Shauna Coxsey facts for kids
![]() Coxsey in August 2017
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Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Born | Runcorn, England |
27 January 1993 ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 164 cm | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 58 kg | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Spouse(s) |
Ned Feehally
(m. 2021) |
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Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | Bouldering | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade |
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Sport | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Retired | 2021 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Updated on 13 August 2019. |
Shauna Coxsey MBE (born 27 January 1993) is a famous English rock climber. She is known for being the most successful competition climber from the UK. Shauna won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season twice, in 2016 and 2017. She stopped competing after the 2020 Olympics but still enjoys climbing outdoors at a high level.
Contents
Shauna's Early Life
Shauna Coxsey was born in Runcorn, England, on 27 January 1993. She started climbing when she was only four years old in 1997. She was inspired after watching a TV show about a climber named Catherine Destivelle climbing in Mali. Even though she was too short at first, she kept asking to try. A few months later, she was finally allowed to climb on the wall.
Shauna's Amazing Climbing Career
Shauna Coxsey spent most of her career in competition climbing. She took part in many international bouldering competitions. Bouldering is a type of climbing done on small rocks or walls without ropes. She won the British Bouldering Championships many times.
Early Competition Success
In 2012, Shauna won the 9th Melloblocco event. She also came in second place in two World Cup events that year, in Log-Dragomer and Innsbruck. Overall, she finished third in the 2012 Bouldering World Cup.
In 2013, she achieved a big goal by climbing her first problem graded 8B (V13) . This climb was called Nuthin' But Sunshine in Rocky Mountain National Park. Later that year, she became one of the first British Mountaineering Council Ambassadors in the UK.
World Cup Achievements
In 2014, Shauna finished second overall in the IFSC Bouldering World Cup. She also placed fourth at the Bouldering World Championships in Munich. That same year, she became only the third woman ever to climb a 8B+ (V14) problem. This climb was called New Baseline in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
In 2015, she won the British Bouldering Championships in Sheffield. She also took first place at the Bouldering World Cup in Munich.
Overcoming Injuries and Olympic Dreams
In late 2016, Shauna had a shoulder injury. This stopped her from competing in the Bouldering World Championships that year. However, she still topped the overall rankings in the Bouldering World Cup. She won four IFSC Climbing World Cups in 2016. These wins were in Meiringen (Switzerland), Kazo (Japan), Innsbruck (Austria), and Sheffield (UK).
In 2017, she won four more Bouldering World Cup stages. These were in Meiringen (Switzerland), Kazo (Japan), Mumbai (India), and Vail (USA). She secured the overall 2017 title. Even though she was mainly a boulderer, she started training in lead and speed climbing. This was part of her plan to compete in the 2020 Olympics. The Olympics would feature rock climbing as a combined sport for the first time.
Olympic Qualification and Retirement
In August 2019, Shauna won two bronze medals at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Hachioji, Japan. She won medals in both bouldering and the combined event. During the combined event finals, she set a new British women's speed climbing record. Her time was 9.141 seconds. This helped her get second place in the speed part of the competition.
By reaching the finals of the combined event, Shauna earned a spot for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. This was the first time competitive climbing was included in the Olympics. When the Olympics finally happened in 2021, Shauna was recovering from a back injury. She had surgery and rehabilitation. She finished 10th in the competition. After the Olympics, she retired from competitive climbing. She still climbs at an elite level outdoors, focusing on bouldering.
Climbing After Competition
In 2022, Shauna continued climbing indoors while she was pregnant with her first child. She worked with a special physiotherapist and her husband, who is also a climber. They helped her find safe routes as her body changed. After having her child, she returned to outdoor climbing. She has continued to climb at a very high level. In 2024, she successfully climbed three 8B+ (V14) problems.
Shauna's Personal Life
Shauna Coxsey was given the title of Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in 2016. This award was for her great contributions to climbing. She married fellow climber Ned Feehally in 2021. They live in Sheffield, England.
Competition Rankings
World Cup Rankings
Discipline | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 |
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Lead | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 30 | - | - | - |
Bouldering | 38 | 19 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 9 | 10 | 61 |
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
Combined | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 3 | - | - | - |
World Championships Rankings
Youth Competitions
Discipline | 2008 Youth B |
2009 Youth A |
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Lead | 9 | 19 |
Adult Competitions
Discipline | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 |
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Bouldering | 16 | - | 4 | - | - | 3 |
Lead | - | - | - | - | - | 17 |
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 41 |
Combined | - | - | - | - | - | 3 |
World Cup Podium Finishes
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
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2012 | 3 | 3 | ||
2013 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
2014 | 2 | 3 | 1 | 6 |
2015 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
2016 | 4 | 2 | 6 | |
2017 | 4 | 2 | 6 | |
2018 | 0 | |||
2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
Total | 11 | 12 | 7 | 30 |
Outdoor Bouldering Achievements
Shauna Coxsey is the first British woman to climb the very difficult V12, V13, and V14 grades in outdoor bouldering.
V14 Climbs
- New Base Line – Magic Wood (Switzerland) – July 12, 2014 – She was the first woman to climb this boulder.
- Fotofobia - La Pedriza, Spain - March 2024
- The Boss - Yarncliff Edge, Peak District - May 2024 – She was the first woman to climb this route.
- Hazel Grace - Gotthard Pass, Switzerland - June 2024
V13 Climbs
- Ropes of Maui – Dinas Mot (United Kingdom) – April 5, 2016 – She was the first woman to climb this route.
- One Summer in Paradise – Magic Wood (Switzerland) – July 3, 2014 – She was the second woman to climb this route.
- Zarzaparrilla – Albarracin (Spain) – March 31, 2014 – She was the first woman to climb this route.
- Nuthin But Sunshine – Lower Chaos (Rocky Mountain National Park, United States) – June 26, 2013 – She was the first woman to climb this route.
- Wild Wild West - La Pedriza, Spain - March 2024
- Pin y Pon - La Pedriza, Spain - March 2024
See also
In Spanish: Shauna Coxsey para niños
- List of grade milestones in rock climbing
- History of rock climbing
- Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals