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Longs Peak
Fall05-LongsPeakCU JPG RSZ md.jpg
Longs Peak seen from the east at sunrise.
Highest point
Elevation 14,259 ft (4346 m) NAVD88
Prominence 2940 ft (896 m)
Isolation 43.6 mi (70.2 km)
Listing
Naming
Native name Neníisótoyóú’u  (Arapaho)
Geography
Longs Peak is located in Colorado
Longs Peak
Longs Peak
Location in Colorado
Location High point of
Rocky Mountain National Park and Boulder County, Colorado, U.S.
Parent range Front Range, Highest summit
of the Twin Peaks Massif
Topo map USGS 7.5' topographic map
Longs Peak, Colorado
Climbing
First ascent 1868 by John Wesley Powell and party
Easiest route Keyhole (scramble) Class 3+

Longs Peak (in Arapaho: Neníisótoyóú’u) is a very tall and famous mountain in the northern Front Range of the Rocky Mountains in North America. It's known as a "fourteener" because its peak is 14,259-foot (4346 m) (14,259 feet) high!

This amazing mountain is located in the Rocky Mountain National Park, about 9.6 miles (15.5 km) southwest of the Town of Estes Park, Colorado, United States. Longs Peak is the northernmost fourteener in the Rocky Mountains. It's also the highest point in both Boulder County and Rocky Mountain National Park. The mountain was named after explorer Stephen Harriman Long and you can even see it on the Colorado state quarter!

What Makes Longs Peak Special?

Trail Ridge Road and Longs Peak by RO
Longs Peak (left of center), Pagoda Peak (center), Chief's Head (right of center), and Mount Terra Tomah (at far right edge), seen from 12,000 feet up in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Longs Peak is easy to spot from many places, like Longmont, Colorado, and most of the northern Front Range Urban Corridor. It stands out as one of Colorado's most famous mountains, rising about 9,000 feet above the western edge of the Great Plains.

The mountain got its name from Major Stephen Harriman Long. He was part of an expedition for the U.S. government and is believed to be the first person to see the Front Range on June 30, 1820.

Longs Peak is often grouped with nearby Mount Meeker, which is 13,911 feet tall. Together, they are sometimes called the Twin Peaks. Just be careful not to confuse them with another smaller mountain called Twin Sisters!

Who Climbed Longs Peak First?

As the only fourteener in Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak has always been a popular spot for climbers. The easiest path to the top isn't considered "technical" during summer. It's thought that Native American people might have used this path long ago to collect eagle feathers.

The first recorded climb happened on August 23, 1868. A group led by John Wesley Powell reached the summit from the south side. In 1871, Addie Alexander became the first woman to successfully climb Longs Peak.

The East Face of the mountain is very steep, dropping 1,675 feet. Part of it is a huge 1,000-foot cliff called "The Diamond" because of its shape, which looks like a cut diamond turned upside down. Lumena Wortman Buhl was the first woman to climb this challenging East Face.

Famous Climbs and Records

In 1960, Dave Rearick and Bob Kamps were the first to climb The Diamond. Their route became known as D1 and is considered one of the "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America". The easiest way up The Diamond is the Casual Route, first climbed in 1977. It's now the most popular way to climb that wall.

Clark's Arrow is a climbing path named after John Michael Clark, a park ranger in the 1950s. The oldest person to reach the top of Longs Peak was Rev. William "Col. Billy" Butler, who climbed it on his 85th birthday in 1926! In 1932, Clerin "Zumie" Zumwalt climbed Longs Peak an amazing 53 times!

The record for the most climbs to the summit of Longs Peak belongs to Jim Detterline, with 428 ascents. Jim was a brave rescue ranger in Rocky Mountain National Park. He saved over 1,000 people in the mountains and earned the special title, "Mr. Longs Peak."

Longs Peak's Glacier

Longs Peak is home to one remaining glacier called Mills Glacier. This glacier is found at about 12,800 feet (3,900 m) at the bottom of the Eastern Face, just above Chasm Lake. There's also a permanent snowfield nearby called The Dove. Longs Peak is one of fewer than 50 mountains in Colorado that still have a glacier.

How to Climb Longs Peak

Keyhole
The Keyhole as seen from the Boulder Field. A small stone shelter (Agnes Vaille Memorial) on the left gives a sense of scale.

Many trails lead up Longs Peak, including the East Longs Peak Trail, the Longs Peak Trail, the Keyhole Route, Clark's Arrow, and the Shelf Trail. During the summer (mid-July to early September), you don't need special climbing gear for the easiest route. However, outside of summer, the popular "Keyhole" route becomes much harder. You'll need special equipment like crampons (spikes for your boots) and an ice axe because of ice and snow. It's one of the toughest "Class 3" climbs in Colorado.

The hike from the start of the trail to the top is 8.4 miles (13.5 km) one way. You'll gain about 4,875 feet in elevation! Most hikers start before sunrise. This helps them reach the top and get back below the tree line before afternoon thunderstorms bring dangerous lightning.

The hardest part of the hike begins at the Boulder Field, about 6.4 miles (10 km) in. After climbing over large rocks, you'll reach the Keyhole at 6.7 miles (10.5 km). The next part involves scrambling along narrow ledges, sometimes with steep drops of 1,000 feet or more! Then you climb over 600 vertical feet up the Trough. After that comes the Narrows, the most exposed part of the hike. Just past the Narrows, the Notch marks the start of the Homestretch, a steep climb to the flat, football field-sized summit.

You can camp overnight in the Boulder Field (with a permit) to make it a two-day hike, but it's very open to the weather. Sadly, many people have died climbing or hiking Longs Peak. On average, two people die each year. If you're not an experienced climber, it's a good idea to go with a guide to stay safe and increase your chances of reaching the top.

Other Hikes and Technical Climbs

If you don't want to climb all the way to the summit, there are easier hikes on Longs Peak. Peacock Pool and Chasm Lake are popular spots with well-kept trails. You can also hike just to the Boulder Field, the Keyhole, or the less-visited Chasm View.

Camping is allowed at the Boulder Field and lower down the mountain, like in Goblin's Forest. Climbers with permits can camp at the base of the East Face and at Chasm View. You can also camp south of the mountain at Sand Beach Lake.

Besides the standard "Keyhole" route, Longs Peak offers more serious and technical climbs. These require special skills and equipment. Deaths on Longs Peak happen every year, so proper training and caution are very important. Some common technical routes include:

  • North Face Cables route: This path follows the Keyhole route to the Boulder Field, then goes up the North Face. It involves some challenging climbing. In the past, guides put steel cables here to help climbers, but they were removed in 1973.
  • Kieners Route: A traditional mountaineering climb that includes going up Lambs Slide (named after Reverend Elkanah Lamb who slid down it by accident!). It also has an exposed walk along the Broadway ledge.
  • Via the Loft: The Loft is a snowy area between Longs Peak and Mount Meeker. You can reach either peak from here.
  • Via the East Face: This is a very steep wall, over 1,000 feet tall, that includes The Diamond. All climbs here are very technical. Only skilled climbers should try these routes, keeping in mind the effects of high altitude and mountain weather.
  • Via the Notch Couloir: This is a technical climb that involves both rock climbing and, at certain times of the year, ice climbing.

Past Names for Longs Peak

Over time, Longs Peak has had a few different names:

  • "Highest Peak"
  • Les Deux Oreilles (French for "The Two Ears"), named by French fur traders. This name was also used for Mount Meeker.
  • "Long's Peak"
  • Neniis-otoyou’u (or nesótaieux) in Arapaho language, meaning "the two mountains/guides." This name also referred to both Longs Peak and Mount Meeker.

Longs Peak in Books

Longs Peak is even mentioned in Jules Verne's famous book, "From the Earth to the Moon". In the story, a huge telescope called "the Telescope of the Rocky Mountains" is built on Longs Peak. Its job is to track a special projectile flying to the Moon!

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