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Francisco Vázquez de Coronado
Coronado-Remington (cropped).jpg
Painting by Frederic Remington, c. 1900
Governor of New Galicia
Monarch Charles I
Personal details
Born 1510 (1510)
Salamanca, Crown of Castile
Died 22 September 1554(1554-09-22) (aged 43–44)
Mexico City, Viceroyalty of New Spain
Signature
Military service
Allegiance  Spain
Battles/wars

Francisco Vázquez de Coronado was a Spanish conquistador and explorer who lived in the sixteenth century. He led a massive journey of discovery across parts of North America between 1540 and 1542. His group started in modern Mexico and traveled all the way to present-day Kansas. Along the way, his expedition explored vast areas of the American Southwest. Coronado was searching for rich cities filled with treasure, known as the mythical Seven Cities of Gold. While he never found mountains of gold, his journey made major discoveries for Europeans. His party was the first from Europe to view the mighty Grand Canyon and explore the winding Colorado River. Today, he is remembered as one of the most famous figures during the early era of North American exploration.

Early Life and Move to New Spain

Coronado was born into a noble family in Salamanca, Spain, around the year 1510. His parents were Juan Vázquez de Coronado and Isabel de Luján. His father served in the government of the Emirate of Granada under the governor Íñigo López de Mendoza y Quiñones. Because Francisco was a second son, he did not inherit the main family estate. He decided to seek his fortune across the ocean in the Americas.

In 1535, at about twenty-five years old, he traveled to New Spain, which is modern-day Mexico. He traveled with Antonio de Mendoza, the very first Viceroy of the colony. Mendoza was a close friend of his family and helped Coronado establish a new life. In Mexico, Coronado married Beatriz de Estrada, whose father was Treasurer and Governor Alonso de Estrada y Hidalgo, Lord of Picón. Her mother was Marina Flores Gutiérrez de la Caballería, who came from a converso Jewish family. Through his marriage, Coronado gained management of a large agricultural estate called an encomienda. Coronado and Beatriz built a home together and eventually raised eight children.

Preparing the Great Expedition to the North

The Legend of the Golden Cities

Coronado soon became an important leader in the Spanish colony. He was appointed the leader of Nueva Galicia, an area covering parts of modern Mexican states like Jalisco, Sinaloa, and Nayarit. During this time, stories spread about wealthy civilizations hidden far to the north. In 1539, Coronado sent a scout named Friar Marcos de Niza northward from Compostela. Traveling with him was Estevanico, a famous explorer who had survived the daring Narváez expedition.

When Friar Marcos returned, he claimed to have seen a sparkling city named Cíbola perched high on a hill. He reported that the town was huge, shining, and populated by the Zuni. The friar claimed that it looked even grander than Mexico City. This thrilling report convinced many people that the legendary Seven Cities of Gold were real. Viceroy Antonio de Mendoza and Coronado decided to organize a huge expedition to find these treasures. Coronado put up his own family fortune to help pay for the supplies, horses, and equipment.

Planning and Advance Scouting

Before the entire army moved out, the viceroy wanted to be certain of the route. He sent an officer named Melchior Díaz from the outpost at San Miguel de Culiacán to scout ahead. Díaz rode out in late 1539 with fifteen scouts on horseback. He reached the desert wilderness near a place called Chichilticalli before icy winds forced him back. Díaz warned Coronado that Friar Marcos had exaggerated the beauty and riches of the northern lands. However, plans for the major expedition were already under way.

Coronado expedition
The Coronado Expedition route through the Southwest to Kansas.

Coronado gathered a large team in early 1540. It included around 400 European soldiers, several Franciscan friars including Juan de Padilla, and up to 2,000 Mexican Indian allies. Many helpers, servants, and family members joined the long march as well. The expedition was split into two main sections. One group traveled by sea under Hernando de Alarcón to carry food and tools along the coast. The other group, led by Coronado himself, traveled entirely on foot and horseback.

Journey Through the Southwest

Marching Across the Desert

Coronado-Remington
Coronado Sets Out to the North, painted by Frederic Remington.

The land army started its journey from Compostela in February 1540. Coronado led his troops north along the coast, keeping the blue waters of the Gulf of California on their left. They paused to rest at San Miguel de Culiacán before plunging into rugged inland territory. Scouting reports showed that finding enough food and water for thousands of people and animals would be very difficult. Coronado smartly divided his forces into smaller groups so the natural desert springs would not dry up.

Leaving Culiacán in April, the advance team pushed through rocky passes toward the Sinaloa River. They crossed rivers and hiked through steep canyons to reach the Yaqui River. Next, they followed the Rio Sonora northward into mountain territory, crossing near modern Montezuma Pass. They traveled past the Huachuca Mountains and found a stream near the Santa Cruz or San Pedro river valleys in southern Arizona.

They pushed through the Sulphur Springs Valley, situated near the Dos Cabezas and Chiricahua Mountains. Soon, they arrived at the site known as Chichilticalli, where the desert landscape shifted into broad plains. Finally, the advance guard reached the settlements of the Zuni.

Reaching the Pueblos of Cíbola

When Coronado reached the village of Hawikuh, he faced immense disappointment. There was no gold, silver, or precious jewels anywhere in sight. Instead of a golden city, Cíbola was simply a modest stone and adobe settlement built by the Zuni. The Spanish soldiers were upset with Friar Marcos for his exaggerated claims, and the friar was sent back home.

The Spanish explorers were exhausted, hungry, and desperate for food. The local Zuni leaders did not welcome the newcomers into their community. A battle broke out when the Spanish forced their way into the village to take corn and supplies. Coronado was struck by stones and hurt during the fight, but his troops took control of the village. The army used Hawikuh as a temporary camp to rest, recover, and plan smaller scouting trips across the region.

Exploring the Grand Canyon and Colorado River

La conquista del Colorado
Spanish explorers looking out across the vast canyon landscape.

While resting at Zuni, Coronado sent his lieutenants to explore other parts of the unknown countryside. Officer Pedro de Tovar traveled northwest to visit villages inhabited by the Hopi. The Hopi people told the Spaniards about a huge river that flowed further to the west.

Coronado then dispatched another scout, García López de Cárdenas, to find this great river. Guided by Hopi guides, Cárdenas and his men traveled across high plateaus. Suddenly, they arrived at the South Rim of the magnificent Grand Canyon. They became the very first Europeans to gaze upon this massive natural wonder. Looking down from the dizzying rim, the Colorado River appeared like a tiny ribbon thousands of feet below. A few soldiers tried to climb down the steep cliffs to get water, but they could not reach the bottom.

Farther to the west, Hernando de Alarcón navigated ships up the Sea of Cortés and entered the mouth of the Colorado River. He tried to deliver supplies to Coronado, but the rugged desert separated them. Alarcón buried supply crates and left a note sealed safely in a bottle beneath a marked tree. Officer Melchior Díaz marched overland from Sonora and found the junction of the Colorado River and Gila River. Local people showed Díaz the hidden note, which explained that the ships had turned around because ocean worms had damaged their wooden hulls.

Winter Along the Rio Grande

Another officer, named Hernando de Alvarado, marched east and discovered the fertile valley of the Rio Grande in modern New Mexico. Coronado decided to move his entire army there to spend the cold winter of 1540–1541. They established their winter camp near modern-day Bernalillo and Albuquerque, New Mexico.

Life during that freezing winter was difficult for everyone. The Spanish army demanded warm clothing, blankets, and grain from the local pueblo residents. These unfair demands led to serious tension and broke out into the Tiguex War. The fighting ended with the destruction of several villages and caused deep suffering among the native people. During this time, the Spanish met an enslaved woman named Big Eyes, who later helped guide them as they journeyed further east.

Journey Across the Great Plains

The Search for Quivira

Jan Mostaert - Landscape with a Scene of the Conquest of America
An early painting showing the Spanish encounters in the Southwest.

While staying along the Rio Grande, the Spanish met an indigenous guide whom they nicknamed "The Turk". He told marvelous tales of a wealthy empire called Quivira located far to the northeast. He claimed that the rulers there drank from golden cups and owned massive treasure fleets. Coronado believed these colorful stories and gathered his army to find this wealthy kingdom.

In the spring of 1541, the expedition marched eastward onto the vast Great Plains. They traveled across the flat grasslands of the Llano Estacado, passing through parts of modern Eastern New Mexico and the Texas Panhandle. They traveled near the areas where the towns of Hereford and Canadian sit today. The land was so flat that the sky seemed to touch the grass in all directions. Coronado wrote that being on the open plains was like being surrounded by a sea of grass.

On these endless prairies, the explorers saw millions of grazing bison, commonly known as the American buffalo. Coronado was amazed by the sheer size of the herds. He wrote that there was not a single day when his men could not see thousands of buffalo grazing.

Meetings with Plains Peoples

While traveling across the plains, Coronado met groups of nomadic hunters called the Querechos. These people were ancestors of the modern Apache nation. They lived in portable tent homes called tipis and moved across the plains following the great buffalo herds. Coronado was surprised that the Querechos showed no fear of the Spanish horses or armor.

Later, the expedition descended into the rugged canyon country of the Caprock Escarpment. In places like Blanco Canyon in Crosby County, near modern Floydada in Floyd County, Coronado met another group called the Teyas. The Teyas were skilled buffalo hunters who also collected wild fruits, plums, beans, and grapes from green canyon floors. In 1993, modern archaeologists working in Blanco Canyon discovered ancient Spanish crossbow bolts and iron horseshoe nails, confirming that Coronado's camp had once stood there.

Arrival in Kansas

During the march, other native guides told Coronado that the Turk was misleading him. They stated that real villages lay further to the north. Coronado decided to send most of his tired soldiers back to their camp along the Rio Grande. He chose thirty handpicked horsemen and a few priests to continue the search northward into modern Kansas.

In the summer of 1541, Coronado's small company crossed the wide Arkansas River near present-day Dodge City, Kansas. They traveled northeast along the riverbanks until they reached the heart of Quivira. Instead of rich cities with towers of gold, they found traditional farming communities inhabited by ancestors of the Wichita and Pawnee.

The villages had round grass-thatched huts surrounded by healthy fields of corn, squash, and beans. The only piece of metal the Spanish found was a tiny copper pendant worn by a local village chief. The grand kingdom of gold was only a myth. Coronado sent scouts to nearby areas like Tabas and Harahey, near modern Salina, Abilene, Lyons, and Lindsborg along the Smoky Hill River and Little Arkansas River. Finding no treasures anywhere, Coronado sadly prepared to head back.

Return and Final Years

Coronado and his horsemen rode back to New Mexico in the autumn of 1541. During the winter, Coronado suffered a severe injury when he fell from his galloping horse. With his health failing and no gold discovered, the commanders decided to end their mission. In April 1542, the expedition packed up their equipment and began the long journey home to Mexico City.

The expedition was considered a financial failure because it did not bring back silver or gold. Coronado had spent much of his family fortune on supplies. He continued to serve as governor of Nueva Galicia for a short time until 1544. Government officials later investigated his management of the expedition and his treatment of native peoples. While his field officer was held responsible for misdeeds, Coronado was cleared by his colleagues in government.

Coronado lived out the rest of his life quietly with his family in Mexico City. He passed away from an illness on September 22, 1554, at the age of forty-four. He was buried inside the historic Church of Santo Domingo in the city.

Legacy and Honors

3c Coronado Expedition 400th anniversary single, 1940 issue
A United States postage stamp honoring the Coronado expedition.

Although Coronado never found the legendary golden cities, his journey was a major geographic achievement. His expedition mapped vast regions of the North American interior, proved that the continent was enormous, and recorded valuable details about Native American life.

Today, many landmarks across the American Southwest celebrate his historic expedition:

  • In 1939, the United States Congress passed the Coronado Exposition Commission Act of 1939 to commemorate the historic journey near the Mexico–United States border.
  • The Coronado National Memorial was created in 1952 near Sierra Vista, Arizona to preserve the history of his journey.
  • The surrounding Coronado National Forest covers large mountain areas in southern Arizona.
  • In northern Arizona, an impressive rock formation inside the Grand Canyon is named Coronado Butte.
  • A scenic overlook near Lindsborg, Kansas, where the expedition explored, is celebrated as Coronado Heights.
  • Several schools bear his name, including high schools in Lubbock, Texas, El Paso, Texas, Colorado Springs, Colorado, and Scottsdale, Arizona.
  • Major roadways carry his name, including Coronado Road in Phoenix, Arizona, and a section of Interstate 40 through Albuquerque.
  • A rare mineral discovered by geologists was named coronadite in his honor.

See Also

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