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Stefano Ghisolfi
StefanoGhisolfi-1.JPG
Ghisolfi competing at the European Championships, Chamonix, 2013.
Personal information
Born (1993-02-18) February 18, 1993 (age 32)
Turin, Italy
Occupation Professional rock climber
Height 170 cm
Weight 58 kg
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
  • Redpoint: 9b+ (5.15c)
  • On-sight: 8c (5.14b)
  • Bouldering: 8B+ (V14)
Known for
  • Fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route
First ascents
  • Excalibur (2023, 9b+)
  • Erebor (2021, 9b)
Medal record
World Cup
Second 2017 Lead
Second 2018 Lead
2021 Lead
Updated on December 7, 2018.

Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an amazing Italian professional rock climber. He is super good at different types of climbing, like competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competitions, he mostly focuses on competition lead climbing, where he's one of the best.

As a sport climber, Stefano has achieved some incredible feats. He has successfully climbed routes that are graded 9b+ (5.15c). This is a very difficult level! He has also climbed routes on his first try (called an onsight) at 8c (5.14b). Plus, he's solved tough bouldering problems at 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, he became only the fourth climber ever to climb a 9b+ (5.15c) route called Perfecto Mundo.

Climbing Adventures

Competition Climbing

Stefano started competing internationally in 2007 at the IFSC European Youth Cup. He quickly showed his talent!

In both 2010 and 2011, he won bronze medals in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships. This means he was one of the top three young climbers in the world! He also competed against adults in the World Championships and finished in the top ten overall.

On October 13, 2012, Stefano earned his first medal in a World Cup event, taking home a bronze in Xining, China. He later won gold medals in World Cup stages in China in 2014, 2016, and 2017.

Rock Climbing

Stefano has also made a name for himself by climbing some of the hardest routes outdoors on real rocks.

On November 2, 2015, he was the first person to successfully climb a route called Lapsus in Andonno, Italy. This route has 70 holds and he suggested it was a 9b (5.15b) difficulty. This is called a first free ascent (FFA).

On December 7, 2018, Stefano climbed the incredibly hard 9b+ (5.15c) route Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Spain. This made him only the fourth climber in history to successfully climb a route of this extreme difficulty. The other climbers who had done it before him were Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos.

He continued to conquer tough routes. On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of Change [fr], another 9b+ (5.15c) route in Flatanger Municipality, Norway. This route was the very first 9b+ route ever climbed, first done by Adam Ondra in 2012.

Then, on August 24, 2021, Stefano made the second ascent of Bibliographie in Céüse, France. This route was first climbed by Alex Megos and was thought to be even harder, a 9c. But after Stefano climbed it, he suggested it was a 9b+ (5.15c) instead.

Most recently, on February 2, 2023, Stefano made the first ascent of Excalibur in Arco, Italy. He proposed that this new route is also a 9b+ (5.15c).

Rankings and Medals

Climbing World Cup

Stefano has done very well in the Lead Climbing World Cup. He finished second overall in both 2017 and 2018. In 2021, he achieved his best result, winning first place overall in the Lead discipline!

Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021
Lead 21 24 10 10 9 9 4 2 2 5 1
Bouldering 65 83 30 41
Speed 17 30 38
Combined 10 10 4 9

World Championships

Stefano has also competed in the World Championships, both as a youth and an adult.

Youth Championships

He won bronze medals in Lead climbing in 2010 and 2011.

Discipline 2008
Youth B
2009
Youth A
2010
Youth A
2011
Juniors
2012
Juniors
Lead 5 15 3 3 13
Speed 5 6 5 - 17

Adult Championships

As an adult, he has consistently placed well in Lead climbing, reaching 7th place in 2016.

Discipline 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018
Lead 27 16 10 7 22
Bouldering 25 16
Speed 30 33

European Championships

Stefano also has a bronze medal from the Youth European Championships in 2012 for Lead climbing.

Discipline 2012
Juniors
Lead 3

Medals in World Cup (Lead)

Stefano has won a total of 15 medals in the Lead Climbing World Cup, including 6 gold medals!

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2012 1 1
2013 0
2014 1 1
2015 0
2016 1 1 2
2017 1 1 1 3
2018 2 2 4
2019 1 1
2020 0
2021 1 2 3
Total 6 6 3 15

Amazing Climbs

Redpointed Routes (Very Hard!)

Stefano has successfully "redpointed" many super difficult routes. Redpointing means you climb a route after practicing it, without falling.

  • 9b+ (5.15c) routes:

* Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Spain (2018) - He was the first to repeat this climb. * Change [fr] in Flatanger Municipality, Norway (2020) - Also a first repeat for him. * Bibliographie in Céüse, France (2021) - Another first repeat. * Excalibur in Arco, Italy (2023) - This was his very own first ascent!

  • 9b (5.15b) routes:

* Move Hard (2022) * L'Arenauta (2022) - His first ascent. * The Lonely Mountain (2021) - His first ascent. * Erebor (2021) - His first ascent. * La Capella (2018) * One Slap (2017) * First Round, First Minute (2017) * Lapsus (2015) - His first ascent.

Onsighted Routes (First Try!)

"Onsight" means climbing a route perfectly on your very first attempt, without any practice or tips. Stefano has onsighted some tough ones!

  • 8c (5.14b):

* Fish Eye in Oliana, Spain (2017)

  • 8b+ (5.14a):

* Falconeti (2013) * L-mens (2013)

Boulder Problems

Stefano has also conquered many challenging bouldering problems. He has climbed five 8B (V13) and two 8B+ (V14) boulder problems.

He won the Melloblocco bouldering festival four times in a row, from 2013 to 2016!

See also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Stefano Ghisolfi para niños

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