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Conrad Anker
Conrad Anker - 2016.jpg
Conrad Anker photo from Yellowstone National Park flier
Born (1962-11-27) November 27, 1962 (age 62)
California, United States
Alma mater University of Utah, Northumbria University
Occupation Rock climber, mountaineer, author
Spouse(s) Jennifer Lowe-Anker

Conrad Anker (born November 27, 1962) is a famous American rock climber, mountaineer, and author. He was a leader of The North Face climbing team for 26 years. In 1999, he found the body of George Mallory on Mount Everest. Mallory was a British climber who disappeared in 1924.

In 2016, Conrad had a heart attack while climbing Lunag Ri with David Lama. He was flown by helicopter to Kathmandu for emergency surgery. After this, he stopped climbing at very high altitudes. However, he still continues his work and lives in Bozeman, Montana.

Amazing Climbs and Journeys

Conrad Anker has completed many difficult climbs and expeditions around the world. Here are some of his notable achievements:

Early Adventures

  • 1987: He made the first ascent of the Southeast Face of Gurney Peak in the Kichatna Mountains, Alaska.
  • 1989: He achieved the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Mount Hunter in Alaska.
  • 1990: He completed the first ascent of Rodeo Queen at Streaked Wall in Zion National Park, Utah, with Mugs Stump.
  • 1994: He made the first ascent of Badlands on the Southeast Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.

Antarctica and Beyond

Everest and Avalanches

  • 1999: He was part of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition on Mount Everest, where he found George Mallory's body.
  • 1999: He survived a huge avalanche during the Shishapangma American Ski Expedition in Tibet. Sadly, his climbing partner Alex Lowe and cameraman David Bridges were lost in the avalanche.
  • 2001: He made the first ascent of the East Face of Vinson Massif in Antarctica with Jon Krakauer. This was shown on the PBS series NOVA.
  • 2002: He joined a National Geographic expedition to cross the remote Changtang Plateau in Tibet. This journey was featured in National Geographic and a book called The Big Open.

Later Expeditions

  • 2005: He reached the summit of Southwest Ridge, Cholatse in Nepal.
  • 2007: He led the Altitude Everest Expedition 2007, following Mallory's last steps on Everest. He reached the summit for a second time. He also made the first known free climb of the Second Step on Everest.
  • 2011: He made the first ascent of Shark's Fin on Meru Peak with Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk.
  • 2012: He led the "Everest Education Expedition" and reached the summit of Everest for a third time, this time without extra oxygen.

Conrad Anker has also climbed many famous routes in places like Yosemite Valley (California), Zion National Park (Utah), Baffin Island (Canada), and the Ellsworth Mountains in Antarctica.

Films About His Adventures

Conrad Anker has been featured in several exciting documentary films:

  • Shackleton's Antarctic Adventure (2001): A film about an amazing journey in Antarctica.
  • Light of the Himalaya (2006): This film shows doctors helping people with blindness in the Himalayas, with climbers from The North Face team.
  • The Endless Knot (2007): This documentary tells the story of the avalanche in Tibet where Alex Lowe was lost. It also shows how Conrad helped Alex's family and later married Alex's wife, Jennifer.
  • The Wildest Dream (2010): An IMAX film about the search for George Mallory on Mount Everest.
  • Meru (2015): A documentary about the challenging climb of the Shark's Fin route on Meru Peak.
  • National Parks Adventure (2016): A short IMAX film about the amazing National Park Service in the USA.
  • Lunag Ri (2016): A documentary about Conrad Anker and David Lama's attempt to climb Lunag Ri.
  • Black Ice (2020): This film shows aspiring ice climbers traveling to Montana, where Conrad Anker and others share their love for winter mountain adventures.
  • Torn (2021): A documentary by Max Lowe, Alex Lowe's son, about his father's death and the relationship between his mother and Conrad Anker.

Awards and Honors

Conrad Anker has received many awards for his climbing and contributions:

  • 2008: Simon Scott-Harden Award for Environmental Design Excellence – Batch 44
  • 2010: David A Brower Award – American Alpine Club
  • 2015: George Mallory Award – Wasatch Mountain Film Festival
  • 2016: Golden Piton Award [fr] – Lifetime Achievement – Climbing magazine
  • 2017: Honorary Doctorate at the University of Utah
  • 2018: Jack Roberts Lifetime Achievements Award – Cody, WY Ice Festival

See also

  • List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
  • Timex Expedition WS4
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