Mount Arapiles facts for kids
Quick facts for kids Mount Arapiles(Djurid) |
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| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 370 metres (1,210 ft) AHD |
| Prominence | ~140 metres (460 ft) AHD |
| Geography | |
 Mount Arapiles
(Djurid) Location in Victoria
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| Location | Wimmera region, Victoria, Australia |
| Geology | |
| Mountain type | metamorphic sandstone (quartzite) |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | the first recorded ascent by a European 23 July 1836 by Thomas Mitchell |
| Easiest route | Hike/drive |
Mount Arapiles, also known as Djurid by the local Indigenous people, is a large rock formation in western Victoria, Australia. It stands about 140 meters (460 feet) tall, rising above the flat plains of the Wimmera region. You can find it about 10 kilometers (6 miles) west of the town of Natimuk.
This amazing place is part of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park and is super popular for rock climbing. Climbers love it because there are so many different routes, and the rock quality is excellent. It's considered one of Australia's top climbing spots, along with the nearby Grampians.
Contents
History of Mount Arapiles
Early History and Indigenous People
For thousands of years before Europeans arrived, the Djurid Baluk clan of the Wotjobaluk people lived near Mount Arapiles. They used the mountain's strong sandstone to make tools and found shelter in its many small caves and rocky areas.
When European settlers came in the mid-1840s, the Djurid Baluk people were forced to leave their lands. This led to their clan breaking apart. They lost access to the mountain's resources, faced new diseases, and sometimes had conflicts with the settlers. By the early 1870s, the last of the Djurid Baluk people had been moved to special mission stations. Today, some of their descendants still live in the area.
Many ancient sites have been found around Mount Arapiles. In 1992, a study found 42 Aboriginal sites, including places where they collected stone for tools, trees with special marks, and rock art.
European Exploration
The first European to climb Mount Arapiles was Major Thomas Mitchell on July 23, 1836. He named the mountain after the Arapiles hills in Spain, where he had fought in a battle.
Mitchell wrote in his diary on July 22, 1836:
"This certainly was a remarkable portion of the earth's surface, and rather resembled that of the moon as seen through a telescope."
There's a special plaque on "Plaque Rock" near the campgrounds that remembers his visit.
Geology: What is Mount Arapiles Made Of?
Mount Arapiles is mostly made of a very hard rock called quartzite. This rock started out as sand and pebbles that were laid down by ancient rivers about 420 million years ago. Over time, these layers of sand and pebbles turned into sandstone.
About 400 million years ago, hot, melted rock (magma) pushed its way up from deep inside the Earth, right under the sandstone. This magma heated the sandstone, causing it to change into the super-hard quartzite we see today. This process is called contact metamorphism.
While the softer rocks around Mount Arapiles wore away over millions of years, the hard quartzite mountain remained. The mountain also has a distinct red or orange color because of tiny amounts of iron in the rock.
Rock Climbing at Mount Arapiles
Even though you can hike to the top of Mount Arapiles, most people who visit choose to free climb its many vertical routes. Free climbing means using only your hands and feet to move up the rock, with ropes and gear just for safety. There are thousands of climbing routes here!
History of Climbing
People first started climbing Mount Arapiles for fun in September 1963. Brothers Bob and Steve Craddock visited a smaller rock nearby and then saw the huge Mount Arapiles. After a few weeks, they finally tried climbing it in November 1963 on "The Pinnacle Face." They and their friends created the first climbing routes. Soon after, in 1964, Steve Craddock and his dad, Bob, made the very first climbing guidebook for Arapiles, listing 15 routes.
In March 1965, two famous climbs, The Bard and Watchtower Crack, were created. These are still popular today! More and more climbs were added, and in 1966, a second guidebook was released with 108 routes.
In the early 1970s, climbing slowed down at Arapiles as people explored other areas. But interest came back in late 1973. Then, in 1975, an American climber named "Hot" Henry Barber visited. He was amazing at free climbing difficult routes with very little safety gear. His visit changed Australian climbing, inspiring local climbers to try harder and free climb more routes.
Barber's achievements attracted a new group of young climbers called "The New Wave." Through the late 70s and early 80s, they created many challenging routes. Some climbers, like Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, and Mark Moorhead, even made their climbs seem easier than they were. This is called "sandbagging" and is a bit of a tradition in Australian climbing.
A huge moment happened in April 1985 when German climber Wolfgang Güllich climbed Punks in the Gym. This route goes straight up a smooth, orange rock face. At the time, it was the hardest climb in the world, making Arapiles famous internationally.
Today, Mount Arapiles is still a very popular climbing spot. People come from all over the world and sometimes stay for months because of the good weather, easy access, and amazing number of climbs.
Climbing Styles and Ethics
Mount Arapiles is mainly known for traditional climbing. This means climbers place their own safety gear (like special nuts and cams) into cracks in the rock as they go up, and then remove it when they finish.
There are also some sport climbing routes at Arapiles. These routes have permanent bolts drilled into the rock for safety. However, most of these sport routes are quite difficult.
It's generally considered wrong to chip or change the rock to make holds easier. This is seen as damaging the natural rock. However, there are a few older routes where this was done before it became against the rules.
Popular Climbing Areas
Here are some of the well-known climbing areas at Mount Arapiles:
- Declaration Crag and Bushranger Bluff
- These are great for beginners and school groups because they have many easier climbs and are in a quiet spot.
- The Organ Pipes
- Popular with all kinds of climbers, from beginners to regulars, because it's close to the campgrounds and has many classic routes.
- Bard Buttress and Tiger Wall
- Tiger Wall is the biggest and most noticeable part of Arapiles. Bard Buttress is a large rock next to it. They have many long climbs that go up multiple sections.
- The Bluffs
- These are two large blocks of rock on top of Tiger Wall. They offer many classic climbs that end with a satisfying feeling of reaching the top.
- Castle Crag
- A small, separate rock across from Tiger Wall. It's packed with many difficult climbs.
- The Pharos
- Named after an ancient lighthouse, this is a large rock pillar separate from the main mountain. It's home to Punks in the Gym, which was once the hardest climb in the world.
- The Pinnacle Face
- This is where the very first climbs at Arapiles were recorded. It also has Tiptoe Ridge, a famous multi-pitch adventure.
- The Watchtower Faces
- These are rocky slabs on either side of the Watchtower, a rough section of rock that has broken away from the mountain. Watchtower Crack is a famous climb that follows the crack between the Watchtower and the rock face.
- The Northern Group
- This area has several notable cliffs, including Henry Bolte Wall (a sport climbing area) and Kachoong Cliffs, which features Kachoong, a famous overhanging climb that is great for photos.
- Mitre Rock
- A separate rock outcrop north of Arapiles. It has many excellent easier routes and is a popular spot for day trips, especially on busy weekends.
Climbing Guide Updates
New climbing routes are still being added to Mount Arapiles, though not as quickly as before. Since 2009, updates have been recorded for new or changed routes. In 2011, the climbing guidebook became available on smartphones and tablets.
Bouldering
There are also many bouldering areas around Arapiles for all skill levels. Bouldering is climbing on smaller rocks or low parts of cliffs without ropes, usually with crash pads for safety. Two popular bouldering spots near the camp are the Krondorf Area and the Golden Streak Area. Climbers often gather there in the late afternoon after a day of climbing.
Camping
Centenary Park is a campground located on the east side of Mount Arapiles. You can get there from Centenary Park Road, and there's a fee to stay. There are no powered sites, and campfires are only allowed between May and October. The campground has a toilet block with flush toilets.
