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West Tilbury
St James, West Tilbury (geograph 2719448).jpg
West Tilbury is located in Essex
West Tilbury
West Tilbury
OS grid reference TQ665785
Unitary authority
Ceremonial county
Region
Country England
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Post town TILBURY
Postcode district RM18
Dialling code 01375
Police Essex
Fire Essex
Ambulance East of England
EU Parliament East of England
UK Parliament
  • Thurrock
List of places
UK
England
Essex
51°28′35″N 0°23′23″E / 51.47639°N 0.38972°E / 51.47639; 0.38972

West Tilbury is a small village in Essex, England. It is part of the Thurrock area. The village sits on a 30 metres (98 ft) tall hill, looking over the River Thames. Some parts of the modern town of Tilbury, including Tilbury Fort, are actually in the older area of West Tilbury. In 1931, about 444 people lived here. In 1936, West Tilbury became part of the larger Thurrock area.

Exploring West Tilbury

West Tilbury was once its own Church of England parish. Today, it is one of seven special conservation areas in Thurrock. This means the area's history and nature are protected.

The modern town of Tilbury is partly in West Tilbury's traditional area. This includes Tilbury Fort. However, most of Tilbury is in the traditional parish of Chadwell St Mary.

West Tilbury Village Hall: A Community Hub

The Village Hall, also known as the Memorial Hall, opened in 1924. Captain E. A. Loftus opened it to remember local men who died in World War I. Their names are on a special tablet in St. James's Church and at the hall. The hall is on Rectory Road. It was built with money raised by villagers and local landowners. Today, the hall can be rented for events. It continues to be a busy center for the village. West Tilbury Village Hall is a registered charity. It gets support from local people and their fundraising events.

Nature and History of the Land

West Tilbury is located in the very south of Essex, right by the River Thames. About half of its land is made of Thames clay. The land further inland rises into a 30 metres (98 ft) high gravel ridge. Near the border with Mucking parish, there are some sandy soils.

The ground beneath is made of Thanet Sands. Below that is a deep layer of chalk. A stream valley cuts through the gravel ridge. This valley shows some yellow sands on the surface. The rest of the farming land is mostly gravelly. You can find large pieces of flint and other unique pebbles here.

Farming the Land

The rich soils near the Thames used to be natural salt marshes. These areas were slowly protected by banks from the Middle Ages onwards. This created new land for farming. A big reclamation of land happened in the 1720s. A significant creek once ran inland towards Hall Hill. This creek was blocked off in the mid-16th century. Its entrance, called Bill Meroy Creek, allowed small boats to reach Marsh Farm.

In the past, farmers in West Tilbury grew different crops. They raised cattle, grew grasses, cereals, and beans on the higher gravel lands. There used to be many springs, brooks, and ponds here. On the marshland, they raised many sheep. These sheep produced milk and cheese for local and wider markets. Today, a few runner beans and herbs like coriander are grown in suitable areas near the village.

Ancient Discoveries: Archaeology

The 30 metres (98 ft) gravel hill in West Tilbury has many pointed handaxes. These tools are from the Lower Palaeolithic, or Old Stone Age. Some tools from Neanderthals have also been found near the village center.

Many tools from people who lived after the Ice Age have been found. These include flint cores, blades, and axes. These show that Maglemosian hunter-gatherers lived along the northern stream valley. People continued to live here through the Neolithic period. They were likely connected to the nearby Orsett causewayed enclosure. These early farmers seemed to prefer the higher gravel slopes.

During 2010, a Late Bronze Age burial mound was found north of Mill House. Other features from before Roman times were also discovered. A Roman defensive area was found on Gun Hill in the late 1960s. Finds from this site are at Thurrock Museum. An important Anglo-Saxon hut was also found in the late 1960s. This shows that Anglo-Saxons settled here from around 450 AD.

In 2000, a twisted gold necklace (torc) was found by a farmer. It was from the 1st century BC. Sadly, it was sold illegally and is now lost to history. Photos show it was similar to necklaces from the Waldalgesheim chariot burial in Germany.

Hedges and Woodlands: Green Spaces

On the reclaimed marshland, fields were divided by drainage ditches. These ditches grow reeds, brambles, and wild sloe. They are regularly dug out, so they do not become permanent hedges. The fields on higher ground used to have tall elm trees. Most of these trees are now gone. However, new elm sprouts keep growing in the hedgerows.

Some very old parts of hedgerows still exist. They have beautiful hazel, spindle, field maple, oak, and ash trees. You can also find wildflowers like red campion, stitchwort, and bluebell. Unfortunately, a plant called ‘Alexanders’ is now growing in most of West Tilbury’s lanes. This is harming the other small plants.

There are also a few small, old woodlands. They are called Ashen Shaw, Rainbow Shaw, and Shrove Hill. These woods are often found along the parish boundaries. Ashen Shaw is named for its shape. It curves around a stony hill. In spring, its wild cherry trees are lovely when they blossom. It has old trees like Field Maple, Ash, Crab Apple, and Oak. The ground is covered with violets, bluebells, and wild arum.

Shrove Hill, on the western border, gets its name from an old word for rough woodland. Another tiny wood is Coopers Shaw. This is a newer thicket of elm trees. The local word ‘shaw’ comes from a medieval term for woodland that was managed by coppicing.

Old Farming Systems

Records of the field enclosures go back over 400 years. The earliest is John Walker’s manor survey from 1584. A notebook from the 1780s describes every farm and field in West Tilbury. It even lists their crops and livestock. Today's field systems have changed to meet farming needs. However, some field shapes from 1584 are still visible.

The Common Fields: Shared Land

West Tilbury has a unique feature: a large area of open land called ‘Great Common’. This land has no hedges. It was one of three medieval areas where farmers worked their individual strips of land. It is located behind the village Green and the local pub.

Another similar area was off Low Street Lane, called the ‘Little Common’. Here, individual strips of land were marked by posts. The last of these cast-iron posts were put back up in 1868. They have the name of Sir John Cass, whose charity school owned land here.

Farming Practices in the Past

West Tilbury continued to use some open field farming well into the 1800s. Even though the fields were open, individual plots were privately owned. Sometimes there were arguments about where these plots were. Two large landowners, the Sir John Cass Foundation and the town of Henley on Thames, put up markers to show their land.

Farmers here used to mix their farming. They raised cattle and grew grasses, cereals, and beans on the higher gravel lands. On the marshland, they raised many sheep. These sheep produced milk and cheese for local markets.

West Tilbury Commons: Shared Grazing Land

These areas are also leftovers from medieval farming. They are grasslands set aside for the villagers. People who owned farms in the parish could graze a certain number of cows or sheep here. This was allowed between spring and late autumn. By the 1700s, people started to misuse these rules. Some villagers let too many animals graze. In 1895, a law was passed. It created the West Tilbury Common Conservators. This group makes sure the Commons are used properly.

The West Tilbury Commons cover over 100 acres today. The smallest part is the village Green. This was originally a market square from about 1257. It was set up by Richard de Tilbury, the manor lord. Next to it was the manor pond. This was important for markets where goods arrived by pack-horses. The yearly St. James' fair also took place here.

Larger grazing areas were further away. These included Hall Common (13 acres), Parsonage Common (15 acres), Tilbury Fort Common (16 and 20 acres), and Walton Common (24 acres). There were also fringes of Fort Road (15 acres).

Growth and Industry

West Tilbury has mostly stayed an agricultural village. This is unusual for an area that has seen a lot of industry. This is mainly because of the C. H. Cole and Sons farming estate. They are a major landowner and are based at Mill House Farm. This family has been in the parish since the mid-Victorian years. They resisted the changes that made nearby areas more urban.

A small part of the parish near Tilbury Town was developed for housing. This happened when the East and West India Co. docks arrived around 1883. The old Marsh Farm was used for the town’s sewage works. East of Tilbury Fort, two large power stations were built in the 1950s. One of them still stands today.

Some areas show signs of old gravel workings. These are now overgrown or filled in. One 19th-century quarry is now a pleasant scouting camp. A railway line crossed the marshlands in 1854–55. A small station was built at Low Street a few years later. It was taken down in 1969. West Tilbury is one of three possible sites for a new bridge over the Thames and a motorway link in the future.

The Parish Church and its History

Bede's History of the English Church mentions a church built by St Cedd at Tilaburg. Some people think this was West Tilbury. However, most believe it was East Tilbury. The West Tilbury parish church was named after St James (The Great). His saint's day is July 25, which is when the West Tilbury fair was held. Most of the church windows seem to be from the 14th century. It is now a private home. William Laud, who later became Archbishop of Canterbury, was a rector of West Tilbury in 1609.

St. James' Church: A Historic Building

St James' Church is a very old and important building. It is made of flint and rubble. It was repaired by W Benton. It still has parts of Early Norman windows. Inside, there is a detailed memorial for Lady Gordon and her husband, Sir Adam Gordon. He was the rector from 1796 to 1817.

The Churchyard: A Place of Rest

The eastern part of the churchyard is shaped like a half-circle. This might mean the church was built on an old mound. On the west, it touches the manor hall grounds. The soil here is deep gravel. Parts of the 1883 oak fence still exist on the east and north. There is also a Victorian timber lych gate. It was recently re-tiled with red dragon decorations.

The burial ground was surrounded by a stone wall. Records from 1565 say it was "broken down" and needed repair. Its flint base was recently uncovered during clearing. The burial area is a traditional acre. It has many gravestones from the 1700s and 1800s. Some are made of imported limestone. A few are for soldiers. You can also find names of notable farming families like COLE, TALMASH, and ASPLIN. The burial area was made larger in 1921. George Burness gave a piece of his land for this. The churchyard holds the war graves of two British Army soldiers from World War II.

Rectors of West Tilbury

We don't know the names of the very first rectors from the Norman period. A priest named Richard of Tilbury is mentioned in 1223–4. In 1228, William, rector of Little (West) Tilbury, is recorded. The first rector with a known last name was William de Hareworth. He was chosen by King Edward I. The writer Simon Alcock was rector from before 1422 until 1428. The last rector of West Tilbury as a separate parish was Rev. Dudley A. Whitwham, from 1954 to 1971. After that, Leonard James Middleton was in charge until 1977, when the parishes joined together.

The Parsonage House: Home of the Priests

This house, also called 'The Rectory', was where medieval priests lived. It was in the Glebe field area, southeast of St. James' churchyard. Pottery from the 13th century onwards has been found here. Tiles from the house and other buildings were also found. In the 1700s, a 'Rectors' Well' for medicinal water was here.

For a short time in the 1780s, a house on the Green (Well House) was used as the parson's home. About ten years later, Rev. Adam Gordon bought the 'Bell Inn' pub. He turned it into a beautiful parsonage house. This gave its name to Rectory Road. It was the home for future rectors of West Tilbury from about 1799 until the mid-20th century. Then it was sold and torn down. Some parts of its old garden remain today.

West Tilbury's Medicinal Waters

In the 1700s, the village was famous for its healing spring waters. The most well-known water came from under the Hall Farm kitchen. People noticed it cured problems in cattle. It was then sent to famous London chemists for testing in 1736. One of these was Dr. John Andree, who helped start the London Hospital. He wrote about how helpful the 'Tilbury Water' was. Many people said it helped with stomach problems. It was sold in the village and from a warehouse in London.

In the 1780s, another spring water became popular. The rector of St. James', Rev. David Evans, started selling water from his rectory house yard. This water was sold from a warehouse in London. This "inferior" water probably didn't last long. By the time Rev. D. Evans died in 1795, the West Tilbury springs were becoming less known. In 1803, it was described as "occasionally resorted to." Records stop mentioning the main well site after 1807.

Historic Buildings of West Tilbury

The most famous building is Tilbury Fort (English Heritage). It's a large fort from the mid-1600s. It was built to protect the narrow part of the Thames, which is about 900 metres (3,000 ft) wide. Guide books explain the fort's design and history. You can visit the fort all year round. There are also interesting exhibitions inside.

Other historic buildings are in or near the village. They show the local building style from the late 1400s to the mid-1800s. West Tilbury Hall, Condovers (now Walnut Tree Cottage), and Marshalls are all old timber-framed houses. They were built with oak and elm in the early Tudor period. West Tilbury Hall is the largest. It has old Tudor brick cellars. It is the only moated site in the parish. Only a small part of the dry ditch remains.

Polwicks at Low Street is a newer house from the early 1600s. It is also timber-framed but has a different layout. Manor Farm, now called The White House, is from the late 1600s. It uses foreign softwood timbers from Scandinavia. It is mostly covered in weatherboard.

Brick buildings became common in the village from the 1700s. The King's Head (around 1770s) is an example. The Post Office (around 1810) is also brick. The Old Bakery on the Green is a good example of a brick home. It was built in the 1830s. Outside the village, Gunhill Farm and Mill House Farm are two Victorian houses. They were built for wealthy farming families in 1839 and 1850.

Well House, which overlooks the Green, looks like a Victorian brick house. But inside, it has timber framing from the late 1400s. It was likely an old hall-house that was changed in the 1600s. Charles Sloane's map from 1742 shows it. In 1794, it was described as a rectory house. About 50 years later, its front was covered with local brick.

The Schoolhouse is next to the Memorial Hall. It is a brick building with a slate roof. It is a typical example of late Victorian school architecture. It opened in 1876 and could hold 66 children. In the mid-1880s, about 55 children attended. In 1894, the school was made bigger. In 1913, it was called a "comprehensive" school. By the 1930s, it had 118 children. The school closed on July 22, 1960. Older children moved to Torrells School. Younger children mainly moved to Chadwell.

Famous People from West Tilbury

  • Emily Mary Osborn (1828–1925) was an English painter. She was born in Essex. She started showing her art at the Royal Academy when she was 17. She was known for paintings of children and women in trouble.
  • Ernest Achey Loftus was known for keeping a detailed diary for 91 years, from 1896 to 1987.
  • Gervase of Tilbury (born in the 1150s) was a medieval writer. He wrote 'Otia Imperialia', a book of instructions and entertainment for Emperor Otto IV.
  • John Nevison, also known as William Nevison, was a famous highwayman. King Charles II supposedly called him "Swift Nick." This was because Nevison once rode 200 miles from Kent to York to create an alibi for a robbery. This story inspired the novel Rookwood.

Queen Elizabeth I's Armada Camp

There has been some confusion about where Queen Elizabeth I's royal review took place. Many thought it was at Tilbury Fort. Others believed it was on the high ground around St James' church or on Gun Hill. In the early 1700s, a historian named William Holman said the parade field was just outside the village, near the windmill. This idea was repeated in a history book from 1768.

In 1988, the local council planned a re-enactment of the historic events. The local museum researched to find the exact location. They looked at maps at the British Museum and explored the parish. The research showed that Holman was right. The "place of assembly at arms," where the Queen gave her speech, was in fields next to the manor's windmill.

There was another important site on Gun Hill. Here, overlooking the fort and Gravesend, was the Lord General's tent. The Queen went to this spot to eat dinner with her captains after the parade. These grand events happened on August 8 and 9, 1588. The Camp Royal had been set up for several weeks before. On the river, a defensive barrier of ships' masts was being built.

The exact number of soldiers at the camp is unclear. Over the month or so, between 17,000 and 22,000 men were said to have been there. However, not all served the whole time.

The tall stone tower of St. James' church was likely used for sending signals. It could communicate with all the forts along the river, Leicester's pavilion, Gravesend, and other ports. To the east, it could see beyond Isle of Sheppey. Two special ships, the 'Victory' and 'Lion', watched the Thames. Fishermen from Leigh were ready to warn of any enemy ships.

On August 8, the Queen arrived by royal boat from London. She was met by the Earl of Leicester at the fort. She then traveled across the marshland below the church and Tilbury Hill. This is described in a poem by James Aske called 'Elizabetha Triumphans'.

After visiting the camp, the Queen continued north through a narrow lane. She went onto Mucking hilltop and then towards Horndon on the Hill. She stayed the night at a manor house called 'Cantis'. On the morning of August 9, she returned to the "place of assembly at arms." This is where the great review happened, and she gave her famous speech.

West Tilbury's highest open ground was the Queen's parade area. It was about 17 acres (6.9 ha) of common field, east of the windmill. It had clear views of the distant Thames and Southend. From this dry, gravelly hilltop, the land sloped down to a small valley. Here, a mock battle was performed.

Spanish prisoners were brought before the Queen. One was Pedro de Valdez, a general from the Spanish Armada. He was asked why Philip's armies had come. He replied, "Why, but to subdue your nation, and root you all out." He meant both Catholics and Protestants. He said Catholics would go to heaven, and "all you that are heretics, to hell." This message was read to the soldiers by the camp's chaplain.

While the Queen was at dinner, she received news from Francis Drake. He reported that the Spanish fleet was already in the eastern channel. Less happy news was that the Duke of Parma's forces in the Netherlands were about to sail to invade southern England.

It turned out to be a false alarm. By mid-August, the Camp Royal was closed. The soldiers, who were not well-fed and wanted their wages, began to go home. Records show confusion over equipment as the camp broke up. Many men were forced into sea service before they could officially leave.

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