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Mount Huntington (Alaska) facts for kids

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Mount Huntington
Mount Huntington from airplane.jpg
Highest point
Elevation 12,241 ft (3,731 m)
Prominence 2,890 ft (880 m)
Geography
Mount Huntington is located in Alaska
Mount Huntington
Mount Huntington
Location in Alaska
Location Denali National Park and Preserve, Matanuska-Susitna Borough, Alaska, U.S.
Parent range Central Alaska Range
Topo map USGS Talkeetna D-2
Climbing
First ascent 25 May 1964 by Jacques Batkin and Sylvain Sarthou
Easiest route rock/snow/ice climb

Mount Huntington is an amazing mountain in the middle of the Alaska Range. It looks like a sharp pyramid made of rock and ice. This mountain is about 8 miles (13 km) southeast of Denali, which is North America's tallest peak. Mount Huntington is also near Mount Hunter and The Rooster Comb.

Even though Denali is much taller, Mount Huntington is very steep. Its sides drop more than 5,000 feet (1,500 meters) in about a mile. Climbing Mount Huntington is much harder than climbing Denali. It is a favorite mountain for skilled climbers who like a big challenge.

Exploring Mount Huntington

Mount Huntington was first climbed in 1964. A French team led by a famous climber named Lionel Terray made this first ascent. They climbed up the Northwest Ridge, which is now called the French Ridge.

The second time someone climbed Mount Huntington was the next year. This climb was done using the West Face/West Rib route. A book called The Mountain of My Fear by David Roberts tells the story of this climb.

How to Reach the Mountain

You can get to Mount Huntington from two main directions. On the north side, climbers use the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier. On the south side, they use the Tokositna Glacier. Both glaciers are large rivers of ice.

Mount Huntington aerial view
Mount Huntington from above

Famous Climbs on Mount Huntington

Many expert climbers have made their mark on Mount Huntington. Each climb often opens a new, difficult path to the top. These climbs are known for being very challenging.

  • 1964: French Ridge

* This was the first time anyone reached the summit. * The team was led by Lionel Terray.

  • 1965: Harvard Route

* This route was very difficult, with rock, ice, and steep sections. * It was climbed by David Roberts and his team.

  • 1978: North Face

* Jack Roberts and Simon McCartney reached the top on July 6, 1978.

  • 1978: Southeast Spur

* Joseph Kaelin and his team summited on July 9, 1978.

  • 1980: The British Route

* Roger Mear and Steve Bell completed this climb on May 16, 1980.

  • 1981: Colton-Leach Route

* Nick Colton and Tim Leach made this ascent.

  • 2017: Gauntlet Ridge

* Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley spent five days on this route. * They even slept on the summit for two nights!

Mount Huntington aerial
Mount Huntington from the air
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