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Intramuros
District
Clockwise, from top left: Plaza Moriones, Baluarte de San Diego, Ayuntamiento de Manila, San Agustin Church, Plaza San Luís Complex, Fort Santiago
Official seal of Intramuros
Logo of the Intramuros Administration
Nicknames: 
Old Manila; the Walled City
Motto(s): 
Insigne y siempre leal
Distinguished and ever loyal
Intramuros is located in Manila
Intramuros
Intramuros
Location in Manila
Country Philippines
Region National Capital Region
City Manila
Congressional District 5th District of Manila
Barangays 5
Settled June 12, 1571 (1571-June-12)
Founded by Miguel López de Legazpi
Area
 • Total 0.67 km2 (0.26 sq mi)
Population
 (2020)
 • Total 6,103
 • Density 9,110/km2 (23,590/sq mi)
Time zone UTC+08:00 (Philippine Standard Time)
Zip codes
1002
Area codes 2

Intramuros is a historic walled area in Manila, the capital of the Philippines. Its name means "within the walls" or "inside the walls." This special district is managed by the Intramuros Administration with help from the city government.

For centuries, Intramuros was the entire city of Manila. It was surrounded by strong walls and was the center of the Spanish Empire in the Philippines. Other areas outside the walls were called extramuros, meaning "outside the walls." These areas later became part of Manila in the early 1900s.

Intramuros was the main government seat for the Spanish colony from 1571 until 1898. It was also a very important place for religion, education, and trade. Goods were shipped to and from Acapulco, Mexico, through the famous Manila galleon trade.

In the early 20th century, under American rule, the coastline moved westward due to land reclamation. The old moat around the walls was drained and turned into a golf course. Sadly, during the Battle of Manila in World War II in 1945, Intramuros was almost completely destroyed. Even though rebuilding started right away, many original buildings are still gone. Today, the Intramuros Administration continues to work on restoring its rich history and culture.

While Intramuros is no longer the main seat of the Philippine government, some government offices are still located there. It also remains a key educational hub, home to several universities. Many offices of the Philippine Catholic Church are also in this district.

Intramuros was named a National Historical Landmark in 1951. Its strong walls are considered National Cultural Treasures because of their historical importance. The San Agustín Church, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is also found within the walled city. Intramuros and other historical sites in Manila might become UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the future.

History of Intramuros

Early Beginnings

Manila's location was perfect for trade. It was on Manila Bay and at the mouth of the Pasig River. This made it a great spot for local tribes to trade with merchants from places like China and India. The old settlement of Maynila was exactly where Intramuros stands today.

In 1564, Spanish explorers led by Miguel López de Legazpi sailed from Mexico. They reached the island of Cebu in 1565. Hearing about the rich area of Maynila, Legazpi sent his commanders to explore Luzon.

The Spanish arrived in Luzon in 1570. After some conflicts, the local people were defeated. A peace agreement was made with the leaders of Maynila, who then gave the city to the Spanish.

Spanish Rule (1571–1898)

Walled City of Manila, detail from Carta Hydrographica y Chorographica de las Yslas Filipinas (1734)
A 1734 map of Intramuros, from the Carta Hydrographica y Chorographica de las Yslas Filipinas
Manila 1851
An 1851 map of Intramuros

Legazpi made Manila the new capital of the Spanish colony on June 24, 1571. He chose it for its great location and resources. King Philip II of Spain was very happy about this new conquest. He gave the city a special coat of arms and called it: Ciudad Insigne y Siempre Leal, meaning "Distinguished and Ever Loyal City." Intramuros became the political, military, and religious heart of the Spanish Empire in Asia.

The city faced many dangers, like natural disasters and attacks from invaders. In 1574, Chinese pirates led by Limahong attacked and destroyed the city. The survivors had to rebuild it. These attacks showed the need for strong walls.

The construction of the stone city began under Governor-General Santiago de Vera. A Jesuit priest named Antonio Sedeno planned the city. The next governor-general, Gómez Pérez Dasmariñas, brought royal orders to build stone walls and a fort. Leonardo Iturriano, a Spanish military engineer, led the project. Chinese and Filipino workers built the walls.

Fort Santiago was rebuilt, and a circular fort called Nuestra Senora de Guia was added. This fort protected the city from land and sea attacks. Funds for construction came from taxes and fines. The walls began in 1590 and continued to be built by many governor-generals until 1872. By the 18th century, the city was fully enclosed.

Life Inside Intramuros

Manila Cathedral (1792) by Brambila
A sketch of Plaza de Roma of Manila by Fernando Brambila in 1792
Santa-lucia-gate-intramuros
Puerta de Santa Lucía in 1873

The main square was Plaza Mayor, now known as Plaza de Roma. The Manila Cathedral was in front of it. To the east was the Ayuntamiento (City Hall). Facing it was the Palacio del Gobernador, the official home of the Spanish governor. An earthquake in 1863 destroyed these buildings. The governor's home then moved to Malacañang Palace.

Inside the walls were many Roman Catholic churches. The oldest is San Agustin Church, built in 1607. Other churches were built by different religious groups, making Intramuros the "City of Churches."

Intramuros was also a major center for education. Religious orders built convents and schools. The Dominicans founded the Universidad de Santo Tomás in 1611 and the Colegio de San Juan de Letrán in 1620. The Jesuits started the Universidad de San Ignacio in 1590, which was the first university in the Philippines. It closed in 1768 but later reopened as the Ateneo Municipal de Manila in 1859.

American Rule (1898–1946)

Intramuros cannon
1902 photo of Spanish artillery
Philippine Island - Manila - NARA - 68156589
Aerial view of the Walled City, 1939

After the Spanish–American War, Spain gave the Philippines to the United States. The American flag was raised at Fort Santiago in 1898. The Americans made big changes to Manila. In 1903, parts of the walls were removed to improve the port along the Pasig River. The stones were used for other buildings.

The walls were also opened in four places to make it easier to get into the city. The moats around Intramuros were filled in and turned into a golf course. New land was created for the Port of Manila, the Manila Hotel, and Rizal Park. These changes hid the old walls from Manila Bay. The first American school, Manila High School, opened in Intramuros in 1906.

In 1936, a law was passed that said all new buildings in Intramuros had to look like old Spanish colonial buildings.

World War II and Japanese Occupation

Manila Walled City Destruction May 1945
Destruction of the Walled City after the Battle of Manila.

In December 1941, the Imperial Japanese Army invaded the Philippines. The Santo Domingo Church and the original University of Santo Tomas campus in Intramuros were destroyed. Manila was declared an "open city" because it could not be defended.

In January 1945, the battle to free Manila began when American troops returned. There was intense fighting between American and Filipino soldiers against Japanese defenders. The Japanese army was pushed back into Intramuros. Heavy shelling during the battle caused massive destruction.

By the end of World War II, almost all buildings and structures in Intramuros were destroyed. Only the damaged San Agustin Church was still standing. Over 100,000 Filipinos died during the Battle of Manila.

Modern Times (1946–Present)

Ayuntameinto de Manila
Ayuntamiento de Manila
Intramuros and South Harbor (top shot) (Manila)(2018-02-07)
Intramuros and South Harbor in 2018
The Bayleaf, a hotel in Intramuros, Manila
The Bayleaf Intramuros Hotel is an example of adaptive reuse of postwar buildings.

In 1951, Intramuros was declared a historical monument. In 1979, the Intramuros Administration (IA) was created to restore and develop the historic walled area. The IA makes sure that the old Philippine-Spanish architectural style is kept.

Since then, the IA has been slowly restoring the walls and buildings. The five original gates have been rebuilt or restored. Buildings destroyed during the war have also been reconstructed. The Manila Cathedral was rebuilt in 1958. The Ayuntamiento de Manila was rebuilt in 2013. The San Ignacio Church and Convent is being rebuilt as the Museo de Intramuros.

In 2015, Pope Francis held a mass at the Manila Cathedral. In 2018, the Department of Tourism and the Intramuros Administration launched a project for the Lenten season. Seven religious sites in Intramuros could be visited, drawing over a million people. Also in 2018, the iMake History Fortress, the world's first history-based Lego education center, opened in Fort Santiago.

The City Walls

Puerta Real, Manila, Filipinas, 2023-08-27, DD 56
Intramuros walls near Puerta Real

The stone walls of Intramuros are not perfectly straight. They follow the shape of Manila Bay and the Pasig River. The walls cover about 64 hectares (158 acres) of land. They are about 8 feet (2.4 meters) thick and rise up to 22 feet (6.7 meters) high. The walls stretch for about 3 to 5 kilometers (1.9 to 3.1 miles). There was an inner moat and an outer moat around the walls.

Defense Structures

04526jfRecoletos Church Bulletin Baluarte San Andres Landmarks Intramurosfvf 49
Watchtower of the Baluarte de San Andres

Many strong defense structures were built along the walls. These include `baluartes` (bulwarks), `ravellins`, and `reductos`. There are seven main bulwarks. The oldest is the Bastion de San Diego, built in 1587.

The fortifications had different parts. The side facing the sea and river was less complex. The three-sided land front had many bulwarks. Fort Santiago was built at the northwest tip where the sea and river meet. It served as a main military headquarters for different rulers throughout history.

Gates of Intramuros

RealGateIntramuros
The Puerta Real (Royal Gate) was built in 1780

Before the American Era, there were eight gates into the city. These were Puerta Almacenes, Puerta de la Aduana, Puerta de Santo Domingo, Puerta Isabel II, Puerta del Parian, Puerta Real, Puerta Sta. Lucia, and Puerta del Postigo. Some gates were destroyed. For example, American engineers removed two gates to make way for wharves.

In the past, drawbridges were raised, and the city gates were closed from 11:00 pm to 4:00 am. Sentinels guarded the city. This practice stopped in 1852 after an earthquake, and the gates were then kept open day and night.

Intramuros Today

Allan Jay Quesada- DSC 3996 Intendencia Ruins, Intramuros, Manila
Aduana Building ruins

Intramuros is the only district in Manila where you can still see many old Spanish-era influences. Fort Santiago is now a well-kept park and a popular place for tourists. The Maestranza Wall, which was removed by the Americans, has been rebuilt. One of the future plans is to complete all the perimeter walls so people can walk around the entire city on top of them.

There isn't much commercial development inside Intramuros. Some fast-food places have opened, mainly for the students. Shipping companies also have offices there. Concerts, tours, and exhibitions are often held to attract both local and foreign visitors.

Building Styles in Intramuros

The Intramuros Register of Styles is the main rulebook for architecture in Intramuros. It is part of a national law that ensures all new buildings look like the old Spanish colonial style. This means that the size, height, and look of new buildings are strictly controlled.

The Register of Styles is the first document to describe the historical building styles of Intramuros in detail. It was written by Rancho Arcilla. This document is the only architectural style guide in the Philippines that has the power of a national law.

Most buildings in old Intramuros were rowhouses without much space between them. They often had courtyards, which were good for the climate. While churches and government buildings looked European, most homes were built in the local style called Bahay na bato. This style was well-suited to the tropical weather. The Register of Styles usually requires new buildings to follow the Bahay na Bato style.

Education in Intramuros

Intramuros has been a center for education since colonial times. It was home to some of the oldest universities in the Philippines. These include the University of Santo Tomas (founded 1611), Colegio de San Juan de Letran (1620), and Ateneo de Manila University (1859). The University of Santo Tomas moved to a new campus in 1927, and Ateneo moved in 1952.

After World War II, new schools were built over the ruins. The Pamantasan ng Lungsod ng Maynila, a public university, was built where the old Spanish Barracks used to be. The Lyceum of the Philippines University, a private university, was built on the site of the old San Juan de Dios Hospital.

Mapúa University, which started in 1925, also moved to Intramuros after the war. Its campus was built where the San Francisco Church once stood. These three new schools, along with Colegio de San Juan de Letran, formed a group called the Intramuros Consortium to work together.

Churches in Intramuros

Manila, Manila Cathedral, Philippines
Manila Cathedral has been visited by three Popes.
FvfIntramuros2720 27
The San Agustin Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Intramuros was once home to eight large churches built by different religious groups. Sadly, all but one of these churches were destroyed in the Battle of Manila. Only San Agustin Church, completed in 1607, survived the war. The Manila Cathedral, the main church for the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila, was rebuilt in 1958.

The other religious groups rebuilt their churches outside Intramuros after the war. For example, the Dominicans rebuilt Santo Domingo Church in Quezon City. The San Ignacio Church and Convent is currently being rebuilt as the Museo de Intramuros, which will be a museum about church history.

Monuments and Statues

Many historical monuments and statues were destroyed during World War II and other disasters. However, some have survived, and new ones have been added to remember the area's rich history. You can still visit several of these today.

Monuments and statues in Intramuros
Name Image Location Designers Year Notes
Adolfo López Mateos Statue Plaza Mexico
14°35′39″N 120°58′28″E / 14.59417°N 120.97444°E / 14.59417; 120.97444 (Plaza Mexico)
Luis A. Sanguino- Sculptor Statue of a seated Adolfo López Mateos, who was the President of Mexico from 1958 to 1964.
Anda Monument Anda Circle Manila 05.jpg Anda Circle 1871 This monument was first located near Fort Santiago. In 1957, it was moved outside Intramuros to Bonifacio Drive, where it stands today.
Benavides Monument Miguel de Benavides Monument, UST.jpg Plaza Santo Tomas Tony Noël 1889 This is a copy. The original statue was moved to the Sampaloc Campus in 1946. Its original base was destroyed during the Battle of Manila in 1945.
Carlos IV monument King Carlos IV of Spain.jpg Plaza de Roma
14°35′32″N 120°58′23″E / 14.59222°N 120.97306°E / 14.59222; 120.97306 (King Charles IV Monument)
A monument dedicated to Charles IV of Spain.
King Philip II Statue
0922jfIntramuros Manila Landmarks Buildingsfvf 35
Plaza de España
14°35′36″N 120°58′28″E / 14.59333°N 120.97444°E / 14.59333; 120.97444 (King Philip II Statue)
A monument to Philip II of Spain, after whom the Philippines is named.
Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument Manilajf8528 37.JPG Bonifacio Drive opposite the Manila Hotel Agustí Querol Subirats 1929 In 2012, some of its metal decorations were stolen.
Memorare – Manila 1945 Memorial (Shrine of Freedom) 01308jfIntramuros Manila Landmarks Wedding Cars Buildingsfvf 42.jpg Plazuela de Santa Isabel 1995 The words on this memorial were written by National Artist for Literature Nick Joaquin.
Queen Isabel II Statue A statue of Queen Isabel II in Intramuros.jpg Puerta Isabel II Ponciano Ponzano 1860 This statue was once located in front of Malate Church. It was moved to the front of Puerta Isabel II in 1975.
Rizal Statue
Rizal Shrine in Intramuros
Rizal Shrine This statue shows Jose Rizal, the National Hero of the Philippines.
Rizal sa loob ng piitan
Jose Rizal, Intramuros
Rizal Shrine This statue shows Jose Rizal, the National Hero of the Philippines.

Structures Before and After World War II

This table shows some of the important buildings in Intramuros before World War II and what stands in their place today.

Old Structure Image Current Structure Image Note
Churches
Lourdes Church
(1892-1945)
02438jfManila Intramuros Streets Buildings Churches Landmarksfvf 02.jpg El Amanecer Building 01827jfLandmarks Buildings Intramuros Manilafvf 44.jpg
San Francisco Church
(1739-1945)
08841jfHoly Trinity Academy Parish Church Sampaloc Manilafvf 15.jpg Mapúa University
(Since 1956)
Mapua-intramuros.jpg
San Ignacio Church and Convent
(1899-1945)
San Ignacio Church.JPG Museo de Intramuros
(Since 2018)
09281jfIntramuros Landmarks Churches Manilafvf 40.jpg The church and convent are being rebuilt as the Museo de Intramuros.
Recoletos Church
(1739-1945)
04578jfRecoletos Church Bulletin Baluarte San Andres Landmarks Intramurosfvf 47.jpg Manila Bulletin Headquarters Intramurosjf0380 26.JPG
Santo Domingo Church
(1868-1945)
0971jfIntramuros Manila Landmarks Buildingsfvf 01.jpg Bank of the Philippine Islands, Benlife Building, and Tuazon Building 0922jfIntramuros Manila Landmarks Buildingsfvf 43.jpg
Third Venerable Order Church
(1733-1945)
Intramuros, Manila 1700s.png Mapúa University The Catholic Chapel of the Mapua Institute of Technology.jpg
Schools and Convents
Ateneo de Manila University
(1859-1932)
Puerta de Santa Lucia gate of Intramuros in front of Augustinian convento, Manila, Philippines – 1899.jpg Tent 09037jfIntramuros Landmarks Churches Manilafvf 38.jpg This school moved to its Padre Faura Campus after a fire in 1932. It later moved again to Quezon City.
Beaterio de la Compania Light and Sound Museum Rebuilt as the Light and Sound Museum.
Beaterio-Colegio de Santa Catalina Colegio de San Juan de Letrán Campus 0372jfColegio de San Juan de Letran Boy Scouts Monument of studentsfvf.jpg This school moved to a new campus. Its old lot was used by Colegio de San Juan de Letran to expand.
Colegio de Santa Isabel
(1632-1945)
Vacant Lot, and Plazuela de Santa Isabel Colegio de Santa Isabel moved to a new campus outside the city walls.
Real Colegio de Santa Potenciana Colegio de Santa Potenciana location marker.jpg National Commission for Culture and the Arts, Philippine Red Cross (Manila Chapter), Philippine Veterans Building, and the Insurance Center Building
Santa Clara Monastery Vacant Lot
University of Santo Tomas UST Intramuros.jpg BF Condominiums 0971jfIntramuros Manila Landmarks Buildingsfvf 17.jpg UST moved to its Sampaloc Campus in 1927. The university decided not to rebuild its Intramuros campus after the war.
Other Buildings
Cuartel de España
(Spanish Barracks)
University of the City of Manila View from Manila hotel.jpg
Hospital de San Juan de Dios Lyceum of the Philippines University WTMP Team Waka Waka A-3.JPG
Palacio de Santa Potenciana Philippine Red Cross 01778jfIntramuros landmarks City Manilafvf 27.jpg

How Intramuros is Managed

Intramuros Administration

The Intramuros Administration (IA) is a government agency under the Department of Tourism. Its job is to restore, manage, and develop the historic walled area of Intramuros. It also makes sure that new buildings follow the 16th to 19th-century Philippine-Spanish architectural style. The IA handles daily tasks like issuing building permits and managing traffic. Its office is in the Palacio del Gobernador.

Local Divisions (Barangays)

Intramuros is divided into five small local areas called barangays. These are numbered 654 to 658. These barangays help with the well-being of the people living in Intramuros. They do not have their own executive or law-making powers.

Zone Barangay Land area (km2) Population (2020 census)
Zone 69 Barangay 654 0.08678 km2 1,042
Barangay 655 0.2001 km2 1,067
Barangay 656 0.3210 km2 364
Zone 70 Barangay 657 0.3264 km2 982
Barangay 658 0.2482 km2 2,108

See also

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