Alexander Megos facts for kids

Quick facts for kids
Alexander Megos

Megos at the 2022 European Championships
Personal information
Nationality	German
Born	(1993-08-12) 12 August 1993 (age 31) Erlangen, Germany
Occupation	Professional rock climber
Height	170 cm
Weight	57 kg
Climbing career
Type of climber	Competition climbing Sport climbing Bouldering
Highest grade	Redpoint: 9b+ (5.15c) On-sight: 9a (5.14d) Bouldering: 8C (V15)
Known for	First-ever person to onsight a 9a (5.14d) Third-ever person to climb 9b+ (5.15c)
First ascents	Fight Club (9b, 2016) Perfecto Mundo (9b+, 2018) Bibliographie (9b+, 2020) Ratstaman Vibrations (9b, 2022) The Full Journey (9b, 2022)
Medal record Men's competition climbing Representing  Germany World Championships Silver 2019 Hachiōji Lead Bronze 2018 Innsbruck Lead Bronze 2023 Bern Lead World Cup Gold Briancon 2018 Lead Silver Innsbruck 2024 Lead Silver Innsbruck 2023 Lead Silver Villars 2021 Lead Silver Chamonix 2019 Lead Silver Kranj 2017 Lead Bronze Villars 2023 Lead Bronze Briancon 2022 Lead Bronze Villars 2019 Lead Bronze Chamonix 2018 Lead
Updated on 27 June 2024.

Alexander "Alex" Megos, born on August 12, 1993, is a famous rock climber from Germany. He is known for his amazing skills in different types of climbing, like sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing.

In 2013, Alex made history. He became the very first climber to "onsight" a route graded 9a (5.14d). Onsight means climbing a route perfectly on your first try, without any practice or falls. He has also been the first to climb some of the world's hardest routes. These include three 9b+ (5.15c) routes and eight 9b (5.15b) routes. He has also conquered several very difficult "boulder problems" rated 8C (V15).

Early Life and Climbing Start

Alex Megos was born in Erlangen, Germany, on August 12, 1993. His family has some Greek heritage. Alex knows a little Greek and often visits Greece.

He started climbing when he was just six years old. By the age of ten, he was climbing tall routes up to 300 meters with his father. In 2006, Alex began training in Franconian Switzerland, a mountainous area in his home region of Bavaria. He also trained at the German Alpine Club's climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg. There, he was coached by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who still train him today.

In 2007, Alex completed his first 8a (5.13b) route. Two years later, in 2009, he climbed his first 8c (5.14b) route called Drive-by Shooting. By 2011, he had climbed his first 9a (5.14d) route, San Ku Kai.

Alex Megos' Climbing Career

Competition Climbing Achievements

Alex Megos began competing in climbing events in 2006. He won two youth European Championship titles in 2009 and 2010. He was also the runner-up in the youth World Championship in 2011. In 2009, he won every single competition in the EYC series.

In 2017, he placed second in bouldering at the European Championship. He also won his first World Cup in "lead climbing" in Briançon, France, on July 21, 2018. Lead climbing is where climbers attach their rope to quickdraws as they go up.

In 2017, he earned a silver medal for bouldering at the European Championships in Munich. He also got a silver medal at the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. In 2018, he won a bronze medal in lead climbing at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France. A week later, he won a gold medal at the Briancon World Cup. Later that year, he took a bronze medal at the World Championships in the lead competition. He then won a silver medal in lead at the 2019 World Championships. By reaching the finals of the combined event at the World Championships, he earned a spot for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo.

Alex has also competed in the La Sportiva Legends competitions. He has placed second and third many times, and won in 2018. He currently holds the highest point on Black Diamond's The Project. This is considered one of the world's hardest indoor climbing routes.

Sport Climbing Highlights

On March 24, 2013, Alex Megos climbed Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain. This was the world's first 9a (5.14d) "onsight" climb. In August 2013, Alex climbed The Red Project 9a (5.14d), which was Australia's first 9a (5.14d) route. He also climbed Wheelchair 9a+ (5.15a).

Alex Megos is known for climbing difficult routes very quickly. From mid-April to mid-June 2014, he completed nine routes. These routes ranged from 9a+ (5.15a) to 8c+ (5.14c) in Franconian Switzerland. This included Modified 9a+ (5.15a), one of the hardest routes in that area. He also managed to "redpoint" the famous Action Directe in just two hours, setting a record time. Redpoint means climbing a route after practicing it and falling, but then completing it without falling. He is also the only person to climb Biography (also known as Realization) 9a+ (5.15a) in Ceüse, France, in just one day.

In June 2014, Alex Megos and Roger Schäli completed the first climb of Fly 8c (5.14b) in Staldeflue, Switzerland. This 20-pitch route is one of the most challenging "big-wall" climbing routes in the world.

In April 2015, Alex returned to Australia. He completed the first climb of SchweinebaumeIn 9a (5.14d). On October 1, 2015, he climbed Supernova in Franconian Switzerland. This climb likely became the first route of grade 11+ (UIAA) (9a+ (5.15a)/9b (5.15b) French) in German-speaking countries.

Alex's climb of First Round First Minute in December 2015 was his first 9b (5.15b) route.

On May 9, 2018, he completed the first climb of Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Spain. This route was set up by Chris Sharma. Alex and Chris had tried it together several times. They graded it 9b+ (5.15c).

In August 2020, Alex finished his long-term project Bibliographie in Céüse. He worked on it for 60 days. He first graded it 9c (5.15d). However, in August 2021, after Stefano Ghisolfi also climbed it, the route was changed to 9b+ (5.15c). Alex agreed this was a better fit.

Also in 2020, Alex created ...graphie, a new route between Bibliographie and L’Étrange Ivress. He graded it 9a (5.14d) without using knee-pads.

Bouldering Achievements

In May 2020, Alex Megos climbed Upgrade U 8C (V15). This is one of the most challenging "bouldering problems" in his home region of northern Bavaria. Bouldering is climbing on large rocks or small cliffs without ropes, usually with crash pads for safety.

Notable Climbs

Redpointed Routes

• 9b+ (5.15c)
  • Bibliographie (August 5, 2020). First climb.
  • Perfecto Mundo (May 9, 2018). First climb.
  • Change (August 21, 2024). Fourth climb.

• 9b (5.15b)
  • First Round, First Minute (December 31, 2015). Third climb.
  • Fight Club (August 14, 2016). First climb.
  • Mejorando Imagen (April 25, 2021). Second climb.
  • King Capella (November 2021). Second climb.
  • Ratstaman Vibrations (July 31, 2022). First climb.
  • The Full Journey (October 9, 2022). First climb.
  • Sleeping Lion (January 4, 2024). Second climb.
  • Move (September 3, 2024). Third climb.

• 9a+ (5.15a)
  • Demencia Senil
  • La Rambla - Alex climbed it on his second try.
  • Biographie - Alex climbed it in one day, on his third try.
  • Corona - Third climb.
  • Classified - First climb.
  • Modified - First climb.
  • First Ley
  • Thor's Hammer - First repeat.
  • Geocache - First climb.
  • Becoming - First climb.
  • Super Crackinette - First climb.
  • Jaws 2 - Climbed on third try.

• 9a (5.14d)
  • Action Directe - Alex climbed this route in just two hours. It was the world's first 9a (5.14d) route.
  • La Sensación del Bloque - March 2017 - First climb of the first South American 9a (5.14d) in Valle de los Condores, Chile.
  • Dreamcatcher - Fourth climb. Climbed in one day.
  • Era Vella - Second try.
  • Speed Intégrale - Voralpsee, Switzerland in two days, 2017.
  • Coup de grâce - Val Bavona, Switzerland second try, 2017.
  • The Illusionist - Third climb.

• Other Notable Climbs
  • Pure Imagination: 8c+ (5.14c). Flashed (climbed perfectly on the first try after seeing someone else do it).
  • Fly: 8c (5.14b). Alex made the first free ascent of this twenty-pitch big wall in Switzerland.
  • Hubble: 8c+ (5.14c). Alex became the first person to climb both Action Directe and Hubble when he climbed Hubble in June 2016.

Onsighted Routes

• 9a (5.14d)
  • Estado Critico - World's first 9a (5.14d) onsight.
  • TCT

• 8c+ (5.14c)
  • Victimes del Passat

Boulder Problems

• 8C (V15) / 8C+ (V16)
  • Wheelchair - First climb. This is a very long boulder problem.

• 8C (V15)
  • The Story of Two Worlds - Climbed by Alex in December 2020.
  • Dreamtime - Climbed by Alex on December 18, 2020.
  • Upgrade U - First climb May 2020. It is the hardest boulder problem in the Frankenjura region.
  • Half Life - Second climb April 2020. Alex confirmed it as 8C (V15).
  • The Finnish Line - Summer 2017 - Second climb of this hard route in Rocklands, South Africa.
  • Wheel of Life: - Alex suggested a sport climbing grade of 9a (5.14d), but it is a long boulder problem, rated 8C (V15).
  • Lucid Dreaming - Third climb.

• 8B+ (V14)
  • Never Ending Story
  • Bad Boys for Life - First climb.
  • Montecore:
  • Riot Act
  • Double Demerit - First repeat.
  • Sky
  • Trainspotting - First climb.

Competition Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Championships

Megos in the 2018 World Championships lead finals

Youth Championships

Adult Championships

Climbing European Championships

World Cup Medals (Lead)

Personal Life

Alex Megos has been a vegan since the beginning of 2021.

Alex and his family have helped Ukrainian refugees by offering them places to stay in their properties in Erlangen. He said the refugees are like "friends and family" to them. He believes that athletes should use their public platform to help people.

See also

In Spanish: Alexander Megos para niños

• List of grade milestones in rock climbing
• History of rock climbing
• Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals