Juanito Oiarzabal facts for kids

Quick facts for kids Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal
Juanito Oiarzabal in 2007
Born	(1956-03-30) March 30, 1956 (age 69) Vitoria-Gasteiz, Basque Country, Spain
Nationality	Spanish
Occupation	Mountaineer

Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga (born March 30, 1956), known as Juanito Oiarzabal, is a famous Spanish Basque mountaineer. He has written four books about his adventures. He was the sixth person ever to climb all 14 of the world's highest mountains, known as eight-thousanders. These are mountains over 8,000 meters (about 26,247 feet) tall. He was also the third person to do this without extra oxygen.

Juanito was the first climber to reach the top of the three highest mountains (Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga) twice. He was also the oldest person to climb Kangchenjunga at nearly 53 years old. In 2004, he sadly lost all his toes due to frostbite after climbing K2.

In 2009, Juanito shared his new goal: to be the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice! This is called a "double 14." By April 2010, he had climbed 24 eight-thousanders in total after reaching the top of Annapurna. This set a new world record. In 2011, he climbed Lhotse for a second time, making it his 25th eight-thousander summit. He is now second in the world for the most 8000er climbs, right behind Nepali climber Phurba Tashi Sherpa, who has 30.

Adventures in the Himalayas

Juanito Oiarzabal is very well-known for his amazing climbs in the Himalayas. But before he started climbing those giant peaks, he was already one of the best climbers in Spain. He had climbed many difficult routes on all the Spanish mountains. He even found some important new climbing paths.

He also has a lot of experience climbing in the Alps, which are mountains in Europe. He loved the technical challenges they offered. Juanito has also climbed on other continents, including North America, South America, and Africa. But it's in the Himalayas where he feels most at home. He has been on 35 expeditions there over 23 years!

Juanito's Climbing Journeys

Juanito Oiarzabal has climbed many famous mountains around the world. Here are some of his important climbs:

North America

• 1984 – Denali (also called McKinley) (6,194 m or 20,322 ft) – He climbed the West Buttress Route.

South America

• 1983 – Aconcagua (6,957 m or 22,825 ft) – This was the 5th time anyone had climbed it in winter. He has also guided 16 climbs to Aconcagua.

Africa

• 1988 – Mount Kenya – He climbed the Diamond Corridor.

Nepal

• 1982 – Kangchuntse (Makalu II) (7,640 m or 25,070 ft). He reached 7,200 m (23,600 ft).
• 1988 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). He reached 8,000 m (26,000 ft).
• 1989 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). He reached 8,350 m (27,400 ft).
• 1990 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). He reached 8,300 m (27,200 ft).
• 1991 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). He reached 8,400 m (27,600 ft).
• 1993 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). He reached the Summit!
• 1995 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). Summit.
• 1995 – Lhotse (8,516 m or 27,940 ft). Summit.
• 1996 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). Summit.
• 1997 – Manaslu (8,163 m or 26,781 ft). Summit.
• 1998 – Dhaulagiri (8,167 m or 26,795 ft). Summit.
• 1999 – Annapurna (8,091 m or 26,545 ft). Summit.
• 2002 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). He reached 7,600 m (24,900 ft).
• 2004 – Ama Dablam (6,856 m or 22,493 ft). Summit.
• 2008 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). Summit.
• 2009 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). Summit.
• 2010 – Annapurna (8,091 m or 26,545 ft). Summit (he used a helicopter to come down).
• 2011 – Lhotse (8,516 m or 27,940 ft). Summit.
• 2011 – Manaslu (8,163 m or 26,781 ft). Summit.

Pakistan

• 1987 – Gasherbrum II (8,035 m or 26,362 ft). Summit.
• 1987 – Hidden Peak (8,068 m or 26,470 ft). He reached 6,800 m (22,300 ft).
• 1992 – Nanga Parbat (8,125 m or 26,657 ft). Summit.
• 1994 – K2 - Chogori (8,611 m or 28,251 ft). Summit.
• 1995 – Broad Peak (8,047 m or 26,401 ft). Summit.
• 1997 – Hidden Peak (8,068 m or 26,470 ft). Summit.
• 2003 – Broad Peak (8,047 m or 26,401 ft). Winter. He reached 6,900 m (22,600 ft).
• 2003 – Gasherbrum II (8,035 m or 26,362 ft). Summit.
• 2003 – Hidden Peak (8,068 m or 26,470 ft). Summit.
• 2004 – K2 - Chogori (8,611 m or 28,251 ft). Summit.

China

• 1985 – Cho-Oyu (8,201 m or 26,906 ft). Summit.
• 1998 – Shisha Pangma (8,046 m or 26,398 ft). Summit.
• 2000 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). He reached 8,700 m (28,500 ft) (without extra oxygen).
• 2001 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). Summit (without extra oxygen).
• 2002 – Cho-Oyu (8,201 m or 26,906 ft). Summit.
• 2003 – Cho-Oyu (8,201 m or 26,906 ft). Summit (September 23).
• 2003 – Cho-Oyu (8,201 m or 26,906 ft). Summit (October 5).

China (Xinjiang)

• 2000 – He crossed the Taklamakan desert (800 km (500 mi)) using only camels.

Greenland

• 2000 – He traveled between Narsasoak and Kangarlosoak (650 km or 400 mi) on a sleigh pulled by a kite.

Russia

• 2001 – Mount Elbrus (5,642 m or 18,510 ft). He climbed it in winter. This is the highest mountain in Europe.

Awards and Honors

Juanito Oiarzabal has received many awards and special recognitions for his amazing achievements:

• He has helped in mountain rescue missions and has been honored for his bravery.
• He is an honorary member of several mountaineering clubs.
• He is a member of the Basque Mountaineering Club.
• He is a climbing teacher.
• He teaches at the Basque Mountaineering School (EVAM).
• He is a Mountaineering Guide and part of the International Union of Mountaineering Guide Associations.
• He received the Golden Insignia from the Basque Mountaineering Federation.
• He was nominated for the "Prince of Asturias" Award for Sports in 1999 and was a finalist in 2001. This is a very important award in Spain.
• The Mundo Deportivo newspaper named him one of the top 20 Spanish sportsmen of the century.
• He received the Golden Medal for Sports Merit from the Spanish government in 1999.
• In 2000, the Basque Government gave him the special title of Universal Basque Citizen.
• He is an honorary member of the Spanish Exploration and Adventure Club.
• The sports newspaper Marca gave him its highest award, the "Marca de Leyenda" (Legendary Mark). Only a few top athletes in the world have received this.
• Important leaders like the King of Spain, the former Spanish Prime Minister, and the Basque President have officially welcomed him to honor his achievements.
• In 2005, he received the FCG International Award for Sports from the Cristóbal Gabarrón Foundation.

Books by Juanito

Juanito Oiarzabal has published four books about his experiences.

TV Shows and Films

Juanito Oiarzabal has been part of many TV shows and films that promote mountaineering.

• On TVE, he filmed his climb of Annapurna for the TV show Al filo de lo imposible (On the Edge of the Impossible). This is a famous adventure program.
• He has also recorded many other shows, like one about Everest where he recreated the story of Mallory and Irvine. They were two climbers who disappeared in 1924 while trying to reach the summit.
• On the public Basque broadcasting corporation's ETB2 TV channel, he has been a team leader in several parts of The conqueror of the world's end. This is an adventure reality show filmed in Patagonia, Argentina.

See also

In Spanish: Juanito Oiarzabal para niños