Conrad Anker facts for kids
Quick facts for kids
Conrad Anker
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Conrad Anker photo from Yellowstone National Park flier
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| Born | November 27, 1962 California, United States
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| Alma mater | University of Utah, Northumbria University |
| Occupation | Rock climber, mountaineer, author |
| Spouse(s) | Jennifer Lowe (m. 2001; div. 2024) |
Conrad Anker, born on November 27, 1962, is a famous American rock climber, mountaineer, and author. He was the leader of The North Face climbing team for 26 years, until 2018. In 1999, he made a big discovery on Mount Everest. He found the body of George Mallory, a British climber who disappeared in 1924.
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Conrad Anker's Climbing Adventures
Conrad Anker has had an amazing career exploring some of the world's toughest mountains. He is known for his skill and bravery in climbing.
Finding George Mallory on Everest
In 1999, Conrad Anker was part of a special team searching for George Mallory on Mount Everest. Mallory was a famous climber who tried to reach the summit of Everest in 1924 but never returned. Anker's team found Mallory's body high up on the mountain. This discovery was a huge moment in climbing history.
Later, in 2007, Anker went back to Everest with another climber, Leo Houlding. They wanted to learn more about Mallory's last climb. They followed the path Mallory and his partner, Andrew Irvine, might have taken. They even climbed the difficult Second Step without using the fixed ladder that is there now. This helped them understand if Mallory could have climbed it back in 1924.
Leading The North Face Team
Conrad Anker was the leader of The North Face climbing team for a long time. He led the team for 26 years, from 1992 until 2018. This team is made up of some of the best climbers in the world.
Conrad Anker's Life
Conrad Anker lives in Bozeman, Montana. He has faced challenges, even during his climbing career.
Health and Retirement from High Altitude Climbing
In 2016, Conrad Anker had a heart attack while trying to climb a mountain called Lunag Ri. He was climbing with David Lama at the time. He was quickly flown by helicopter to a hospital in Kathmandu, Nepal. Doctors performed a special procedure to help his heart. After this, he decided to stop climbing at very high altitudes. However, he still continues his other work and adventures.
Amazing Climbs and Expeditions
Conrad Anker has completed many difficult and important climbs around the world. Here are some of his notable achievements:
- 1987: First Ascent of the Southeast Face of Gurney Peak in Alaska.
- 1989: First Ascent of the Northwest Face of Mount Hunter in Alaska.
- 1990: First Ascent of Rodeo Queen in Zion National Park, Utah.
- 1994: First Ascent of Badlands on Torre Egger in Patagonia, a very challenging climb.
- 1997: Solo climb of The Northwest Face of Peak Loretan in Antarctica.
- 1997: First Ascent of Rakekniven Peak in Antarctica with Alex Lowe and Jon Krakauer. This climb was featured in National Geographic Magazine.
- 1997: First Ascent of Tsering Mosong on Latok II in Pakistan.
- 1999: Joined the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition on Mount Everest.
- 1999: Survived a huge avalanche during the Shishapangma American Ski Expedition in Tibet. Sadly, his climbing partner Alex Lowe and cameraman David Bridges died in the avalanche.
- 2001: First Ascent of the East Face of Vinson Massif in Antarctica. This was shown on the PBS show NOVA.
- 2002: Went on a National Geographic expedition across the Changtang Plateau in Tibet.
- 2005: Reached the summit of Cholatse in Nepal.
- 2007: Led the Altitude Everest Expedition 2007, climbing Everest for a second time.
- 2011: First Ascent of the Shark's Fin route on Meru Peak with Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk.
- 2012: Led the "Everest Education Expedition" and reached the summit of Everest for a third time, this time without extra oxygen.
Conrad Anker has also climbed many famous routes in places like Yosemite Valley in California, Zion National Park in Utah, Baffin Island in Canada, and the Ellsworth Mountains in Antarctica.
Films Featuring Conrad Anker
Conrad Anker has been part of several exciting documentary films about climbing and adventure:
- Shackleton's Antarctic Adventure (2001)
- Light of the Himalaya (2006): This film shows doctors helping people with blindness in the Himalayas, with climbers also reaching a high peak.
- The Endless Knot (2007): This film tells the story of the avalanche in 1999 where Alex Lowe died, and how Conrad Anker later found love with Alex's widow.
- The Wildest Dream (2010): An IMAX film about the search for George Mallory on Everest.
- Meru (2015): A documentary about the challenging climb of the Shark's Fin route on Meru Peak.
- National Parks Adventure (2016): A short IMAX film about the amazing National Park Service in the USA.
- Lunag Ri (2016): A film about Conrad Anker and David Lama's attempt to climb Lunag Ri.
- Black Ice (2020): Features aspiring ice climbers in Montana with mentors like Conrad Anker.
- Torn (2021): A documentary by Max Lowe about his father, Alex Lowe, and the family's journey after his death.
Awards and Honors
Conrad Anker has received many awards for his climbing achievements and contributions:
- 2008: Simon Scott-Harden Award for Environmental Design Excellence
- 2010: David A Brower Award from the American Alpine Club
- 2015: George Mallory Award from the Wasatch Mountain Film Festival
- 2016: Golden Piton Award for Lifetime Achievement from Climbing magazine
- 2017: Honorary Doctorate from the University of Utah
- 2018: Jack Roberts Lifetime Achievements Award from the Cody Ice Festival
