Surfing facts for kids

Kids Encyclopedia Facts

Quick facts for kids
Surfing
Characteristics
Dustin Ray surfing at the Cayucos Pier, Cayucos, California
Highest governing body	World Surf League (WSL), International Surfing Association (ISA)
Mixed-sex	Yes, separate competitions
Presence
Country or region	Worldwide
Olympic	Will debut in 2020

Surfing is also a verb meaning "To browse the World Wide Web"

Surfing is a fun water sport where you ride ocean waves on a surfboard. You use your board to catch a wave and glide towards the shore.

People in Polynesia invented surfing at least 4000 years ago. It's now a popular sport for everyone, no matter their age or gender. Surfers often have a unique lifestyle. While surfing is done in many Pacific countries, Hawaii is still a major center. Many international surfing championships are held there every year. Surfing is also very popular in Australia, the US, and Northern Europe.

The History of Surfing
How Surf Waves Form
- Wave Types and Surfer Skills
Artificial Waves
Surfing Moves and Tricks
Learning to Surf
Surfing Gear
The Science of Surfing
Related pages
Images for kids
See also

The History of Surfing

For hundreds of years, surfing was a big part of ancient Polynesian culture. British explorers might have first seen surfing in Tahiti in 1767. Samuel Wallis and his crew from the ship HMS Dolphin visited the island that year. Another explorer, Joseph Banks, who was with James Cook on HMS Endeavour, also saw it in 1769. The first person to write about surfing in Hawaii was Lieutenant James King in 1779.

When Mark Twain visited Hawaii in 1866, he wrote about seeing many people having fun "surf-bathing." Surfing on planks and small canoes was also done in ancient Samoa and Tonga. This happened long before Hawaiians and eastern Polynesians started surfing.

In July 1885, three Hawaiian princes, David Kawānanakoa, Edward Keliʻiahonui, and Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole, surfed in Santa Cruz, California. They used special redwood boards. In 1890, John Wrightson became the first British surfer. He was taught by two Hawaiian students at his college.

George Freeth (1883–1919) is often called the "Father of Modern Surfing." He is believed to be the first modern surfer.

In 1907, Henry E. Huntington brought surfing to California. He saw Hawaiian boys surfing and wanted to attract visitors to Redondo Beach. He hired George Freeth to show off surfing. Freeth found the old 500 cm (16 ft) hardwood boards too big. So, he cut them in half, creating the first "Longboard." This made him famous. Freeth showed his surfing skills twice a day at the Hotel Redondo. Another Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku, helped spread surfing to the U.S. and Australia. He rode waves after winning Olympic gold medals in swimming in 1912 and 1920.

In 1975, professional surfing tours began. That year, Margo Oberg became the first female professional surfer.

How Surf Waves Form

A surfer wipes out.

A surfer inside the barrel of a wave

A large wave breaking

Waves, or "swell," are made when wind blows steadily over a large area of open water. The stronger the wind and the longer it blows, the bigger the waves will be. This is why waves are usually bigger on coastlines facing large oceans where strong storms happen.

Local wind also affects how good a wave is. If the wind is too strong, the water surface can get choppy. The best conditions for surfing are when there's a light "offshore" wind. This wind blows from the land towards the ocean, making the wave hollow and creating a ""barrel"" or "tube" shape. Waves can be "Left handed" or "Right handed" depending on how they break.

Waves are often named by the type of seabed they break over. For example, there are beach breaks, reef breaks, and point breaks. The shape of the ocean floor, like a reef or sandbar, greatly affects how a wave breaks. Each surf spot is unique because the underwater shape is different. At beach breaks, sandbanks can change every week. Today, we can use technology to predict waves and find the best surf spots.

Waves are different around the world and throughout the year. In winter, big waves are made in the middle parts of the world. These waves usually travel eastward, so west coasts often have the biggest waves in winter. East coasts also get big winter waves when storms form closer to the tropics.

In summer, big waves can come from tropical storms. These storms form over warm seas and their movements are hard to predict. Some surf trips go to faraway, tropical places where steady "tradewinds" create perfect offshore conditions.

Wave Types and Surfer Skills

The way a wave breaks is important for surfing. Some waves are "square," meaning they break quickly. Others are "round" or "almond" shaped, breaking more slowly. The speed of the wave also depends on its angle.

Waves are generally recognized by the surfaces over which they break:

Beach breaks: Waves break over sand. Sandbanks can change, making these spots unpredictable.
Reef breaks: Waves break over a coral or rock reef. These can create amazing waves but can also be dangerous if you fall.
Point breaks: Waves break around a headland or point of land. These often create long, peeling waves.

Different wave types are better for different skill levels:

Beginners usually surf on smaller, slower waves that break gently. These are often found at beach breaks with a gentle slope.
Experienced surfers look for faster, taller waves with a smaller "peel angle." This means the wave breaks quickly along the line, creating a challenging ride.
Top surfers can handle very fast, powerful waves, including "barrel waves" where the wave curls over them.

Artificial Waves

Sometimes, there are no natural waves, which can be disappointing for surfers on vacation. To solve this, people have built artificial reefs and wave pools. Artificial reefs are like underwater walls made of sandbags or concrete. They help create waves and also protect the coastline from erosion.

Wave pools try to create perfect waves all the time. However, most wave pools make waves that are too small. The Seagaia Ocean Dome in Japan was a famous wave pool that could make waves up to 3 m (10 ft) high. It could even make "barrel" waves! But it was very expensive to build and run, so it closed in 2007.

Today, there are two main types of artificial waves:

Stationary waves: These pump water over a shaped surface, making a wave that stays in one place. The surfer stays still while the water rushes by. These are great for learning the basics.
Wave pools: These try to create waves that move like real ocean waves. In 2018, the first professional surfing competition was held in a wave pool.

Surfing Moves and Tricks

A surfer at Mavericks

A surfer going for the tube

Surfing starts with paddling. You paddle towards the shore to match the speed of the wave. Once the wave pushes your board forward, you stand up and ride! The main goal is to stay just ahead of the breaking part of the wave. For beginners, catching the wave can be the hardest part.

Surfers show their skills by controlling their board in tough conditions and doing cool moves:

Turns and Cutbacks: Turning the board sharply, sometimes back towards the breaking wave.
Carving: A series of strong, quick turns.
Floater: Riding on top of the breaking part of the wave.
Off the Lip: Turning off the top of the breaking wave.
Air/Aerial: Launching off the wave into the air and landing back on it. This is a more advanced trick.

The tube ride is considered the best move in surfing. When a wave breaks perfectly, it forms a hollow tunnel. An experienced surfer can position themselves inside this tunnel as the wave breaks over their head. From the shore, the surfer might disappear inside the wave! The longer you stay in the tube, the better the ride. This is also called "getting tubed," "barreled," "shacked," or "pitted." Famous tube riding spots include Pipeline in Hawaii and Teahupoo in Tahiti.

Other moves include:

Hanging Ten: Putting both feet on the very front of a longboard, with all ten toes hanging off the edge.
Hanging Five: Similar to Hanging Ten, but with only one foot and five toes off the edge.
Top-Turn: Turning off the top of the wave.
Grabs: When a surfer grabs their board during an aerial move to help them stay attached.

There's a whole special language that surfers use to describe different parts of the sport.

Learning to Surf

Kids Surf School

Beginner surfer in Pacific Beach, California

Many popular surf spots have surf schools and camps. These offer lessons for beginners and intermediate surfers. They teach you the basics and help you become a good rider. Some camps even include places to stay, meals, and surfboards.

Most lessons start with safety tips and instructions on land. Then, instructors help students catch waves on long, soft boards. Softboards are great for learning because they are safer, easier to paddle, and more stable than shorter boards. "Funboards" are also popular for beginners. They are a mix between longboards and shortboards.

The best conditions for learning are small, gentle waves that break softly. A sandy seabed is also safer than a rocky one.

Learning to surf involves several skills:

Paddling strength: You need strong arms to paddle out and catch waves. You also learn techniques like "duck diving" to get under oncoming waves.
Positioning: Knowing where to be to catch a wave as it starts to break. This comes with practice.
Timing: Popping up quickly on your board as the wave begins to push you forward.
Balance: This is key for standing on the board. Practicing with a Balance board can help improve your balance.

Surfing uses a lot of energy! Paddling, popping up, and balancing require strength and stamina. A good warm-up can help prevent injuries.

Surfing Gear

Waxing a surfboard

Surfboard leash

You can surf on different types of equipment. These include surfboards, stand up paddle boards (SUPs), bodyboards, and more. Early surfboards were made of solid wood and were very big and heavy. Lighter balsa wood boards came later, making them easier to carry and maneuver.

Most modern surfboards are made of fiberglass foam. They have wooden strips inside for strength. Newer boards use epoxy resin and foam, which are stronger and lighter. Lighter boards float better, making them easier to paddle and faster.

Other important gear includes:

Leash: A cord that connects your ankle to your board. This stops your board from floating away if you fall and keeps it from hitting other surfers.
Surf wax: Rubbed on the board to help your feet grip.
Traction pads: Sticky pads on the board for extra grip.
Fins (skegs): These are on the bottom of the board and help you steer.

What you wear depends on the water temperature. In warm water, surfers wear swimsuits, boardshorts, or rash guards (shirts to prevent rashes). In cold water, surfers wear wetsuits, boots, hoods, and gloves to stay warm. Some rash vests even have titanium for extra warmth without being bulky. Big wave surfers sometimes use inflatable vests for safety.

Longboards at Waikiki beach

There are many different surfboard sizes and shapes:

Longboards: Usually 270 to 300 cm (9 to 10 ft) long. They are like the first surfboards but with modern improvements. They are good for beginners because they are stable.
Shortboards: Became popular in the late 1960s. Today's common "thruster" style has three fins and is usually around 180 to 210 cm (6 to 7 ft) long. They are great for quick turns and tricks.
Funboards: Mid-sized boards that offer a mix of maneuverability and stability.
Fish boards: Shorter, flatter, and wider, often with a split tail. They are good for surfing smaller waves.
Gun boards: Long, thick boards with pointed noses and tails. They are specially designed for riding very big waves.

The Science of Surfing

[[Multiple image |align=right |direction=vertical |width=240 |image1=Nazaré, Portugal (Unsplash 7bt4ngmSu9Y).jpg |caption1=Tow-in surfing in Nazaré, Portugal |image2=Praia do Norte, Nazaré, Portugal (33830450815).jpg |caption2=Giant breaking waves in Praia do Norte |image3=Can you see the surfer? (33988985575).jpg |caption3=The Praia do Norte, Nazaré (North Beach) was listed in the Guinness World Records for the biggest waves ever surfed. ]]

The science of surfing looks at how waves are made, what surfboards are like, and how surfers interact with the water and their boards.

How Waves Form and Break

Ocean waves are created when wind pushes water. These small pushes grow into bigger waves as the wind keeps blowing over a large area. In the open ocean, waves are called "deep-water waves" because the water is so deep they don't touch the bottom.

As deep-water waves travel towards the shore, they become "shallow-water waves." This means the water depth is less than half of the wave's length. When waves reach shallow water, the bottom of the wave drags on the seabed. This causes the wave to slow down, get taller, and eventually the top (crest) falls over, creating a breaking wave. This is what surfers ride!

The "surf zone" is where all these breaking waves happen. The best waves for surfing usually move at about 5 meters per second. Local winds also play a big role.

Onshore winds (blowing from the ocean to land) can make waves choppy and break randomly. These are often better for experienced surfers.
Light offshore winds (blowing from land to ocean) create smooth, hollow waves, often forming "barrel" waves.
Strong offshore winds can flatten weak waves, making them un-surfable.

Surf Breaks

A surf break is a place where something underwater causes waves to break. This could be a rock, a reef, or a sandbar.

Headland (Point Break): A point of land that makes waves bend around it. This creates long, smooth waves that are often easier to surf. Examples include Malibu, California.
Beach Break: Waves break over a sandy bottom. The sandbars can change, making these spots different from day to day.
Reef Break: Waves break over a coral or rock reef. These often create powerful, perfect waves, but can be dangerous if you fall because of the sharp reef. Famous reef breaks are in Hawaii and Tahiti.
Ledge Break: Waves travel over deep water and then suddenly hit a shallow, steep rock ledge. This creates very intense waves, like at Shark Island, Australia.

Rip Currents

Rip currents are strong, narrow currents that flow away from the shore. They are formed when water that has been pushed onto the beach by waves needs to flow back out to sea. Rip currents can be very strong and fast, sometimes moving faster than a human can swim. They can be dangerous, but surfers sometimes use them to get out to the "take off point" (where they catch waves) quickly.

Riding the Surfboard

A longer surfboard, like one 300 cm (10 ft) long, creates more friction with the water, so it's slower. Longer boards are good for beginners because they are more stable. Shorter, lighter boards, like one 180 cm (6 ft) long, are faster and allow for more control and tricks. These are better for experienced surfers.

When you're surfing, you paddle very fast to match the wave's speed. Once the wave starts pushing you, you quickly stand up. You need to stay low and towards the front of the board to keep your balance. Leaning forward helps you gain speed, while leaning back helps you slow down. To make your ride last longer, you should try to travel parallel to the wave's crest.