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Falkland Palace
Falkland Palace from the NW.jpg
General information
Location Falkland, Fife, Scotland
Coordinates 56°15′14″N 3°12′23″W / 56.25389°N 3.20639°W / 56.25389; -3.20639
Falkland Palace, north wing from NW
Falkland Palace, 'East Quarter' from the Courtyard
Falkland Palace South Range
Falkland Palace, 'South Quarter' from the Courtyard

Falkland Palace is a beautiful royal palace in Falkland, Fife, Scotland. It was a favorite home for many Scottish Kings and Queens. One famous resident was Mary, Queen of Scots, who often found peace here away from the political and religious problems of her time.

Today, Ninian Stuart looks after the palace, but he lets the National Trust for Scotland manage most of its daily care. The Chapel Royal inside the palace is a special place dedicated to Thomas the Apostle. It is open to visitors and is still used for Roman Catholic church services.

Discovering Falkland Palace's Past

How Falkland Palace Began

Falkland Palace
Falkland Palace from the gardens
Falkland-Palace-tennis-court
The historic Real tennis court

Long ago, in the late 1100s, there was a royal hunting lodge on this spot. It grew into a castle in the 1200s, owned by the Earls of Fife from the famous Clan MacDuff. The castle was built on a small hill, which made it easy to defend. Over time, the land around it became the palace gardens.

North of the palace, near the River Eden, was a large oak forest. Its trees blended into the parkland. Sometimes, wood from this forest was used to build royal ships.

The castle was surrounded by fields, orchards, and Falkland Park. This park was a managed forest with a fence and ditch, called a "pale." The pale kept wild animals inside for the royal family to hunt. A park keeper made sure the pale was always in good repair.

Early Royal Owners

In 1371, Isabella, Countess of Fife, named Robert Stewart as her heir. He was the son of King Robert II. Robert Stewart became the keeper of Falkland Castle and its forest.

Later, in 1402, Robert Stewart, who was now the Duke of Albany, held his nephew David Stewart, Duke of Rothesay at Falkland. David was the oldest son of King Robert III. Sadly, the Duke died while imprisoned. Even though Albany was cleared of blame by the Scottish Parliament, many people still suspected foul play. These suspicions affected David's younger brother, who would become King James I.

After King James I ordered Albany's son, Murdoch, to be put to death in 1424, James took Falkland for the crown. Falkland became a favorite getaway for all the Stewart kings and queens. They enjoyed falconry and hunting in the huge forests. Red deer and fallow deer were kept in the park for hunting.

Queen Mary of Guelders' Time

James II of Scotland gave Falkland to his wife, Mary of Guelders. The palace became one of her favorite homes. In 1453, the stables and other buildings were fixed, and a new kitchen was built for the royal couple's visits. Seeds for flax, cabbage, onions, and leeks were bought for the garden.

As a widow, Mary of Guelders continued to improve Falkland Palace in 1461–62. Workers built a stairway from her room to a pleasant outdoor area. They also added new stables, a coal shed, and fixed the accounting office. The royal carpenter, Andrew Lesouris, built a "galry" with two rooms. This was one of the first times the word "gallery" was used in Britain.

Outside, two ponds were built in the hay yard. A new lawn was laid near the queen's room, and a door was made so she could easily reach the garden. This was a popular idea at the time for queens in other countries too. Mary of Guelders also had a garden path made between two oak trees, known as "Queen's Quarrels." This name might suggest she enjoyed archery there.

King James III and Queen Margaret of Denmark visited Falkland in September 1473. The royal financial court met at Falkland every year to check the accounts of lands belonging to James's mother, Mary of Guelders. She might have planned to live at Falkland Palace as a widow.

Kings James IV and V Improve the Palace

Between 1497 and 1541, King James IV and King James V changed the old castle into a beautiful royal palace in the renaissance style. King James IV enjoyed oranges at Falkland in April 1497. He also hired stonemasons from Dundee to work on the palace in May 1501.

The king was entertained by musicians, including fiddlers, lutenists, and an African drummer. In 1502, a man brought a live seal to the castle for the king. A new chapel was built in 1512, and masons worked on the Great Hall and garden wall.

King James IV brought deer nets from Kinneil House in 1503 and had a deer pen built in 1505. A trap was even made to "slay foxes in the park." Later, wild boar from France were kept in the park. Dairy cows were also kept to provide food for the castle.

James V and Mary of Guise's Time

As a teenager, King James V was held at Falkland Palace by the Earl of Angus. According to stories, he escaped to Stirling Castle by pretending to go on a deer hunt. He rode away in the middle of the night dressed as a stable hand.

To fix the garden and park, James V appointed William Barclay as the new Captain and Keeper in 1527. In 1534, the Queen's Chamber was decorated with tapestries for Margaret Tudor. From 1537, James V expanded the palace in a French Renaissance style. He also built a Royal Tennis Court in the garden in 1541. This tennis court is still there today and is the oldest in Britain! Mary, Queen of Scots, loved playing tennis here.

The Scottish court often visited Falkland. In 1538 and 1540, new velvet and satin dresses were sent to Falkland as gifts for the Queen's ladies-in-waiting. In 1539, one of Mary of Guise's French friends got married at Falkland. James V also held a tournament there.

Mary of Guise spent time embroidering her husband's shirts with gold thread. She also played cards with James V during their visits. Servants washed the clothes of their infant daughter, Lady Jean Stewart. The royal family also kept pets, looked after by Thomas Melville's wife.

In 1541, a special gold cup was made for their baby son, Prince James. It was sent to Falkland to be used in the palace chapel. Wild boars from France also arrived that month. James V kept a kind of small menagerie (animal collection) at Falkland.

King James V sadly died at Falkland Palace in December 1542. He became ill after his army was defeated at the Battle of Solway Moss. His body stayed in the Chapel Royal for almost a month before being taken to Holyrood Abbey.

Mary, Queen of Scots' Visits

Attributed to Corneille de Lyon - Mary of Guise, 1515 - 1560. Queen of James V - Google Art Project
Mary of Guise, mother of Mary, Queen of Scots, often stayed at Falkland.

Mary, Queen of Scots was born at Linlithgow Palace. Her mother, Mary of Guise, often visited Falkland Palace without her. Falkland was one of Mary of Guise's official homes as a widow, and she continued to keep wild boars for hunting in the park. She frequently stayed at Falkland, especially in the autumn.

Mary of Guise asked the Earl of Bothwell to take her from Falkland to Stirling Castle for a meeting in December 1549. In 1552, Regent Arran, who ruled Scotland for Mary, wondered if Mary of Guise would come from Falkland for a meeting. He thought the palace and town were too small for all the people expected.

A man named John Scrimgeour of Myres managed building work at the Palace from 1532 to 1563. He wrote to Mary of Guise about fixing Falkland's lead roofs, which were delayed by frost. He also needed carts to bring stones and timber to the palace. In 1559, he fixed the stables and palace windows. He also designed new ditches and fences for the garden.

Mary, Queen of Scots, returned from France in September 1561. She hosted diplomats at Falkland. In March 1562, she held a special ceremony at Falkland, washing the feet of 19 young women. The number of women matched her age. Mary came for Easter at Falkland in April 1563 and 1564. She visited Falkland many times.

James VI and Anne of Denmark at Falkland

King James VI of Scotland became an adult ruler in October 1579. For his visits to Falkland, a barrel maker supplied barrels and brewing equipment. In April 1582, James VI made John Killoch and Robert Schaw the keepers of all his tennis courts. They also supplied his tennis balls and rackets. In June 1583, Schaw spent money fixing the court at Falkland.

James VI spent the summer of 1583 at Falkland. In 1584, he had the roofs repaired and asked people in Fife to help carry slates, tiles, timber, sand, and lime to the palace. In July and August 1584, James welcomed a French visitor, Albert Fontenay, at Falkland. He even lent Fontenay a horse for hunting.

James stayed in the palace during a serious illness in July 1585. He ordered people with no business in Falkland to stay away to avoid infection. His guests in Fife that summer included the English ambassador and three Danish visitors.

In August 1586, James VI was at Falkland with a French diplomat. In September, he received books and hunting horses from Elizabeth I of England.

James VI held a meeting at Falkland in September 1587 to discuss his marriage plans. He married the younger Princess Anne of Denmark. He included Falkland in the special "morning gift" he gave to his new wife. In May 1590, Danish visitors rode to Falkland to see the palace and her lands in Fife. They were welcomed by the keeper, James Beaton of Creich.

The next year, another Danish visitor came to Falkland in July 1591. He brought a Danish gentlewoman to join the Queen's household. Around this time, an African servant of Anne of Denmark, known as "the Moir," died and was buried at Falkland.

The Raid on Falkland Palace

On June 28, 1592, Francis Stewart, Earl of Bothwell, and his men tried to capture Falkland Palace and King James VI and Queen Anne. The king had been warned and stayed at Falkland instead of going to Perth.

Bothwell's men tried to break down the back gate but were stopped by gunshots before midnight. The king went to the gatehouse tower, and his guards shot at Bothwell's men. Bothwell gave up the attack at 7 in the morning and rode away with the king's horses. Nine of his men were caught, and some were put to death.

The English border raider Richie Graham and his friends looted the town of Falkland, taking horses, clothes, and money. It was said that Bothwell had encouraged his supporters to harm some of the king's officials.

A month later, there were rumors that Bothwell was coming towards Falkland again. The king prepared for another fight. The Earl of Argyll rode from his wedding party to help the king. Men were called from Edinburgh and other towns to fight the rebel earl. However, it turned out to be a false alarm, possibly to make the king move to a less secure place.

Palace Staff in the 1590s

The royal couple returned to Falkland in 1593. At this time, James Beaton of Creich was the palace keeper. Robert Arnot looked after the park and meadow. He also received local produce, including onions from the palace garden. Andrew Fairny maintained the fences and ditches. The villagers were paid for damage caused by escaped deer. David Murray, the king's stable master, kept the king's horses and stags in the park. George Strathauchin was the palace gardener.

Deer from England

Queen Elizabeth I sent deer for the park in 1586, 1587, and 1591. These were special diplomatic gifts. In May 1586, James VI watched the deer being released into the park. James also asked the English ambassador for some of Elizabeth's huntsmen and horses.

English huntsmen and deer were sent to James VI in August 1586. The ambassador wrote: "I have sent the Kynge two hunting men, verie good and skillful, with one footman, that can hoop, hollow and crye, that all the trees in Fawkland will quake for fear." He also joked, "Pray the Kynge's Majestie to be mercifull to the poor bucks; but let him spare and look well to himself."

In May 1592, the English ambassador went to several castles to catch deer for James VI. He managed to catch only six, which he shipped to Kirkcaldy. In April 1597, a carpenter named James Murray transported 28 English deer from Leith to Falkland. Robin the Hunter kept hounds for James at Falkland. Queen Anne of Denmark also sent deer hounds as gifts to her brother, Christian IV of Denmark.

A Royal Disagreement

James I and VI with his consort, Anne of Denmark. Wellcome M0012951
James VI and Anne of Denmark spent time at Falkland during their disagreement about Prince Henry

Another Danish group visited in 1593. This visit led to Queen Anne of Denmark gaining more rights over the lands and buildings. She came to stay on July 12, 1594, before the baptism of Prince Henry at Stirling Castle. It was said she left Edinburgh for Falkland because Holyrood Palace was not grand enough for the Danish visitors.

James VI wanted Prince Henry to stay at Stirling Castle with the Earl of Mar. This upset the queen. In August 1595, James convinced Anne to come to Falkland to meet the Earl of Mar and make peace. A church minister gave a sermon about marriage, and it was thought that Anne "gave good ear to his advice." Another minister also talked with Anne at Falkland, hoping to fix the disagreement. People said James and Anne were now "lovingly together at Falkland."

Anne was joined at Falkland by her friend and servant, Margaret Vinstarr. Margaret had visited the queen's mother, Sophie of Mecklenburg-Güstrow, who told her daughter that she should obey her husband.

Falkland's Last Years as a Royal Palace

When Anne of Denmark visited in September 1598, her bedroom was decorated with tapestries from Holyroodhouse. Wine was brought to Falkland for her. A French ambassador came in July 1599. He became ill, and it was rumored he had been poisoned. He recovered and traveled with the king.

In July 1600, herons nested in the park. James VI wanted them to "increase and multiply," so he forbade anyone from killing herons nearby. In August, a French acrobat performed on a tightrope in the palace courtyard for the king and queen.

James VI played cards with an English diplomat at Falkland in May 1602. In September 1602, Anne of Denmark entertained the wife of the French ambassador at Falkland while her husband traveled with the king.

David Murray became the keeper of the garden, park, and Lomond Hills. He was allowed to build a house on the site of the old castle, called the Castlestead. The palace was sometimes used as a prison. In November 1608, James ordered David Murray to hold James Elphinstone, 1st Lord Balmerino, prisoner in the palace tower for sending secret letters to the Pope. Balmerino was released in October 1609.

After the Union of the Crowns

After Scotland and England joined under one king in 1603, Andrew Murray watched over the palace. In 1615, he advised that the king should send people to make repairs, or the palace would "fall all to the ground." The architect James Murray repaired the palace for King James's visit in 1617.

The palace was repaired again in 1629. Roofing slates were shipped from Dundee. A glazier painted the iron window grills with red lead. New wooden panels with royal symbols were made for the gatehouse.

Civil War and Decline

King Charles I and King Charles II also visited Falkland. Records show details of Charles II's stay in July 1650. During his visit, rules had to be made to lower the high prices of rooms and horse rentals in the village. The king's food was seasoned with expensive spices.

A fire partly destroyed the palace when Oliver Cromwell's soldiers occupied it. After this, the palace quickly fell into ruin.

Falkland Palace's Revival in the 1800s

Armorial tablet of the Stewarts, Falkland Palace, Fife Scotland
Arms of the Marquesss of Bute

In 1887, John Crichton-Stuart, 3rd Marquess of Bute, bought the Falkland estates. He began a 20-year project to restore the palace with two architects, John Kinross and Robert Weir Schultz. At that time, the palace was a ruin with no windows or doors. Thanks to his hard work and large budget, the palace stands today. Many parts of the palace show his work, like the "B" on the gutters and carvings of his children on a cupboard door.

During Lord Bute's time, the ornamental kitchen garden was improved with a pergola and decorative vases. The north part of the "upper garden" was redesigned to show the foundations of the old Falkland Castle. Walls were built on top of these foundations to highlight the Well Tower and Great Hall.

The Orchard and Palace gardens were connected to the House of Falkland by private paths and new bridges. Houses were built near the palace and linked to the ornamental kitchen garden and orchard by new paths. The area around the curling pond was planted with trees and shrubs and had flower beds.

The enclosing hedge around the pond garden is a typical feature of that time. The lime tree avenue north of the palace gatehouse was built between 1894 and 1913. A Victorian glass house was built in 1890 for Lord Bute. It was used to grow flowers and exotic plants.

Falkland Palace Today

James VI and the Gowrie mystery (1902) (14777652795)
A 1902 view of the palace

In 1952, the Hereditary Keeper, Major Michael Crichton Stewart, asked the National Trust for Scotland to care for the palace. The National Trust became the Deputy Keeper. They now look after and maintain the palace and its large gardens. Their website has many articles and pictures about the palace and grounds.

National Galleries Scotland has even created a digital project showing how the palace might look in a warmer climate due to climate change.

Exploring the Gardens of Falkland Palace

Falkland Palace sits on three hectares of land on a sandstone ridge. The Lomond Hills rise behind it. As you walk around the garden, you can see different styles from different times.

The first record of a garden here was in 1451. In 1500, a new gardener was paid to provide fruit, onions, and herbs. At that time, the garden had a courtyard and stables. There was also a fish pond for fresh fish. Fruit, vegetables, and herbs were grown for the royal family. Meat could be hunted in the ancient Falkland Forest.

King James VI met English ambassadors in the garden in June 1597 to discuss border issues. In August 1602, James VI received the French ambassador in the garden. They talked for a long time, and the ambassador made the king laugh. A few days later, they hunted together in the park.

Garden Design and Conservation

Garden designer Percy Stephen Cane redesigned the gardens in the 1940s. He had also designed palace grounds in Ethiopia. Cane studied plants and architecture. He started a journal called Garden Design and wrote many books. His style was called Arts and Crafts, and his curvy flower beds were new for the time.

Caring for the garden today involves clearing leaves, mowing the lawn, tidying flower beds, and planting. It also means creating homes for wildlife. A wildflower meadow, native hedges, and spring flowers have been planted. These provide food and shelter for insects and small animals.

Conservation work is done carefully to protect the palace's beauty and history. It also protects climbing plants and bats living in the cellars. Bats are protected in Scotland, so it is important not to disturb them. The palace walls have been repaired with traditional lime mortar, which helps prevent dampness.

The current Head Gardener, Sonia Ferrás Mañá, is bringing Percy Cane's garden back to its original design. The garden team and volunteers have been working on projects to protect the garden and help wildlife.

Wildlife in the Gardens

The garden team at Falkland Palace is encouraging wildlife by bringing back the meadow. For the last four years, the grass has been cut only once a year. More than 10,000 wildflowers and many spring flowers have been planted. This work helps beneficial insects in the orchard, which helps pollinate the fruit trees. These insects then attract other animals.

There are now forty different fly species in the orchard. Some are rare or unusual and found nowhere else in Scotland. The insects, especially moths, have attracted Pipistrelle and Soprano Pipistrelle bats. There have also been sightings of red squirrels in the forest. Red squirrels are endangered because their homes are disappearing and they face competition from grey squirrels. A Red Squirrel Project at Falkland Palace aims to bring them back into the gardens.

A shelter was built in the orchard for insects and small animals. This encourages them to stay longer in the garden. The orchard has native trees like hawthorn, oak, and willows, which would have grown here in the 1400s. The Maspie Burn, a stream between the garden and the orchard, is home to water wildlife, including trout.

Building Materials of the Palace

Falkland Palace 12
Falkland Palace, entrance façade
The Chapel Royal in the South Range of Falkland Palace
Chapel Royal inside the South Range of Falkland Palace

Some of the sandstone for the palace came from local quarries. Limestone for the mortar was found and burned on the Lomond Hills. In 1540, harder sandstone was quarried near Dundee and shipped across the Tay to Lindores Abbey. Much of the timber, including imported "Eastland boards" from Denmark, was bought at St Andrews and Dundee. It was then tied into rafts and towed to Newburgh or Lindores and Levenmouth. Other timber came from Leith and Kirkcaldy.

What Falkland Palace Looks Like

The palace has two wings shaped like an 'L'. These are called the South and East Quarters. You enter the palace courtyard through the gatehouse tower at the west end of the South Quarter. The outside of the South Quarter has small openings for guns at the bottom. Above these are small windows for private rooms. On the second level are the large paired windows of the Chapel Royal. Between these windows are weathered statues. The chapel at Falkland is dedicated to St Thomas and is still a Catholic church.

The top of the wall has a decorated cornice and battlements, which continue around the gate tower. East of the chapel is a small tower that once held a circular staircase. Beyond that is the partly rebuilt gable of the East Quarter. The current look of the South Quarter, with its gun openings and statues, dates from the time of James V. The entrance tower was built in 1541. Inside the gate tower and south quarter, visitors can see the Keeper's Apartments, the Chapel Royal, and a gallery.

The East Quarter is mostly in ruins, except for its courtyard side. The central access tower, the Crosshouse, was rebuilt by the Marquis of Bute. The National Trust's architect rebuilt the King and Queen's bedrooms inside. The northern part of the East Quarter was originally a lodging built by James IV. This part of the building, with its "back galleries" overlooking the garden, was falling apart by 1615.

Château de Villers-Cotterêts
A similar building style at Villers-Cotterêts

The courtyard sides of the South and East Quarters were decorated with pillars in a French Renaissance style between 1537 and 1542. They look similar to the French Chateau of Villers-Cotterêts. The supports on the East are dated 1537, and on the South, where the stonework is more detailed, 1539. The later work might be connected to the arrival of Nicolas Roy, a French mason who came to Scotland in March 1539.

The chapel ceiling dates from the time of King James V. It was built by the carpenter Richard Stewart and redecorated for the visit of King Charles I in 1633.

The courtyard was originally completed on the north side with a great hall. The outline of this building was found by digging and marked with paving slabs by the 3rd Marquis of Bute. Beyond this area are the rebuilt foundations of Falkland Castle. This was also the site of the short-lived Nether Palace in the 1600s.

The World's Oldest Tennis Court

On the lower ground in the gardens, you can find the original real tennis court. Masons built the tennis court, and its walls were finished with lime plaster. It is the oldest tennis court in the world that is still used today! The covered area for spectators is home to many swallows in spring and summer. The court is home to the Falkland Palace Royal Tennis Club.

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