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Mount Kennedy
Mt. Kennedy from air to north..jpg
Mount Kennedy (left) from the air to the north, with the summits of Mts. Hubbard and Alverstone showing.
Highest point
Elevation 4,250-4,300 metres (~14,000 feet)
Prominence 390 m (1,280 ft)
Geography
Mount Kennedy is located in Yukon
Mount Kennedy
Mount Kennedy
Location in Yukon
Parent range Saint Elias Mountains
Topo map NTS 115B/07
Climbing
First ascent 1965
Easiest route glacier/snow/ice climb

Mount Kennedy is a tall mountain peak located in the Saint Elias Mountains. You can find it in Kluane National Park in Yukon, Canada. This impressive mountain stands between 4,250 and 4,300 meters (about 14,000 feet) high. Its summit is less than 10 kilometers away from the border of Southeast Alaska. The Dusty Glacier lies right next to its northern side.

The Canadian government decided to name this peak in honor of U.S. President John F. Kennedy. This happened almost a year after he passed away. On November 20, 1964, Canada's prime minister, Lester B. Pearson, announced the name. He said that a mountain was a perfect way to remember President Kennedy. He called Mount Kennedy a "graceful, towering, unencumbered peak" that showed "aspiration and upward reach." At that time, it was the highest mountain in North America that no one had ever climbed before.

Mt. Kennedy from Lowell Glacier to north.
Mount Kennedy seen from the Lowell Glacier to the north.
Mt. Kennedy from south.
Mount Kennedy from the south.

Who First Climbed Mount Kennedy?

The very first time someone climbed Mount Kennedy was in 1965. This historic climb was led by Jim Whittaker, a famous mountaineer. The team was sponsored by the National Geographic Society. One of the climbers was Robert F. Kennedy, who was President John F. Kennedy's brother.

When Robert F. Kennedy reached the top, he left some special items there. These included tie clips from his brother's PT-boat, a copy of his brother's speech, and a special medallion. Today, the route they took is considered a regular climb for experienced glacier travelers. It doesn't have many difficult technical parts. However, climbers still need to be careful of deep cracks in the ice called crevasses and avoid snow slides (avalanches).

Other Climbing Routes on Mount Kennedy

Since the first climb, other ways to reach the summit have been discovered. One of these is the challenging North Buttress route. It was first climbed in 1968. Back then, climbers used a method called "siege tactics." This meant they would set up fixed ropes and return to a base camp often. Later, in 2001, climbers completed this route in "alpine style." This means they climbed continuously from the bottom to the top without using fixed ropes.

The First Climbing Team

Here are the people who were part of the first team to climb Mount Kennedy:

  • Jim Whittaker (born 1929)
  • Robert F. Kennedy (1925–1968)
  • George R. Senner (1922–2003)
  • Dee Molenaar (1918–2020)
  • Bill Prater (1926–2010)
  • Barry Prather (1940–1987)
  • James Adam Craig (1924-2011) (He was the only Canadian on this trip)
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