla
Municipality and town
San Juan Achiutla is located in Mexico
San Juan Achiutla
San Juan Achiutla
Location in Mexico
Country  Mexico
State Oaxaca
Area
 • Total 49.76 km2 (19.21 sq mi)
Population
 (2005)
 • Total 401
Time zone UTC-6 (Central Standard Time)
 • Summer (DST) UTC-5 (Central Daylight Time)

San Juan Achiutla is a town and municipality in Oaxaca, located in southwestern Mexico. It covers an area of about 49.76 square kilometers. The town is nestled in a mountain range, surrounded by hills like Negro, Yucuquise, Cuate, and Totolote.

The Los Sabinos river flows through the area, and there's a dam called Cahuayande. The weather here is mild. San Juan Achiutla is part of the Mixteca Alta, a high-altitude region within the larger Mixteca area. This place was very important even before the Spanish arrived. In 2005, the municipality had a total population of 401 people.

The Mixteca Region

In 1906, a French scientist named Leon Diguet wrote about the Mixteca region. He explained that this mountainous area was home to the Mixtec Indians. After the Spanish arrived, it became known as La Mixteca province.

The name Mixtecapan comes from the Nahuatl word Mixtlan, which means "cloudy or foggy land." This name was probably given because the high mountains of the Mixteca Alta often have cool, cloudy weather. This region includes parts of the modern-day states of Oaxaca, Puebla, and Guerrero.

The original Mixtec name for their land is not known. However, a missionary named Father Antonio de los Reyes, who lived there around 1593, said that the Zapotecs (a neighboring group) called the Mixtecs Mixtoquijxi, meaning "wild cats." This might have been a joke about how tough the places were where the Mixtecs chose to live.

Achiutla's History

Hombre de San Juan Achiutla, Oaxaca, Mex
This pre-Columbian piece, "The Achiutla's man," was found in San Juan Achiutla.

Leon Diguet also studied the history of Achiutla. He believed that two places were key to the Mixtec people settling down: Apoala and Achiutla. These places grew into important cities, even though today they are smaller towns.

Achiutla, also known as Achioztlan, is now represented by two towns: San Juan Achiutla and San Miguel Achiutla. In 1906, their combined population was about 1,800 people. The old city of Achiutla was north of San Miguel, on a plateau where a church now stands. Before the Spanish conquest, Achiutla might have had as many as 14,000 inhabitants. However, an epidemic greatly reduced its population.

Achiutla was a very important spiritual center in the High Mixteca region. It was home to the Taysacca, or religious leader. The temple there was famous, and people came from all over to worship a god believed to be a form of Quetzalcoatl. This god was represented by a large emerald with a bird and a snake carved into it. The Spanish were amazed by this jewel, but missionaries later destroyed it.

Hacha, flechas San Juan Achiutla, Oaxaca México
A stone axe, obsidian arrowheads, and a malacate (winch) found in San Juan Achiutla.

Near the old city, there is a cave that looks like a tunnel. It was thought to connect to San Juan, allowing people to travel between the towns during wars. The Nahuatl name Achiutla might come from this cave, meaning "place of the frequented cave." Another idea is that it means "site where roads ooze water."

The Mixtec name for the city was Sundecu or Sundico, meaning "village made into dust." This name might have been given because the sacred emerald was ground into dust by missionaries. Achiutla's important location and religious significance likely made people see it as the origin place of the Mixtec nation.

Sacred Landscapes and Ancient Beliefs

Jansen and Pérez Jiménez wrote about Achiutla in their book Paisajes Sagrados. They mention the Codex Añute (Selden), which shows a princess traveling underground from a rock opening near a river. This place was where the "Heart of the Rain People" jewel was honored. This is likely the cave Ñuu Ndecu (Achiutla).

Dios de la lluvia, San Juan Achiutla, Oaxaca, Mexico
This pre-Columbian rain deity, Dzahui, made of raindrops, was found in San Juan Achiutla.

Manuel A. Hermann Lejarazu explains that Ñuu Ndecu (Achiutla), also called "Burning City," was the spiritual heart of the High Mixteca. It was home to a "Great Temple" where leaders sought advice for peace and war. People from far away came to ask for favors and guidance.

The Mixtec origin story tells of the Sun and Venus gods throwing darts from the sky. One dart fertilized the Earth, leading to the birth of the first ancestor. The granddaughter of this first lord married a prince who was born from a large tree in the "City on Flames," Ñuu Ndecu (Achiutla).

The main temple was on the highest mountain. The high priest worshipped a sacred item called "The People's Heart." This was an ancient jade stone, shaped like a bird and a coiled snake. It represented the divine power of Mesoamerica, similar to Quetzalcoatl.

Piedra Negrito
The Negrito Stone, a Mixtec household tool used to light fires in the dark. It is made of basalt and is 13 cm in diameter and 8 cm high.

The historian Francisco Burgoa described "The People's Heart" in 1674, long after it was destroyed. He said it was a transparent emerald, carved with a bird and a snake, and it seemed to glow from within. It was a very old and highly respected jewel.

The Aztecs conquered Achiutla in the 15th century and burned its main temple in 1462. This event is why one of the meanings of Ñuu Nducu is "burned town" or "city in flames."

Traces of the Colonial Period

05 Pila bautismal periodo hispano
The baptismal font from the colonial period in San Juan Achiutla.

When Hernán Cortés arrived in Mexico, the Aztec ruler Moctezuma II sent gifts to the "People's Heart" deity in Achiutla. He wanted to know what fate awaited his people. The Oracle gave a sad message: "Moctezuma's lordship is over." This news reached Ñuu Ndecu when Lord 2 Vulture and Lady 13 House ruled.

From 1522 to 1528, Achiutla was unfairly controlled by Martín Vázquez, who was later punished for mistreating the local chiefs. In 1528, Achiutla became part of Francisco Maldonado's encomienda (a Spanish system of forced labor). The town gave him 48 gold dust "tejuelos." Later, in 1550, his wife, Doña Isabel Roxas, took over the encomienda.

In 1555, the viceroy ordered that the Santo Domingo religious order be allowed into Achiutla. The Dominicans finally settled in Ñuu Ndecu in 1557 and built a "doctrine-convent."

Cámara de explosión
An explosion chamber, used in San Juan Achiutla from colonial times to the early 20th century. It was filled with gunpowder and detonated. It is 10 cm high and 4.5 cm wide.

One of the Dominican priests, Fray Benito Hernández, wrote a Christian catechism in Mixtec. He is known for converting the Mixtecs of Ñuu Ndecu. However, the people continued their old religious practices secretly in nearby caves and hills, worshipping "The People's Heart." Fray Benito found out about this sacred image and went to the summit where it was kept. He destroyed the ceremonial center, which contained "an immensity of several figures of idols." He also had "The People's Heart" ground into powder and scattered it in front of a large crowd. This happened shortly after 1557.

In 1584, the colonial government issued land titles for San Juan Achiutla. In 1748, communal titles were issued.

The San Juan Evangelista Church in San Juan Achiutla has an oil painting from this period. It dates to 1749 and shows the Holy Trinity, an Archangel, Saint Dominic, Saint Francis of Assisi, and a scene of purgatory. Below, a solemn mass is depicted. This painting suggests that some people in the town had enough money to commission art and hold important religious ceremonies.

Modern Times

San Juan Achiutla does not have a municipal archive, so it's hard to trace its history through official documents. Much of its recent history is known through oral tradition and personal accounts.

1945 Jacales
In 1945, a farmer stands by his "jacal," a typical rural house in San Juan Achiutla at that time.
1945 familia achiutleca
A family from San Juan Achiutla in 1945.
1945 campesino achiutleco
A farmer from San Juan Achiutla in 1945, wearing typical clothing.
Campesino de San Juan Achiutla, Oaxaca, Mëxico, 1945
Teodoro Trujillo, a countryman from San Juan Achiutla in 1945.
1948 Campesinos achiutlecos con venado
In 1948, San Juan Achiutla residents with a deer. The young man is Jesús A. Ruiz Sánchez.
1952 Recorrido trazado camino Ixtapa Tlacotepec
San Juan Achiutla residents in 1952, during the Ixtapa-Tlacotepec road survey. Don Rutilio Ruiz Hernández is in the center with a gray mustache.
1953 trazado camino Ixtapa - Tlacotepec
Farmers from San Juan Achiutla working on the Ixtapa-Tlacotepec road construction in 1953.
1954 Partidos basquetbol SJA
Basketball games during the patron saint festival of San Juan Achiutla in 1957.
1957 Fiesta Patronal
The award ceremony for basketball games at the 1957 patron saint festival in San Juan Achiutla. Raúl Ruiz Bautista is in the dark suit.
1957 Fiesta SJA Premiación
Raúl Ruiz Bautista in a dark suit at the 1957 basketball award ceremony during the patron saint festival.
07 Camino bajando
The Ixtapa-Tlacotepec road reaching San Juan Ñuu Ndecu, Achiutla.
12 Aulas SJA
Old classrooms of San Juan Achiutla, demolished in January 2011.
Destrucción de Antiguas Aulas en San Juan Achiutla
The same view in January 2011, after the old classrooms were demolished. This was a loss of historical heritage.
11 Mujeres en la calle SJA
A street in San Juan Achiutla.
10 Iglesia de SJA
The San Juan Evangelista church in San Juan Achiutla.
Escuela Fco I Madero San Juan Achiutla Oaxaca México
The Francisco I. Madero primary school in San Juan Achiutla.
Venta de Tortillas y Zapotes
Women selling tortillas and zapotes in San Juan Achiutla.
Cocina en San Juan Achiutla, Oaxaca, México
A traditional kitchen in San Juan Achiutla.
Capilla del Barrio de Dolores
The chapel of Barrio de Dolores.
Asamblea municipal en San Juan Achiutla, Oaxaca, México, 2018
A municipal assembly in San Juan Achiutla in 2018.

In 2010, a book of memoirs by Raúl Ruiz Bautista, Camino por la Mixteca, helped fill in some gaps in San Juan Achiutla's history. This book covers events from after the Mexican Revolution into the 21st century. The history of San Juan and the construction of the Ixtapa-Tlacotepec road are closely linked.

Key Events in the 20th Century

  • 1920s: Many people from San Juan Achiutla migrated to Veracruz State to find work in factories or on farms. They often returned for the town's feast on December 27.
  • 1929: The first primary school was built, with Rutilio Ruiz Hernández as the teacher.
  • 1935: The elementary school became the Rural Federal School Francisco I. Madero.
  • 1936: Eliseo Ruiz López was the first person from San Juan Achiutla to leave to study at a rural teacher's college.
  • 1942: The municipality of San Juan Achiutla was officially established. Also, the community's communal land was legally titled.
  • 1947: The Municipal Palace was built.
  • 1949: Raúl Ruiz Bautista launched a plan to build the San Felipe Ixtapa - San Agustín Tlacotepec road to help the region. Rutilio Ruiz Hernández became the leader of the road construction.
  • 1951: The Regional Committee of Indigenous Youth and Communities was founded in San Juan Achiutla. Construction of the road began in October.
  • 1953: The Vanguardia Progresista de San Juan Achiutla en el Distrito Federal was formed by people from San Juan living in Mexico City to support their hometown.
  • 1954: Alfonso Caso, director of the National Indigenous Institute, visited and supported the road project.
  • 1956: Telephone service was connected to San Juan Achiutla. Workers on the road began to receive a basic wage after working for free for nearly five years.
  • 1958: A Post Office and telephone service were built. The first basketball court was also built with support from the Vanguardia Progresista.
  • 1961: Construction of the potable water system began. The first electricity generator was installed.
  • 1963: The Ixtapa-Tlacotepec road was officially opened after 15 years of effort. The drinking water system and electricity generator were also inaugurated.
  • 1965: A school census showed 285 students in primary school.
  • 1969: Construction of the electric network began.
  • 1971: The Las Lajas dam was built for irrigation.
  • 1979: A rural clinic was built.
  • 1980: The Federal Secondary School Eng. Alfonso Martínez Berges was established.
  • 1984: The first public telephone service (Telmex) was installed.
  • 1988-1989: The three domes of the Church of St. John the Evangelist were built.
  • 1993: The Mixteco Towns Union was created, aiming to expand and pave the Ixtapa-Tlacotepec road.
  • 2004: The IEBO (high school) campus 126 "Achiutla" was established to serve several towns.
  • 2008: Public internet services became available in San Juan Achiutla.
  • 2010s: Streets were paved and sidewalks built. Old classrooms at the elementary school were demolished, which was seen as a loss of cultural heritage. In 2011, the total number of students in San Juan Achiutla was 142, much lower than in 1965. The Ixtapa-Tlacotepec road, despite being led by San Juan Achiutla, remained unpaved in 2011.

Cultural and Historical Heritage

San Juan Achiutla has many important cultural and historical sites:

  • The Achiutla Pre-Hispanic site and the San Miguel Arcángel Dominican Convent.
  • The St. John the Evangelist Church.
  • A collection of 18th-century oil paintings inside the church.
14 Carcel SJA
The jail of San Juan Achiutla.
  • "El chorrito" drinking water box.
  • The prison and nearby municipal buildings.
  • The Municipal Palace.
  • The kiosk in the front garden at City Hall.
  • The monument to the flag.
  • The book Camino por la Mixteca by Raúl Ruiz Bautista, published in 2010, is also considered a valuable part of its heritage.

Cultural Traditions

The Mixtec culture, which San Juan Achiutla is part of, is a vibrant and living culture. Ronald Spores notes that Mixtec people have kept their identity and customs for over 3,000 years. They have adapted to new circumstances, even moving to other parts of Mexico and North America.

13 Kiosco SJA
The kiosk of San Juan Achiutla, which has since been demolished.

The Mixtec region covers a large area of about 40,000 square kilometers. It includes the High Mixteca (where San Juan Achiutla is), the Low Mixteca, and the Mixteca de la Costa. Even with many changes over centuries, Mixtec culture continues to thrive. Many Mixtec people have left their homeland, but their hearts and feelings remain connected to their traditions.

San Juan Achiutla preserves several ancient cultural traditions:

  • The tequio: This is required community work that helps keep the town clean and healthy.
  • The gueza (or guelaguetza): This is a system of mutual support, where neighbors and relatives help each other with supplies or money for celebrations like weddings, baptisms, funerals, or mayordomías. It's a promise to help back when needed.
  • The mayordomía: This is when an individual takes responsibility for organizing the annual Patron Saint San Juan festival. It can be a big financial commitment.
  • The posadas: These are festivities held for eight days before Christmas. They involve processions, prayers, and sharing food, drinks, gifts, and breaking piñatas.
  • The pastorela: A Christmas play performed by volunteer actors from the town.
  • The danza del guajolote (Turkey dance): The outgoing mayordomo gives a turkey as a gift to the new mayordomo through dancers.
  • Música de viento (wind music band): This band plays music for both religious and social events.
  • The pre-Hispanic legend of El flechador del sol (The Sun Archer), which mentions Achiutla.

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