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Topkapı Palace
Turkish: Topkapı Sarayı
Ottoman Turkish: طوپقپو سرايى
Topkapı - 01.jpg
A view of Topkapı Palace from the Golden Horn
General information
Type
  • Royal residence (1478–1853)
  • Accommodation for ranked officers (1853–1924)
  • Museum (1924–present)
Architectural style Ottoman, Baroque
Location Istanbul, Turkey
Coordinates 41°0′46.8″N 28°59′2.4″E / 41.013000°N 28.984000°E / 41.013000; 28.984000
Construction started 1459
Completed 1465
Client Ottoman sultans
Owner Turkish state
Technical details
Structural system Various low buildings surrounding courtyards, pavilions and gardens
Size 59,260 to 70,000 m2 (637,900 to 753,500 sq ft)
Design and construction
Architect Mehmed II, Alaüddin, Davud Ağa, Mimar Sinan, Sarkis Balyan

The Topkapı Palace (Turkish: Topkapı Sarayı; Ottoman Turkish: طوپقپو سرايى, romanized: ṭopḳapu sarāyı, lit.'cannon gate palace'), also known as the Seraglio, is a huge museum and library in Istanbul, Turkey. For almost 400 years, from the 1460s to 1856, it was the main home and office for the sultans of the Ottoman Empire.

Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror ordered its building in 1459. This was six years after he conquered Constantinople (now Istanbul). Topkapı was first called the "New Palace" to tell it apart from the "Old Palace." It got its current name, Topkapı, meaning Cannon Gate, in the 1800s. The palace grew over time, with big repairs after an earthquake in 1509 and a fire in 1665.

The palace has four main courtyards and many smaller buildings. The sultan's family lived in the harem. Important government officials, like the Grand Vizier, held meetings in the Imperial Council building.

After the 1600s, Topkapı became less important. Sultans started to prefer newer palaces along the Bosporus. In 1856, Sultan Abdulmejid I moved his court to the new Dolmabahçe Palace. Topkapı still kept some jobs, like holding the royal treasury and library.

When the Ottoman Empire ended in 1923, Topkapı became a museum on April 3, 1924. Today, Turkey's Ministry of Culture and Tourism runs the Topkapı Palace Museum. The palace has hundreds of rooms. Only the most important ones are open to visitors. These include the Ottoman Imperial Harem and the treasury, called hazine. Here you can see famous items like the Spoonmaker's Diamond and the Topkapi Dagger.

The museum also shows off Ottoman clothing, weapons, armor, miniature paintings, religious items, and old books. Turkish soldiers and ministry staff guard the palace. Topkapı Palace is part of the Historic Areas of Istanbul. UNESCO named this group of sites a World Heritage Site in 1985.

Palace Name

Topkapi Palace, Istanbul (52115692887)
Gate of Salutation

The palace was called Saray-i Cedid-i Amire, or "Imperial New Palace," until the 1700s. It got its current name, Topkapı, during the rule of Mahmud I. This happened after a seaside palace called Topkapusu Sâhil Sarâyı was destroyed by fire. Its name was then given to this palace. In Turkish, Topkapı means "Cannon Gate."

Palace History

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Sultan Mehmed II started building the palace around the 1460s.
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Inside the Harem.

The palace sits on Seraglio Point (Sarayburnu). This is a piece of land that looks over the Golden Horn, where the Bosporus Strait meets the Sea of Marmara. The land is hilly, and the palace is on one of the highest spots near the sea. In ancient Greek and Byzantine times, the old city of Byzantion had its main fortress here.

After Sultan Mehmed II took Constantinople in 1453, the old Great Palace of Constantinople was mostly in ruins. The Ottoman court first stayed at the Old Palace. Today, Istanbul University is on that site. Mehmed II ordered the building of Topkapı Palace to start in 1459. A historian from that time said the sultan brought "the very best workmen from everywhere." He wanted to build amazing structures.

Historians disagree on when the main part of the palace was finished. Some say 1459–1465, others say the late 1460s.

Mehmed II planned the basic layout of the palace. His private rooms were at the highest point. Other buildings and gardens spread down the hill towards the Bosphorus. High walls surrounded the whole area. Some of these walls were from the old Byzantine fortress. This layout guided all future changes and additions.

Topkapı Palace looked very different from European, Islamic, or other Eastern palaces. Travelers described it as "irregular" and "asymmetric." Ottomans called it "The Palace of Felicity" (happiness). Daily life was very strict and formal. This kept the sultan separate from the outside world. Silence was important in the inner courtyards. Mehmed II set these rules in his Kanunname Code. This code also set the ranks of court officials and how things were done.

Over time, sultans wanted even more privacy. Architects made sure the sultan and his family had maximum privacy. They used grilled windows and secret passages.

Later sultans made changes, but Mehmed II's basic plan stayed the same. The palace grew a lot between 1520 and 1560. This was during the rule of Suleiman the Magnificent. The Ottoman Empire was expanding fast, and Suleyman wanted his home to show its power. The main architect then was Alaüddin. He also made the Harem bigger.

In 1574, a big fire destroyed the kitchens. Mimar Sinan was asked by Sultan Selim II to rebuild the damaged parts. Sinan fixed and expanded not only the kitchens but also the Harem, baths, and other areas.

By the end of the 1500s, the palace looked much like it does today. It is a large group of low buildings around courtyards. Galleries and passages connect them. Few buildings are taller than two stories. The palace grounds have four main courtyards and the harem. The first courtyard was easy to enter. The fourth courtyard and the harem were the most private. High walls and gates controlled access to these areas.

To the west and south, the palace is next to a large imperial flower park, now called Gülhane Park. Many small summer palaces and other buildings used to be along the shore. They were called the Fifth Courtyard. Most of these are gone now due to neglect and the building of a railway in the 1800s. The only seashore building left is the Basketmakers' Kiosk, built in 1592.

Imperial Gate

Imperial Gate
The Imperial Gate (Bâb-ı Hümâyûn)

The main street to the palace is the old Byzantine Mese avenue. Today it is called Divan Yolu (Council Street). This street was used for royal parades. It leads to the Hagia Sophia and then turns towards the palace square.

The Imperial Gate is the main entrance to the First Courtyard. The sultan would enter the palace through this gate (Turkish: Bâb-ı Hümâyûn, meaning "Royal Gate"). This huge gate, built in 1478, is now covered in marble from the 1800s. Its main arch leads to a high, domed passage. Golden Ottoman writing decorates the top. It has verses from the Qur'an and the special signatures (tughras) of the sultans. The tughras of Mehmed II and Abdulaziz, who fixed the gate, can be seen.

Old papers say there was a wooden apartment above the gate until the late 1800s. It was used by Mehmed. It also stored things from people who died in the palace without family. Sometimes, the ladies of the harem watched special events from here.

First Courtyard

The First Courtyard (I. Avlu or Alay Meydanı) was like a large outer park. It is the biggest of all the palace courtyards. The land sloping towards the sea was already leveled in Byzantine times. Some old buildings in this courtyard are now gone. The ones that remain are the former Imperial Mint (built in 1727), the church of Hagia Irene, and several fountains. The Byzantine church of Hagia Irene was used by the Ottomans as a storage place and weapons room.

This courtyard was also called the Court of the Janissaries or the Parade Court. Court officials and Janissaries would stand along the path in their best clothes. Visitors entering the palace would walk through this courtyard towards the Gate of Salutation and the Second Courtyard.

The large Gate of Salutation, also called the Middle Gate (Turkish: Orta Kapı), leads into the palace's Second Courtyard. This gate has two big, pointed towers. We are not sure when it was built, but the towers look like Byzantine style. An inscription on the door shows it was there by at least 1542. The gate has many religious writings and sultan's signatures. Passing through the gate was strictly controlled. All visitors had to get off their horses. Only the sultan could ride through the gate. This was also a Byzantine tradition.

The Fountain of the Executioner (Cellat Çeşmesi) is where the executioner supposedly washed his hands and sword. It is on the right side when you face the Gate of Salutation from the First Courtyard.

In April 2021, archaeologists found a Roman-era tunnel with three parts. This was during digging under Topkapı Palace, near the Imperial Gate.

Second Courtyard

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Layout of the second courtyard: the gilded door leads to the domed Imperial Council Chamber and in the background is the Tower of Justice
Exterior of the Imperial Council (Topkapi Palace)
Roof of the Imperial Council
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Entrance of the Imperial Council

Through the Middle Gate is the Second Courtyard (II. Avlu), or Divan Square. It was likely finished around 1465. It got its final look around 1525–1529 during Suleyman I's rule. This courtyard is surrounded by the old palace hospital, bakery, Janissary quarters, stables, the imperial harem, and the kitchens. At the end of the courtyard, the Gate of Felicity leads to the Third Courtyard.

Many old Roman and Byzantine items found during recent digs are displayed here. They are in front of the imperial kitchens. A cistern from Byzantine times is under this courtyard. In Ottoman times, this courtyard was full of peacocks and gazelles. It was a meeting place for court members. The Sultan, sitting on a golden throne, would meet people here. Some foreign visitors wrote about these meetings.

The imperial stables (Istabl-ı Âmire) are about five to six meters underground. They were built under Mehmed II and fixed under Suleyman. A large collection of horse gear is kept in the private stables. This area also has a small mosque from the 1700s and a bath.

At the end of the imperial stables are the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses. These halberdiers carried wood to palace rooms and served some palace areas. They wore long tresses to show their high rank. This group started around 1527. The dormitory was built in the 1400s and made bigger in 1587. The dormitories are built around a courtyard, like a traditional Ottoman house. They have baths, a mosque, and fun rooms. Unlike the rest of the palace, these quarters are made of red and green painted wood.

Palace Kitchens and Porcelain

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The palace kitchens with tall chimneys

The palace kitchens (Saray Mutfakları) were built with the palace in the 1400s. They were made bigger during Suleyman the Magnificent's rule. They were like the kitchens of Edirne Palace. After a fire in 1574, Mimar Sinan rebuilt them. The rebuilt kitchens have two rows of 20 wide chimneys, added by Sinan.

The kitchens are on a street between the Second Courtyard and the Marmara Sea. You enter through three doors: the Imperial commissariat door, imperial kitchen door, and confectionery kitchen door. The palace kitchens have 10 domed buildings. These include the Imperial kitchen, kitchens for drinks, a confectionery kitchen, and rooms for cooks. They were the biggest kitchens in the Ottoman Empire. Food was made for about 4,000 people. Over 800 staff worked there. The kitchens also had dorms, baths, and a mosque for staff. Most of these are now gone.

Today, these buildings show kitchen tools and a large collection of porcelain. The Ottomans got Chinese porcelain from the mid-1400s. The collection of 10,700 pieces of

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The palace kitchen section

Chinese porcelain is one of the best in the world. Porcelain often came to the palace from dead people's belongings. It was also given as gifts among the royal family. Records show that by the 1700s, the palace had 16,566 pieces of Chinese porcelain. The Chinese porcelain collection ranges from the late Song Dynasty (960-1279) to the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). It includes celadon and blue and white porcelain. The Japanese collection is mostly Imari porcelain from the 1600s to 1800s. The collection also has about 5,000 European pieces. Experts think Ottoman tastes changed to favor European porcelain by the 1700s.

Imperial Council

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Interior of the Imperial Council
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Interior of the Imperial Council

The Imperial Council (Dîvân-ı Hümâyûn) building was where the Imperial Council met. This council included the Grand Vizier and other ministers. The domed room is called Kubbealtı, meaning "under the dome." The building is in the northwest corner of the courtyard, next to the Gate of Felicity.

The Imperial Council building was first built during Mehmed II's rule. The current building is from Süleyman the Magnificent's time. It was fixed after the Harem fire in 1665. Inscriptions show it was also fixed in 1792 and 1819. The rococo decorations on the outside and inside are from this time.

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Diagram of a tile from the Imperial Council Chamber

There are many ways to enter the council hall. The porch has marble pillars and a fancy wooden ceiling. The outside entrances are in the rococo style, with gilded grills for light. Inside, the building has three main rooms. The main room, Kubbealtı, is decorated with Ottoman Kütahya tiles.

The Sultan or the Valide sultan (Queen Mother) could watch council meetings without being seen. They watched from a window with a golden grill. This window was reached from the nearby Tower of Justice (Adalet Kulesi). The Tower of Justice is very tall and can be seen from the Bosphorus. It was likely built under Mehmed II and made bigger by Suleiman I. Sultan Mahmud II rebuilt the top of the tower in 1825.

Imperial Treasury

III. Mustafa'nın zırhı
The former Imperial Treasury now holds the armor collection.

The building where arms and armor are shown was once a palace treasury. It was called the "outer treasury" because there was another "inner" treasury in the Third Courtyard. It was likely built in the late 1400s during Süleiman I's rule. It has been changed many times. It is a stone and brick hall with eight domes.

This treasury paid for the state's operations. Gifts for viziers, ambassadors, and palace residents were stored here. The Janissaries were paid their wages from this treasury. In 1928, four years after Topkapı Palace became a museum, its collection of arms and armor was put on display here.

During digs in 1937, parts of an old Byzantine religious building were found here. It is now called "the Basilica of the Topkapı Palace."

Outside the treasury is a target stone (Nişan Taşı), over two meters tall. This stone marks a record rifle shot by Selim III in 1790.

Arms Collection

The arms collection (Silah Seksiyonu Sergi Salonu) is one of the richest Islamic arms collections in the world. It has weapons from the 600s to the 1900s. The palace's arms were made by Ottomans, taken from conquests, or given as gifts. Most are Ottoman weapons. But it also has swords from the Umayyad and Abbasid empires. There are also Mamluk and Persian armor, helmets, swords, and axes. A few European and Asian arms are also in the collection. About 400 weapons are currently on display. Most have inscriptions.

Gate of Felicity

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Detail of the Gate of Felicity
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The Gate of Felicity (Bâbüssaâde)

The Gate of Felicity (Bâbüssaâde) is the entrance to the Inner Court (Enderûn). This is also called the Third Courtyard. It marks the line between the inner and outer parts of the palace. The Third Courtyard has the private areas of the palace. The gate has a dome on marble pillars. It shows that the Sultan is present in the palace. No one could pass this gate without the Sultan's permission. Even the Grand Vizier could only pass on certain days.

The gate was probably built under Mehmed II in the 1400s. It was redecorated in the rococo style in 1774 and again during Mahmud II's rule. The gate has Qur'anic verses above the entrance and tuğras. The ceiling is partly painted and has gold leaf. A golden ball hangs from the middle. The sides have baroque decorations and small landscape paintings.

The Sultan used this gate and the Divan Meydanı square only for special events. The Sultan sat here on his Bayram throne during religious holidays and when he became sultan. His subjects and officials would pay their respects. The Sultan's funerals were also held in front of the gate.

On both sides of this passage were the quarters of the eunuchs. These were controlled by the Chief Eunuch of the Sultan's Harem. The palace school's rooms were also here.

A small stone on the ground in front of the gate shows where the banner of Muhammad was displayed. The Grand Vizier or army commander going to war received this banner in a special ceremony.

Third Courtyard

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The Third Courtyard, from the Hünername in 1584

Beyond the Gate of Felicity is the Third Courtyard (III. Avlu). It is also called the Inner Palace (Enderûn Avlusu). This is the heart of the palace. It is a green garden surrounded by the Hall of the Privy Chamber, the treasury, the harem, and the library of Ahmed III.

The Third Courtyard is surrounded by the quarters of the Ağas. These were young men serving the sultan. They learned arts like music, painting, and calligraphy. The best could become high-ranking officials.

Mehmed II planned the layout of the Third Courtyard. Mehmed II did not sleep in the harem. But later sultans became more private and moved to the Fourth Courtyard and the harem.

Audience Chamber

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Arz Odası, the Audience Chamber
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Main entrance to the Audience Chamber, with the small fountain of Suleiman I to the right.

The Audience Chamber, also called the Chamber of Petitions (Arz Odası), is right behind the Gate of Felicity. This square building is an Ottoman kiosk. It has 22 columns supporting a large roof. The building is from the 1400s. The ceiling was painted blue with gold stars. The walls had blue, white, and turquoise tiles. The room was also decorated with rich carpets and pillows. Sultan Ahmed III fixed the chamber in 1723. A fire destroyed it in 1856, and it was rebuilt.

The main throne room is inside the audience chamber. A visitor in 1533 described the Emperor sitting on a golden throne covered in jewels. The walls were covered with mosaics. The fireplace was silver and gold. Water flowed from a fountain in the wall. The current throne was made for Mehmed III. The ceiling of the throne has jewels and patterns of dragons and a mythical bird. The throne has a cover with emeralds, rubies, and pearls.

Inscriptions at the main door, from 1856, praise Sultan Abdülmecid I. The main door has a Muslim blessing, "In the Name of God the Compassionate, the Merciful," from 1723. Tile panels on both sides of the door were added later.

There is a small fountain by the entrance from Suleiman I's time. Persian writings call the sultan "the fountainhead of generosity."

Gifts from ambassadors were placed in front of a large window. The Pişkeş Gate (meaning "gift brought to a superior") has an inscription from 1810.

Behind the Audience Chamber is the Dormitory of the Expeditionary Force. This holds the Imperial Wardrobe Collection. This collection has about 2,500 clothes, including precious robes of the Sultans. It also has 360 ceramic items. The dormitory was built in 1635 and restored in the early 1700s. It is next to the Conqueror's Pavilion, which holds the Imperial Treasury.

The Imperial Treasury

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The Conqueror's Pavilion (Fatih Köşkü) holds the Imperial Treasury.
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Hallway of the Conqueror's Pavilion

The Conqueror's Pavilion, also called the Conqueror's Kiosk, is one of the oldest buildings in the palace. It was built around 1460. It has two floors on a terrace above the garden. It is on a cliff with views of the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus. The lower floor had service rooms. The upper floor had four apartments and a large porch. All rooms open to the Third Courtyard through a large archway. The pavilion was used as the treasury for money from Egypt under Sultan Selim I. During digs, a small Byzantine baptistery was found in the basement. It now holds the Imperial Treasury (Hazine-i Âmire).

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Door to the Imperial Treasury (Hazine-i Âmire)

The Imperial Treasury has a huge collection of art, jewelry, family treasures, and money from the Ottoman family. The Chief Treasurer was in charge of it.

The first room has one of Sultan Mustafa III's armors. It is an iron coat of mail with gold and jewels. His gilded sword, shield, and stirrups are also here. The ebony throne of Murad IV, with mother-of-pearl and ivory, is also in this room. Other items include jewel-covered Qur'an covers and mirrors. There is a music box from India with a gold elephant from the 1800s.

The second room has the Topkapı Dagger. Its golden handle has three large emeralds and a golden watch. The golden scabbard is covered with diamonds. In 1747, Sultan Mahmud I had this dagger made for Nader Shah of Persia. But the Shah was killed before it reached him. This dagger became famous from the film Topkapi. In the middle of the second room is the walnut throne of Ahmed I. It has mother-of-pearl and tortoise shell. A golden pendant with a large emerald hangs from it. Other displays show the fancy aigrettes (feather ornaments) of the sultans and their horses. These are covered with diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. A jade bowl, shaped like a boat, was a gift from Czar Nicholas II of Russia.

The most striking jewel in the third room is the Spoonmaker's Diamond. It is set in silver and surrounded by 49 diamonds. One story says a vizier bought it in a market, thinking it was a worthless crystal. Another story says it belonged to a powerful leader and was taken by the Sultan.

Among the exhibits are two huge solid gold candleholders. Each weighs 48 kg and has 6,666 diamonds. They were a gift from Sultan Abdülmecid I to the Kaaba in Mecca. They were brought back to Istanbul before the Ottoman Empire lost control of Mecca. The gold ceremonial Bayram throne, with tourmalines, was made in 1585. This throne was set up in front of the Gate of Felicity for special meetings.

The throne of Sultan Mahmud I is the main piece in the fourth room. This gold-plated throne, in Indian style, has pearls and emeralds. It was a gift from the Persian ruler Nader Shah in the 1700s. Another exhibit shows the forearm and hand of St. John the Baptist, set in gold. Several displays show old guns, swords, and spoons, all decorated with gold and jewels. A special item is the gold shrine that held the cloak of Mohammed.

Miniature and Portrait Gallery

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Scene from the Surname-ı Vehbi, located in the palace

Next to the Imperial Treasury is the pages dormitory. It is now the Miniature and Portrait Gallery. The lower floor has a collection of important calligraphies and miniatures. You can see old and very valuable Qur'ans (from the 1100s to 1600s), hand-painted and written in Kufic script. There is also a Bible from the 300s, written in Arabic. A priceless item is the first world map by Turkish admiral Piri Reis (1513). The map shows parts of Europe and North Africa accurately. The coast of Brazil is also clear.

The upper part of the gallery has 37 portraits of different sultans. Most are copies because the originals are too old to show publicly. The portrait of Mehmed II was painted by the Venetian artist Gentile Bellini. Other valuable Ottoman miniature paintings are kept here or in the palace library. These include the Hünername, Şahanşahname, and the Süleymanname.

Enderûn Library (Library of Ahmed III)

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Enderûn Library, or Library of Sultan Ahmed III
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İznik tiles decorate the interior.

The Neo-classical Enderûn Library (Enderûn Kütüphanesi), also called "Library of Sultan Ahmed III," is behind the Audience Chamber. It was built in 1719 for royal household officials. The library is an example of Ottoman architecture from the 1700s. The outside is covered with marble. The library is shaped like a Greek cross with a central dome. The walls above the windows have 16th and 17th-century İznik tiles. The central dome has paintings typical of the Tulip period (1703-1730). Books were stored in wall cupboards. The niche opposite the entrance was the sultan's private reading spot.

The library had books on theology, Islamic law, and other scholarly works in Ottoman Turkish, Arabic, and Persian. It had over 3,500 handwritten books. Today, these books are in the Mosque of the Ağas. One important item there is the Topkapi manuscript, a copy of the Qur'an from the time of the third Caliph Uthman Ibn Affan. The "New Library" has over 20,000 manuscripts, both Islamic and non-Islamic. It also has many valuable maps. The collection includes first editions of various books. The Islamic Miniatures collection has over 15,000 pieces. The sultan's private collection of 2,999 rare books is also here. Over 3,000 Qurans written in Kufic script, dating back to the 700s, are in a special part called "The Rooms of the Sacred Trust."

Mosque of the Ağas

The Mosque of the Ağas (Ağalar Camii) is the largest mosque in the palace. It is also one of the oldest buildings, from the 1400s. The Sultan, ağas, and pages prayed here. In 1928, books from the Enderûn Library were moved here. It now holds about 13,500 Turkish, Arabic, Persian, and Greek books and manuscripts. Next to the mosque is the Imperial Portraits Collection.

Dormitory of the Royal Pages

The Dormitory of the Royal Pages (Hasoda Koğuşu) holds the Imperial Portraits Collection. This was part of the Sultan's rooms. The painted portraits show all the Ottoman sultans. Some rare photos of later sultans are kept in glass cases. The room is air-conditioned to protect the paintings. Since sultans rarely appeared in public, and due to Islamic beliefs about showing people, earlier portraits are not exact. Only after the reforms of Mahmud II were realistic portraits made. A large painted family tree of the Ottoman rulers is interesting. The domed room has pillars, some from Byzantine times.

Privy Chamber

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Privy Chamber from the courtyard

The Privy Chamber holds the Chamber of the Sacred Relics. This includes the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle. The chamber was built by Sinan during Sultan Murad III's rule. It used to be the Sultan's offices.

It holds what are called "the most sacred relics of the Muslim world." These include the cloak of Muhammad, two swords, a bow, a tooth, a hair from his beard, and his battle sabers. Other sacred items are also displayed. These include swords of the first four Caliphs, the Staff of Moses, and the turban of Joseph. In the past, only the Sultan and his family could enter once a year. Now, any visitor can see these items. Many Muslims make a pilgrimage to see them.

The Arcade of the Chamber of the Holy Mantle was added during Murad III's rule. This arcade might have been built where an old temple once stood. The Privy Chamber was changed into a place for officials in the late 1800s.

Harem

Harem Topkapi Palace plan(2)
Layout of the Harem and the Sultan's Private Apartments. (click on image for details)
Inside the Harem, Topkapi Palace, Istanbul, Turkey (Nov 2009)
Tiled room inside Harem

The Imperial Harem (Harem-i Hümayûn) was a private part of the palace. It had over 400 rooms. The harem was home to the sultan's mother, the Valide sultan. It also housed the sultan's wives, concubines, children, and their servants. The harem is a group of buildings connected by hallways and courtyards. Each group living in the harem had its own space around a courtyard. Only a few rooms are open to the public. These apartments were for the harem eunuchs, the Chief Harem Eunuch, the concubines, the queen mother, the sultan's wives, and the princes. No one else could go beyond the harem gates.

The harem wing was added in the late 1500s. Many rooms in the Harem were designed by Mimar Sinan. The harem section opens into the Second Courtyard. The buildings grew over time towards the Golden Horn. They became a huge complex. Buildings added from the 1400s to the early 1800s show how palace design changed. Parts of the harem were redecorated in an Italian-style Ottoman Baroque style. These decorations are different from the older Ottoman style.

Gate of Carts / Domed Cupboard Chamber

The entrance from the Second Courtyard is the Gate of Carts (Arabalar Kapısı). It leads into the Domed Cupboard Room (Dolaplı Kubbe). This room was built in 1587 as an entrance to the harem. The harem treasury worked here. Records of trust deeds were kept in its cupboards. This treasury stored money from the harem's foundations and financial records of the sultans.

Hall of the Ablution Fountain

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Detail of the hall of the Ablution Fountain

The Hall of the Ablution Fountain was fixed after the Harem fire of 1666. This room was an entrance to the harem, guarded by eunuchs. The Büyük Biniş and the Şal Kapısı connected the Harem, the Privy Garden, the Mosque of the Harem Eunuchs, and the Tower of Justice to this place. The walls are covered with 17th-century Kütahya tiles.

The horse block in front of the mosque was for the sultan to mount his horse. The benches were for guards. The fountain that gives the room its name was moved. It is now in the pool of Murad III's Privy Chamber.

On the left is the small mosque of the black eunuchs. The tiles are from the 1600s. Their design is good, but the quality is not as high as 1500s tiles.

Courtyard of the Eunuchs

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The Courtyard of the Eunuchs
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Reconstruction of an Ottoman style library, in the Topkapı Palace museum

Another door leads to the Courtyard of the (Black) Eunuchs (Harem Ağaları Taşlığı). Their apartments are on the left. At the end of the court is the apartment of the black chief eunuch. In between is the school for the imperial princes. It has precious tiles from the 1600s and 1700s. At the end of the court is the main gate to the harem. A narrow path on the left leads to the apartments of the odalisques (female servants).

Many eunuchs' quarters face this courtyard. They also acted as guards. The areas around this courtyard were rebuilt after the 1665 fire. The complex includes the dormitory of the Harem eunuchs, the quarters of the Chief Harem Eunuch, and the School of Princes.

The dormitories of the Harem eunuchs are from the 1500s. They are built around a courtyard on three levels. The Chief Harem Eunuch's apartment has a bath, living rooms, and bedrooms. The school room for princes was on the upper floor. The walls were covered with 1700s European tiles.

Harem Main Entrance

The main entrance (Cümle Kapisi) separates the harem, where the sultan's family lived, from the Courtyard of the Eunuchs. The door leads to the sentry post. The three main parts of the harem are connected to this post. The door on the left leads to the Court of the Concubines. The middle door leads to the Court of the Queen Mother. The door on the right leads through the Golden Road to the sultan's quarters. The large mirrors in this hall are from the 1700s.

Courtyard of the Queen Mother

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Courtyard of the Apartments of the Queen Mother (Valide Sultan Dairesi)

After the main entrance and before turning to the Passage of Concubines is the Courtyard of the Queen Mother.

Passage of Concubines

The Passage of Concubines (Cariye Koridoru) leads into the Courtyard of the Sultan's Chief Consorts and Concubines. Eunuchs placed dishes from the kitchens on counters along this passage.

Courtyard of the Sultan's Consorts and the Concubines

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Courtyard of the Concubines

The Courtyard of the Sultan's Consorts and the Concubines was built in the mid-1500s. It was restored after the 1665 fire. It is the smallest courtyard in the Harem. The courtyard is surrounded by baths, a laundry fountain, dormitories, and the apartments of the Sultan's chief consort. The three tiled apartments overlooking the Golden Horn were where the Sultan's consorts lived. Wall paintings from the late 1700s show landscapes.

A staircase, called the "Forty Steps," leads to the Harem Hospital and the dormitories of the concubines in the basement.

Apartments of the Queen Mother

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Exhibit representing the Queen Mother and her attendants in her apartments

The Apartments of the Queen Mother (Valide Sultan Dairesi) are the largest and most important part of the harem, along with the sultan's apartments. They were built in the late 1500s. They had to be rebuilt after the 1665 fire. Some rooms, like the small music room, were added in the 1700s.

Only two rooms are open to the public: the dining room and her bedroom. The lower floors have rooms for concubines. The upper floors are for the Queen Mother and her ladies-in-waiting. The Queen Mother's apartments are connected to the sultan's quarters by a passage.

These rooms are decorated with blue-and-white or yellow-and-green tiles from the 1600s. A tile panel showing Mecca or Medina is a new style of İznik tiles. The paintings in the upper rooms are in a Western European style from the 1700s and 1800s.

Baths of the Sultan and the Queen Mother

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Baths of the Sultan with gilded grill

The Baths of the Sultan and the Queen Mother (Hünkâr ve Vâlide Hamamları) are next. This double bath is from the late 1500s. It was redecorated in the rococo style in the mid-1700s. Both baths have the same design: a hot room, a warm room, and a cold room. Each room has a dome or glass in the ceiling for light. The floor is white and gray marble. The marble tub with a fountain and the gilded iron grill are special features. The golden grill protected the sultan or his mother from attacks. The sultan's bath was decorated with high-quality İznik tiles by Sinan. But many tiles from the harem were used by Sultan Ahmed I for his new Sultan Ahmed Mosque. The walls are now marble or white.

Imperial Hall

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Imperial Hall with the throne of the sultan
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Dome ceiling of the Imperial Hall

The Imperial Hall (Hünkâr Sofası) is a domed hall in the Harem. It was built in the late 1500s. It has the largest dome in the palace. The hall was used for official receptions and entertainment. Here, the sultan met his trusted friends, guests, mother, wives, and children. Celebrations and wedding ceremonies happened here.

After the Great Harem Fire of 1666, the hall was renovated in the rococo style. The walls have 1700s blue-and-white Delftware tiles and Venetian glass mirrors. But the dome and arches still have classical paintings from when it was first built.

The sultan's throne is in the hall. The sultan's wives, led by the Queen Mother, sat in the gallery. The gilded chairs were a gift from Emperor Wilhelm II of Germany. The clocks were a gift from Queen Victoria. A pantry with musical instruments opens to the Imperial Hall. This hall leads to the sultan's private apartments.

A secret door behind a mirror allowed the sultan to pass safely. One door leads to the Queen Mother's apartments, another to the sultan's bath. Other doors lead to the small dining chamber and the great bedchamber.

Privy Chamber of Murat III

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The fountain of the Privy Chamber of Murat III

The Privy Chamber of Murat III (III. Murad Has Odası) is the oldest and best-preserved room in the harem. It was designed by Mimar Sinan and is from the 1500s. Its dome is almost as big as the Throne Room's. The room has one of the palace's finest doors. It leads past the crown princes' wing. The room is decorated with blue-and-white and red İznik tiles. The designs are framed in thick orange borders from the 1570s. A band of tiles with writing runs around the room. The large arabesque patterns on the dome have been re-gilded.

The large fireplace has a gilded hood. Opposite it is a two-tiered fountain. The water flow was meant to stop eavesdropping and create a calm mood. Two gilded beds are from the 1700s.

Privy Chamber of Ahmed I

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The Fruit Room with painted walls

Next to the great bedchamber are two smaller rooms. First, the Privy Chamber of Ahmed I (I. Ahmed Has Odası). It is richly decorated with İznik glazed tiles. The cabinet doors, window shutters, a small table, and a Qur'an stand are decorated with mother-of-pearl and ivory.

Privy Chamber of Ahmed III

Next to it is the small but colorful Privy Chamber of Ahmed III (III. Ahmed Has Odası). Its walls are painted with flowers and fruit bowls. It has a detailed tiled fireplace. This room is also known as the Fruit Room (Yemis Odası) and was likely used for dining.

Twin Kiosk / Apartments of the Crown Prince

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Outside view of the Twin Kiosk
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Stained-glass windows decorate the interior.

The Twin Kiosk / Apartments of the Crown Prince (Çifte Kasırlar / Veliahd Dairesi) has two private chambers. They were built in the 1600s. The building is connected to the palace. It has only one floor, built on a raised platform for better views from inside and privacy from outside.

The inside has two large rooms. They are from Sultan Murat III's time, or perhaps Ahmed I's. The ceiling is cone-shaped, like the traditional tents of early Ottomans. Like in tents, there is no standing furniture. Sofas are on the carpeted floor for seating. These rooms show the classical style used in other parts of the palace.

The pavilion has been completely redecorated. Most of the Baroque woodwork is gone. The decorative tiles, from the 1600s, were replaced with modern copies. The paint on the wooden dome is original. It shows the rich designs of the late 1500s/early 1600s. The fireplace in the second room has a tall, gilded hood. The window shutters next to the fireplace have nacre intarsia (inlaid designs). The colored glass windows look out over the terrace and garden.

The crown prince (Şehzadeler) lived here in privacy. So, the apartments were also called kafes (cage). The crown prince and other princes were trained in the Ottoman Harem until they grew up. Then, they were sent to rule provinces. From the 1600s, princes lived in the Harem. The Twin Kiosk was used as the crown prince's private chamber from the 1700s.

Courtyard of the Favourites

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The Courtyard of the Favourites

The Courtyard of the Favourites (Gözdeler / Mabeyn Taşlığı ve Dairesi) is the last part of the Harem. It looks over a large pool and the Boxwood Garden. The courtyard was made bigger in the 1700s. The apartment of the Sultan's Favourite Consort and the Golden Road are here. This was where Abdül Hamid I lived with his harem. The wooden apartment is decorated in the rococo style.

The sultan's favorites were important for continuing the royal family. When they became pregnant, they got the title of official consort (Kadınefendi).

Golden Road

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The Golden Road

The Golden Road (Altınyol) is a narrow path. It is the main path of the Harem, from the 1400s. It goes between the Courtyard of the Harem Eunuch and the Privy Chamber. The sultan used this path to go to the Harem, the Privy Chamber, and the Imperial terrace. The Queen Mother's Courtyard, the Sultan's Chief Consort's Courtyard, the Princes' apartments, and the Sultan's apartments open to this path. The walls are plain white. Some believe it is called "golden" because the sultan threw gold coins for concubines on festive days.

Aviary / Harem Gate

Until the late 1800s, there was a small inner court here. This court led through the Kuşhane Gate into the harem. Today, this is the gate where visitors leave the Harem. Birds were raised here for the sultan's table. An inscription over the Kuşhane door says Mahmud I had the Kuşhane kitchen repaired. The aviary's balcony was built in 1916. The building looks like traditional aviaries.

Fourth Courtyard

The Fourth Courtyard (IV. Avlu), also called the Imperial Sofa, was a very private area for the sultan and his family. It has many pavilions, kiosks, gardens, and terraces. It was once part of the Third Courtyard.

Yerevan Kiosk

Revan Kiosk
Open recess (iwan) of the Yerevan Kiosk

The Yerevan Kiosk (Revan Köşkü) was used for religious retreats. It is a small pavilion with a central dome. It has three areas for sofas and textiles. The fourth wall has a door and a fireplace. The wall facing the columns is marble. The other walls have blue-and-white İznik tiles.

Baghdad Kiosk

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Interior of Baghdad Kiosk

The Baghdad Kiosk (Bağdat Köşkü) is on the right side of the terrace with a fountain. It was built after 1638 to remember Murad IV's Baghdad Campaign.

It looks much like the Yerevan Kiosk. Its three doors open to the porch. The outside is covered with marble and colored stones. The inside is an example of a perfect Ottoman room. The shelves and cupboards are decorated with green, yellow, and blue tiles from the early 1500s. The blue-and-white tiles on the walls are copies of tiles from another room. This pavilion is one of the last examples of classical palace architecture.

The doors have very fine inlaid work. On the right side of the entrance is a fireplace with a gilded hood. In the middle of the room is a silver charcoal stove. It was a gift from King Louis XIV of France. From the mid-1700s, the building was used as the library of the Privy Chamber.

İftar Kiosk

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Upper terrace with fountain, İftar bower and Baghdad Kiosk

The gilded İftar Pavilion, also called İftar Kiosk (İftariye Köşkü), offers a view of the Golden Horn. It is popular for photos today. Its gilded roof was new in Ottoman architecture. The sultan used to break his fast (iftar) here during ramadan after sunset. Some call this spot the "Moonlit Seat." Special gifts, like gold coins, were sometimes given to officials here. The marble terrace got its current look during Sultan Ibrahim's rule (1640–48).

Terrace Kiosk

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Interior of the Terrace Kiosk
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Tulip Garden and Terrace Kiosk

The Terrace Kiosk (Sofa Köşku) was a viewing platform built in the late 1500s. It was restored in 1704 and rebuilt in 1752. It is the only wooden building in the inner palace. It has rooms with columns supporting the back.

The kiosk has a main hall called Divanhane, a prayer room, and a room for sweet fruit drinks. From here, the sultan watched sports and other shows in the garden. This open building with large windows was first a resting place. Later, it was a lodge for guests. It is next to the Tulip Garden.

Tower of the Head Tutor / Chamber of the Chief Physician

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Tower of the Head Tutor / Chamber of the Chief Physician

The square Tower of the Head Tutor (Başlala Kulesi) is also known as the Chamber of the Chief Physician. It is from the 1400s and is the oldest building in the Fourth Courtyard. It was built as a watch tower. It has few windows, and its walls are almost two meters thick. The physician had his private room at the top. Below was a store for medicine.

The first palace pharmacy was set up during Mehmed II's rule. There were other pharmacies and clinics too. Legend says a Chief Tutor saw rebels coming to kill the sultan from this tower. He warned the sultan's loyalists.

The Chief Physician and Chief Tutor shared this place. The Chief Physician was in charge of the sultan's and royal family's health. He prepared medicines here. The Chief Physician also traveled with the sultan. This job was often held by Jewish people. After the 1600s, more Muslim and European physicians joined. The last Chief Physician lived during Sultan Abdülmecid I's rule. After the sultan moved, the tower was used for music and cleaning palace weapons. It was restored in 1911 and now holds medical objects.

Stone Throne

A stone throne (Taş Taht) was made for Murad IV. He used it to watch pages' sports. An inscription on the throne says that in 1636, Murad IV, who was a good sportsman, threw a wooden club 120 meters.

Grand Kiosk

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Grand Kiosk

The Grand Kiosk, also called the Mecidiye Kiosk, was the last big addition to the palace. It was built in 1840. Sultan Abdül Mecid I ordered it as a royal reception and resting place. It has great views of the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus. Sultans stayed here when visiting Topkapı from their seaside palaces. These buildings were built on the basement of an older kiosk. The architect Sarkis Balyan designed it in a mix of European and Ottoman styles. Inside, it is furnished in the Empire style. The two buildings were also sometimes used for foreign guests.

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Panoramic view of the Marmara Sea from the palace

Next to the Grand Kiosk is a high-end restaurant. Famous guests like Queen Elizabeth II, First Lady Jackie Kennedy, President Richard Nixon, and boxer Muhammad Ali have visited it.

Terrace Mosque

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Terrace Mosque

The Terrace Mosque, also called Sofa Mosque (Sofa Camii), was built under Mahmud II. It was for a group called Sofa Ocaği in the 1800s. An older building used to be in its place. An inscription says it was restored in 1858.

Outer Gardens

The outer palace gardens surround the whole complex. A part facing the sea is also called the Fifth Palace.

Mehmed II also had three pavilions built. Only the Tiled Kiosk (Çinili Köşkü) has survived. The Tiled Pavilion is from around 1473. It holds the Islamic ceramics collection of the Istanbul Archaeology Museums.

Along the shore, several pavilions were built for the sultan to enjoy the views. Most of these were destroyed when the railway lines were built in the late 1800s. The Basketmakers' Kiosk was saved.

Next to the First Courtyard is Gülhane Park. This was the old imperial rose garden and part of the palace. This park is now open to the public. The Procession Kiosk is at the park's gate.

Trees

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One of the hollow trees in the Third Court

The trees in Topkapı Palace are special. Many have been hollowed out by a fungus over centuries. But the trees still live and stand. In some cases, two different trees have grown together. For example, a fig tree grew inside another hollow tree and joined with it. You can see this in the second courtyard.

Security Concerns

Some experts say the palace has weak security and preservation. They point out that it has no climate-controlled rooms or storage.

Since many palace walls are three meters thick, it mostly avoided damage during the 1999 İzmit earthquake. After this, the museum director put the porcelain collection on safer stands.

In a 1999 robbery, thieves stole parts of a 12th-century Qur'an from a locked display in the library.

On November 30, 2011, a former Libyan police officer opened fire at the Imperial Gate. He injured two guards. He entered the main courtyard but was forced back. After a gunfight, he was killed by Turkish Police SWAT teams.

Copies

The resort hotel World Of Wonders Resorts & Hotels Topkapı Palace in Antalya is a copy of some of the palace buildings. These include the Audience Chamber, the palace kitchens, and the Tower of Justice.

See Also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Palacio de Topkapı para niños

  • Dolmabahçe Palace – another imperial residence
  • Yıldız Palace – another imperial residence
  • Ottoman architecture
  • State organisation of the Ottoman Empire
  • Military of the Ottoman Empire
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