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Speyer Cathedral
The Imperial Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption and St Stephen
Dom zu Unserer lieben Frau in Speyer
Speyer dom 11.jpg
49°19′02″N 8°26′33″E / 49.3172°N 8.4424°E / 49.3172; 8.4424
Location Speyer
Country Germany
Denomination Roman Catholic
History
Founded 1030
Founder(s) Conrad II
Consecrated 1061
Architecture
Functional status Cathedral
Heritage designation UNESCO World Heritage Site
Style Romanesque
Administration
Diocese Diocese of Speyer

The Speyer Cathedral, also known as the Imperial Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption and St Stephen, is a huge church in Speyer, Germany. Its official Latin name is Domus sanctae Mariae Spirae. It is the main church for the Roman Catholic Bishop of Speyer.

This amazing building was started in 1030 by Conrad II. It has a grand design with three aisles and high arched ceilings. The cathedral is made of red sandstone. It was very important for Romanesque architecture in the 11th and 12th centuries. Many emperors and kings were buried here, making it a symbol of their power.

Speyer Cathedral is the largest Romanesque church still standing today. It is seen as a major turning point in European architecture. In 1981, UNESCO added it to its World Heritage List. This means it is a very important cultural site.

History and Architecture of Speyer Cathedral

Building the Cathedral in the Middle Ages

Plan and interior
Plan showing the "double-bay" system
Inside the main hall looking east

In 1025, Emperor Conrad II ordered the building of the biggest church in the Western world. He wanted it to be his final resting place. Construction began in 1030 on a high area near the Rhine river. The red sandstone used for the church came from the nearby Palatine Forest.

Neither Conrad II nor his son Henry III saw the cathedral finished. Conrad II died in 1039 and was buried there while it was still being built. Henry III was buried next to him in 1056. Their graves were placed in the main aisle, near the altar.

The cathedral was almost finished and officially opened in 1061. This first building phase, called Speyer I, had a large entrance area called a Westwerk. It also had a main hall (nave) with two side aisles and a cross-shaped section (transept). The main altar area (choir) had two towers. The main hall had a flat wooden ceiling. This made it the second largest vaulted building north of the Alps. It was a stunning example of early Romanesque design.

Around 1090, Emperor Henry IV, Conrad's grandson, decided to make the cathedral even bigger. He had the eastern parts taken down. The foundations were made stronger, going eight meters deep. Only the lower levels and the crypt from Speyer I remained. The main hall was raised by five meters. The flat wooden ceiling was replaced with a groin vault ceiling. This was a huge step forward in Romanesque architecture.

Each part of the new vaulted ceiling covered two sections of the building. Every second support pillar was made wider. This created a system of inner supports. This "double-bay system" was copied in many churches along the Rhine. The new vaulted ceilings allowed for clerestory windows. These windows let in more light without making the building weak. The inside of the church became very grand and powerful.

SpeyererDom SchraudolphGemälde
Details of the main hall, with paintings by Johann Schraudolph

During these changes, a special feature was added: an outside dwarf gallery. This is an arched walkway built into the wall, just below the roofline. It wraps around the top of the apse, which is the rounded end of the church. This feature became very popular in Romanesque churches. It was copied in places like Worms Cathedral and Mainz Cathedral. The cathedral looked much more detailed and impressive after these changes.

The expanded cathedral, called Speyer II, was finished in 1106. This was the year Henry IV died. It was one of the largest buildings of its time. It was 134 meters long and 43 meters wide. Building such a huge and magnificent church in a small village like Speyer was a strong statement. The emperor wanted to show his power, not just over the land but also over the church. This was part of a big conflict with the Pope. Henry IV was buried in the cathedral in 1111, after his excommunication was lifted.

The cathedral stayed mostly the same for many centuries. The last ruler was buried here in 1308. Eight emperors and kings, along with some of their wives, found their final rest in the cathedral:

These rulers were all kings of Germany. To be called a Holy Roman Emperor, they needed to be crowned by the Pope. Sometimes, the Pope and the German king did not get along. So, some kings were not crowned "Imperator Romanum" (Holy Roman Emperor). But they were still very powerful rulers. Many of Speyer's bishops and other royal family members are also buried here.

Changes in the Modern Era

View from south west
View showing the original westwork in 1606
The new westwork by Heinrich Hübsch, 1854–1858

The cathedral survived the Thirty Years' War (1618–1648) without much damage. But during the Nine Years' War (1688–97), French troops attacked Speyer. People tried to save their belongings by hiding them in the cathedral. But on May 31, 1689, soldiers broke in. They looted the royal graves and set the church on fire. Almost the entire town of Speyer burned down that day. The heat caused the western part of the cathedral's main hall to collapse.

Speyer wiener zeichnung
Wiener Zeichnung (Vienna Sketch, 1610) showing a Gothic addition

For nearly a century, only the eastern part of the cathedral was used. From 1748 to 1772, the building was repaired. The Romanesque main hall was rebuilt. However, the western entrance (westwork) was rebuilt in the Baroque style. There wasn't enough money to rebuild the whole cathedral in the new style.

Speyer vor 1750
Speyer before 1750, showing damage from 1689

In 1792, French revolutionary troops took over Speyer again. The cathedral was looted once more. During the Napoleonic Wars (1803 to 1815), the cathedral was used as a stable and storage area. In 1806, the French even thought about tearing it down for building materials. Luckily, the bishop of Mainz stopped them. Later, during battles, the cathedral was used as a hospital for wounded soldiers.

After the Congress of Vienna in 1815, Speyer became part of Bavaria. King Ludwig I of Bavaria ordered new paintings for the inside walls. These were done by Johann von Schraudolph and Joseph Schwarzmann from 1846 to 1853. From 1854 to 1858, Ludwig's son, King Maximilian II, replaced the Baroque westwork. He had a new one built in the Neo-Romanesque style. This new westwork had two tall towers and an octagonal dome. It looked like the original Romanesque design. This helped the cathedral look Romanesque again.

The new westwork and interior decorations were seen as a great achievement in the 19th century. However, by the early 1900s, opinions changed. Some art historians felt the 19th-century changes were not good for the cathedral.

The graves of the emperors and kings were originally in the main aisle. Over time, their exact locations were forgotten. In 1900, a large excavation found the graves. The identities of the rulers were confirmed. Some items from the graves, like clothing, are now in a museum nearby. The restored coffins were moved to a new crypt under the main altar in 1906. This crypt is now open to visitors.

Starting in 1957, the cathedral underwent major restorations. The goal was to make the building safe and bring back its original look inside. Some of the plaster and 19th-century paintings were removed from the walls. However, 24 paintings showing the life of the Virgin Mary were kept. These are between the windows of the main hall.

Speyer Cathedral Today

Speyer Cathedral
The eastern end, showing the gallery

Speyer Cathedral still has the same general shape and size as it did in the 11th century. Even with many changes and repairs over the years, it remains a complete Romanesque building. Its design set a standard for other churches in the Rhineland region. It has a tall main hall with side aisles. There is a domed area where the main hall crosses the transept, ending in a rounded chancel (altar area).

The western end has a detailed structure called a "Westwerk." This includes the main entrance. This feature is common in many Romanesque churches in Germany. The building's shape is balanced by two pairs of tall towers. These towers frame the main hall at the west and the chancel at the east. They create a strong, sculptural look with the domes at each end.

The outside of the cathedral looks very unified. Speyer has the earliest example in Germany of a colonnaded dwarf gallery. This gallery goes around the entire building, just below the roof. The same type of gallery is also on the eastern and western domes. The openings in the gallery match the windows in the towers. Both domes are octagonal. The towers have "Rhenish helm" spires, which are pyramid-shaped roofs. The main hall, towers, and domes are covered with copper. This copper has turned a pale green color over time. This contrasts with the pinkish-red stone of the building.

Inside, the main hall has two open levels. It features simple, rounded Romanesque arches. The main arches are supported by simple pillars. Each pillar has a wide attached shaft. These shafts support the stone arches of the high vaulted ceiling. The square sections formed by these vaults are plastered. Most of the 19th-century plasterwork has been removed from the walls. However, a series of colorful murals showing the Life of the Virgin remain. These are between the windows of the main hall.

The cathedral recently had major restorations. These cost about 26 million Euros. Also, the frescos by Johann Schraudolph, which were removed in the 1950s, have been restored. They are now displayed in the "Kaisersaal" (Emperor's Hall) of the cathedral.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site

In April 1981, Speyer Cathedral was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List. This list includes culturally important places around the world. The International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS) explained why it was chosen: "The cathedral of Speyer, along with those in Worms and Mayence (Mainz), is a very important example of Romanesque art in the German Empire. It is the largest and most important because of its size. It is also important because of its history, as the Salian emperors chose it as their burial place." ICOMOS also noted that the building shows how ideas about restoring old buildings have changed since the 17th century.

Cathedral Dimensions

  • Total length: 134 meters (from the entrance steps to the outside wall of the east apse)
  • Outside width of the main hall (with side aisles): 37.62 meters (from outside wall to outside wall)
  • Inside width of the main hall: 14 meters
  • Height of the main hall at the top of the vaults: 33 meters
  • Height of the eastern spires (pointed roofs): 71.20 meters
  • Height of the western spires: 65.60 meters
  • Crypt Length: east-west 35 meters; north-south 46 meters
  • Crypt Height: between 6.2 meters and 6.5 meters

Special Features of Speyer Cathedral

The Crypt

Dehio 48 Speyer Crypt
Layout of the crypt of Speyer Cathedral
SpeyererDomKrypta
The crypt of Speyer Cathedral

Over many centuries, crypts (underground rooms) grew from small spaces to large, detailed halls. The crypt of Speyer Cathedral is a huge example. It was officially opened in 1041. It is the largest Romanesque crypt with columns in Europe. It covers an area of 850 square meters and is about 7 meters high.

Forty-two arched ceilings are supported by twenty round columns. These columns have simple, rounded tops. The stone blocks in the crypt change color between yellow and rust. This was a common design during the Salian and Staufer periods. The crypt's design is very clear and precise.

Chapels

SpeyerCathedralAfraChapel1
Double chapel of Saint Emmeram and Saint Catherine, upper level with opening to the bottom

On the south side of the cathedral is a double chapel. This means it has two chapels built one on top of the other. These are dedicated to Saint Emmeram (also known as Saint Martin) and Saint Catherine. The idea of a double chapel was common by the end of the 11th century. It was often used in chapels for emperors and bishops.

Construction of this chapel in Speyer began around 1050. Saint Catherine's chapel was built to celebrate the birthday of Henry III's daughter. She was named after Saint Catherine of Alexandria. In 1961, the chapel was restored to its original double-chapel design. The two chapels are connected by an opening in the middle. Today, Saint Emmeram's chapel is used for baptisms.

On the north side of the cathedral is the chapel of Saint Afra. She was an early Christian martyr. Emperor Henry IV had this chapel built in her honor. He was born on her special day. Henry IV was buried in this chapel from 1106 to 1111. This was while he was excommunicated (banned from the church). After the ban was lifted, his body was moved to the main crypt. During restoration work in 1971, a piece of an old Bible was found in the chapel. Today, the Saint Afra Chapel is used as a tabernacle.

In the past, there were five other chapels on the north side of the cathedral. These included chapels for Saint Paul, Saint Agnes, Saint Bernard, Saint Henry, and Saint Mary. Saint Mary's chapel was added in 1475. The ruins of these chapels were removed in the 18th century.

Bells

The cathedral has nine bells. The four largest bells were made in 1822. The five smaller ones were made in 1963. All the bells are in the western dome of the cathedral. In Germany, bells are numbered from largest to smallest. Bell 1 is the largest. The four largest bells also tell time. Bells 4 and 3 ring every 15 minutes. Bells 2 and 1 ring for the full hour.

No. Name Nominal Diameter
(mm)
Weight
(kg)
1 Maximilianus Josephus (Emperor Bell) G0 5350 208
2 Friderica Wilhelmina Carolina B♭0 2600 175
3 Ludovicus Carolus D♭1 1650 147
4 Matthaeus de Chandelle F1 600 115
5 Saint Mary's Bell A♭1 601 95.5
6 Saint Joseph's Bell B♭1 494 90.3
7 Saint Anne's Bell D♭2 440 83.3
8 Saint Pirmin's Bell E♭2 312 75
9 Otto F2 217 66.7

Surroundings of the Cathedral

151226-Speyer-Dom-06
Heidentürmchen

The cathedral used to be surrounded by many other buildings. To the south, there was a cloister (a covered walkway around a courtyard). In the middle of this cloister was a sculpture of the Mount of Olives. On the north side was the grand residence of the bishop. Other buildings included a chapter house, rectory, and parts of the town's defenses. Most of these buildings disappeared after the French Revolution. Today, you can see the outline of the old cloister in the pavement.

The Mount of Olives sculpture was damaged in the 1689 fire. It was left in ruins after the cloister was removed in 1820. Later, a roof was added to protect it. A local sculptor helped repair the figures. Inside the mount is a small chapel dedicated to the Archangel Michael.

In the square at the western end of the cathedral is a large stone bowl. It is known as the Domnapf (Cathedral Bowl). This bowl used to mark the border between the bishop's land and the town's land. When a new bishop was chosen, he had to fill the bowl with wine. The townspeople would then drink it to celebrate him.

Heidentürmchen (Heathen Tower)

The Heidentürmchen is a remaining part of the medieval town walls. It is a tower and a section of the wall. It stands a little to the east of the cathedral. It used to be right by the Rhine river, at the edge of a marshy area once called "heath."

Hall of Antiques (Antikenhalle)

The Hall of Antiques was built north of the cathedral. It was meant to hold Roman artifacts found in the cathedral area. It was built in a classical style but turned out to be too small. Later, cannons captured in the Franco-Prussian War (1870-71) were displayed there. Today, it serves as a memorial for those who died in the two World Wars.

German Postage Stamps featuring Speyer Cathedral

See also

  • Roman Catholic Marian churches
  • List of regional characteristics of Romanesque churches
  • List of tallest domes
  • Bamberg Cathedral
  • Worms Cathedral
  • Mainz Cathedral
  • History of medieval Arabic and Western European domes
  • List of cathedrals in Germany
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