Tom Higgins (rock climber) facts for kids
Thomas John Higgins (born November 7, 1944 – died March 21, 2018) was a famous American rock climber. He was known for being one of the best at climbing without ropes for help, a style called free climbing. He made many "first ascents," meaning he was the first person to climb a route, especially in the western USA. Tom Higgins was known for his "purist" style, which meant he tried to climb using only his hands and feet, without pulling on ropes or gear.
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Tom Higgins: Early Climbing Adventures
Tom Higgins started rock climbing in the early 1960s. He climbed with friends like Bud (who later changed his name to Ivan) Couch and Russ McLean. They practiced on the rocky hills of Stony Point near Los Angeles. Soon, Tom teamed up with his lifelong climbing friend, Bob Kamps.
First Climbs at Tahquitz Rock
In 1963, Tom and Bob made the first free ascent of a route called Blanketty Blank at Tahquitz Rock in Southern California. This was a very hard climb for its time. When they climbed, they used a style now called Traditional climbing. This means they climbed from the bottom up, without practicing the route first. They also placed safety gear as they climbed, instead of setting it up beforehand.
Another important first climb at Tahquitz was Jonah in 1964. Tom climbed this with Mike Cohen and Roy Coats.
Challenging Climbs at Joshua Tree
Near Tahquitz, at a place called Joshua Tree, Tom Higgins also made the first free ascent of Left Ski Track in 1968. This climb was very difficult, rated 5.11, which was unusual for that time. It showed how much he was pushing the limits of climbing.
Climbing in the High Sierra and Europe
Tom Higgins also explored the tall mountains of the High Sierra in California. He made the first ascent of the East Buttress of Agassiz Needle, Temple Crag with Bud Couch. He also climbed the North Face of Mt. Morrison with Charlie Raymond.
International Climbing Trips
In 1964, Tom and Bud Couch traveled to Wales in the United Kingdom. They climbed using borrowed ropes and slings. They even used machine nuts as safety gear because metal pitons (spikes) were not allowed on those cliffs. They also climbed in Chamonix, France. There, Tom teamed up with English climbers to make the first free ascents of routes like the East Face of the Moin.
Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows
In the late 1960s, Tom Higgins began climbing in Yosemite Valley. With Bob Kamps, he made the first free ascent of the NE Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock. With Chris Jones, he did the first free ascent of Serenity Crack. He also made other first ascents in Yosemite, like Punch Bowl and The Peanut. To get better at climbing cracks in Yosemite, he built and practiced on a special wooden crack machine at home.
New Routes in Tuolumne Meadows
In Tuolumne Meadows, which is above Yosemite Valley, Tom Higgins worked with many partners. These included Bob Kamps, Vern Clevenger, and Pat Ament. They created many new climbing routes. They would stand on tiny edges and use special drills to place small bolts for safety. Many of these routes are still popular today, such as Lucky Streaks and The Vision.
Tom Higgins even wrote an introduction for a climbing guidebook about Tuolumne Meadows. In it, he talked about how new routes were developed and how climbing styles were changing.
Climbing Style Changes
As the 1970s ended, climbing styles started to change. Some climbers began to use hooks or rappel ropes to help them place safety gear. They would also rest on ropes to make progress. Tom Higgins wrote an article called "Tricksters and Traditionalists" for a magazine called Ascent. In this article, he talked about these changing styles.
His article helped define the term traditional climbing. This term describes the climbing style that was common before the mid-1970s. Today, "traditional climbing" is a well-known way of climbing, different from "Sport climbing".
Later Climbs and Legacy
In the 1980s, Tom Higgins continued to make first ascents and first free ascents. He climbed at Pinnacles National Monument (now Pinnacles National Park) and in the Southern High Sierra mountains in California. At Pinnacles, he climbed Shake and Bake with Chris Vandiver. He also made the first free ascent of Resurrection Wall with Frank Sarnquist.
In the Southern Sierra, he found new routes on Fresno Dome with Ruprecht Von Kammerlander. He also climbed on Chiquito Dome, where he did routes like Elegance and Sahib with Chris Vandiver.
Tom Higgins kept a website where he shared stories and pictures about climbing history. He also wrote about climbing styles. He passed away on March 21, 2018, at the age of 73.
