San Adrian (tunnel) facts for kids
Quick facts for kids San Adrian tunnel |
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![]() Northern access to the San Adrian tunnel
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Location | Aizkorri-Aratz Natural Park, Gipuzkoa, Basque Country, Spain |
Entrances | 2 |
Type | Cultural |
Criteria | ii, iv, vi |
Designated | 2015 |
Part of | Routes of Santiago de Compostela: Camino Francés and Routes of Northern Spain |
Reference no. | 669bis-017 |
Region | Europe and North America |
The San Adrian tunnel (also known as Lizarrate) is a special natural cave in the Basque Country of Spain. It's a famous part of the historic Way of St. James, a very old route for pilgrims. This tunnel was naturally carved out of rock by water over many years. It has an opening on both the north and south sides, and there's even a small church, called an hermitage, inside! The tunnel acts like a natural border, separating the provinces of Gipuzkoa and Álava/Araba.
For a long time, this area was where the Spanish and Basque languages met. The village just south of the tunnel, Zalduondo, mostly spoke Spanish. Today, many hikers use the tunnel to reach nearby mountains, forests, and fields. These include Aratz, Aizkorri, and Urbia, which are great for exploring nature.
Contents
Why is it called San Adrian?
The tunnel has two main names: San Adrian and Lizarrate. The name Lizarrate comes from old Basque words meaning "the stone gate of the cave." This name is still used by local people for the tunnel itself.
The name "San Adrian" came about in an interesting way. The small church inside the tunnel was first dedicated to the "Sancta Trinitate" or Holy Trinity. Over time, people speaking Romance languages (like Spanish) changed this name. They heard the Basque way of saying "Sancta Trinitate" (which sounded like Sandrati or Sandratei) and thought it sounded like "San Adrian."
Saint Adrian is not a common saint in the Basque Country. However, Saint Adrian was very important on the Way of St. James. So, the name San Adrian stuck because of the many pilgrims who passed through. Locals still celebrate Trinity Day (or the Sunday after) every year at the tunnel.
A Look Back in Time
The San Adrian tunnel has been important for a very long time. People started using it a lot in the 13th century. It became a popular route for pilgrimage (religious journeys) and for trading goods. This made the towns along the route grow and develop. However, later on, another route called the the French Way became more popular. This new route was easier, so fewer people used the San Adrian tunnel.
Ancient Uses
Shepherds have used this mountain pass for thousands of years. We know this because archaeologists have found old dolmens (stone tombs) and burial mounds in the area. These show that people lived and traveled here long ago. Even today, sheep still graze on the steep hills around the cave. Some old place names in the area also suggest that other European peoples might have used this pass a very long time ago.
Roman and Early Medieval Times
People sometimes call this path the "Roman way." This is because some believe the Romans built the original road here. It was then kept in good condition during the Middle Ages. The tunnel was a safer route than others at the time. The coastal route was dangerous because of Viking attacks. The southern routes, like the French Way, faced attacks from Muslim groups. This made the lands around Alava and the San Adrian tunnel a more secure choice for travelers. Old coins and buckles found in the tunnel confirm that people used it often even before the 13th century.
Later Middle Ages
After taking control of the Alava and Gipuzkoa regions from Navarre, King Alfonso X of Castile wanted people to use this route more. It connected Castile to Gascony (in France) by land. To help trade and strengthen his control, the king founded new towns in 1256. These towns included Salvatierra, Segura, and Villafranca (Ordizia). These towns offered shelter and safety, making the route popular with pilgrims.
More Recent Times
Even though the easier the French Way became popular, the San Adrian tunnel route was still used a lot in the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. Kings of Castile encouraged its use because the French Way was in Navarre, which they didn't fully control until 1521. Travelers from Europe often wrote about their journeys through the tunnel during this time.
A mapmaker named Jan Janssonius wrote in the 1600s that the San Adrian pass was "rugged and difficult for horses." He also mentioned that travelers often carved their names and the date into the tunnel's stones. In 1567, Jorge Braun described the nice inn inside the tunnel. It offered good food to pilgrims, especially those with money, and even fed horses for free. Another traveler in 1572 said the cave was "dark and frightening." But he also mentioned the hermitage and a governor's house, which offered safety and preaching for travelers. It is said that King Enrique IV of Castile and his sister Queen Isabel I of Castile crossed the tunnel. Legend also says that Emperor Charles V first got off his horse at this cave when traveling from Germany to Spain.
Since the Middle Ages, people had to pay tolls to pass through the tunnel because it was on a border. However, smugglers sometimes avoided the tunnel at night. They would climb a narrow path called Ochoa Arrate over the rock. In those days, robbers were a danger in the area. Travelers were often scared of the wild surroundings where bandits could hide. The care provided inside the tunnel was very welcome. Many travelers wrote about the cozy inn, pilgrims singing, and the "fat woman" who served them. Above the north entrance, a fortress protected the pass. A traveler in the 1600s said it could hold 100 soldiers. Fresh water also flowed from the stone wall inside the tunnel, which was much appreciated by travelers.
Over time, other routes became more important. In 1612, a traveler noted that the San Adrian pass was "good only for people on horse or on foot." This was because carriage roads went through other towns. However, the tunnel route was still used a lot until the late 1700s. In 1765, a new King's Highway was built from Madrid to France. This new road caused traffic to shift, and the San Adrian tunnel route slowly became less important.
Exploring the Surroundings
The San Adrian cave is located at 1,005 meters (about 3,297 feet) high. It sits in the lowest point between the tall mountains of Aizkorri (1,528 m) and Aratz (1,442 m). All around the cave, you'll find large beech forests, which turn a beautiful brown in autumn. As you go higher, especially from the north, you'll see more limestone rocks.
Here are the most common ways hikers can reach the tunnel:
- From the Gipuzkoa side: Start at the small village of Otzaurte (652 m). A concrete path begins from the main road (GI-2637, between Zegama and Altsasu) and goes south. This path divides the waters that flow to the Mediterranean Sea from those that go north to the Atlantic Ocean. The path winds through the beech forest. Hikers can follow red and white GR signs. After a while, you'll reach the Beunda/e pass (about 20 minutes), which looks out over a wild valley. The path then goes west. At Aldaola (about 50 minutes), a path goes up west. If you continue west, you'll find a steep, wet slope on your left (with red and white GR signs) that leads to a wide path near a refuge (about 1 hour 5 minutes). From there, you can see the San Adrian tunnel. A gentle path then goes west to the cave, joining the old cobblestone St. James roadway from Zegama (about 1 hour 20 minutes total).
- From the Alava side: Start at the carpark in Zumarraundi (Zalduondo). Many paths go north through the thick beech forest. You can easily spot parts of the old medieval road winding up (about 20 minutes) to the highest point of the pass, called Alto de la Horca (about 35 minutes). This name means "Gallows Hill," because a gallows used to be there. Going down into a hollow, the medieval path leads north past the Ezkaratza spring on the right (about 45 minutes). You will then reach the tunnel (about 55 minutes total).
Pilgrims coming from Zegama follow the pilgrimage path. It starts on a paved road (GI-2637) and then turns onto a concrete path that goes up on the right. You'll see signs all along the way. As you get close to the San Adrian tunnel, you'll see the small Sancti Spiritus hermitage (church) on the left. Some people think it might have belonged to the Templar Knights, but this is not certain.
See also
In Spanish: Túnel de San Adrián para niños