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Castell Coch
Tongwynlais, Cardiff, Wales
Castell Coch 2018.jpg
The main entrance to Castell Coch
Castell Coch is located in Cardiff
Castell Coch
Castell Coch
Coordinates 51°32′09″N 3°15′17″W / 51.5358°N 3.2548°W / 51.5358; -3.2548
Type Gothic revival
Site information
Controlled by Cadw
Condition Intact
Site history
Built Original castle 11th–13th centuries
Rebuilt 1875–91
Built by John Crichton-Stuart
William Burges
In use Open to public
Materials Red sandstone rubble, grey limestone and Pennant sandstone
Events Native Welsh rebellion of 1314
Listed Building – Grade I

Castell Coch (Welsh for 'Red Castle'; Welsh pronunciation: [ˈkas.tɛɬ koːχ]) is a beautiful 19th-century castle built in the Gothic Revival style. It stands proudly above the village of Tongwynlais in South Wales. The first castle on this spot was built by the Normans after 1081. Its purpose was to protect the newly conquered town of Cardiff and control the route along the Taff Gorge.

This early castle was later abandoned. However, its earth mound was reused by Gilbert de Clare. He built a new stone fort between 1267 and 1277. This was to control the Welsh lands he had recently taken over. This stone castle might have been destroyed during a Welsh rebellion in 1314. In 1760, the castle ruins became part of the estates of John Stuart, 3rd Earl of Bute.

John Crichton-Stuart, 3rd Marquess of Bute, inherited the castle in 1848. He was one of Britain's richest men. He loved architecture and old things. He hired the famous architect William Burges to rebuild the castle. Bute wanted it as a "country residence for occasional occupation in the summer." Burges rebuilt the outside of the castle from 1875 to 1879. Then he started on the inside. Burges died in 1881, but his team finished the work in 1891. Bute also started growing grapes for wine again in Britain, right below the castle. Wine was made there until the First World War.

The 3rd Marquess didn't use his new castle much. In 1950, his grandson, the 5th Marquess of Bute, gave it to the state. Today, the Welsh heritage agency Cadw looks after it.

Castell Coch's outside look and its amazing Victorian interiors have been highly praised. Historian David McLees called it "one of the greatest Victorian triumphs of architectural composition." The outside looks very much like a 13th-century castle. However, Burges added dramatic conical roofs to its three towers. These make it look more like castles in Europe, such as Chillon, than typical British ones. The inside rooms are richly decorated. They have special furniture and designs. These designs often use symbols from classical stories and legends. Joseph Mordaunt Crook said the castle was like "a fairy-tale castle which seems almost to have materialised from the margins of a medieval manuscript."

The Castell Coch beech woods around the castle are special. They have rare plants and unusual rocks. They are protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

History of Castell Coch

Early Castles (11th–14th centuries)

Return from market - Castell Coch
Julius Caesar Ibbetson's 1808 painting of the medieval ruins, based on his 1792 watercolour

The first castle at Castell Coch was likely built after 1081. This was during the Norman invasion of Wales. It was one of eight forts built to defend Cardiff. It also controlled the route along the Taff Gorge. This early castle was an earth mound, called a motte. It was about 35 metres (115 ft) wide at the bottom. It was protected by steep slopes. This first castle was probably left empty after 1093.

In 1267, Gilbert de Clare took over lands near Senghenydd. He held the Lordship of Glamorgan. Caerphilly Castle was built to control this new area. Castell Coch was important because it was between Cardiff and Caerphilly. So, it was used again. A new stone castle was built around the old earth mound. It had a circular wall, a round tower, a gatehouse, and a hall. More work was done between 1268 and 1277. Two large towers and a turning bridge for the gatehouse were added.

When Gilbert died, the castle went to his wife, Joan. Around this time, it was called Castrum Rubeum. This is Latin for "the Red Castle." It was likely named after the red sandstone walls. Gilbert's son, also named Gilbert, inherited it in 1307. He died in 1314 at the Battle of Bannockburn. This led to a Welsh uprising. Castell Coch was probably destroyed by the rebels in July 1314. It was not rebuilt and the site was left empty.

Bute Family Takes Over (15th–19th centuries)

Ruins and Rediscovery

Castell Coch stayed in ruins for a long time. In 1536, a historian named John Leland said it was "all in ruin, no big thing but high." The artist Julius Caesar Ibbetson painted the castle in 1792. His painting showed a prominent tower and other remains.

The ruins were bought by the Earls of Bute in 1760. This happened when John Stuart, the 3rd Earl, married Lady Charlotte Windsor. Her lands in South Wales were added to his family's estates. John's grandson, John Crichton-Stuart, developed the Cardiff Docks. This made the Bute family very rich from the coal industry.

The 3rd Marquess of Bute, another John Crichton-Stuart, inherited the castle in 1848. He was a child then. When he grew up, he became one of the wealthiest men in the world. He was interested in old buildings and history. In 1850, a historian named George Clark studied Castell Coch. He published the first major work about the castle. The ruins were covered in rubble and plants. Clark suggested the castle should be preserved.

In 1871, Bute asked his engineer, John McConnochie, to clear the ruins. William Burges, an architect who loved medieval buildings, then wrote a report. Burges had met Bute in 1865. He was already working on Cardiff Castle for Bute. Burges's report offered two choices: either keep the ruins as they were, or rebuild the castle. Bute chose to rebuild Castell Coch in a Gothic Revival style.

Rebuilding the Fairy-Tale Castle

Burges's intent for Castell Coch, 1874
William Burges's plans for the reconstruction, showing the surviving medieval features (bottom) and his intentions for the new building (top)

The rebuilding of Castell Coch started in 1875. This was after work at Cardiff Castle was well underway. The Kitchen Tower, Hall Block, and outer wall were rebuilt first. Then came the Well Tower and Gatehouse. The Keep Tower was last. Burges's plans for the rebuilding are still kept at Mount Stuart. He also made many wooden and plaster models.

Reconstruction of Castell Coch, 1875
Reconstruction of the castle in 1875, with a temporary bridge across the ditch (left) and the ruined Well Tower (right)

Most of the outside work was finished by 1879. The castle looked very much like Burges's original plans. George Clark continued to give Burges advice on historical details. Burges even tested how the drawbridge and portcullis would work.

Burges had a team of skilled craftspeople. Many had worked with him before. John Chapple designed most of the furniture. William Frame managed the building work. Horatio Lonsdale painted many murals. His main sculptor was Thomas Nicholls.

Lord Bute decided to start growing grapes for wine in Britain again in 1873. He planted a 1.2-hectare (3-acre) vineyard below the castle in 1875. At first, the harvests were small. By 1887, they produced 3,000 bottles of sweet white wine. By 1894, they were making 40 hogsheads of wine each year. This included a red made from Gamay grapes.

Burges died in 1881. He caught a severe chill while visiting the castle. His brother-in-law, Richard Pullan, took over. He gave most of the work to William Frame. Frame finished the interior work in 1891. Bute and his wife, Gwendolen, helped decide on the interior details.

The castle was not used very often after it was finished. The Marquess rarely visited. It was probably meant for short, informal stays, like after picnics. It had grand reception rooms but only three bedrooms. It was also too far from Cardiff for quick visits.

Modern Times (20th–21st centuries)

Castell Coch courtyard
The courtyard

Lord Bute died in 1900. His wife, the Marchioness, could live at Castell Coch for the rest of her life. She and her daughter visited sometimes. The castle vineyards stopped producing wine during the First World War. This was because sugar was needed for the fermentation process. The vineyards were removed in 1920. John, the 4th Marquess, got the castle in 1932. He didn't use it much.

The 5th Marquess of Bute, another John, inherited the castle in 1947. In 1950, he gave it to the Ministry of Works. He also gave Cardiff Castle to the city. The paintings from Castell Coch were moved to Cardiff. The National Museum of Wales provided other paintings for Castell Coch.

Since 1984, Cadw, a Welsh Government agency, has looked after the castle. It is open to the public. It usually gets between 50,000 and 75,000 visitors each year. The Drawing Room can even be used for wedding ceremonies.

The castle has been used for filming many movies and TV shows. These include The Black Knight (1954), The Worst Witch (1998), and Doctor Who.

Because of its exposed location, the castle sometimes gets damp. So, it needs regular repairs. The roof tiles were replaced in 1972. Major work was done on the Keep in 2007. In 2011, work was done in Lady Bute's Bedroom to fix damp problems. Many of the original furnishings were removed in 1950. But most have been found and returned to their places. Two stained-glass panels from the chapel were lost in 1901. They were found at an auction in 2010. Cadw bought them in 2011.

Architecture of Castell Coch

Castle Design

Castell Coch is located in a wooded area above Tongwynlais village. It is about 10.6 kilometres (6.6 mi) north-west of Cardiff. Its style is High Victorian Gothic Revival. It was influenced by French castle restorations of the time. The castle combines parts of the old medieval castle with new 19th-century additions. Historian Charles Kightly called it "the crowning glory of the Gothic Revival" in Britain. John V. Hiling said Castell Coch and Cardiff Castle are "the most remarkable domestic buildings to be resurrected in the nineteenth century." The castle is a Grade I listed building. This means it is very important for its architecture and history.

Outside Features

Diagram of Castell Coch
Diagram of the castle in the 21st century:
  • A – Kitchen Tower
  • B – Courtyard
  • C – Hall Block
  • D – Well Tower
  • E – Gatehouse
  • F – Keep

The castle has three round towers: the Keep, the Kitchen Tower, and the Well Tower. It also has the Hall Block, the Gatehouse, and an outer wall. These buildings almost completely cover the original earth mound with stone. The older parts of the castle are made of red sandstone rubble and grey limestone. The 19th-century parts use more carefully cut red Pennant sandstone. A ditch is carved out of the rock in front of the Gatehouse.

A wooden bridge, with a drawbridge, leads to the Gatehouse. Burges wanted the bridge to look like medieval ones. He believed they were designed to be easily burned if attacked. The Gatehouse has a wooden defensive structure called a bretèche. Above the entrance, Burges placed a portcullis and a statue of the Madonna and Child. This statue was made by Ceccardo Fucigna.

The Keep is 12 metres (39 ft) wide. The Kitchen Tower is also 12 metres (39 ft) wide. It was originally two stories high. Burges made it taller and added a conical roof and chimneys. The walls of these two towers are about 3.0 metres (10 ft) thick at the bottom. They get thinner to 0.61 metres (2 ft) at the top. The Well Tower is slightly narrower at 11.5 metres (38 ft) wide. It has a well in its lowest room.

Keep Tower, Castell Coch
The conical roofs of the Well Tower (left) and Keep (right), topped by elaborate weather vanes and chimneys

The towers make the castle's outside look very dramatic. They are almost the same width but have different conical roof designs and heights. They are topped with shiny copper weather vanes. This creates a romantic, fairy-tale look.

The design of the towers was inspired by the French architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. He restored places like Carcassonne and Chillon. While the outside of Castell Coch looks like a 13th-century English castle, the conical roofs are not typical for Britain. They look more like castles in France or Switzerland. Burges chose these roofs mainly for their beautiful effect. He thought they looked "more picturesque" and provided more space inside.

The three towers lead into a small oval courtyard. It sits on top of the earth mound. It is about 19.5 metres (64 ft) long. Galleries and wall-walks run around the inside of the courtyard. Burges rebuilt the outer wall on the north-west side. It is 0.99 metres (3 ft 3 in) thick and has arrow holes and battlements.

Inside Rooms

The Keep, Well Tower, and Kitchen Tower have many rooms. The main ones, called the Castellan's Rooms, are in the Keep. The Hall, Drawing Room, Lord Bute's Bedroom, and Lady Bute's Bedroom are examples of the High Victorian Gothic style. Unlike the outside, which copied 13th-century architecture, the inside was purely Victorian in style.

The Banqueting Hall

Castell Coch - Banqueting Room
The Banqueting Hall

The Banqueting Hall is 6.1 by 9.1 metres (20 by 30 ft) wide. It has a 11-metre (35 ft) ceiling. It takes up the whole first floor of the Hall Block. Burges believed the medieval hall would have been on this floor.

The hall has stenciled ceilings and murals. These murals look like medieval manuscripts. Horatio Lonsdale designed the murals. The furniture was made in Lord Bute's workshops in Cardiff. The room's chimney has a statue carved by Thomas Nicholls. Most historians believe it shows Lucius of Britain. He is said to have founded the diocese of Llandaff nearby.

The Drawing Room

Drawing room walls, Castell Coch
The Drawing Room

The octagonal Drawing Room is on the first and second floors of the Keep. Its ceiling has vaulted stone ribs. These were inspired by Viollet-Le-Duc's work. The room is divided by a minstrels' gallery. Burges wanted to "indulge in a little more ornament" in this room.

The room's decoration is about "the richness of nature and the shortness of life." A fireplace by Thomas Nicholls shows the Three Fates. These Greek goddesses are shown spinning, measuring, and cutting the thread of life. The ceiling has carved butterflies reaching a golden sunburst. Birds fly in a starry sky. Around the room, 58 panels show unique plants. Above them, a mural shows animals from twenty-four of Aesop's Fables. The plants are wild flowers from the Mediterranean. Carved birds, lizards, and other wildlife decorate the doorways.

The Drawing Room is considered one of the most important rooms in the castle. It shows Burges's "romantic vision of the Middle Ages." The ceiling was decorated while Burges was alive. The murals and Lady Bute's Bedroom were finished after he died. Burges's work is High Gothic. The later work has softer colors and a style called Aesthetic movement.

Lord Bute's Bedroom

Lord Bute's Bedroom is smaller and simpler than other rooms. It is above the Winch Room. Bute's original plan was to have his bedroom in the Keep. But the Drawing Room was made double-height. So, the plan changed. The bedroom has a beautifully carved fireplace. Doors lead to a balcony overlooking the courtyard. The furniture was mostly designed by John Chapple.

This bedroom uses simple, stenciled patterns on the walls. It would not have been practical for daily use. It lacked wardrobes and other storage.

Lady Bute's Bedroom

Castell Coch - Lady Bute's bedroom
Lady Bute's Bedroom

Lady Bute's Bedroom is on the upper two floors of the Keep. It has a coffered, double-dome ceiling. This ceiling rises into the tower's conical roof. The room was finished after Burges died. His team tried to follow his ideas for the room. Horatio Lonsdale did the interior decoration. Bute and his wife were very involved.

The room is round. It is richly decorated with the theme of love. There are carved monkeys, pomegranates, and grapevines on the ceiling. Nesting birds top the pillars. Above the fireplace is a winged statue of Psyche. She is the Greek goddess of the soul. She carries a heart-shaped shield with the Bute family crest. The washbasin has a dragon tap. The Marchioness's red and gold bed is the most famous piece of furniture. It was copied from a medieval design.

The bedroom has a Moorish style. This was popular in Victorian design. It reminds some of scenes from the Arabian Nights.

Other Rooms

The Windlass Room, or Winch Room, is in the Gatehouse. It has a working machine to operate the drawbridge and the portcullis. The Windlass Room also has murder holes. Burges thought these would let medieval people pour boiling water and oil on attackers.

An oratory, or small chapel, was on the roof of the Well Tower. It was removed before 1891. It had twenty stained glass windows. Ten are at Cardiff Castle, and ten are at Castell Coch. Two missing windows were returned in 2011. Other rooms include Lady Margaret Bute's Bedroom, the servants' hall, and the kitchen.

Interior Design Details

Surrounding Landscape – A Special Scientific Site

Castle Coch from A470
View of the castle and the surrounding beech woodland in December 2012

The woods around the castle are called the Taff Gorge complex. They are some of the most western natural beech woodlands in the British Isles. They have rare plants like dog's mercury, ramsons, and bird's-nest orchid. The area also has unusual rock formations. These show where Devonian Old Red Sandstone and Carboniferous Limestone rocks meet. This area is protected as the Castell Coch Woodlands and Road Section Site of Special Scientific Interest.

The woods above the castle are open to the public. People use them for walking, mountain biking, and horse riding. To the southeast of the castle, there is a nine-hole golf course. This used to be the vineyard.

See also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Castell Coch para niños

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