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Dalgarnock
Dalgarnock burial ground, Martyrs Cross, Dumfries & Galloway, Scotland.jpg
Dalgarnock Churchyard entrance and Martyrs Cross
Dalgarnock is located in Dumfries and Galloway
Dalgarnock
Dalgarnock
OS grid reference NX878936
Council area
Lieutenancy area
Country Scotland
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Post town Thornhill
Postcode district DG3
Police Dumfries and Galloway
Fire Dumfries and Galloway
Ambulance Scottish
EU Parliament Scotland
UK Parliament
  • Dumfriesshire, Clydesdale and Tweeddale
Scottish Parliament
  • Dumfriesshire
List of places
UK
Scotland
55°13′27″N 3°45′53″W / 55.2242°N 3.7646°W / 55.2242; -3.7646

Dalgarnock was once a busy village and ancient parish in Scotland. It was located in the Nithsdale area of Dumfries and Galloway, south of Sanquhar and north of Dumfries. The village was a "burgh of regality," meaning it had special rights from the king. It was known for its popular market fairs, which were held from medieval times until 1601.

The Earl of Queensberry moved these markets to Thornhill. This event was even mentioned in a song by the famous poet Robert Burns. After the markets moved, Dalgarnock slowly disappeared. Today, only a quiet churchyard remains where the busy village once stood.

Discovering Dalgarnock's Past

Rosebank Cottage, Dalgarnock, Dumfries & Galloway, Scotland
The old Rosebank Cottage stands nearby.

By the 1790s, no houses were left in Dalgarnock. But people in the 1950s still knew where the village had been. You could even see some signs of it east of the churchyard.

A path used to cross the River Nith from Dalgarnock towards Keir Mill. This path was no longer used by 1899. The nearby town of Thornhill was first called 'New Dalgarnock'. It was built in 1717 on the Earl of Queensberry's land. Thornhill was on the main road connecting Dumfries to Glasgow.

The Old Church and Churchyard

The Dalgarnock church was about a mile south of Thornhill. It was named after St Michael. The church was given to Holyrood Abbey by Edgar, a local chief, around the time of King David I (who died in 1153). The monks of Holyrood Abbey owned the church until the Reformation.

In 1296, a person named Andrew was the vicar (a type of priest) of Dalgarnock. He had to ask the Sheriff of Dumfries to return the church to him. The church's ownership was confirmed by bishops and even the Pope. After the Reformation, the church's income helped support Edinburgh Castle.

The Dalgarnock church was joined with Closeburn parish in 1606. It stopped being used in the 18th century. All church services moved to Closeburn. The old church building has completely disappeared. Its stones were used to build walls and nearby houses. Only the church font (a basin for holy water) survived. It was kept in Closeburn Church and later returned to Dalgarnock churchyard.

The churchyard is a special historical site. It has many gravestones from the 1600s and 1700s. There is also a memorial for the Covenanter martyrs from the Nithsdale area. One old grave is from 1694 and shows the village name as Dalgarnock. Burials were still happening here in the 1850s.

A very unusual grave belongs to John Nivison, a surgeon who died in 1732. His gravestone has a carving of a figure with arms that look like a Green Man. This figure is a symbol of rebirth in some old beliefs.

What Old Maps Show

Old maps help us understand Dalgarnock's history. Timothy Pont's map from 1583-96 clearly shows the 'Kirk of Dalgairnock'. In 1654 and 1732, maps still marked the 'Kirk of Daloairnock'. But by 1747, neither the church nor the village was shown on maps. In 1804, 'Dalgarno' was shown with two buildings, but no church.

St Ninian's Well

There is a small well called St Ninian's Well (or St Michael's Well) near the churchyard. It was filled in 1857 but later reopened. In 1975, it was visible with some stones around it. The well was known for its good, cool water. Today, it is hard to see because it is hidden by plants.

The Covenanters' Story

Dalgarnock burial ground, old font, Dumfries & Galloway, Scotland
The old font, Dalgarnock Churchyard

The Covenanters were a group of Scottish Presbyterians who fought for their religious freedom in the 1600s. Claverhouse, also known as 'Bloody Clavers', was a leader who hunted Covenanters.

A famous story tells of the Covenanter John Porter and Agnes Milligan. Their wedding at Dalgarnock was interrupted by 'Cruel Lag', a known persecutor of Covenanters. John tried to escape across the flooded River Nith using stilts. But he fell into the water. Agnes bravely dived in to save him. People say they were found drowned, holding each other. The spot is still called Porter's Hole.

Many Covenanters from Dalgarnock faced hardship. In May 1684, several local people were declared "Outlaws and Fugitives." These included Alexander Nivison, Robert Dalziel, James Gilkerse, and John Gilkerse.

A tall, white stone cross, called the 'Martyrs Cross', stands in the Dalgarnock churchyard. It was put up in 1925 to remember 57 Nithsdale Covenanters (54 men and 3 women) who died for their faith. A small stone from Australian supporters is also in front of the cross.

The cross lists the names of many martyrs, including:

George Allan, Penpont
James Bennoch, Ingliston 1685
William Brown, Sanquhar
John Corsan, New Jersey 1685
James Colvin, Scarvating 1679
Geo. Corson, New Cumnock 1685
Thomas Dinwiddie, Bothwell 1679
Robert Edgar, Ingliston 1685
Andrew Ferguson, Glasgow 1685
Elizabeth Hunter Ferguson, Holland
Robt. Ferguson, Bothwell 1679
Robt. Ferguson, Auchencloy 1684
M(rs) Jas. Forsyth, Dunnottar 1685
John Gibson, Ingliston 1685
Jas. Glover, Edin. tolbooth 1685
Edward Gordon, Irongray 1685
Margaret Gracie, Penpont
Robert Grierson, Ingliston 1685<
William Grierson, Dumfries 1667
John Hair, New Cumnock 1685
Thos. Harkness, Grassmarket 1684
William Heron, Lochenkit 1685
Andrew Hunter, Dumfries Prison
Elizabeth Hunter
William Hunter, Kirkcudbright 1684
John Johnstone, Bothwell 1679
John Kennedy
James Kirko, Dumfries 1685
John McCall, Bothwell Brig 1679
Alexr McCubine, Irongray 1685
Thomas McGirr, Bothwell 1679
David Mckervail
John McClamroes, Bothwell 1679
And. McLellan, Pitlochy’s ship 1685
Daniel McMichael, Dalveen 1683
James McMichael, Auchencloy 1684
Robert Milligan, Scarvating 1679
Robert Mitchell, Ingliston 1685
Robert Morris, Sanquhar
John Muirhead, Leith prison 1685
James Muncie, Edinburgh Prison
John Mundell, Edin. tolbooth 1685
Rev. James Renwick, Grassmarket 1685
John Renwick
James Robson, Bothwell 1679
Thos Rosper, Scarvating 1679
Robt. Sitlington, Bothwell 1679
Thos. Sitlington, Pitlochy’s ship 1685
James Smith, Bothwell 1679
Robert Smith, Kirkcudbright 1684
William Smith, Moniaive 1685
John Stot, Dunnottar 1685
William Welsh, Dumfries 1667
Andrew Wallet, Scarvating 1679

James Harkness was a farmer who led the 'Enterkin Raid' in 1684. He and 40 Covenanters rescued seven prisoners from Claverhouse's soldiers. James was captured but escaped to Ulster. His brother Thomas was hanged in Edinburgh. The Harkness family was known for their strong Covenanter beliefs.

James Harkness's memorial stone tells his story:

Here lyes the body of James
Harkness in Locherben who
died 6th Dec. 1723 aged 72 years
Bel o this stone his dust doth ly
who in dured 28 years
porsecuti on by tiranny
:Did him persue with echo & cry
through many a lonsome place
at last by Clavers he was tane
Sentenced for to dy
But God who for his soul took care
did him from prison bring
Because no other cause they had
But that he could not give up
With Christ his Glorious king,
and swear alligence to that beast
the duke of york, i mean.
In spite of all there hellish rage
a naturel death he died
in full asurance of his rest
with Christ eternally

Remembering the Covenanters

In 1925, a special outdoor church service called a "Conventicle" was held at Dalgarnock churchyard. It was to honor the Covenanters. Money was raised to build the Martyrs Cross and fix up the churchyard.

Another Conventicle was held in 1928 to officially reveal and dedicate the Martyrs Cross. Many people attended, including a large choir and a military band. Descendants of the martyrs, like the Harkness family, were also there. A further conventicle was held in 2013.

Robert Burns and Dalgarnock

The famous Scottish poet Robert Burns mentioned Dalgarnock in his 1795 song "Last May a Braw Wooer." In the song, a lady talks about a man who moved his attention to her cousin after she played hard to get. Burns lived at Ellisland Farm nearby and saw Dalgarnock as a romantic place by the River Nith.

Here are some lines from the song:

"But a' the neist week, as I fretted wi' care,
I gaed to the tryst o' Dalgarnock;
And wha but my fine fickle lover was there!
I glowr'd as I'd seen a warlock, a warlock;
I glowr'd as I'd seen a warlock."

"But owre my left shouther I gae him a blink,
Lest neibours might say I was saucy;
My wooer he caper'd as he'd been in drink,
And vow'd I was his dear lassie, dear lassie,
And vow'd I was his dear lassie."
. . . . . . . . . . "He begged, for Gudesake! I wad be his wife,
Or else I wad kill him wi'sorrow:
Soe'en to preserve the poor body in life,
I think I maun wed him to-morrow, to-morrow;
I think I main wed him to-morrow."

Understanding the Name Dalgarnock

The name Dalgarnock has several possible meanings. It might come from the Scots Gaelic dail gearr enoc, meaning 'field with the short hill'. Another idea is 'Holm of the cry' from Dail gair, referring to the sound of the River Nith. Some think it comes from Old Norman French De la garnoca, meaning 'a large enclosure for cattle'. This makes sense because of the old cattle fairs held here. Many local places still use parts of the name, like Kirkbog and Over Dalgarnock.

Archaeological Finds in Dalgarnock

Dalgarnock burial ground entrance with old cross socket, Dumfries & Galloway, Scotland
Old church cross base.

Near Rosebank, archaeologists found a circular shape on the ground. This is a "round barrow," an ancient burial mound. It has a central pit and a ditch around it. Possible Roman road quarry pits have also been found nearby.

A stone circle once stood at Templeland, but only one stone remains today. The Ordnance Survey map shows Gallows Hill near the Cample Water. This might have been where the local court met and where punishments took place long ago.

The Buchanites: A Strange Religious Group

In the 1780s, a very unusual religious group called the Buchanites lived near Dalgarnock. Their leader was Elspeth Buchan. They built a home called 'Buchan Ha' at New Cample farm.

Around 1785, all 46 of her followers gathered on a wooden platform they built on Templand Hill. They hoped to fly up to heaven with their leader, Luckie Buchan. They had even shaved their hair, leaving a tuft for angels to pull them up! The platform collapsed, and the Buchanites soon moved to a new home.

The McMilligan of Dalgarnock Ghost Story

At Tynron, there's a landmark called Tynron Doon. People say the ghost of a headless horseman rides a black horse there. The legend tells of a young gentleman from the M'Milligan family of Dalgarnock. He went to visit the daughter of the Laird of Tynron Castle. But one of her brothers didn't like him.

They argued, and the young man rode off in anger. He took the wrong path and galloped over the steepest part of the hill, breaking his neck. Because he died with angry words on his lips, his spirit is said to be trapped and unable to rest.

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