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Diadem Peak
Contrails Over Diadem Peak -- Jasper National Park Icefields Parkway September 2019.jpg
Diadem Peak from Icefields Parkway
Highest point
Elevation 3,371 m (11,060 ft)
Prominence 211 m (692 ft)
Parent peak Mount Woolley (3405 m)
Listing Mountains of Alberta
Geography
Diadem Peak is located in Alberta
Diadem Peak
Diadem Peak
Location in Alberta
Parent range Winston Churchill Range
Topo map NTS 83C/06 Sunwapta Peak
Climbing
First ascent 1898 by Collie, Stutfield and Woolley
Easiest route rock/snow/glacier climb (South Ridge)

Diadem Peak is a tall peak found in the Sunwapta River Valley within Jasper National Park, Canada. It's like the highest point on a ridge that connects to the even taller Mount Woolley, which is about 3,405 meters (11,171 feet) high. Diadem Peak was the very first mountain over 11,000 feet (3,353 meters) north of the huge Columbia Icefield to be successfully climbed. It's also one of the few peaks in the Canadian Rockies that climbers reached before the year 1900.

The mountain got its name in 1898 from the first team to climb it: J. Norman Collie, Hugh Stutfield, and Hermann Woolley. When they reached the top, they saw a crown-like shape of snow, about 30 meters (98 feet) high, covering the flat rocks at the summit. A "diadem" is another word for a crown or a fancy headband.

Climbing Diadem Peak

Mount Woolley and Diadem Peak
Diadem Peak (right) and Mount Woolley (left), seen from Parker Ridge

Climbing Diadem Peak has a cool history! In the summer of 1898, J. Norman Collie, Hugh Stutfield, and Herman Woolley were exploring. They first planned to climb Mount Woolley, but a sudden ice collapse made them change their minds. Instead, they decided to try Diadem Peak.

They climbed up the mountain's southeast side, dealing with loose rocks and ice. They found a small rocky path that led them to the very top on August 25, 1898. This was a big achievement for its time!

Later, in 1962, two climbers named William Buckingham and Bill Hooker found a new way up. This path is now called the South Ridge route. It involves climbing over rocky ledges and then up a snow and ice gully. They followed the glacier until it was flat and then climbed easily along a ridge to the summit.

In July 1981, Jim Elzinga and Jeff Marshall made the first climb up the challenging North face of Diadem Peak. This route is known as "Humble Horse."

How the Mountain Was Formed

Mushroom Peak and Diadem Peak
Mushroom Peak (left) and Diadem Peak (right) seen from the Icefields Parkway

Diadem Peak is made of sedimentary rock. This type of rock forms from layers of sand, mud, and other materials that settle at the bottom of ancient seas over millions of years. These layers were laid down during periods from the Precambrian era all the way to the Jurassic period.

Later, during a huge event called the Laramide orogeny, these rock layers were pushed and folded. They were even pushed eastward, sliding over younger rocks, which helped create the tall mountains we see today.

Weather at Diadem Peak

Diadem Peak is located in a subarctic climate zone. This means it has very cold, snowy winters and mild summers. Temperatures can often drop below -20 °C (-4 °F). When you add in the wind, it can feel even colder, sometimes below -30 °C (-22 °F)!

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