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Derby shoe facts for kids

Kids Encyclopedia Facts
A Plein Derby
A plain Derby shoe

A derby is a type of shoe or boot. It is known for a special way its laces are attached. Imagine the parts of a shoe where the shoelaces go. In a derby shoe, these parts are sewn on top of the main front part of the shoe. This style is called "open lacing." It is different from another popular shoe style called the Oxford shoe, which has "closed lacing."

LEWIS, JAMES HAMILTON, REP. FROM WASHINGTON, 1897-1899; SENATOR FROM ILLINOIS, 1913-1919, 1931-. LEFT, WITH TUMULTY
Senator J. Hamilton Lewis and attorney Joseph P. Tumulty pictured wearing "white bucks", 1917

What Makes a Derby Shoe Unique?

A derby shoe has a special design. The parts of the shoe that hold the shoelace holes are called "quarters." These quarters are sewn on top of the "vamp," which is the main front section of the shoe. This creates an "open" look where the laces can be seen more clearly. This design often makes derby shoes feel more comfortable and easier to put on than shoes with "closed lacing."

Derby vs. Oxford: Open or Closed Lacing?

The main difference between a derby and an Oxford shoe is how the laces are attached.

  • Derby shoes have "open lacing." This means the parts with the eyelets (lace holes) are sewn on top of the shoe's front section.
  • Oxford shoes have "closed lacing." Here, the eyelet sections are sewn under the front part of the shoe, making a smoother, more formal look.

Understanding Derby Shoe Names

Sometimes, a derby shoe might be called by other names, depending on where you are or the exact design.

Is a Blucher a Derby?

In the United States, people sometimes call a derby shoe a "blucher." However, technically, a blucher is a slightly different shoe. In a blucher, only small tabs with eyelets are sewn onto the main front part of the shoe. A derby has larger sections (the quarters) sewn on top. So, while they look similar, there's a small design difference!

What Are "White Bucks"?

When a derby shoe is made from a soft, suede-like leather called buckskin, it can be called a "buck." If these shoes are light-colored, especially white, they are known as "white bucks." These often have a bright red sole, which makes them stand out!

The "White Bucks" Tradition

"White bucks" were very popular among students and graduates from famous colleges in the Eastern United States, like those in the Ivy League. Because of this, these shoes also became linked to important law offices in cities like New York and Boston. People even used the phrase "white-shoe firm" to describe these respected legal groups. It was a way to talk about their traditional and well-established style.

Derbybogen und -riegel
Detail of a man's derby-style dress shoe showing lacing eyelet tabs sewn on top of the vamp

A Brief History of the Derby Shoe

The derby shoe has an interesting past!

From Hunting Boots to City Style

In the 1850s, the derby first became popular as a strong boot for sport and hunting. People liked them because they were comfortable and practical for outdoor activities. As time went on, by the early 1900s, the derby shoe had become stylish enough to wear in towns and cities. It was no longer just for the countryside but a fashionable choice for everyday wear.

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