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Jerzy Kukuczka
Jerzy Kukuczka Mount Everest 1980.jpg
Jerzy Kukuczka on Mount Everest, 1980
Personal information
Nationality Polish
Born (1948-03-24)24 March 1948
Poland Katowice, Poland
Died 24 October 1989(1989-10-24) (aged 41)
Nepal Lhotse, Nepal
Website Virtual Museum of Jerzy Kukuczka
Climbing career
Known for
First ascents
Gasherbrum II East, Biarchedi, Manaslu East, Yebokalgan Ri, Shishapangma West
Major ascents Four winter ascents on the eight-thousanders
Katowice - Graffiti Jerzy Kukuczka
Kukuczka on graffiti in Katowice
Katowice - Graffiti Jerzy Kukuczka (2)
Street art of Kukuczka in Bogucice, the district of Katowice where he grew up and lived, unveiled in 2019.

Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (born March 24, 1948, in Katowice, Poland – died October 24, 1989, on Lhotse, Nepal) was a very famous Polish mountain climber. He was known for climbing very high mountains.

On September 18, 1987, he became only the second person ever to climb all fourteen of the world's highest mountains. These mountains are called eight-thousanders because they are all over 8,000 meters (about 26,247 feet) tall. He achieved this amazing feat in less than eight years.

Jerzy Kukuczka is also the only person to have climbed two eight-thousanders in one winter. In total, he climbed four eight-thousanders during winter. Three of these were the very first winter climbs of those mountains. With another climber, Tadeusz Piotrowski, Kukuczka created a new path up K2. This path, called the "Polish Line," was climbed in a special way called alpine style. No one has ever climbed this path again.

Climbing the World's Highest Peaks

Many people who love mountain climbing think Jerzy Kukuczka was one of the best high-altitude climbers ever. He climbed all fourteen eight-thousanders in just under eight years. For almost 27 years, he held the world record for climbing these peaks the fastest. In 2014, another climber, Kim Chang-ho, broke his record by a little over a month.

Unlike many other famous climbers, Kukuczka often chose new and difficult paths up the mountains. Many of his climbs were the first time anyone had ever used that path. He often climbed in the middle of winter, facing strong winds and extreme cold.

During his climbing career, Kukuczka created ten new paths on eight-thousanders. This is still a record today. He also climbed four of these giant peaks in winter. He was part of a special group of Polish climbers called Ice Warriors. They were experts at climbing mountains in winter.

It was hard to get money and equipment for expeditions in Poland during his time. To earn money for his climbing dreams, Kukuczka would paint tall factory chimneys. He did this by climbing them using ropes, which is a type of industrial climbing.

Kukuczka's Eight-Thousander Climbs

This table shows when and where Jerzy Kukuczka climbed the world's highest mountains. It also shows the paths he took and special details about his climbs.

Year Location Mountain Route Comments
1979 Nepal Lhotse West Face Normal Route
1980 Nepal Mount Everest South Pillar New Route
1981 Nepal Makalu Variation to Makalu La/North-West Ridge New Route, Alpine style, Solo
1982 Pakistan Broad Peak West Spur Normal Route, Alpine style
1983 Pakistan Gasherbrum II South-East Spur New Route, Alpine style
1983 Pakistan Gasherbrum I South-West Face New Route, Alpine style
1984 Pakistan Broad Peak Traverse of North, Middle, Rocky and Main Summits New Route, Alpine style
1985 Nepal Dhaulagiri North-East Spur Normal Route, First Winter Ascent
1985 Nepal Cho Oyu South-East Pillar Second Winter Ascent
1985 Pakistan Nanga Parbat South-East Pillar New Route
1986 Nepal Kanchenjunga South-West Face Normal Route, First Winter Ascent
1986 Pakistan K2 South Face New Route, Alpine style
1986 Nepal Manaslu North-East Face New Route, Alpine style
1987 Nepal Annapurna I North Face Normal Route, First Winter Ascent
1987 China Shishapangma West Ridge New Route, Alpine style, Ski Descent
1988 Nepal Annapurna East South Face New Route, Alpine style

He climbed all these mountains without extra oxygen, except for Mount Everest.

His Final Climb

Jerzy Kukuczka died while trying to climb the South Face of Lhotse in Nepal. This part of the mountain had never been climbed before. It happened on October 24, 1989.

He was climbing at a height of about 8,200 meters (26,900 feet). He was using a thin, used rope he had bought in a market. His climbing partner, Ryszard Pawłowski, said their main rope was stuck. So, they decided to use a different, less strong rope. When Kukuczka lost his balance and fell, the rope broke. He fell a very long way. His body was never found.

Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka

Jerzy Kukuczka is remembered in many ways:

  • In 1996, his wife, Cecylia Kukuczka, created a special room in a summer house in Istebna, Poland. It is called the Memorial Chamber of Jerzy Kukuczka.
  • A mountain hotel in Dingboche, Nepal, is named "Yak Hotel Jerzy Kukuczka."
  • The Jerzy Kukuczka Academy of Physical Education in Katowice is a university named after him. It teaches about physical education and health.
  • There is also a street named after him in the Gaj district of Wrocław, Poland.

See also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Jerzy Kukuczka para niños

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