St Mary's Church, Southampton facts for kids
Quick facts for kids Saint Mary's Church |
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Saint Mary's Southampton | |
![]() Saint Mary's Church from the southeast, showing the older tower and spire with the rebuilt body of the church
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50°54′10″N 1°23′42″W / 50.90287°N 1.39506°W | |
Location | Southampton, Hampshire, England |
Denomination | Church of England |
Churchmanship | Charismatic evangelical Anglican |
History | |
Status | Parish church |
Founded | c. 634 |
Dedication | Mary, Mother of Jesus |
Architecture | |
Functional status | Active |
Heritage designation | Grade II listed |
Designated | 14 July 1953 |
Architect(s) | G. E. Street |
Style | Gothic Revival |
Years built | 1878–1954 |
Specifications | |
Spire height | 200 feet (61 m) |
Materials | Exterior: Purbeck stone Interior: Bath stone |
Bells | 10 |
Tenor bell weight | 21 long cwt 2 qr 8 lbs (2,416 lb or 1,096 kg) |
Administration | |
Parish | Saint Mary Southampton |
Deanery | Southampton |
Archdeaconry | Bournemouth |
Diocese | Diocese of Winchester |
Province | Province of Canterbury |
Saint Mary's Church is a very important church in Southampton, Hampshire, England. It is often called the "civic church" because of its role in the city. The church was first started around the year 634. Since then, it has been known as the "mother church" of Southampton.
The building you see today is actually the sixth church on this spot. Most of it was rebuilt between 1954 and 1956. This was after it was badly damaged during the Southampton Blitz in World War II. However, the tall tower and spire are much older, dating from 1912 to 1914. They are so special that they are a Grade II listed building.
As the city's mother church, Saint Mary's is the tallest and largest church in Southampton. This makes it a well-known landmark. Even the famous St Mary's Stadium is named after it! The church is also famous for its beautiful stained glass windows and its amazing organ. Its bells even inspired the song "The Bells of St. Mary's". This song was recorded by Frances Alda and later sung by Bing Crosby in a movie of the same name.
Contents
History of Saint Mary's Church
The First Church: Saxon Beginnings
The very first church on this site was likely built around 634 AD. This was when Saint Birinus visited Hamwic, an old port town. He was on a mission to bring Christianity back to England. This first church was a small Saxon building. It controlled a large area of the town, from the River Itchen to what is now Northam.
Not much is known about this early church. Historians believe that during King Canute's rule (1016-1035), the town of Hamwic moved. It relocated closer to where the Test and Itchen rivers meet. The old Saxon port and its church were then left behind.
The Second Church: Medieval Rebuilding
The story of the church's rebuilding in the 12th century comes from Leland's writings in 1546. He said that Queen Matilda, wife of Henry I, ordered its reconstruction. The first church had fallen apart, except for a small chapel. This chapel was dedicated to Saint Nicholas and was still used.
The second church was named 'Our Lady Blessed Virgin Mary'. It was known as the 'great church'. This showed how important it was as the mother church of the town. This was true even though it was built outside the city walls.
In 1281, there was an argument about the church's importance. The leader of St Mary's and priests from other churches disagreed. They argued about whether St Mary's should be the main church. The Bishop of Winchester settled the dispute. He sent someone to investigate. The result was that other churches agreed St Mary's was the mother church.
In 1549, much of the church was destroyed. This was ordered by government officials. It might have been a punishment for the rector, William Capon. He had gone against their decision to take church lands. The rubble from the church was used to build a new road from Bargate. Only the chancel (the area around the altar) was left standing.
In 1551, the remaining church land was leased to Robert Reniger. He was a former Sheriff of Southampton. One rule of the lease was that the rector would get £18 a year from the land. Services continued to be held in the chancel.
The Third and Fourth Churches: Georgian and Victorian Changes
By the early 1700s, St Mary's Church was in very poor condition. The priest, Doctor Clutterbuck, tried to have it rebuilt but failed. His successor, Ralph Brideoake, finally succeeded. He started building a new nave (the main part of the church) in 1711. This was in the Georgian style and cost £920. The chancel was rebuilt in 1723 for £400.
At the end of the 1700s, Southampton's population grew a lot. By 1801, it had more than 10,000 people. So, the church building was changed and made bigger. This happened under Francis North, who became rector in 1797. Aisles were added outside, and galleries were added inside. This helped the church hold more people. It was officially reopened in 1833.
The population kept growing, especially after Southampton Docks opened in 1838. Houses were built on church land. By 1861, the population had nearly tripled to over 60,000. The church, even after its 1833 changes, was getting old. Its construction was not very strong. Because of the growing population and the church's condition, the Bishop of Winchester, Samuel Wilberforce, pushed for a new church.
The Fifth Church: A Grand Victorian Design
In 1871, Bishop Wilberforce passed away. The idea of rebuilding the church gained support. Many thought it could be a memorial to him. So, his son, William Wilberforce, hired a famous architect, George Edmund Street. Street looked at the church and said the whole building needed to be replaced. He was then chosen to design the new church.
Money was raised for the new building. The foundation stone was laid on August 12, 1878. Important people like Edward, Prince of Wales (who later became Edward VII), and Alexandra, Princess of Wales, attended. This stone became part of the north chancel aisle. The church was partly finished and opened on June 21, 1879.
The ceremony was very special. Both the Archbishop of Canterbury, Archibald Campbell Tait, and the Archbishop of York, William Thomson, preached. This is believed to be the only time both Archbishops have preached in the same church on the same day in Church of England history.
Building continued until 1884, when the main church was finished. However, the upper parts of the tower and spire were not built yet. Street himself died in 1881, but construction followed his plans. The church was not fully completed for another 30 years. From 1912 to 1914, the tower and spire were finally built. The rector, Canon Lovett, even placed the weathervane on top in 1914. This completion cost £2,562.
The finished church was in the High Gothic Revival style. It had influences from 13th-century designs. It featured a nave with aisles, north and south transepts, and a chancel. There was also a tall southwest tower with a spire.
The Sixth Church: Rising from the Ashes
Southampton was a major port city. This made it a target for the Luftwaffe (German air force) during the Blitz. The city was attacked 57 times. The raid on November 30, 1940, was the worst. St Mary's Church was hit many times by fire bombs. A fire started and destroyed most of the building. The rector and his team tried to save it, but couldn't.
By morning, the church was mostly ruins. Only the tower, spire, and a round baptistery survived. They were empty inside, but still stood. The lower walls also survived. However, most of the church's treasures, stained glass, roofs, and fittings were lost.
After the war, much of the city was in ruins. The council felt that homes were more important than rebuilding the church. In 1946, they offered a new site, but it was turned down. The church leaders decided to restore the tower and spire first. These were the only parts left standing. This restoration happened from 1945 to 1948. The bells rang again in 1948, and a service was held in the ruins.
The decision to rebuild the main part of the church came later, in the early 1950s. Construction took place from February 1954 to June 1956. The new design kept the church's original shape and lower walls. However, it added modern touches. The architect was Romilly Craze. The church was officially reopened on June 12, 1956. About 1,400 people attended the service.
Modern Updates
In 2018, the church announced a big renovation project. It cost £800,000. The goal was to make the church more modern and attract younger people. Inside, a kitchen and serving area were added. New lights and sound systems were installed. Toilets were updated, and a stage was put in the center. Many of the 1950s fittings were replaced. A new font was placed at the east end, and the roof was repaired.
As part of these changes, a new vicar was brought in. The church's style of worship also became more Charismatic Evangelical.
Architecture of Saint Mary's
Outside the Church
The outside of the church has a traditional cruciform (cross-shaped) design. It has a main area (nave) with aisles, and a chancel. These are crossed by north and south transepts. There is also a small, round baptistery at the west end. A tall tower is at the same end, and vestries (rooms for clergy) are east of the chancel. The church building covers a large area of 1,117 square metres (12,020 sq ft). This makes it a "very large" church.
The outside is mostly built from Purbeck stone and ashlar (cut stone). Bath stone is used for decoration. Different architects worked on the church over time. So, its style is a mix, sometimes called "Neo-Cistercian". It combines the lower walls from Street's original design, the upper walls by Craze, and the tower and spire by Street's son.
The most striking part of the outside is the huge tower and spire. They reach 200 feet (61 m) high. This makes St Mary's the tallest church in Hampshire. While some people didn't like the main church building after its rebuild, they praised the tower and spire. One expert called it "one of the finest Victorian steeples in England."
The tower has three main sections. Only the lowest part was finished when the main church was built. The top two sections were added from 1912-1914. The bottom section has a fancy doorway on its south side. Above it are two large windows. The middle section has two tall, narrow windows on each side. The top section has huge openings for the bells. The spire starts at the top of the bell tower. It begins square and then becomes octagonal. It has small windows called lucarnes.
Inside the Church
Overview of the Interior
The inside of the church looks very different from the outside. It mostly shows the style of Craze's post-war rebuilding. The interior is tall and open, but quite simple. It has high, plain arches. When you enter through the main door, the round baptistery is on your left. This is the only part of the church, besides the tower, that survived the bombing unchanged. The tower entrance is on your right.
The main part of the church is seven sections long. Four sections are for the nave, two for the chancel, and one for the crossing. The roof here is open, showing the wooden beams. These beams are supported by large arches that spring from thin columns. The north and south transepts are a bit lower than the nave and chancel.
Beyond the crossing, the Seafarers' Chapel is at the end of the north chancel aisle. The organ is in the south chancel aisle. The Seafarers' Chapel celebrates Southampton's history as a port city. It has a nautical theme. At the entrance, you can see flags from many shipping companies. A ship's binnacle (a case for a compass) is used as a lectern (a stand for reading).
Stained Glass Windows
The church's stained glass windows are very special. Many were destroyed by the fire in 1940. However, some important ones survived. The baptistery still has all its original glass. These five windows were made by Clayton & Bell. They show different Bible figures like Moses, Christ, Noah, and Philip. Most of the other windows have new glass, but they keep Street's original designs.
Important modern windows include the four main ones: west, east, north, and south. The main west and east windows have glass designed by Gerald E. Smith. The west window is the largest. It shows Christ in Majesty with many scenes in the background. The east window shows scenes from the Bible after Jesus's Resurrection.
The south transept window has two parts. The bottom has three tall, narrow windows. The top has a rose window (a round window with patterns). The glass in these was made by James Clark & Eaton. The three lower windows show religious symbols. The rose window shows more Bible symbols. The north transept window is simpler. It has one large window designed by Christopher Webb. It shows Saint Barnabas.
Two other windows in the church have a nautical theme. The large window in the Seafarers' Chapel shows Christ over the sea, looking down on modern ships. This glass was also designed by Smith. In May 2018, a special window was installed. It remembers the 100th anniversary of the Titanic disaster. This window shows an angel rising from the water. It holds a scroll that says "the crew." Below the angel are 669 colored orbs. Each orb represents a life lost from Southampton on the Titanic. A quote from the Song of Solomon is at the bottom: "many waters cannot quench love." The Titanic's name and sinking date are at the top.
The Organ
The first record of an organ at the church is from when it was rebuilt by Street (1878-1884). A large organ was bought for £1,300 from Henry Willis & Sons. This organ had three keyboards (manuals). After some changes, it had 38 stops (sets of pipes). In 1931, the company rebuilt the organ. They added six more stops, making 44 in total. They also made it electric. This organ was destroyed when the church was bombed in 1940.
The organ used today is also a large Willis organ. Most of its pipes are new from 1956. However, some pipes came from an older Willis organ in Stirling, dating back to 1883. This organ has stayed mostly the same since it was installed. It had some repairs in 1994 after a roof leak.
This organ is one of the largest and best in any church on the South Coast of England. It has 3,383 pipes. These are controlled by 61 speaking stops across three manuals (keyboards) and a pedalboard. The organ is located in the south chancel aisle.
The Bells
Original Bells
We don't have records of bells in the first four church buildings. But it's likely they had at least one bell, as was common. An old picture of the church from the 1700s shows a small tower. Bells would probably have been hung there. When the fifth church was built (1878-1884), only the lowest part of the tower was finished. It was too low for bells.
Bells could only be installed in 1913, when the tower was made taller. Over £2,500 had been raised for the tower and spire. But almost £1,000 more was needed for the bells. This money came from a local resident, Mary Ann Wingrove. She donated it in memory of her late husband, Robert. A metal plaque at the base of the tower remembers her gift.
The first set of bells was a beautiful ring of eight. They were made by the John Taylor & Co foundry in Loughborough in 1914. They cost £909. Each bell thanks Wingrove for her donation. The bells were hung in a new iron frame. The largest bell weighed 22 long cwt (1,100 kg). The first full peal (a long sequence of bell changes) was on January 8, 1916. It lasted over three hours. This was to remember those who died in the First World War.
Douglas Furber and A. Emmett Adams heard these bells ringing across the River Itchen. They were waiting for their ship. The sound inspired them to write the song “The Bells of St. Mary’s.” This song became very popular worldwide.
In 1933, two lighter bells were added. This made it a ring of ten bells. John Taylor & Co cast these new bells. They were hung above the existing eight bells. These new bells used modern ball bearings. The new bells were dedicated on January 13, 1934.
Current Bells
The original bells were destroyed in the bombing on November 30, 1940. The tower itself wasn't hit by bombs. But fire from the church spread into it, burning the inside of the tower. One bell fell through two floors and broke. An inspection in 1941 found that several bells were cracked or had lost their sound. The bells were removed in 1942 to be recast later.
After Victory in Europe Day (VE Day), all ten bells were recast in Loughborough. They were the first bells destroyed by bombing in the country to be restored. It was hoped to reuse the old frame. But inspections in 1946 showed fire damage had weakened it. So, a new iron frame was installed for all ten bells on one level. New parts were added, including ball bearings.
The bells were rededicated and rung for the first time on June 20, 1948. This service was held in the church ruins. A report in The Ringing World said the new bells had a "splendid tone." The church's bells are still mostly as they were in 1948. In 2014, they had major maintenance. This included cleaning, repainting, and acoustic work in the tower. An electronic system was added to control the volume of the bells outside. This helps with recreational ringing. The bells are known for their rich sound and attract visitors.
Football Club Connection
In 1880, the St. Mary's church football team started playing. It was founded by the church's curate, Rev. Arthur Baron Sole. By November 1885, a new club was formed by members of the St. Mary's Church of England Young Men's Association. They played as "St. Mary's Young Men's Association F.C." This name was shortened to "St. Mary's F.C." in 1887–88.
When the club joined the Southern Football League in 1894, they became "Southampton St. Mary's F.C." After winning the Southern League title in 1896–97, the club became a company. They changed their name to "Southampton F.C." The club still has a connection to the church through its nickname, "The Saints." From 1887 to 1896, the church owned their first permanent home, the Antelope Ground.