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Motuara Island
Motuara Island lookup tower.jpg
The wooden lookout tower on the summit of Motuara Island, near to where, in 1770, Captain Cook proclaimed British sovereignty over Queen Charlotte Sound
Geography
Location Marlborough Sounds
Coordinates 41°05.5′S 174°16.5′E / 41.0917°S 174.2750°E / -41.0917; 174.2750
Highest elevation 128 m (420 ft)
Administration
Department of Conservation (New Zealand)
Demographics
Population 0
Additional information
Bird sanctuary

Motuara Island is a beautiful and historic island located at the entrance to Tōtaranui / Queen Charlotte Sound. It's famous because of James Cook, a British explorer. In 1770, Cook climbed to the top of Motuara Island and officially claimed it and the nearby land for the British Empire. This event is still talked about today.

The island is about 59 hectares (which is like 145 acres) in size. Its name, Motuara, comes from the Māori language. Motu means island, and ara means path. So, Motuara means "the island in the path," likely referring to canoe routes.

What Was Māori Life Like on Motuara Island?

The entrance to Tōtaranui / Queen Charlotte Sound was a very important place. It was a busy spot for waka (canoes) carrying goods and people across Cook Strait. Motuara Island was a key stop for traders. They exchanged valuable items like pounamu (greenstone or jade) and pakohe (a type of stone called argillite).

Villages and Forts

People lived in kāinga (unfortified villages) close to where they could find food. Even though they often had peaceful times, different tribal groups sometimes fought over this important area. Because of this, they built a strong fort called a on a rocky islet near Motuara Island. This islet is now called Hippah Island. The cliffs of the islet helped protect them during fights. When there was a chance to trade or a conflict, people would gather at the for safety.

First Meeting with Captain Cook

When Captain Cook's ship, HMS Endeavour, sailed into the sound, the chief of Motuara was an older man named Topaa. He and his people paddled their waka out to meet the ship. This first meeting was friendly and lasted a long time. Tupaia, a Tahitian priest who was with Cook, helped them talk to each other.

Cook wrote in his journal about the friendly welcome:

The people here invited us ashore and showed us around their small village. It had many people, and they had lots of small fish drying, which they sold to us for small items we had.

—James Cook

Topaa told Tupaia that his ancestors came from Hawaiki, which was also Tupaia's homeland. Cook thought there were about 300 to 400 people living in the Motuara, Ship Cove, and Anahou areas.

Captain Cook's Claim of Motuara Island

While HMS Endeavour was at nearby Meretoto / Ship Cove, James Cook and his crew explored and mapped the sound, including Motuara Island. On January 31, 1770, Cook and his officers put up a flag pole on the island's highest point. They raised the Union Jack (the British flag) and claimed Queen Charlotte Sound for the British King.

Before raising the flag, Cook asked Chief Topaa and his people for permission to leave a mark on the island. This mark would show that the British had been there. It's still debated whether Cook followed his secret orders from the British Admiralty exactly. These orders said:

You should also, with the agreement of the local people, take control of useful places in the country for the King of Great Britain. If the country is empty, take control for His Majesty by putting up proper signs and writings, as the first discoverers and owners.

—British Admiralty

How Cook's Claim is Remembered Today

The way this event has been remembered has changed over time.

  • 150th Anniversary: In 1920, a stone monument (called a cairn) was put on the summit by a committee to mark the occasion. A plaque on it said that Cook raised the British Flag and claimed the land for King George III.
  • 200th Anniversary: Around 1970, local clubs built a lookout tower on the island. From this tower, you can see amazing views of the sound and out to Cook Strait.
  • 250th Anniversary: In 2020, a new information panel was put up. This panel, likely created by the Department of Conservation (New Zealand) with local iwi (tribes), tells a wider story. It respects all the different people "who have travelled to this special place."

After the flag ceremony, Cook's group toasted Queen Charlotte's health. They gave the empty bottle to Chief Topaa, who was "highly pleased." The information panel makes you wonder, "if Tapaa ever dreamed of what Cook’s actions would eventually mean for his people." Cook visited the sound five more times. He and other explorers, like Fabian von Bellingshausen, used Motuara as a lookout, a place to study the stars, a signal station, and even a garden.

Motuara Island's Amazing Plants and Animals

The island used to have many native birds and hills covered in thick bush, which everyone admired. Cook's men even planted vegetable gardens on Motuara. However, when Cook returned later, he wrote that the gardens were "almost wild," as the local people hadn't looked after them. Still, many plants were growing well, showing how good the soil was.

Later, Tobias Furneaux planted more vegetables on the HMS Adventure. His garden grew very well and provided much-needed food for the crews of ships returning to the area. Over time, seeds from this garden spread across New Zealand.

Protecting Motuara's Wildlife

From the mid-1800s, people from nearby Anahou cleared more of the island's plants to make way for their own gardens. By the early 1900s, much of the remaining plants were eaten by goats and later by sheep.

All farm animals were removed in 1925. In 1976, the island was officially made a scenic and historical reserve. Since rats were removed in 1991, the forest has grown back naturally. Today, Motuara Island is a safe home for native birds, reptiles, and insects. It's even a special place where young Okarito kiwi chicks are raised. Because the island is free of pests, birds like robins, saddlebacks, grey warblers, bellbirds, tui, and fantails have been brought back to live there.

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