Steph Davis facts for kids
Davis in 2010
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| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | November 4, 1973 Illinois, U.S. |
| Education | B.A. University of Maryland M.A. Colorado State University |
| Occupation | Rock climber |
| Height | 5 ft 5 in |
| Weight | 120 lb (2006) |
| Climbing career | |
| Type of climber | Traditional climber, Free soloist, Free climber, BASE jumper |
| Known for |
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Stephanie "Steph" Davis (born November 4, 1973) is an American rock climber, BASE jumper, and wingsuit flyer. She is known as one of the world's best climbers. Steph has completed some of the hardest climbing routes. She was the first woman to climb all the peaks in the Fitzroy Range in Patagonia. She was also the second woman to free climb El Capitan in one day.
Steph was the first woman to free climb the Salathé Wall on El Capitan. She was also the first woman to free solo The Diamond on Longs Peak in Colorado. Plus, she was the first woman to reach the top of Torre Egger. Steph is also a blogger who writes about climbing, BASE jumping, yoga, and being vegan.
Contents
Early Life and Discovering Climbing
Steph Davis was born in Illinois and grew up in New Jersey and Columbia, Maryland. Her dad was an engineer, and her mom was a teacher. Steph says she wasn't very athletic as a child. She was a great student and loved music, playing the piano from age three. By 18, she practiced six hours a day.
In 1991, while at the University of Maryland, a friend invited her to try climbing. Steph immediately loved it and decided to stop playing piano. She found climbing challenging from the start, which made her want to do it even more. During school breaks, she climbed on Longs Peak and did bouldering in Hueco Tanks.
She loved climbing so much that she moved to Colorado. She earned a bachelor's degree from the University of Maryland. Then, she got a master's degree in English from Colorado State University. She thought about going to law school but decided against it after just five days. She chose to follow her passion for climbing instead.
Becoming a Professional Climber
After college, Steph lived in her car for seven years. She traveled to different climbing spots, working as a guide and waiting tables to earn money. She made about US$6,000 a year. She read many books during her travels.
At first, her parents didn't approve of her lifestyle. But as Steph became more famous and successful, she started earning more. She got sponsorships from big companies like Patagonia and Clif Bar.
In 1998, Patagonia hired Steph as their first female "climbing ambassador." This meant she promoted their products in exchange for money and free gear. This support meant a lot to her.
Climbing El Capitan
In 2004, Steph started working on Freerider (5.12d), a 38-pitch climb on El Capitan. Her goal was to free climb the entire route. To do this, she practiced the route many times. She would hike 10 miles to the top and then climb down alone to practice sections.
In April 2004, after four tough days, she became the first woman to free climb the Freerider route. The next month, in May, she became the second woman to free climb El Capitan in just one day.
In October 2005, Steph made history again. She became the first woman to free climb the Salathé Wall on El Capitan. This route is rated 5.13b/c and is about 3,200 feet long. Free climbing means using only your hands and feet to climb the rock, without pulling on ropes or other tools.
Steph spent September learning every part of the climb. She planned for it to take five days, but bad weather and other climbers made it take eleven days. She had very little gear, just light climbing shoes, clothes, a sleeping bag, and some food and water. This climb was a "dream come true" for Steph.
Conquering Torre Egger
Steph is also the first woman to climb Torre Egger, a very hard peak in Patagonia. She made the first one-day climb of this mountain with her partner at the time, Dean Potter. They climbed a route called Titanic on the east side of Torre Egger. This amazing climb took them 23 hours.
Free Soloing Adventures
Steph Davis is one of the world's most experienced free solo climbers. In free solo climbing, climbers go up the rock without any ropes, harnesses, or safety gear. Steph says she does it for the feeling of "control," not just for the danger.
The Diamond on Longs Peak in Colorado is a famous climbing spot. It's a tall granite wall full of cracks. Steph first climbed there at age 24 and returned often. She started free soloing easier routes there.
..... This was a big goal for her. It's a difficult route on the east face of Longs Peak, a thousand-foot granite wall. .....
In May 2008, Steph free soloed the North Face (5.11b) of the Castleton Tower in Moab, Utah. After climbing it, she BASE jumped from the top. She called this climb and jump "the cleanest possible style."
International Expeditions
Steph has been on successful climbing trips around the world. She has climbed new routes in places like Pakistan, Kyrgyzstan, Baffin Island, Argentina, Italy, and Patagonia. She was the first American woman to reach the top of Fitzroy in Patagonia. She also climbed all seven main peaks of the Fitzroy Range.
In 1998, Steph started her mountain climbing career in the Karakorum mountains. She climbed Inshallah on Shipton Spire in Pakistan. She returned to the Karakorum in 2000 and made the first climb of Tahir Tower.
Skydiving and BASE Jumping
Steph started skydiving in 2007. She soon learned to BASE jump so she could jump near her home in Moab. She says BASE jumping helped her feel "comfortable with falling" and to react to fear with action. By 2014, she was jumping about 300 times a year.
In 2011, Steph and her husband at the time, Mario Richard, started a company called Moab BASE Adventures. It offered guided jumps and classes, especially for women. Sadly, Mario Richard passed away in a wingsuit accident in August 2013.
Books by Steph Davis
Steph has written two books about her experiences. Her first book, High Infatuation: A Climber's Guide to Love and Gravity, has been translated into many languages. In it, she talks about why she takes risks in climbing and what it means to her.
In March 2013, Steph published her second book, Learning to Fly: An Uncommon Memoir of Human Flight, Unexpected Love, and One Amazing Dog. This book is about how she recovered from a difficult time and used her love of skydiving to overcome her fear of falling. She wanted to share how facing fear can help people in all parts of life.
Personal Life
Steph Davis met fellow climber Dean Potter in 1994. They had a relationship for many years and married in 2002. They often traveled for their climbing projects. Their marriage ended in 2006. Dean Potter later passed away in a BASE jump accident in 2015.
In 2011, Steph married Mario Richard, a BASE jumper. They even jumped off a mesa after their wedding ceremony! Mario passed away in a wingsuit accident in 2013.
In 2018, Steph married Ian Mitchard, who is also a skydiving instructor and BASE jumper.
Steph also practices yoga and is a strong supporter of veganism. She believes in not supporting factory farming.
Notable Climbs
Ascents
- 1996, Obelisk IV 5.11, The Diamond, Long's Peak, Colorado — First all-female climb.
- 1996, Tricks are for Kids 5.13a/b, Indian Creek, Moab, Utah — First female climb.
- 1997, French Route 5.12a, Peak 3850, Ak-Su Valley, Kyrgyzstan — First free climb.
- 1998, Inshallah VI 5.12 A1, Shipton Spire, Pakistan — New route, mostly free climbed.
- 2000, All Quiet on the Eastern Front VI 5.11 A3, Tahir Tower, Kondus Valley, Pakistan — First climb of this mountain.
- 2002, Red Pillar 5.10 A1, Aguja Mermoz - First woman to climb all seven major peaks of the Fitz Roy massif.
- 2004, Freerider VI 5.12.d/13a, El Capitan, Yosemite — First female climb. Second woman to free climb El Capitan in a day.
- 2005, Salathé Wall VI 5.13 b/c, El Capitan, Yosemite — First woman to free climb the Salathe Wall.
- 2005, Titanic ED 6+/A2, 1000m, Torre Egger, Patagonia — First one-day climb of the mountain. First woman to reach the top.
- 2008, Concepcion 5.13b/c, Moab, Utah — First woman to redpoint this route.
Solo Climbs
- 1999, Coyne Crack 5.11+, Indian Creek, Moab, Utah — Free solo climb.
- 2007, Casual Route 5.10 The Diamond, Long's Peak, Colorado — Free solo climb.
- 2008, North Face, Castleton Tower 5.11, Moab, Utah — Free soloed and then BASE jumped from the top.
See also
In Spanish: Steph Davis para niños
- History of rock climbing
- List of climbers and mountaineers
