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Kenton Cool
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Kenton Cool
Born (1973-07-30) 30 July 1973 (age 51)
Nationality British
Alma mater University of Leeds
Occupation Mountain guide
Motivational speaker
Known for
  • Record holder for most number of Mount Everest summits (18) by a non-Sherpa
  • 1st British ski descent from 8 km peak
  • Nominee for Piolet d'Or
mountaineering award
Spouse(s) Jasmine Black
Children 2

Kenton Edward Cool (born 30 July 1973) is a famous British climber and mountain guide. He is known as one of Britain's best high-altitude climbers. Kenton has reached the top of Mount Everest an amazing 18 times! He even guided famous explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes on his Everest trips in 2008 and 2009.

Kenton has completed over 45 big expeditions in the world's highest mountain ranges. In 2013, he became the first person to climb Nuptse, Everest, and Lhotse one after another without returning to base camp. This was a truly incredible achievement!

Kenton Cool's Life Story

Kenton Cool was born in Slough, England, in 1973. His family's original name was Kuhle, but it was changed during the Second World War. His father was a photographer and his mother was a florist. Kenton went to John Hampden Grammar School and later studied Geological Sciences at the University of Leeds, graduating in 1994.

How Kenton Started Climbing

Kenton first discovered mountaineering through the Scouts. He fell in love with rock climbing while at Leeds University. After finishing his studies, he moved to Sheffield to focus more on climbing.

In 1996, Kenton had a serious accident. He fell from a rock face in north Wales and broke both his heel bones. Doctors told him he might need a stick to walk for the rest of his life. But Kenton was determined to climb again. After a year of operations and therapy, he worked hard to get back in shape. He then joined the British Association of Mountain Guides program.

In his twenties, Kenton worked on tall buildings using ropes. He then started guiding for a company called Jagged Globe. Later, he helped start 'Adventure Base', which is now a well-known adventure company around the world.

Family Life and Home

Kenton Cool got married in 2008 to Jazz Black, whom he met in Chamonix, France. They live in the village of Bibury in Gloucestershire, UK, and have two children. Kenton is a fully qualified IFMGA (UIAGM) Guide and Expedition Leader. He guides climbers in the Alps and the Himalayas.

Kenton knows that mountaineering can be dangerous. He has lost many friends in the sport. He once said that he wants to live a long life and "die with my feet up in front of the fire drinking a glass of red wine aged about 95."

Awards and Special Moments

In 2003, Kenton was nominated for the Piolet d'Or award. This is a very important award for mountaineering. He was recognized for a new climbing route on Annapurna III.

In 2012, Kenton did something special for the Olympic Games. He took one of the 1924 Olympic Gold Medals to the top of Everest. This medal was given to the 1922 British Everest Expedition for their "Outstanding feats of human endeavour." Lord Coe thanked Kenton for helping to "kick start the 2012 Olympic Games."

In July 2018, the University of Leeds gave Kenton an honorary Doctor of Laws degree. This was to recognize his amazing achievements.

Kenton's Amazing Expeditions

Kenton Cool is known as one of the UK's best mountain and ski expedition leaders. He has guided many people on difficult climbs.

Guiding Sir Ranulph Fiennes

In 2007, Kenton guided polar explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes up the north face of the Eiger. Sir Ranulph was in his sixties and was even afraid of heights at first! In May 2008, they tried to climb Mount Everest, but Sir Ranulph had to turn back. However, in 2009, Kenton successfully led Sir Ranulph Fiennes to the top of Everest. This made Kenton the most successful British Expedition Leader on the mountain.

The Everest Triple Crown

In May 2013, Kenton and his climbing partner Dorje Gylgen achieved the "Everest Triple Crown." In just seven days, and without returning to base camp, they climbed three huge mountains: Nuptse (7,864 meters), Everest (8,850 meters), and Lhotse (8,516 meters). Many people thought this was impossible because of how hard it is on the human body to stay at such high altitudes for so long.

Kenton has led over 40 successful expeditions in the world's highest mountain ranges. He has the highest success rate of any mountain guide on Everest. He has personally reached the summit of Everest 18 times. In May 2007, he even reached the top twice in one week!

Skiing Down Giant Mountains

In October 2006, Kenton became the first British person to ski down an 8,000-meter peak. He skied down Cho Oyu in Nepal, which is the 6th highest mountain in the world. In 2010, he made the third-ever ski descent of Manaslu in Nepal, the world's 8th highest mountain. This made him one of only a few people in the world to ski down multiple 8000 metre peaks.

Special Summits

In January 2015, Kenton reached the summit of Everest for the 11th time. At the top, he held a flag for the Principality of Sealand. This was to show his support for the tiny "micronation."

On 12 May 2016, Kenton, at 42 years old, reached the top of Everest with two Sherpas and another Briton, Robert Lucas. They were the first foreign climbers to reach the summit in two years. On 15 May 2022, Kenton broke his own record by reaching the summit of Mount Everest for the 16th time. This was the most climbs by any non-Sherpa climber. He was wearing a special hand-painted helmet by artist Teddy McDonald. On 17 May 2023, Kenton broke his record again with his 17th Everest summit, guiding Richard Walker to the top. Kenton broke his own record once more by climbing Everest for the 18th time on 12 May 2024.

Major Climbing Routes

Kenton Cool has completed many important climbing routes around the world. Here are some of them:

Climbing route ascents
Mountain/location Route Ascent info.
Mount Hunter Alaska Moonflower Buttress 1st British ascent
Mount Hunter Alaska Mini Moonflower 1st ascent
Denali Alaska Extra Terrestrial Brothers, Father and Son's Wall 1st ascent
Denali Alaska Denali Diamond, SW Face 2nd ascent
Arwa Spire India East Ridge, East Spire 1st ascent
Annapurna III Nepal SW Ridge 1st ascent
L'Olan, Ecrins, France L'Olan couloir 1st ascent

Kenton on TV

Kenton Cool has appeared in several television shows about his climbs.

Eiger Expedition Documentary

During his Eiger expedition in 2007, ITN set up a special broadcast. This allowed Kenton, Sir Ranulph Fiennes, and Ian Parnell to talk live from the mountain face to the ITN News studio. Their climb was shown live on the news for five days. A longer documentary about their successful climb was later shown on BBC Four and The Discovery Channel.

Everest ER Series

Kenton also helped film the five-part BBC Television documentary Everest ER during his 2007 Everest trip. He gave many interviews for the show. He also used special high-altitude cameras to film footage high on the mountain, including from the summit. Everest ER followed Kenton's expedition, including when he reached the summit twice in one week. The show was aired over five weeks on BBC1.

Helping Others: Charitable Work

Kenton Cool is also involved in charity work.

Raising Money for Marie Curie

In March 2007, Kenton was part of a team with Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Ian Parnell. They climbed the north face of the Eiger to raise money for the Marie Curie Eiger Challenge Appeal. Their successful climb raised £1.8 million for the Marie Curie Cancer Care charity. In May 2009, Kenton and Fiennes raised another £2.6 million for the charity during the Everest Challenge Appeal. Kenton even unfurled a Marie Curie flag on the summit of Everest.

Supporting Mountain Porters

Kenton often gives talks for the Royal Geographical Society and other outdoor companies. He also gives speeches at business events. At these events, he strongly supports Porters Progress. This is a foundation that helps the mountain porters in Nepal. Porters Progress is now part of the dZi Foundation.

Everest Summits

Here is a list of all the times Kenton Cool has reached the top of Mount Everest:

  • 15 May 2004
  • 31 May 2005
  • 17 May 2006
  • 17 May 2007
  • 24 May 2007
  • 24 May 2008
  • 21 May 2009
  • 17 May 2010
  • 6 May 2011
  • 25 May 2012
  • 19 May 2013
  • 12 May 2016
  • 16 May 2018
  • 16 May 2019
  • 11 May 2021
  • 14 or 15 May 2022
  • 17 May 2023
  • 12 May 2024

Other Eight-Thousander Summits

Kenton has also climbed other mountains over 8,000 meters high:

  • Manaslu 30 September 2010
  • Lhotse 20 May 2013
  • Lhotse 12 May 2021
  • K2 28 July 2021

See also

  • List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
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