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Sir Robert Charles Evans
Charles Evans (Mountaineer).jpeg
Evans in 1953
Born (1918-10-19)19 October 1918
Died 5 December 1995(1995-12-05) (aged 77)
Occupation Surgeon, university principal

Sir Robert Charles Evans (born October 19, 1918 – died December 5, 1995) was a famous British mountaineer. He was also a talented surgeon and a respected educator. He is best known for his important roles in two major climbing expeditions. He led the successful 1955 expedition to Kangchenjunga, the world's third-highest mountain. He was also the second-in-command for the famous 1953 Mount Everest expedition.

Early Life and Education

Robert Charles Evans was born in Liverpool, England. He grew up in Derwen, a village in Wales, United Kingdom. He learned to speak Welsh first and did not speak English until he started school. He went to Shrewsbury School and then studied medicine at University College, Oxford. In 1942, he became a medical doctor. He then joined the Royal Army Medical Corps during World War II.

A Life of Climbing

Before the war, Evans had already climbed many difficult routes in the Alps. He used this experience during his travels in the Sikkim and Himalaya regions. After leaving the army in 1947, he worked as a surgeon in Liverpool.

Evans was part of Eric Shipton's 1952 expedition to Cho Oyu. This trip helped climbers prepare for the bigger challenge of Everest. The next year, Evans became the deputy leader for John Hunt on the 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition. This expedition made the first ascent of Mount Everest.

Evans and his climbing partner, Tom Bourdillon, were the first team to try for the summit. On May 26, 1953, they reached the South Summit of Everest. They got very close to the main summit, only about 300 feet away. However, they had to turn back. They were very tired, did not have enough oxygen for the return trip, and their oxygen equipment was not working well.

Three days later, on May 29, 1953, their teammates Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit. They became the first people to stand on top of Mount Everest.

Leading the Way to Kangchenjunga

In 1955, Sir Charles Evans led his own successful expedition. His team made the first ascent of Kangchenjunga, the world's third-highest peak. This was a huge achievement in mountaineering. The next year, he received the Royal Geographical Society's Patron's Medal. This award recognized his important contributions to geography and exploration.

Later Career and Honors

From 1958 to 1984, Evans was the Principal of the University College of North Wales. This university is now known as Bangor University. He also served as the President of the Alpine Club from 1967 to 1970. The Alpine Club is a very old and respected climbing club.

In 1969, he was given the title of "Sir." This knighthood was awarded for his great services to mountaineering. It happened during the special ceremony for the investiture of the Prince of Wales.

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