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Wigtown
Wigtown County Buildings.JPG
Wigtown County Buildings, formerly the seat of Wigtownshire County Council
Wigtown is located in Dumfries and Galloway
Wigtown
Wigtown
Population 880 (2020)
OS grid reference NX435555
Council area
Lieutenancy area
Country Scotland
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Post town NEWTON STEWART
Postcode district DG8
Dialling code 01988
Police Dumfries and Galloway
Fire Dumfries and Galloway
Ambulance Scottish
EU Parliament Scotland
UK Parliament
  • Dumfries and Galloway
Scottish Parliament
  • Galloway and West Dumfries
List of places
UK
Scotland
54°52′12″N 4°26′20″W / 54.870°N 4.439°W / 54.870; -4.439
Wigtown main street - geograph.org.uk - 212442
Wigtown

Wigtown (/ˈwɪɡtənˌ -tn/ (both used locally); Scottish Gaelic: Baile na h-Ùige) is a town and former royal burgh in Wigtownshire, of which it is the county town, within the Dumfries and Galloway region in Scotland. It lies east of Stranraer and south of Newton Stewart. It is known as "Scotland's National Book Town" with a high concentration of second-hand book shops and an annual book festival.

Wigtown is part of the Machars peninsula.

History

Name origins

W.F.H. Nicolaisen offered two explanations for the place-name Wigtown. One theory was that is meant ‘dwelling place’, from the Old English 'wic-ton'; however, if it is the same as Wigton in Cumbria, which was 'Wiggeton' in 1162 and 'Wigeton' in 1262, it may be ‘Wigca’s farm'. Other sources have suggested a Norse root with 'Vik' meaning 'bay', giving the origin as a translation of 'The town on the bay'.

Neolithic Age

Torhousekie Stone Circle
Torehousekie Stone Circle dating from 2nd millennium BC, is one of the best preserved sites in Britain. It is approx. 60ft in diameter.

The surrounding area (the Machars peninsula) is rich in prehistoric remains, most notably the Torhousekie Standing Stones, a Neolithic stone circle set on a raised platform of smaller stones. It consists of nineteen boulders up to 5 feet high aligned to the winter solstice, surrounding a ring cairn on which there are 3 large stones (flankers), two upright and one recumbent. On a low ridge across the road from the circle there are another three stones.

Burgh – Medieval period

Andrew Symson, a 17th-century minister, suggested the first settlement would have stood on low-lying sands between the present-day Wigtown and Creetown.

A large, broad street was the focal point of settlement in the medieval town, but it was greatly altered at the beginning of the main street which in turn terminated in the latter-day Bank Street. High Vennel and low vennel are both early thoroughfares. The burgh appeared briefly in the customs report for 1330 and 1331, but the amount collected was small and its hey-day as a port was principally in the 15th century. Even at the best of times, trade in the south-west of Scotland was small in quantity.

The royal burgh was granted to Sir Malcolm Fleming by David II in 1341. In 1372 Wigtown passed to the Earls of Douglas, upon the sale of the Earldom to Archibald the Grim, but was restored to its former tenure as a royal burgh as a result of the forfeiture of the Douglases in 1455. Its status was formally recognised be a royal charter in 1457 and from then the burgh was firmly fixed by a feud-charter at the old figure of £20 per annum.

Wigtown was made a royal burgh in 1469 although a settlement here existed long before this. Wigtown attended Parliament regularly from 1469 and the Convention of Royal Burghs from 1575. In 1500-01 only two ships called at Wigtown and Kirkcudbright, and at other times there was no overseas trade at all.

"Two Gates"

Wigtown had two ports [gates] which some writers have asserted were closed at night to form a large cattle enclosure. Andrew Symson referred to the East Port, which stood near NX 4352 5545 (Ordnance Survey Record Cards, NX 45 NW 18), The West Port stood opposite the mouth of the High Vennel and traces of it were still to be seen in the 1930s. The ports of the town were formed by projecting houses stretching across the street from both sides and a gate being placed in the centre. In the late 19th century, one of these projecting houses still stood at the site of the West Port, and was a thing, in his opinion, ‘anything but ornamental to the town’. The West Port can be seen on the map at the Cross, on the junction of North and South Mount Streets. (To view, hold down (Shift) key, and move your cursor on map at maps:nls.uk).

In 1742 there is a reference to digging a well outside the west Port. This well would probably have been the one known as the White Pump.

The town council in 1761 decided that the ports were ‘hurtful to the place’ in that they ‘greatly incommode the carrying of corps of the deceased through the same’. Stone from the ports, which were ordered to be pulled down to their foundations, was ordered to be stored in a most secure manner, so that ‘they may answer the uses of the burgh when they have the occasion’.

13th-century burgh

The burgh is mentioned in an indenture of 1292, and that the sheriffdom was in existence at the time of the Largs campaign of 1263 suggests that the burgh may also have been recognised as such during the reign of Alexander III.

13th-century friary and wells

Two wells were supposed to have been at the castle and friary respectively.

Blackfriars, the Dominican friary, was founded at "Friarland" north of the mouth of the Bladnoch, south-east of the town of Wigtown, by Devorgilla, half-sister of Thomas McDowell of Garthland Stoneykirk in 1267 Clan Macdowall. Dervorgilla married John Balliol, 5th Baron de Balliol and was mother of King John Balliol. Thomas McDowell claimed the Kingdom of Galloway and may have been in custody at "Friarland" in later life.

The friars had been granted the fishings on the south side of the Bladnoch and in 1526 James V gave them those on the north side as well in a 13-year lease which was subsequently turned into a gift. On this fishing stood the town’s mill.

13th-century castle

The castle of Wigtown was in existence by 1291, on flat land down by the River Bladnoch, (outlines clearly seen on an aerial view), whilst the town and church were on a hill, "an inversion of the usual arrangements". Nothing remains of the castle, although a strong natural site and indication of a large enclosed and defended area seems to point to a castle of the Edwardian type (Edward I) dating from the end of the 13th century. The site of the castle was excavated after a fashion about 1830, by a Captain Robert M’Kerlie and a team of volunteers. The outlines of a building were clearly traced on that occasion and a ditch, which had been broad, was distinctly seen on the north where there was also a semi-circular ridge of considerable elevation said to be the remains of the castle's outer wall. A few years later, a reporter in the New Statistical Account wrote that a fosse was quite discernible, although "the foundations of the walls cannot now be traced". Mortar and "other remains indicative of an ancient building" were still to be observed.

The castle's history is virtually unknown, but it may have been used by the leaders of Clan MacDowall. The Adair history relates that their ancestor slew the commander of Wigtown Castle. Bruce may have issued orders for its slighting. The only known hint of its existence after the period of the Wars of Independence occurs in a charter of 1451 in which a turris (tower) of Wigtown is mentioned. Its convenience as a local quarry undoubtedly accounts for its total disappearance.

15th and 16th centuries

Among the five west coast trading ports, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown were the great rivals. In 1471 Wigtown exported £17 10s 0d worth of goods and Kirkcudbright £23 15s 0d. A few years later in Wigtown exported 1,250 hides as opposed to 1,000 for Kirkcudbright. Naturally, the emergence of Wigtown hurt Kirkcudbright as a trading port; however, as Kirkcudbright declined so in time did Wigtown. Part of Wigtown’s decline may be because she did not get involved in the herring trade, which was the major export for a number of west coast ports such as Ayr and Irvine in the 15th century. Moreover, Wigtown was a conservative merchant community, and its exclusive trading privileges granted to them by James II increasingly became threatened by Whithorn.

The earliest reference to the market cross and tron of Wigtown occurs in the 1457 charter. It appears that the market cross stood in front of the old court house and was removed for a short time in the 18th century. While the square was under construction, the market cross was stored in the jail, A second market cross was erected in the main street in 1816, and at some point the original was brought out of its confinement and placed to the west of it. At some time later the older market cross was repaired, re-painted, and re-sited to the east of the second.

An early reference to a tollbooth in Wigtown occurs in 1591, and it is possible that this structure was blown up by gunpowder in the 18th century to make way for the market (or court) house mentioned by Bishop Pococke in 1760 and another 18th-century writer, Samuel Robinson. This municipal building is its turn gave way to the current county buildings which were erected in 1862, a with its unusual French-style architecture. The county buildings were restored in 2002/2003 following decades of neglect.

17th century

Andrew Symson, a 17th-century minister of the church at Kirkinner, left a description of Wigtown. Writing in 1684, he described Wigtown as an indifferently, but well-built town with a large, broad street. By the late 17th and early 18th centuries, Wigtown Market does not appear to have been regularly attended. In 1683 the town council was forced to take steps to encourage attendance at the weekly market and to discourage forestallers and regraters, i.e. those who would sell goods before the official market time, or later resell items at a profit. The legislation seems to have had little effect, for in the following year, Andrew Symson noted that the town was of "small trading…. Their market day is Monday; but it is not frequent". The 1692 report to the Convention of Royal Burghs also observed that the town had no weekly market, but did maintain four yearly fairs. Market facilities also appear to have been poor, with no covered area. In recent years Wigtown has held a market in the square on Saturdays during the summer and in the county buildings in winter.

Wigtown's position on the stent rolls shows a steady decline in her economic position during the 17th century. In 1597, Wigtown was set tax at 15 shillings, Dumfries paid 36 shillings and eight pence, Whithorn, five shillings and Kirkcudbright, 18 shillings. In 1649, Dumfries had shown a marked increase, but the rest had all declined. Wigtown paid a set rate of 14 shillings in 1649, and the figure remained the same in 1670, but slumped to six shillings in 1692. The report to the Convention of Royal Burghs in that same year pessimistically reported that there was no foreign trade and that the town owned no ships or boats. Existing inland trade was "very considerable" and came in from Ayr, Glasgow and Dumfries.

Wigtown Martyrs

Monuments to the 'Wigtown Martyrs' exist in Wigtown. During "The Killing Times" of the Covenanters in the 17th century, Margaret McLachlan, an elderly woman in her 60s, and Margaret Willson, a teenager, were sentenced to be tied to stakes in the tidal channel of the River Bladnoch near its entrance to Wigtown Bay to be drowned by the incoming tide. The ploy was that the younger woman might be persuaded to change her mind after watching the older woman drown. The strategy failed and both died. This execution was carried out by dragoons under the command of Major Windram in the presence of Sir Robert Grierson of Lag who held the King's Commission to suppress the rebels in the South West. Their story, as told in various sources, tells how the women were betrayed by an informer. After about a month in prison they were tried as rebels and sentenced to death by drowning. The story of the Wigtown Martyrs was among those collected by Robert Wodrow and published in his History of the Sufferings of the Church of Scotland from the Restoration to the Revolution. The Church of Scotland synod had decided in 1708 to collect accounts of persecution under the Stuart monarchs, and persuaded Wodrow to take on the research. He wrote that Thomas Wilson "lives now in his father's room, and is ready to attest all I am writing."

18th century

Throughout the 18th century, Wigtown remained primarily an agricultural town, serving an intensely rural area. Like other towns in Galloway, Wigtown did not grow to any appreciable size. The population of the parish was 1,032 in 1755, while in 1739, it stood at 1,350. The reporter in the Statistical Account noted that the population was declining in the rural parish and increasing in the town for two reasons: one, because of the enlargement of the farms which forced farms servants to seek employment in the town, and secondly, because of the Irish immigrants.

Residents of Wigtown and the surrounding area earned their livings in a variety of ways. An 18th-century observer, Samuel Robinson commented that from its ‘peculiar position in relation to the sea’, the county of Wigtown offered ‘many singular advantages to the landing of smuggled goods and smugglers were not slow in taking advantage of smuggled goods and smugglers were not slow in taking advantage of this’. Wigtown town council in July 1774 recognised the ‘pernicious and fatal consequences’ of smuggling all types of prohibited goods, particularly tea, from the Isle of Man. The council further denounced the drinking of tea and brandy as their purchase drained specie from the county which could be more naturally employed in the manufacture of their own wool. Despite this plea, it was only at the end of the century that the town appears to have adopted industry. The reporter in the Statistical Account noted that in Wigtown, as in almost all the other towns in Galloway, there was a want of industry; however, ‘something of a manufacturing spirit has arisen in this part of the county’. Two small wool and cotton manufactures were introduced into the town in the early 1790s, and although the woollen industry was much healthier than the cotton, both exported goods to England.

One 18th-century historian of the county, Samuel Robinson, noted that "the greatest number of houses were of a homely character, thatched and one storey high". Each house, he continued, had a midden in front of it. Bishop Pococke in 1760 also noted the existence of thatched houses. By the end of the 19th century it was said that two houses in the town were hardly the same; some had gable ends, others had large fronts pierced by pigeon-hole windows, while still others had outside stairs.

Education

Wigtown Primary School is based in New Road in Wigtown.

Churches

Wigtown Parish Church was designed in the Gothic Revival style and completed in 1858.

Sacred Heart Catholic Church was designed in the Gothic Revival style and completed in 1879 to a design by the Edinburgh architect John George Garden Brown.

Wigtown Quaker Meeting House is as at Chapel Court, South Main Street.

Wigtown Baptist Church is in Southfield Lane.

Places of interest

Wigtown lies less than 1 mile (2 kilometres) from Bladnoch, a village with a distillery producing malt whisky of the same name. The River Bladnoch can be fished for Atlantic salmon and has historically been well known as one of Scotland's finest rivers producing spring fish. It meets the River Cree in Wigtown Bay, meandering through a large area of salt marsh which has been designated as a Local Nature Reserve (LNR). Wigtown Bay is the largest LNR in Britain, and is home to a wealth of wildlife, particularly birds. Some people come to admire them from the comfort of the viewing hides situated near the harbour, others, wildfowlers, come to harvest some of the plentiful ducks and geese attracted by the extensive conservation work carried out by the Wigtown Wildfowling Club. The first pair of ospreys to return to Galloway in over 100 years arrived in 2004. A live camera link to their nest was created and can be viewed in the Wigtown County Buildings.

To the east of Wigtown is The Martyrs' Stake, a monument marking the traditional site where the Wigtown Martyrs were drowned in the 17th century. Their graves are in the Parish Church cemetery. There is a small cell in the County Buildings in which they were imprisoned prior to their execution. This cell is all that remains of a much older building which was largely destroyed to make way for the County Buildings (built in 1862).

In popular culture

Within the fictional Harry Potter universe, Wigtown is the home of a Quidditch team, the Wigtown Wanderers.

Notable people

HelenCarte1885
Painting of Helen D'Oyly Carte by Walter Richard Sickert, c. 1885, entitled The Acting Manager
  • John McConnell Black, botanist and linguist.
  • Robert Cance, member of the Wisconsin State Assembly.
  • Helen D'Oyly Carte, hotelier and theatre producer and manager.
  • Although the actor James Robertson Justice was not (as he claimed) born at Wigtown, he did have ancestral links with the area.
  • Dave Kevan, professional footballer for Notts County and Stoke City between 1985 and 1994; ex caretaker-manager at Notts County.
  • Paul Laverty, Ken Loach's preferred screenwriter (I, Daniel Blake, The Wind that Shakes the Barley, Carla's Song, etc.), grew up in the town and was educated at All Souls' School in Wigtown.
  • Adrian J McDowall, BAFTA award-winning film and television director grew up in Wigtown.
  • John McFadyean, veterinary surgeon and professor of veterinary science was born in Wigtown.
  • Louis McGuffie, Victoria Cross holder. He was aged 24 and the son of Mrs Catherine McGuffie of 1 North Main Street, Wigtown. He is buried at the Zantvoorde British Cemetery, Zonnebeke, Belgium.
  • Ian Niall, author. His book The Wigtown Ploughman gave its name to one of the local pubs.
  • Mary Broadfoot Walker, a physician noted for first demonstrating the effectiveness of physostigmine in treating myasthenia gravis.
  • Margaret Wilson, 17th-century Covenanter martyr for the Free Church in Scotland.

Gallery

See also

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