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St Mary's Church,
Harrow on the Hill
Parish Church of St Mary, Harrow on the Hill.JPG
St Mary's Church
Location Harrow on the Hill,
London, HA1 3HL
Country England
Denomination Church of England
Churchmanship Modern Catholic
History
Status Active
Dedication Blessed Virgin Mary
Consecrated 4 January 1094
Architecture
Functional status Parish church
Heritage designation Grade I listed
Administration
Parish Harrow on the Hill
Deanery Harrow
Archdeaconry Archdeaconry of Northolt
Episcopal area Willesden Area
Diocese Diocese of London
Province Province of Canterbury

St Mary's Church, Harrow on the Hill is a very old and important church in northwest London, England. It is the main church for the Borough and Parish of Harrow on the Hill. This building is so special that it is listed as a Grade I-listed building, which means it's one of the most important historic buildings in the country.

History of St Mary's Church

Building the First Church

The story of St Mary's Church began in 1087. That's when Lanfranc, who was the Archbishop of Canterbury, started building a church on this spot. He passed away in 1089.

His replacement was St Anselm. He became archbishop in September 1093. The new church was finished and named after the Blessed Virgin Mary. St Anselm officially opened it on January 4, 1094. This date was special because, back then, Christians celebrated the birth of Christ on Epiphany, also known as Old Christmas Day.

Early Additions and Changes

Not much of the very first church building remains today, except for the bottom part of the tower. By the end of the 1100s, the Chancel (the part of the church near the altar) was built. It has a beautiful arch and tall, narrow windows.

After that, the main part of the church, called the nave, was rebuilt. Two side sections, known as transepts, were also added. Around 1236, Elias of Dereham, who was the Rector of Harrow and also helped build Salisbury Cathedral, appointed the first vicar, John de Holtune.

Chapels and Medieval Work

In 1324, two special chapels were created. These were called chantries, and they were built for people to pray for their benefactors (people who gave money to the church). One chantry was in a chapel about a mile and a half away in Wembley. The other was inside St Mary's Church itself. People used to think it was in the south transept, but new studies suggest it was above the south porch.

There's a small room at the top of a staircase that still shows signs of the original Norman building style. You can even see traces of colorful decorations on the roof beams and a carved space for a statue.

John Byrkhede, a master builder, became the Rector of St Mary's in 1437. By 1450, many parts of the church were built or improved. This included the upper windows (clerestory), the roofs of the nave and transepts, and the top parts of the tower with its famous spire. The roofs of the nave and transepts are considered some of the best in Middlesex, with 377 carvings! The spire itself is covered with 12 tons of lead.

Victorian Restoration

About 400 years later, between 1846 and 1849, the church had a big restoration and renovation. This work was led by George Gilbert Scott. During this time, a low wall (parapet) was added to the roofs of the nave and aisles. The north wall of the chancel was taken down to make the building bigger. The east walls were rebuilt, and the outside of the church was covered with flint. A vestry (a room for clergy) was added to the north side, and it was made even larger around 1900.

The Church Organ

In 1893, there was a plan to build an organ on the south side of the chancel. However, this plan changed when three old Norman windows were discovered, still showing their original decorations. So, the T.C.Lewis Company was asked to build a large organ, which was finished in 1900.

Later, in 1932, Henry Willis & Co added new sounds to the organ. In 1970, Rushworth & Dreaper rebuilt it. Then, in the 1990s, B.C.Shepard of London updated parts of the organ to be electric. The main control panel of the organ was also updated in 1998.

St Marys Church Organ 2001
Martin Singleton playing St Mary's T.C.Lewis organ, 2001

In 1972, the chancel roof, which had been redone in the 1700s, was decorated by Campbell Smith & Co.

Ancient Brasses and Memorials

Inside the church, there are thirteen very old brass plaques, though most are damaged. There is a special robe, called a cope, in the North transept. It was made for the church's 900th anniversary. The designs on it were copied from a damaged brass plaque of John Byrkhede in the chancel.

There is also a brass plaque for John Lyon, who founded Harrow School, and his wife, Joan. It's on the wall of the nave, near his grave. The gravestone on the floor, with writing in Latin, was placed in 1875.

Lord Byron, a famous poet, often visited the churchyard when he was a student at Harrow School from 1801 to 1805. He loved to sit by a tombstone, which he called "his favourite tombstone" (the "Peachey Tomb"). He even wrote a poem about it. A memorial in front of the Peachey Tomb, put up in 1905, tells this story. Byron's daughter, Allegra Byron, is buried in an unmarked grave outside, near the south porch.

Old Features and Bells

The old door into the north porch used to be on the south side. It was moved by Gilbert Scott to protect it better. The font, which is a basin for baptisms, is made of Purbeck marble. The chest in the north transept, like this door, has been used since the 1200s or even earlier. The pulpit, where sermons are given, is a great example of wood carving from the late 1600s.

The church tower has ten bells. The two smallest bells were added to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II's Silver Jubilee.

Location and Views

St Mary's Church is located at the very top of Harrow Hill. From the churchyard, you can see amazing views of Central London and many other directions. It is the highest building in Middlesex. You can spot famous buildings like those in Canary Wharf and the BT Tower in Warren Street, which are many miles away. You can also see Wembley Stadium.

The church is often seen as a symbol of Harrow. It can be seen from miles around. Since WWI, pilots flying into RAF Northolt have even used it as a landmark to help them navigate.

Important Memorials

The church has special memorials for many important people, including:

  • George Butler, a headmaster from 1805 to 1829.
  • John William Cunningham (1811–1861), a vicar.
  • Byron Drury (1815-1888), an admiral.
  • Joseph Drury, a Head Master from 1785 to 1805.
  • James Edwards, a bookseller.
  • William Gerard, a politician.
  • John Lyon, who founded Harrow School and also helped create the John Lyon School and the John Lyon's Charity.
  • Geoffrey Harold Woolley VC (1944–1952), a vicar.

In the north aisle of the church, you can find memorials for:

  • John Henry North, a politician.
  • William Osgoode (1754-1824), who was the first Chief Justice of Upper Canada (which is now Ontario, Canada).

Filming Location

St Mary's Church was used as a filming location in some of the early scenes of the 2008 British science fantasy movie Franklyn.

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