Wilfrid Noyce facts for kids
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| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Main discipline | Mountaineer, writer |
| Born | 31 December 1917 Simla, Punjab Province, British India (now Shimla, Himachal Pradesh, India) |
| Died | 24 July 1962 (aged 44) Mount Garmo, Tajik SSR (now in Tajikistan) |
| Nationality |
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| Career | |
| Notable ascents | First ascent of Machapuchare, May 1957 First ascent of Singu Chuli, June 1957 |
Wilfrid Noyce (born December 31, 1917 – died July 24, 1962) was an English mountaineer and author. He was an important member of the team that made the first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953.
Contents
Early Life and Education
Wilfrid Noyce was born in 1917 in Simla, India. His father, Sir Frank Noyce, worked for the British government in India. Wilfrid went to school at Charterhouse and then studied at King's College, Cambridge University. He was a very bright student and excelled in languages.
World War II Service
When Second World War started, Wilfrid first joined a group called the Friends Ambulance Unit. This group helped people without fighting. Later, he decided to join the British Army. He worked in the Intelligence Corps. This meant he helped with secret information. He even worked on breaking secret Japanese codes. He also helped train soldiers in mountain climbing techniques.
Life After the War
After the war, Wilfrid Noyce became a school teacher. He taught modern languages at Malvern College and then at his old school, Charterhouse. In 1950, he married Rosemary Campbell Davies. They had two sons, Michael and Jeremy.
Wilfrid Noyce's Climbing Adventures
Wilfrid Noyce was a skilled climber from a young age. By 18, he was already climbing difficult routes. He often climbed with his friend John Menlove Edwards in Snowdonia, Wales. They even helped write climbing guides for the area.
Climbing in the Alps
In the late 1930s, Wilfrid was one of the best British climbers in the Alps. He was known for being very fast and having great stamina. He made many impressive climbs quickly. Even though he had some serious accidents, he kept climbing. He enjoyed introducing young people to climbing and exploring new places.
The 1953 Everest Expedition
Wilfrid Noyce was chosen to be part of the historic 1953 British expedition to Mount Everest. This team aimed to be the first to reach the summit of the world's highest mountain.
Preparing for the Climb
The expedition leader, John Hunt, thought Wilfrid was a very strong and experienced climber. Edmund Hillary, who later reached the summit, also saw Wilfrid as one of the most capable British climbers. Wilfrid had many important jobs on the expedition. He helped with writing reports and packing supplies. He was also in charge of the climbing equipment. He even learned how to repair high-altitude boots, which was very useful on the mountain.
Reaching the South Col
On May 21, Wilfrid Noyce and a Sherpa climber named Annullu made a huge breakthrough. They were the first members of the expedition to reach Everest's South Col. This is a high, saddle-shaped area between Mount Everest and Lhotse. It was a very important step towards the summit.
Wilfrid described the South Col as a "long dreamed, long hoped for" place. It was a rocky, icy area where the Swiss expedition had left some supplies the year before. Wilfrid and Annullu fixed a long rope to help other climbers reach the Col safely. Their success greatly boosted the team's spirits. Everyone realized that reaching the South Col was possible.
Wilfrid climbed to the South Col a second time on May 29. This was the same day that Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay successfully reached the summit. Wilfrid and another Sherpa, Pasang Phutar, carried heavy loads to the Col. Wilfrid was one of the few climbers to reach the South Col without using extra oxygen.
When Hillary and Tenzing returned from the summit, Wilfrid was there to greet them. He helped the tired climbers and congratulated them. Wilfrid later wrote a book about the expedition called South Col. He also wrote a poem with the same name.
Later Climbing Achievements
Wilfrid Noyce continued his amazing climbing career after Everest.
- In 1957, he made the first major climb of Machapuchare in Nepal. He stopped just 50 meters from the top out of respect for local religious beliefs.
- He also made the first climb of Singu Chuli in 1957.
- In 1959, he made the first British climb of a difficult route on the north face of the Dent d'Hérens in the Alps.
- In 1960, he made the first climb of Trivor in Pakistan.
Tragic Accident
Sadly, Wilfrid Noyce died in a climbing accident in 1962. He was on an expedition in the Pamirs mountains with a British and Soviet team. After successfully climbing Mount Garmo, he and another climber, Robin Smith, slipped during the descent. They both fell and died. Their bodies were buried in the mountains nearby.
Wilfrid Noyce's Writings
Wilfrid Noyce was also a talented writer. He wrote books, poems, and articles about mountains and climbing. His book Scholar Mountaineers looked at different writers and thinkers who loved mountains. He believed these people helped us appreciate and explore mountains even more.
Remembering Wilfrid Noyce
The "Wilfrid Noyce Community Centre" in Godalming, England, is named after him. This center helps remember his contributions and his spirit of adventure.
