Ethan Pringle facts for kids
Ethan Pringle, 2021
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| Personal information | ||||||||
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| Nickname(s) | Piledriver | |||||||
| Nationality | American | |||||||
| Born | May 30, 1986 San Francisco, California |
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| Occupation | Professional rock climber | |||||||
| Height | 5 ft 10 in | |||||||
| Weight | 150 lb | |||||||
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| Type of climber |
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| Highest grade |
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| Known for | First repeat of Jumbo Love | |||||||
| First ascents |
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Medal record
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| Updated on 28 July 2023. | ||||||||
Ethan Pringle, born on May 30, 1986, in San Francisco, California, is an American rock climber. He is famous for his amazing climbs in different styles. These include sport climbing, traditional climbing, and bouldering.
One of his biggest achievements was repeating Jumbo Love in 2015. This was the world's first route graded 9b. He also made a very difficult traditional climb called Blackbeard's Tears in 2016. Ethan has also competed in climbing. He won national championships for young climbers and adults. He also earned a silver medal at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships.
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Early life and first climbs
Ethan Pringle grew up in the Mission District of San Francisco. He started climbing when he was 8 years old. By age 12, he began to compete in climbing events.
He quickly became very good at climbing. When he was 12, he had already completed his first 5.13a (7c+) route. By the time he was 13, he had climbed an even harder route, a 5.14a (8b+).
Ethan's climbing journey
Competition climbing achievements
Ethan was the best young climber in America for four years in a row. He won the national youth championship in lead climbing from 1998 to 2002. In 2000, he won a silver medal in lead climbing at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships.
As an adult, Ethan continued to win. He took home the gold medal in the men's USA national championships for lead climbing in 2005. He also won silver in 2004 and bronze in 2009. In bouldering, he won silver medals in 2006 and 2012. He even won a bronze medal in speed climbing in 2004.
In 2009, Ethan had a serious shoulder injury during a national bouldering championship. This injury was very tough and almost stopped his climbing career. Luckily, he recovered fully after more than a year.
Sport climbing highlights
Ethan became known around the world in 2007. He repeated Chris Sharma's famous route, Realization/Biographie 9a+ (5.15a), in France. At that time, 9a+ was one of the hardest sport climbing grades in the world.
After that, he visited Spain and climbed several routes up to 8c (5.14b) on his first try. One of these was Iron Man.
Ethan and Chris Sharma spent many weeks trying to be the first to climb Jumbo Love in California. Ethan had to stop because of an injury. In 2008, Chris Sharma completed the route. It is now known as the first-ever 9b (5.15b) sport climb.
After recovering from his injury, Ethan started making first ascents of 9a (5.14d) routes. These included Spicy Dumpling in China (2010) and Arrested Development (2012). In 2015, he became the first person to repeat Jumbo Love. Later that year, he visited Norway and repeated Thor's Hammer 9a+ (5.15a). He also made the first ascent of The Eye of Odin at 8c+ (5.14c). The next year, Ethan made the first ascent of Everything is Karate. This was one of America's hardest sport routes at 9a (5.14d).
Traditional climbing achievements
Ethan is also very skilled in traditional climbing. In 2008, he was the second person to repeat Cobra Crack. This is a famous 8c (5.14b) traditional route by Sonnie Trotter. It was considered one of the hardest in the world at the time.
In 2016, Ethan made the first ascent of Blackbeard's Tears in California. At 8c+ (5.14c), this climb was thought to be one of the hardest traditional climbs in the world. It is still considered extremely difficult today.
Notable climbs
Hardest sport climbs
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- 9b (5.15b)
- Jumbo Love – Clark Mountain (USA) – May 2015. This was the first time someone repeated Chris Sharma's 2008 route.
- 9a+ (5.15a)
- Empath – Kirkwood, California (US) – June 2021. This was the fourth time someone repeated Carlo Traversi's 2020 route.
- Thor's Hammer – Flatanger (NOR) – October 2015. This was the fourth time someone repeated Adam Ondra's 2012 route.
- Realization – Ceuse (FRA) – September 2007. This was the fourth time someone repeated Chris Sharma's 2001 route.
- 9a (5.14d)
- Everything is Karate – Bishop, California (US) – April 2017. This was the first time anyone climbed this route.
- La Reina Mora – Siurana (ESP) – March 2016.
- Arrested Development – Mount Charleston, Nevada (US) – June 2012. This was the first time anyone climbed this route.
- Spicy Dumpling: – Yangshoo (CHN) – December 2010. This was the first time anyone climbed this route, making it China's hardest sport climb.
Hardest onsight climbs
- 8b+ (5.14a)
Hardest traditional climbs
- 8c+ (5.14c)
- Blackbeard's Tears – Redwood Coast, California (USA) – September 2016. This was the first time anyone climbed this route. It was considered one of the hardest traditional climbs in the world at the time.
- 8c (5.14b)
- Cobra Crack – Squamish, British Columbia (CAN) – August 2008. This was the second time someone repeated Sonnie Trotter's famous 2006 route. It is still one of the world's hardest traditional climbs.
Hardest boulder problems
- V15 (8C)
- The Wheel of Life – Grampians National Park (AUS) – June 2010. This was the second time someone repeated Dai Koyamada's famous 2004 boulder.
- The Nest – Red Rocks, Nevada (US) – July 2018. This was the fourth time someone repeated Daniel Woods' 2013 boulder.
- Kintsugi – Red Rocks, Nevada (US) – April 2019. This was the fourth time someone repeated Nalle Hukkataival's 2015 boulder.
See also
- History of rock climbing
- List of first ascents (sport climbing)
