Lionel Terray facts for kids

Terray's grave in Chamonix

Lionel Terray (born July 25, 1921 – died September 19, 1965) was a famous French climber. He was known for being one of the best climbers of his time. He made many first ascents, meaning he was the first person to successfully climb certain mountains or routes.

Some of his most famous first ascents include Makalu in the Himalaya mountains (with Jean Couzy in 1955). He also made the first ascent of Cerro Fitz Roy in the Patagonian Andes (with Guido Magnone in 1952).

Early Life and Climbing Skills

Lionel Terray worked as a climbing guide and a ski instructor. During World War II, he was involved in mountain combat against Germany.

After the war, he became very well known. He was considered one of the top climbers and guides in Chamonix, France. People admired him for how quickly he climbed difficult routes. These included famous climbs in the French, Italian, and Swiss Alps. Some of these were the Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses and the north face of the Eiger. Terray often climbed with his partner Louis Lachenal. Together, they broke many speed records in climbing.

The Annapurna Expedition

Terray was part of Maurice Herzog's 1950 expedition to Annapurna. This mountain is in the Himalaya range in Nepal. At the time, Annapurna was the highest mountain ever climbed. It was also the first 8,000-meter peak to be successfully climbed.

Terray did not reach the very top of Annapurna. However, he played a very important role. He helped the climbers who reached the summit, Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, get back down the mountain. Both Herzog and Lachenal were badly injured by the cold. They needed a lot of help to survive.

Even with these challenges, the French team was celebrated when they returned to Paris. Herzog's book about the expedition, Annapurna, became a worldwide bestseller.

Eiger Ascents and Rescues

In 1947, Lionel Terray made the second successful climb of the North Face of the Eiger. He did this with his climbing partner, Louis Lachenal.

Terray was also a key person in a big rescue mission in 1957. Four climbers were stuck on the north face of the Eiger. Terray showed great skill and bravery during this rescue. His actions are specially mentioned in the 1962 book The Climb Up To Hell by Jack Olsen.

First Ascents Around the World

In the late 1950s and early 1960s, Terray achieved many first ascents in Peru. One of these was Huantsan, which was the highest unclimbed peak in the central Andes at that time. He also made first ascents of other challenging peaks. These included Willka Wiqi, Soray, Tawllirahu, and Chakrarahu/Chacraraju. Chakrarahu was thought to be unclimbable at the time.

One of Terray's greatest achievements was the first ascent of Jannu in Nepal in 1962. He also climbed the Nilgiris mountains near Annapurna. In 1964, he led the first successful climb of Mount Huntington in the Alaska Range.

Mont Blanc Rescue Incident

In December 1956, Terray organized a rescue attempt. Two climbers were stranded on Mont Blanc. The Chamonix Guide's Association refused to help. They believed the rescue was too risky for the rescuers.

Because no other guides would go, Terray put together a small team of amateur climbers. They had to turn back due to bad weather. Terray was very critical of the Chamonix Guide Association for not acting sooner.

Later Life and Legacy

Lionel Terray sadly died from a fall while climbing in the Vercors Plateau in 1965. This happened a few years after he published his climbing book, Conquistadors of the Useless. Some people wondered if he truly wrote the book himself. However, it was later confirmed that he wrote the entire manuscript in his own handwriting.

His grave is in Chamonix, France. A traffic circle in Chamonix is named after him to honor his memory.

Principal Expeditions

Here are some of Lionel Terray's most important expeditions:

• 1942 - First ascent of the west side of Aiguille Purtcheller.
• 1944 - First ascent to the east-northeast spur of the Pain de Sucre. Also, the first on the north face of the fr:Aiguille des Pélerins and the north of the Peuterey lap with Maurice Herzog.
• 1946 - Climbed the north spur of the Droites in eight hours with Louis Lachenal. Also, the north face of Grandes Jorasses.
• 1947 - Third ascent of the north face of Aiguille Verte. Second to climb the northern face of the Eiger with Lachenal.
• 1950 - Part of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition. This was the first time an 8,000-meter mountain was successfully climbed. Terray helped with the rescue.
• 1952 - First ascent of Fitz Roy (3,405m) in Patagonia. Also climbed Aconcagua (6,960m).
• 1954 - Explored Makalu in Tibet. Made first ascents of smaller peaks like Kangchungtse and Chomo Lonzo (7,804m).
• 1955 - Led the 1955 French Makalu expedition. Made the first summit of Makalu (8,485m) with Jean Couzy.
• 1956 - In Peru, climbed Nevado Chacraraju (6,110m) and Taulliraju (5,830m).
• 1959 - Expedition to Jannu, reaching 7,400m. In 1962, under Terray's leadership, the summit was reached.
• 1962 - First ascent of Jannu in Nepal.
• 1964 - In the Alaskan range, made the first ascent of Mount Huntington (3,731m).

See also

In Spanish: Lionel Terray para niños