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The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie
The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie cover.jpg
First edition
Author Charlotte, Lady Clark
Catherine Frances Frere
Country Scotland
Subject 19th century British recipes
Genre Cookery
Publisher Constable & Company
Publication date
1909
Pages xviii + 584

The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie is a book of recipes collected over a lifetime by Charlotte, Lady Clark of Tillypronie (née Coltman, 1851–1897), and published posthumously in 1909. The earliest recipe was collected in 1841; the last in 1897. The book was edited by the artist Catherine Frances Frere, who had seen two other cookery books through to publication, at the request of Clark's husband.

The book is considered a valuable compilation of Victorian era recipes. Lady Clark obtained the recipes by asking hostesses or cooks, and then testing each one at Tillypronie. She documented each recipe's source with the name of her source, and often also the date. There is comprehensive coverage of plain British cooking, especially of meat and game, but the book has sections on all aspects of contemporary cooking including bread, cakes, eggs, cooking for invalids, jams, pies, sauces, sweets (puddings) and vegetables. She had lived in Italy and France, and the cuisines of these countries are represented by many dishes, as is Anglo-Indian cooking with a section called "Curries".

The book was enjoyed by Virginia Woolf and acted as a source of inspiration to the cookery writer Elizabeth David.

Context

Tillypronie is a Victorian era house between Ballater and Strathdon in Scotland, just east of the Cairngorms National Park, overlooking the valley of the River Dee; the gardens are open to the public. Lady Clark collected thousands of recipes for her own use between 1841 and 1897; among her house-guests in the 1870s was Henry James, who commented in a letter "I bless the old house on the mountain and its genial and bountiful tenants". Lady Clark was married to the diplomat Sir John Forbes Clark, second baronet. Sir John worked in Paris (seeing the 1848 revolution there), moving to Brussels in 1852 and Turin from 1852 to 1855; he married Charlotte in 1851. Living in Europe gave Lady Clark a detailed insight into Italian and French cooking – there are five recipes for Tartare sauce; and she was well informed about Anglo-Indian cookery, with dishes such as "Rabbit Pish-pash". Her approach was to ask her hostess or the cook how any interesting or unusual dish was made, and then to try out the recipe back at Tillypronie to ensure that it worked.

After Lady Clark's death in 1897, her widower invited Catherine Frances Frere (1848–1921), daughter of Sir Henry Bartle Frere, to assemble them into a book, asking:

I have asked you to stand sponsor for the publication of a selection from a number of cookery and household recipes, collected by my late wife – this for two reasons, firstly because I know you to be yourself not a little interested and versed in the science of Brillat Savarin; and secondly, and mainly, because, from your intimate acquaintance with her for many years you can bear testimony to her having been, not the mere "housewife" on culinary things intent, but an exceptionally widely-read woman, gifted with fine literary taste and judgement. ... In this confidence, and in the hope and belief that they may prove of service to many a young matron of like mind with her who made it, I confide the collection to you for your supervision and for publication. Yours sincerely, John F. Clark.

Frere was born in Malcolm Peth, Bombay on 25 September 1848. In later life she lived in Westbourne Terrace, London. The Cookery Book was not Frere's first publication; at the age of 20 she had illustrated her sister Mary's book, Old Deccan Days, Or, Hindoo Fairy Tales Current in Southern India, a compilation of folk tales; their father was at the time Governor of Bombay. The book was popular, going into four editions between first publication in 1868 and 1889. In the Preface to the Cookery Book she denies "the special knowledge of cookery with which Sir John so kindly credits me", but admits she has always been interested in the "study", and that she had seen "two other cookery books through the press for my friend the late Miss Hilda Duckett": these were Hilda's Where is it? of Recipes (1899) and Hilda's Diary of a Cape Housekeeper (1902), both published by Chapman and Hall; but Frere's name had not appeared on their title pages.

Book

Structure

The first edition is of xviii + 584 pages. It is divided into sections as follows, starting immediately after the Table of Contents with no preamble:

  • Baking powder, Barm and Yeast
  • Beverages
  • Bread, Grissini, Porridge and Rolls
  • Cakes, &c.
  • Cheeses and cheese dishes
  • Confectionery
  • Curries
  • Domestic Recipes
  • Eggs
  • Fish
  • Fish Pies and Puddings
  • Fish, Game, Meat and Savoury Creams
  • Game
  • Invalid Cookery
  • Jams, Jellies, Marmalades, Fruit Syrups, &c.
  • Meat
  • Meat Jellies
  • Meat Pies, Puddings and Soufflés
  • Melted Butters, Butter Sauces and Savoury Butters
  • Omelets
  • Paste and Pastry
  • Poultry
  • Preserved Fruits
  • Roux, Browning and Glaze
  • Sauces for Fish
  • Sauces for Meat
  • Sauces for Poultry and Game
  • Sauces for Vegetables
  • Soups and Broths
  • Stuffings
  • Sweet Dishes
  • Sweet Puddings
  • Sweet Sauces
  • Vegetables

There are no illustrations.

There is an Appendix, under Frere's name, with sections summarized from the RSPCA on how "To spare animals unnecessary pain" and "Bad meat" (which gives advice on the best ways to kill rabbits and birds). The index runs to 31 pages in two columns of small type.

Approach

Tillypronie Timbale
Recipe for "Timbale a la Reginald" (on page 273), attributed to a Mrs. Stubbington, 1888

Each recipe is presented quite plainly, with a title which is numbered if there is more than one recipe for a given dish. There is no list of ingredients: each recipe begins at once, as for instance "Pound the slightly scalded fish, pound also 1/2 lb. of suet shred very fine, and 2 ozs. of stale bread-crumbs, and 1 egg well beaten." Many recipes have a named source, sometimes with a date, as in "Rhubarb Jam. (Mrs. Davidson, Coldstone Manse. 1886.)"

Some of Lady Clark's recipes are very brief, forming little more than notes to herself, as in her

Vegetable Marrow. No. 3. Stuffed—Turin. 'Cousses'.

The Turin vegetable marrows are small and short—perhaps 2 inches long; they are stuffed with forcemeat, and served in a thick sauce.

They come as a 'frittura' after the soup, and are sometimes called 'Zucchetti à la Piedmontaise.'"

It can be seen that instructions, ingredients and comments are intermixed.

The recipes in each section are listed alphabetically. Some entries are cross-references, for example "'Zucchetti à la Milanaise' and 'à la Piedmontaise.' See Vegetable Marrow."

Editions

For most of the twentieth century there was only one edition, that of 1909, published by Constable:

  • Frere, Catherine Frances (editor). (1909) The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie. London: Constable and Company.

This changed in the 1990s:

  • (1994) The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie, with an Introduction by Geraldene Holt. Lewes: Southover.
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