Steph Davis facts for kids
Davis in 2010
|
|
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | November 4, 1973 Illinois, U.S. |
| Education | B.A. University of Maryland M.A. Colorado State University |
| Occupation | Rock climber |
| Height | 5 ft 5 in |
| Weight | 120 lb (2006) |
| Climbing career | |
| Type of climber | Traditional climber, Free soloist, Free climber, BASE jumper |
| Known for |
|
Stephanie "Steph" Davis (born November 4, 1973) is an American rock climber, BASE jumper, and wingsuit flyer. She is known as one of the world's best climbers. She has completed some of the hardest climbing routes.
Steph Davis has achieved many "firsts" for women in climbing. She was the first woman to climb all the peaks of the Fitzroy Range in Patagonia. She was also the first woman to free climb the Salathė Wall on El Capitan. She was the first woman to free solo The Diamond on Longs Peak in Colorado. She was also the first woman to reach the top of Torre Egger.
Davis has been married to fellow climbers and BASE jumpers Dean Potter and Mario Richard. Both of them sadly died while wingsuiting. She is currently married to sky-diving instructor Ian Mitchard. Steph Davis also writes a blog about her interests. These include climbing, BASE jumping, yoga, and being a vegan.
Contents
Early Life and Climbing Start
Steph Davis was born in Illinois. She grew up in New Jersey and Columbia, Maryland. Her father was an engineer, and her mother was a teacher. Steph describes herself as not very athletic when she was young. She was a great student and loved music.
She played the piano from age three and practiced many hours a day. She also played the flute and sang. Steph says that playing the piano taught her "discipline."
In 1990, she went to the University of Maryland. In 1991, a friend invited her to try climbing. She immediately loved it. She felt "lit up" after her first climb. She decided to quit piano because she didn't feel the same passion for it. She says climbing was challenging from the start, which made her want to do it more. During school breaks, she climbed on Longs Peak and did bouldering in Hueco Tanks.
She loved climbing so much that she moved to Colorado. She studied at Colorado State University (CSU) for a year. After getting her bachelor's degree from the University of Maryland, she went back to CSU for a master's degree in English. She thought about going to law school but decided against it. She knew climbing was her true passion. Her parents were surprised by her choice. Her mother said they were a "regular family" and climbing was new to them.
Becoming a Professional Climber
For seven years after college, Steph Davis lived in her car. She traveled to climbing areas, working as a guide and waiting tables. She earned only about $6,000 a year. She read many books during her travels.
At first, her parents did not approve of her lifestyle. They worried about her future. But as Steph became more famous and successful, she earned a better living. She got sponsorships from big companies like Patagonia and Clif Bar.
In 1998, Patagonia hired Steph as their first female "climbing ambassador." This meant she promoted their products for money and free gear. This support meant a lot to her. She felt it was the "validation she wanted." However, being a professional climber also meant she had to promote herself. Steph believes there isn't a "best" climber, so this was a new challenge.
Climbing El Capitan
In 2004, Steph Davis started working on Freerider (5.12d). This is a very long climb on El Capitan in Yosemite. Her goal was to free climb the route. This means using only her hands and feet to climb, not pulling on ropes or gear. To prepare, she practiced the route many times. She would hike 10 miles to the top, then climb down alone to practice parts of the route.
In April 2004, after a tough four-day climb, she became the first woman to free climb Freerider. In May, she became the second woman, after Lynn Hill, to free climb El Capitan in just one day.
The Salathé Wall
In October 2005, Steph Davis became the first woman to free climb the Salathé Wall on El Capitan. This route is rated 5.13b/c and is about 3,200 feet (980 m) long. Climbing it is like "spidering up the side of a skyscraper."
Steph worked on the route for a month, learning every part of it. She planned for the climb to take five days. But bad weather and many other climbers made it take eleven days. She only wore light climbing shoes and clothes. She had a lightweight sleeping bag, a portable espresso maker, water, and food. When they ran low on supplies, she had to go to the top to get more. This climb was a "dream come true" for Steph. She said afterward, "I don't have to prove anything to myself anymore."
She was also the first woman to climb Torre Egger. This is a very difficult peak in Patagonia. She made the first one-day climb of it with her partner at the time, Dean Potter.
In 2006, Steph's marriage to Dean Potter ended. This was partly due to financial stress after they lost sponsorships. Steph moved from Yosemite to Colorado.
Free Solo Climbing
Steph Davis is known for free soloing. This means climbing without any ropes or safety gear. Climbers rely only on their hands and feet. Steph says she does it for the feeling of "control," not just for the thrill.
The Diamond on Longs Peak in Colorado is a famous climbing spot. It's a vertical granite wall full of cracks, reaching 4,346 metres (14,259 ft) high. Steph first climbed there at age 24 and returned often. She started free soloing easier routes there.
In September 2007, Steph free-soloed ... Sanctuary (5.11a). This was a difficult route on the east face of Longs Peak. It's a thousand-foot granite wall. To be ready, Steph slept near the peak and started climbing at 4:15 AM. She said positive thinking was key to her success.
In May 2008, Steph free soloed the North Face (5.11b) of the Castleton Tower in Castle Valley, Utah. After climbing it, she BASE jumped from the top. She called this climb and jump "the cleanest possible style." She prepared by climbing the route many times. The climb was filmed by a friend, Jim Hurst.
Steph has also made first climbs in Moab, Utah. In 2008, she climbed Concepcion (5.13), one of the hardest crack climbs in the world. She was the third person and first woman to climb it. She said it was her most technically difficult climb ever.
Expedition Climbing
Steph Davis has been on successful international expeditions. She has climbed new routes in places like Pakistan, Kyrgyzstan, Baffin Island, Argentina, Italy, and Patagonia. She was the first American woman to reach the top of Fitzroy in Patagonia. She was also the first to summit all seven major peaks of the Fitzroy Range.
In 1998, Steph started her mountain climbing career in the Karakorum mountains. She climbed Inshallah (VI 5.12 A1) on Shipton Spire in Pakistan. This climb pushed the limits of free climbing in a tough, high-altitude place. She returned to the Karakorum in 2000. There, she made the first climb of Tahir Tower.
Steph has written about the challenges she faced as a woman in a sport mostly dominated by men. However, by 2009, she felt that much of that discrimination had gone away.
Skydiving and BASE Jumping
Steph Davis started skydiving in 2007. She quickly learned to BASE jump so she could jump in the area around her home in Moab. BASE jumping helped her become "comfortable with falling" and facing fear. By 2014, she was BASE jumping about 300 times a year.
Moab BASE Adventures
In 2011, Steph and her husband at the time, Mario Richard, started Moab BASE Adventures. This company offered guided hikes, climbs, and jumps. It also had classes especially for women. Steph wanted to help women learn to BASE jump on their own.
The company ended when Mario Richard died while wingsuiting on August 18, 2013. Steph had jumped safely just before him.
Books and Media
Steph Davis has written two books. Her first book, High Infatuation: A Climber's Guide to Love and Gravity, has been translated into many languages. In this book, she explores why she takes high risks in climbing. She also writes about her personal life and what her work means to her. Steph loves writing and says the book is about "what it is like to live this lifestyle."
In March 2013, she published Learning to Fly: An Uncommon Memoir of Human Flight, Unexpected Love, and One Amazing Dog. This book is about how she recovered from a difficult breakup. It also shares how her love for skydiving helped her overcome her fear of falling. The book is described as "gripping" and a "story of personal growth." Steph felt she could offer advice to others about facing fear in their lives. She said, "Life's about change. Don't be afraid."
Notable Climbs
Ascents
- 1996, Obelisk IV 5.11, The Diamond, Long's Peak, Colorado — First all-female climb.
- 1996, Tricks are for Kids 5.13a/b, Indian Creek, Moab, Utah — First female climb.
- 1997, French Route 5.12a, Peak 3850, Ak-Su Valley, Kyrgyzstan — First free climb.
- 1997, Big Yellow Moon V 5.12, Peak 3850, Kyrgyzstan — First free climb.
- 1998, Inshallah VI 5.12 A1, Shipton Spire, Pakistan — New route, mostly free climbed.
- 1999, Zen and the Art of Leadership VI 5.11 A4, Jushua Tower, Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island — New route.
- 2000, All Quiet on the Eastern Front VI 5.11 A3, Tahir Tower, Kondus Valley, Pakistan — New route and first climb of the mountain.
- 2000, Chouinard-Herbert V 5.11+, Sentinel, Yosemite — First free climb.
- 2000, Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite - Climbed with Beth Cost, who was the first female paraplegic to climb the wall.
- 2001, The Potter-Davis Route V 5.11 C1 WI4, north face of Poincenot, Patagonia — New route.
- 2002, Red Pillar 5.10 A1, Aguja Mermoz - Became the first woman to climb all seven major peaks of the Fitz Roy massif.
- 2002, The Epitaph 5.13b, Tombstone, Utah — First free climb.
- 2004, Freerider VI 5.12.d/13a, El Capitan, Yosemite — First female climb. Second woman to free climb El Capitan in a day.
- 2004, The Crackhouse, Moab, Utah — First female climb.
- 2005, The Tombstone 5.13, Moab, Utah — First free climb.
- 2005, Salathé Wall VI 5.13 b/c, El Capitan, Yosemite — First woman to free climb the Salathe Wall.
- 2005, Titanic ED 6+/A2, 1000m, Torre Egger, Patagonia — First one-day climb of the mountain. First woman to reach the top.
- 2008, Concepcion 5.13b/c, Moab, Utah — Third climb of the route, first woman to redpoint it.
Solo Climbs
- 1997, A Thousand Years of Russian Christianity V 5.12, Peak 4520, Kyrgyzstan — Rope solo climb.
- 1999, Coyne Crack 5.11+, Indian Creek, Moab, Utah — Free solo climb.
- 1999, Scarface 5.11, Indian Creek, Moab, Utah — Free solo climb.
- 2007, Casual Route 5.10 The Diamond, Long's Peak, Colorado — Free solo climb.
- 2008, North Face, Castleton Tower 5.11, Moab, Utah — Free soloed the route and then BASE jumped down.
Personal Life
In 1994, Steph Davis met Dean Potter while climbing in Colorado. They began a relationship and made Moab, Utah their home. They often traveled to different climbing places. In 2002, Steph and Dean got married. However, they were often in different places because of their climbing projects. Their marriage ended in 2006. Dean Potter later died in a BASE jump accident in 2015.
In 2011, Steph married BASE jumper Mario Richard. After their wedding ceremony, they jumped off a mesa and parachuted to the ground. Mario Richard died while wingsuiting in 2013.
In 2018, Steph Davis married Ian Mitchard. He is a skydiving instructor, wingsuit flyer, and BASE jumper.
Steph also practices yoga. She is a strong supporter of veganism. She believes that factory farming is wrong.
Images for kids
-
Steph Davis BASE jumping with a wingsuit.
See Also
In Spanish: Steph Davis para niños
- History of rock climbing
- List of first ascents (sport climbing)
- List of climbers and mountaineers
