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Ashima Shiraishi
Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Shiraishi (BT0A2525)-3.jpg
Shiraishi at the Climbing World Championships 2018
Personal information
Born (2001-04-03) April 3, 2001 (age 24)
New York City, U.S.
Occupation Student, rock climber, sport climber
Height 154 cm
Climbing career
Type of climber Bouldering, Lead climbing
Highest grade
  • Redpoint: 5.14d/5.15a (9a/+) 
  • Bouldering: V15 (8C)
Known for Youngest person to climb a 5.14d/5.15a (9a/+)  route, and first female to climb a V15 (8C) boulder
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  United States
World Cup
Silver 2017 Xiamen Lead
Updated on October 31, 2017.

Ashima Shiraishi (born April 3, 2001) is an American rock climber. She started climbing at age six in Central Park, New York City. Just a few years later, she became one of the best boulderers and sport climbers in the world.

Ashima has won many international competitions. She also holds records for being the first female and youngest person to complete certain difficult climbs. She has appeared in several short films about climbing.

When she was 13, Ashima became the second female ever to climb a sport route graded 5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+). This is a very challenging level of climbing. In 2016, she was the first female to climb a V15 (8C) boulder problem. This is also an extremely difficult type of climb.

Ashima's Early Life and Climbing Journey

Ashima Shiraishi was born in New York City on April 3, 2001. Her parents, Tsuya and Hisatoshi Shiraishi, moved to New York from Japan in 1978. Her father, Hisatoshi "Poppo" Shiraishi, was a dancer. Ashima grew up in Chelsea, Manhattan.

When Ashima was six years old, her parents took her to Central Park. There, she discovered climbing at a place called Rat Rock. She later practiced at Brooklyn Boulders in Gowanus, Brooklyn.

Starting Competitive Climbing

Ashima began competing in climbing events at age seven in 2008. She worked with a coach named Obe Carrion, who was also a great climber. Their partnership ended in 2012. After that, her father became her main coach.

Amazing Achievements as a Young Climber

At age eight, Ashima climbed a famous boulder problem called Power of Silence (V10). This was in Hueco Tanks, Texas. A boulder problem is a short, difficult climb without ropes.

When she was nine, she climbed Chablanke (V11/12) and Roger in the Shower (V11) in Hueco Tanks. She also completed several other hard boulder problems. At age ten, she climbed Crown of Aragorn (V13). This made her the youngest person ever to climb a V13.

Ashima also became very good at lead climbing. This is a type of climbing where you use ropes and clip into safety points as you go up. In October 2012, at age 11, she climbed Southern Smoke at the Red River Gorge. This sport route was graded 5.14c (8c+). She was the youngest person to climb a route of this difficulty.

In 2013, Ashima continued to do well in both bouldering and lead climbing. She completed a 5.14a route, two more V13 boulders, and two more 5.14c routes. In 2014, she climbed Golden Shadow, which might have been her first V14 boulder. She was the second female climber ever to complete a V14. On the first day of 2015, she climbed The Swarm, another V14 (or V13/V14). She was the first female to reach the top of this problem.

Reaching New Heights

At age 13, Ashima climbed her first 5.14d (9a) route, Open Your Mind Direct R1, in Santa Linya, Spain. This route was thought to be even harder because a climbing hold had broken off.

On the same trip, Ashima climbed Ciudad de Dios. This made her the youngest athlete to climb a 5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+) route. She was also the second female climber to reach this level.

From 2015 to 2017, Ashima won the IFSC World Youth Championships. She won for both Lead and Bouldering in her age group. In March 2016, at 14 years old, she climbed the boulder problem Horizon (8C/V15) in Japan. She was the first female climber and, at the time, the youngest climber to complete a V15. A few months later, she climbed Sleepy Rave, another V15 (or V14) in Australia.

In 2017, Ashima won the USA Climbing Sport & Speed Open National Championships. She also placed second at the USA Climbing Bouldering Nationals. That same year, she started competing in the Climbing World Cup against adult climbers.

In 2020, Ashima wrote a children's book called How To Solve A Problem. She is sponsored by several well-known companies like Evolv, Arc’teryx, and Coca-Cola Japan. In 2021, she began studying neuroscience and environmental science at the University of California, Los Angeles.

Ashima has been called a "bouldering phenom" by The New York Times. The New Yorker even called her the "Gretzky of the granite," comparing her to a legendary athlete.

Competition Results

World Cup

Climbing Type 2017
Lead 8

Climbing World Championships

Youth

Climbing Type 2015
Youth B
2016
Youth B
2017
Youth A
Lead 1st Place 1st Place 1st Place
Bouldering 1st Place 1st Place 1st Place
Speed - - 28th Place
Combined - - 2nd Place

USA Open Championships

Climbing Type 2019
Bouldering 1st Place
Lead 2nd Place

Notable Hard Climbs

Ashima Shiraishi has completed many incredibly difficult climbs. Here are some of her most famous achievements:

Boulder Problems

  • 8C (V15) (V15) - These are some of the hardest boulder problems in the world.

Redpointed Routes

  • 9a or 9a+ (5.14d or 5.15a) - These are among the most difficult sport climbing routes.
    • Ciudad de Dios - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 23, 2015. This was the first time a female climbed this route.
    • Open Your Mind Direct R1 - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 17, 2015. This was also the first time a female climbed this route.
  • 8c+ (5.14c) (5.14c)
    • Southern Smoke - Red River Gorge (USA) - September 2012
    • Lucifer - Red River Gorge (USA) - September 2012
    • La Fabela - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 2014. First female ascent.

See also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Ashima Shiraishi para niños

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