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Stefano Ghisolfi
StefanoGhisolfi-1.JPG
Ghisolfi competing at the European Championships, Chamonix, 2013.
Personal information
Born (1993-02-18) February 18, 1993 (age 32)
Turin, Italy
Occupation Professional rock climber
Height 170 cm
Weight 58 kg
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
  • Redpoint: 9b+ (5.15c)
  • On-sight: 8c (5.14b)
  • Bouldering: 8B+ (V14)
Known for
  • Fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route
First ascents
  • Excalibur (2023, 9b+)
  • Erebor (2021, 9b)
Medal record
World Cup
Second 2017 Lead
Second 2018 Lead
2021 Lead
Updated on December 7, 2018.

Stefano Ghisolfi was born on February 18, 1993, in Italy. He is a professional rock climber. He is really good at different types of climbing, like competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering.

In competitions, he competes in lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Lead climbing is where he is strongest. In sport climbing, he has climbed very difficult routes. He has "redpointed" routes graded 9b+ (5.15c). This means he climbed them after practicing them first. He has also "onsighted" routes graded 8c (5.14b). This means he climbed them perfectly on his first try without any practice. He has also solved "boulder problems" at grade 8B+ (V14). Boulder problems are short, tricky climbs without ropes.

In December 2018, Stefano became one of only a few climbers in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route. This was after he climbed a route called Perfecto Mundo.

Stefano's Climbing Journey

Competition Climbing Achievements

Stefano Ghisolfi started competing internationally in 2007. This was at the IFSC European Youth Cup.

He won bronze medals in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships in 2010 and 2011. He also competed in the adult World Championships. He finished tenth overall in all climbing types.

Stefano first reached the podium in a World Cup event in 2012. He won a bronze medal in Xining, China. He later won gold medals in World Cup stages in China in 2014, 2016, and 2017.

Amazing Rock Climbs

Stefano has made some incredible climbs on real rocks.

On November 2, 2015, he made the first "free ascent" of a route called Lapsus in Italy. This means he climbed it using only his hands and feet on the rock. He suggested it was a 9b (5.15b) route.

On December 7, 2018, he climbed Perfecto Mundo in Spain. This was a 9b+ (5.15c) route. He was only the fourth climber ever to redpoint a route of this difficulty. The other climbers were Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos.

On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of Change [fr] in Norway. This route is also a 9b+ (5.15c). It was the first 9b+ route ever, first climbed by Adam Ondra in 2012.

On August 24, 2021, he made the second ascent of Bibliographie in France. This route was first climbed by Alex Megos. It was originally thought to be a 9c route. But Stefano suggested it was a 9b+ (5.15c) instead.

On February 2, 2023, Stefano made the first ascent of Excalibur in Italy. He suggested this new route was also a 9b+ (5.15c).

Competition Rankings and Medals

World Cup Success

Stefano has done very well in the Climbing World Cup. He finished second overall in Lead climbing in both 2017 and 2018. In 2021, he achieved his best result, finishing first overall in Lead climbing.

He has won a total of 15 medals in the Lead Climbing World Cup. This includes 6 gold medals, 6 silver medals, and 3 bronze medals.

Youth Championships

As a young climber, Stefano also earned medals. He won two bronze medals in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships. He also won a bronze medal at the European Youth Championships in 2012.

Super Hard Rock Climbs

Stefano Ghisolfi has redpointed many very difficult routes. Here are some of his most famous ones:

Routes Graded 9b+ (5.15c)

  • Perfecto Mundo - Margalef, Spain - December 7, 2018. He was the first to repeat this climb.
  • Change [fr] - Flatanger, Norway - September 29, 2020. He was the first to repeat this climb.
  • Bibliographie - Céüse, France - August 24, 2021. He was the first to repeat this climb. He suggested a slightly lower grade for it.
  • Excalibur - Arco, Italy - February 5, 2023. This was a brand new route that he climbed first.

Routes Graded 9b (5.15b)

Stefano has redpointed several routes at this very high difficulty level. Some of these include:

  • Move Hard - Flatanger, Norway - September 16, 2022
  • L'Arenauta - Sperlonga, Italy - February 10, 2022 (First ascent)
  • The Lonely Mountain - Arco, Italy - December 17, 2021 (First ascent)
  • Erebor - Arco, Italy - January 11, 2021 (First ascent)
  • Lapsus - Andonno, Italy - November 2, 2015 (First ascent)

Routes Graded 9a+ (5.15a)

He has also redpointed many routes at the 9a+ (5.15a) grade, including famous ones like:

  • La Rambla - Siurana, Spain - March 20, 2017
  • Realization - Céüse, France - June 21, 2015

Routes Graded 9a (5.14d)

Stefano has also redpointed many routes at the 9a (5.14d) grade, including:

  • Underground - Arco, Italy - July 5, 2014
  • TCT - Gravere, Italy - May 31, 2014 (First ascent)

Onsight Climbs

Stefano has also onsighted (climbed perfectly on the first try) some very hard routes:

  • Fish Eye - Oliana, Spain - January 8, 2017 (8c (5.14b))
  • Falconeti - Montsant, Spain - January 2013 (8b+ (5.14a))

Bouldering Challenges

Stefano has climbed five 8B (V13) and two 8B+ (V14) boulder problems. These are very difficult short climbs.

He also won the Melloblocco event four times, from 2013 to 2016. Melloblocco is a big international bouldering festival.

See also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Stefano Ghisolfi para niños

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