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Chanel Ltd
Private
Industry Fashion
Founded 1910; 115 years ago (1910)
Paris, France
Founders Coco Chanel and Pierre Wertheimer
Headquarters 5 Barlow Place London, W1J 6DG United Kingdom
51°30′38″N 0°08′36″W / 51.51054°N 0.1432786°W / 51.51054; -0.1432786
Number of locations
500+ boutiques
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Products
Revenue Increase US$19.7 billion (2023)
IncreaseUS$4.0 billion (2021)
Owners
  • Alain Wertheimer
  • Gérard Wertheimer
Number of employees
32,000 (aug 2024)

Chanel (pronounced shə-NEL) is a famous French luxury fashion company. It was started in 1910 by Coco Chanel in Paris, France. Today, it is owned by French brothers Alain and Gérard Wertheimer. Their company, Chanel Limited, is based in London.

Chanel is known for its women's clothing, luxury items, and accessories. They also allow other companies, like Luxottica, to use their name for eyewear. Two of Chanel's most famous creations are the No. 5 perfume and the "Chanel Suit." Coco Chanel changed fashion by making clothes that were more comfortable and practical, moving away from tight, corseted styles. Women still found her designs very stylish.

History

Coco Chanel's Early Years (1909–1920s)

Coco Chanel, 1920
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1920

The Chanel company began in 1909. Gabrielle Chanel first opened a hat shop in Paris. She met wealthy people through her connections, which helped her sell the hats she designed.

Chanel hat from Les Modes 1912
The actress Gabrielle Dorziat wearing a Chanel plumed hat (1912)

In 1910, with help from a friend named Arthur "Boy" Capel, Coco Chanel opened her first independent hat shop called Chanel Modes in Paris. Two years later, in 1913, she opened shops in Deauville and Biarritz. These shops sold comfortable sports clothes for women, which were very practical.

During World War I (1914–1918), materials for clothing became scarce. Chanel opened a large dress shop in Paris. She used jersey fabric, which was unusual for fashion at the time, because it draped well and was easy to work with. Her designs were simple and practical, sometimes inspired by military uniforms. By 1915, Chanel's clothes were famous across France. She even opened her first Haute Couture (high fashion) house in Biarritz.

Chanel jersey casual wear 1917,
Illustration of three women in Chanel day outfits, 1917

After World War I, in the 1920s, Chanel became known for beaded dresses, popular with "flapper" women. Her styles were simple and less structured than the fashions of the late 1800s. Chanel often used colors like grey and navy blue, which were usually seen as masculine, to show feminine strength. Her clothes often featured quilted fabric and leather details. The quilted design made the fabric stronger and helped the clothes keep their shape. A famous example is the Chanel suit, which includes a knee-length skirt and a cardigan-style jacket.

In 1921, Coco Chanel asked perfumer Ernest Beaux to create a special perfume for her company. He created No. 5, named after the sample she liked best. It was first given as a gift to clients, but it became so popular that Chanel started selling it in 1922.

In 1923, Coco Chanel explained her success to Harper's Bazaar magazine, saying that "simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance."

Growing the Business (Late 1920s)

The success of No. 5 perfume made Coco Chanel want to sell perfumes beyond France. She needed money and business help. A businessman named Théophile Bader introduced her to Pierre Wertheimer. They created the Parfums Chanel company. Wertheimer owned 70% of it, Bader owned 20%, and Chanel owned 10%. The Chanel name helped the perfume business become very successful.

However, Coco Chanel felt that Wertheimer was taking advantage of her. Wertheimer reminded her that his money had helped her expand the perfume business, which made them both wealthy. Chanel tried to get a larger share of the company, but her efforts were not successful.

World War II and Beyond (1930s–1940s)

In the 1930s, Coco Chanel's designs became more feminine. She showed elegant evening dresses and summer dresses with shiny details. In 1932, she even had an exhibition of diamond jewelry. By 1937, Chanel made clothes for more women, including smaller sizes.

Bundesarchiv Bild 101III-Alber-178-04A, Walter Schellenberg
Chanel lived in the Hôtel Ritz Paris during World War II.

During World War II (1939–1945), Coco Chanel closed most of her fashion house, selling only jewelry and perfumes. She moved to the Hôtel Ritz Paris. Meanwhile, Pierre Wertheimer and his family, who were Jewish, left France for the U.S. in 1940 because of the Nazi occupation. Wertheimer had already made sure that a Christian French industrialist, Felix Amiot, would legally control Parfums Chanel. This allowed the perfume company to continue operating under Nazi rule.

After the war, when France was freed, there were rumors that Coco Chanel had worked with the Nazis. She was questioned but released, partly because of secret help from Winston Churchill. Because of these rumors, Coco Chanel could not stay in France. She moved to Switzerland for eight years.

While Chanel was in Switzerland, Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris and took back control of his family's businesses, including Parfums Chanel. Coco Chanel was still unhappy with her small share of the perfume business. She started her own perfume company in Switzerland. To protect his business, Wertheimer made a new deal with Chanel in 1947. She received a large sum of money, a percentage of future perfume sales, and a monthly payment for her expenses. In return, she closed her Swiss perfume business and gave Parfums Chanel full rights to the "Coco Chanel" name.

Chanel's Comeback (1950s–1970s)

1965 purple Chanel suit
A Chanel suit, 1965

In 1953, Coco Chanel returned to France. The fashion world was then focused on the "New Look" by Christian Dior, which featured full skirts and tight waists. This style used a lot of fabric, which was a big change after wartime rationing.

To bring the House of Chanel back to its leading position, Coco Chanel asked Pierre Wertheimer for help and money. Wertheimer agreed, and this new deal gave him commercial rights to all Chanel-brand products.

In 1953, Chanel worked with jeweler Robert Goossens to create jewelry that matched her clothes. She designed long necklaces of black and white pearls. The House of Chanel also introduced leather handbags with chains, which could be carried on the shoulder or in hand. The famous quilted-leather handbag, known as the "Chanel 2.55" (named after its launch in February 1955), became very popular.

Chanel also created its first men's cologne, Pour Monsieur. In 1957, Chanel and her spring collection won the Fashion Oscar at the Neiman Marcus Fashion Awards. Pierre Wertheimer bought the remaining shares of Parfums Chanel, giving his family 90% ownership.

Woman wearing a Chanel cheongsam with oriental robe and a feather hat in1950s
Woman wearing a Chanel cheongsam with robe and a feather hat in 1950s

In 1965, Pierre's son, Jacques Wertheimer, took over the perfume business. Coco Chanel passed away on January 10, 1971, at 87 years old. She was still designing clothes at the time. After her death, the company's leadership changed hands.

Jacques Wertheimer later bought full control of the House of Chanel. In 1974, the company launched Cristalle eau de toilette, a perfume designed by Coco Chanel before she died. In 1978, Chanel started selling its first ready-to-wear clothing line and accessories worldwide.

Alain Wertheimer, Jacques Wertheimer's son, took control of Chanel S.A. in 1974. He improved sales of Chanel No. 5 perfume by making it more exclusive. He also invested a lot in advertising and used famous people like Marilyn Monroe to promote it. Alain Wertheimer convinced Karl Lagerfeld to become the chief designer for Chanel, bringing new energy to the brand. Over the years, Chanel has partnered with many famous actors, musicians, and artists.

Chanel Today (1980s–Present)

Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2011
Chanel couture by Lagerfeld: the A/W 2011–2012 collection
CHANELYorkdale
A Chanel store in North America

In 1981, Chanel launched Antaeus, a cologne for men. In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld became the main designer for Chanel. He used classic Chanel elements like tweed, gold accents, and chains, but also added his own modern touch. During the 1980s, over 40 Chanel stores opened around the world. By the end of the decade, Chanel boutiques sold everything from expensive perfumes to dresses and handbags.

Chanel's marketing approach was to introduce new fragrances less often than competitors, making each one special. In 1984, a new perfume called Coco was launched in honor of the founder. In 1986, Chanel started making watches, and the first Chanel watch came out in 1987. By the end of the 1980s, Alain Wertheimer moved the company's offices to New York City.

The Wertheimer family's wealth grew to US$5 billion because of Chanel's success. Even though sales slowed down in the early 1990s, Chanel recovered by expanding its stores. In 1994, Chanel was the most profitable French fashion house.

Chanel continued to expand its product lines. In 1996, they bought the swimwear brand Eres. They launched new perfumes, Allure in 1996 and Allure Homme in 1998. In 1999, Chanel introduced its first skincare line, Précision, and also started selling sunglasses and eyeglass frames.

In 2000, Chanel launched its first unisex watch, the J12. In 2001, they acquired the watchmaker Bell & Ross. The same year, Chanel opened accessory-only boutiques in the United States. They also started including a small selection of menswear in their fashion shows.

In 2002, Chanel launched the Chance perfume. They also created Paraffection, a company to support traditional craft workshops that make special details for their products, like buttons, feathers, and embroidery. Karl Lagerfeld designed a ready-to-wear collection.

Chanel Store in Prince's Building, Central, Hong Kong--2014-12
The Chanel flagship store at Prince's Building, Hong Kong

Chanel continued to grow in the United States, opening 25 boutiques by December 2002. In 2003, Chanel introduced Coco Mademoiselle and "In-Between Wear" for younger women. They also opened new stores in Paris and Hong Kong, and bought a building in Tokyo.

In 2007, Maureen Chiquet became CEO. In 2018, Chanel announced it would move its global headquarters to London. In December 2018, Chanel also announced that it would no longer use fur and exotic animal skins in its collections.

In February 2019, Karl Lagerfeld passed away at age 85. Virginie Viard, who had worked with Lagerfeld for over 30 years, became the new Creative Director. Viard left the brand in June 2024.

In December 2021, Leena Nair was appointed Global Chief Executive Officer. In February 2024, Chanel opened a new flagship store in New York City dedicated to watches and fine jewelry. In December 2024, Matthieu Blazy was named the next Artistic Director of Chanel.

Exhibitions and Retrospectives

Many museums have featured exhibitions about Chanel. The Palais Galliera in Paris had a show called "Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto" from October 2020 to August 2021. This exhibit later traveled to Tokyo, Melbourne, and is set to open at London's Victoria & Albert Museum in September 2023.

The ThyssenBornemisza National Museum in Madrid explored the connection between Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle Chanel in an exhibition from October 2022 to January 2023.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City honored Chanel with an exhibit in 2005, showing Coco Chanel's designs from the 1920s. The museum's Costume Institute also plans a special exhibit in May 2025 to honor former Creative Director, Karl Lagerfeld.

Helping Others and the Environment

The Fondation Chanel is the company's charity organization, started in 2011. It helps with healthcare, addresses gender-based violence, and supports women's economic independence. Fondation Chanel works with organizations in Africa, Asia, Europe, Latin America, the United Kingdom, and the United States.

Chanel is also focused on sustainability. In June 2021, they invested $25 million in the Landscape Resilience Fund to help farmers deal with climate change. In 2022, they launched the No.1 de Chanel beauty and fragrance line, which uses mostly natural ingredients and eco-friendly packaging. The company aims to reduce its carbon footprint by 50% by 2030 and use 100% renewable electricity by 2025. They are also using eco-responsible materials and shifting to shipping products by sea. In January 2024, Chanel joined other cosmetics companies to improve traceability for sustainable cosmetics.

Arts and Culture

The Chanel Culture Fund supports arts and culture worldwide. It partners with places like the National Portrait Gallery in London and the Centre Pompidou in Paris. The Fund also gives an annual prize of €100,000 to ten artists in performing and visual arts.

Yana Peel, Chanel's global head of arts and culture, said that artists help us find new ways forward, especially in challenging times. She explained that Chanel has always supported the arts and now continues this tradition by helping creative innovators.

Company Identity

The Chanel logo has two interlocking "C" letters, one facing left and one facing right. This logo was given to Chanel by the Château de Crémat and became a trademark when the first Chanel shops opened.

The logo is widely known to stand for "Coco Chanel" and is one of the most recognizable logos in the world. It represents luxury and high quality.

In 2022, Chanel donated €2 million to Care International and UNHCR to help Ukraine during the conflict.

Worldwide, Chanel S.A. has about 310 boutiques. These stores are in wealthy areas, often inside large department stores like Harrods and Selfridges, or in popular shopping districts and airports. In 2015, the company paid a record $152 million for a retail space in Beverly Hills. In October 2020, they bought their main store on Bond Street in London for £310 million.

Trademarks

Chanel has registered its trademarks with the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO). In November 1924, Chanel, Inc. applied for trademarks for the name "Chanel" and the interlocking "CC" design. These trademarks were for perfumes, toiletries, and cosmetics. The trademarks were officially granted in February 1925. The first trademark for the No. 5 perfume was filed in April 1926 and registered in July 1926.

Fighting Fake Products

Like many luxury brands, Chanel is a target for counterfeiters who make fake products. An authentic classic Chanel handbag can cost around US$4,150, while a fake one might cost about US$200. Since the 1990s, all real Chanel handbags have a unique number to help identify them.

In 2018, Chanel sued The RealReal, claiming the website was selling fake Chanel products and making it seem like they were connected to Chanel. Chanel's legal team has a website to help consumers tell the difference between real and fake Chanel products. Many fashion bloggers also share tips on how to spot fake luxury items.

Products

Ernest Beaux
The perfumer Ernest Beaux (1881–1961) created No. 5 de Chanel in 1921.
CHANEL No5 parfum
Chanel presented Perfume No. 5 to the market in 1922.

Handbags

The Chanel 2.55 handbag, introduced in 1955, changed women's fashion. It had a shoulder strap, allowing women to carry it hands-free. Over the years, Chanel has updated its handbag designs while keeping their classic look. For example, in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld introduced the 11.12 handbag, which features the famous double-C logo.

Chanel often increases the prices of its handbags to keep them exclusive. The Classic Flap bag, for instance, has gone from $220 when it first came out to over $10,000 recently. These price changes are due to rising costs and a strategy to maintain the brand's luxury status.

Fragrances

In 1924, Pierre Wertheimer started Parfums Chanel to make and sell perfumes and cosmetics. This part of the business became the most profitable for Chanel S.A. Since then, Parfums Chanel has had four main perfumers:

  • Ernest Beaux (1920–1961)
  • Henri Robert (1958–1978)
  • Jacques Polge (1978–2015)
  • Olivier Polge (2015–present)
Chanel MYER Sydney City 2013
Fragrance and Skincare counter at Myer in Sydney

Perfumes

  • Allure EDT
  • Allure Eau Sensuelle EDP
  • Allure Eau Sensuelle EDT
  • Chance Eau Vive
  • Chance Eau Fraiche
  • Chance Eau Tendre
  • Coco
  • Coco Mademoiselle
  • Coco Noir
  • Cristalle
  • Cristalle Eau Verte
  • No. 5
  • No. 19
  • No. 19 Poudre
  • No 22
  • Gardénia
  • Bois des Iles
  • Cuir de Russie
  • Eau de Cologne
  • 31 Rue Cambon
  • No. 18
  • Coromandel
  • Bel Respiro
  • 28 La Pausa (named for La Pausa, Chanel's villa)
  • Sycomore
  • Beige
  • Jersey
  • 1932
  • Misia
  • Boy
  • 1957
  • Le Lion de Chanel

Colognes

  • Allure pour Homme
  • Allure pour Homme Sport
  • Allure pour Homme Eau Extreme
  • Allure pour Homme Cologne Sport
  • Allure Homme Edition Blanche
  • Antaeus
  • Égoïste
  • Platinum Égoïste
  • Bleu De Chanel Eau de Toilette
  • Bleu De Chanel Eau de Parfum
  • Bleu De Chanel Parfum
  • Pour Monsieur

Makeup and Skincare

Chanel cosmetics are widely available in department stores around the world, like Harrods and Galeries Lafayette. They also have their own beauty boutiques.

Product Lines

  • Mascara
  • LA MOUSSE
  • Hydra Beauty
  • Le Blanc
  • Le Lift
  • Sublimage
  • Blue Serum
  • La Solution 10 de Chanel
  • Vamp Nail Polish
  • N°1 line (skincare and makeup products based on natural ingredients and eco-friendly ideas)

Fine Jewellery

Chanel 'High Jewellery' was started in November 1932. Coco Chanel showed her first high-end jewelry collection, 'Bijoux de Diamants', at her mansion in Paris. It was the first time a fashion designer created such a collection. The 'Bijoux de Diamants' collection was inspired by stars, comets, and the moon. Gabrielle Chanel designed about 50 pieces with white and yellow diamonds. This collection aimed to boost the diamond trade during the Great Depression. In 2012, the company made a special collection to celebrate the 80th anniversary of Diamants. Current collections include High Jewelry, Camelia, Comete, Coco Crush, Baroque, 1932, Ultra, Bridal, and Jewelry Watches.

Watches

Chanel started its wristwatch division in 1987. In 1995, they introduced a second design, the Matelassé. While these watches were successful, the launch of the Chanel J12 line in 2000 made Chanel watches truly famous. These watches are unisex and made of ceramic materials. The J12 watches come in different sizes. In 2008, Chanel S.A. and Audemars Piguet created a special ceramic clockwork, the Chanel AP-3125, just for Chanel.

As of 2024, Chanel owns parts of other watch companies like MB&F, F. P. Journe, and Romain Gauthier.

Wine

Chanel owns several wineries, including Château Rauzan-Ségla, Château Canon, St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery, and Domaine de i'lle.

Swimwear

In 2018, Chanel bought the clothing brand Orlebar Brown, which specializes in men's swim shorts.

Images for kids

See also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Chanel para niños

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