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Dalgarven Mill – Museum of Ayrshire Country Life and Costume facts for kids

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DalgarvenMillBuildings
The main Dalgarven Mill buildings

Dalgarven Mill is a special place near Kilwinning, Scotland. It's home to the Museum of Ayrshire Country Life and Costume. This old watermill has been fully fixed up and is now run by a group called the Dalgarven Mill Trust.

Most of the old village of Dalgarven was lost when a main road was built. But the mill buildings are still here! They are open for visitors to learn about local history. It's also a museum showing what country life was like in Ayrshire long ago. Not many old mills are left in Ayrshire. This one was saved because the last miller's family wanted to keep its history alive. Some of the smaller buildings are now an antique shop. Others are being fixed up for visitors to enjoy even more.

The Ferguson family, whose ancestors were the last millers, still help run the museum. They work with a group of volunteers called trustees. Dalgarven Mill is not part of the National Trust for Scotland or the National Museum of Scotland. But it is a top-rated visitor spot in Ayrshire!

History of Dalgarven Mill

DalgarvenMillWheel
The mill waterwheel after a recent renovation

There has been a mill at this spot, called Groatholm, since the 1300s. The monks from Kilwinning Abbey first set it up. The very first mill was a "waulk" or "fulling" mill. This type of mill made woollen cloth. They used to soak plant stems like flax in ponds here. This process, called retting, helped loosen fibres to make things like linen or paper.

The mill you see today was built in 1614 to grind corn. It was rebuilt in 1880 after a fire. The River Garnock's water powers a huge 6-metre wide waterwheel. This wheel turns big French millstones using cast iron gears.

You can see how flour was made in the old days during a mill tour. The wheel turns when possible. Its wooden parts and the water gate were replaced between 2006 and 2009.

The mill's water channel, called a lade, was very important. Building and keeping it working was a special skill.

The weir on the River Garnock is made of carefully placed boulders. It creates a pond that sends water to the wheel through the lade. The weir was built on a natural rock ridge across the river. The monks of Kilwinning Abbey chose this spot for the mill because of this ridge.

Many old mills had trees or buildings to shade the waterwheel. This stopped the wooden parts from drying out and warping in the summer sun. At Dalgarven, the wheel was originally inside high walls. These walls did the same job as trees.

Dalgarven Mill Waterwheel and members of the public at a Guided Tour
A trustee leading a guided tour, at the cup and ring marked stone.
Dalgarven Mill exhibition shed
A new storage shed and workshop

The Dalgarven wheel is a "low breastshot" wheel. This means the water hits the wheel about a quarter of the way up. It turns counter-clockwise. Each bucket has a "sacrificial board" on its outer edge. This board breaks off if something gets stuck under it. This is very important! If the wheel suddenly stopped, it would damage the gears and grinding stones. It's unusual that iron brackets support the wooden paddles on the wheel. You can see the huge wooden frame that holds the grindstones from inside the mill.

In the 1940s, the miller at Dalgarven used the wheel to make electricity. This power was stored in batteries. Today, the Mill Trustees are looking into using the wheel again to make electricity. This would help the mill be more eco-friendly.

DalgarvenMillPainting
A painting of Dalgarven Mill showing the main buildings, waterwheel and cottages

The mill building has a unique feature: an alcove. This was made to attract nesting owls. The owls would then eat mice and other pests that were attracted to stored grain.

The mill building has only a few windows. This might have been practical. But it also might have been to avoid paying "window tax". This tax was first used in England in 1696. It was based on how many windows a house had. Big houses often had windows blocked up to avoid paying more. This tax was stopped in 1851.

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A whinstone at Dalgarven Mill, used for crushing Whin or Gorse for use as fodder for cattle

Outside the old waulk mill, there's a large oval sandstone object. It has metal parts in the middle. This stone was used to crush gorse (also called whin) in a shallow trough. A horse would drag the stone back and forth. This made the spiky plant soft enough for animals to eat. But it was only used if other food was scarce.

You can learn more about the mill's history in the book A Miller's Tale. The Life and Times of Dalgarven Mill. It was written by Robert Ferguson, the son of the last miller.

In 1799, a traveler named Heron wrote that the miller at Dalgarven had built a wooden bridge in a Japanese style. He also had interesting gardens with patterns of low box hedges.

Old Laws and Mills

Millstone Anatomy
The basic anatomy of a millstone. Note that this is a runner stone. A bedstone would not have the "Spanish Cross" into which the supporting mill rind fits.

"Thirlage" was an old feudal law. It meant that the laird (lord) could force all farmers on his land to bring their grain to his mill to be ground. Farmers also had to help fix the mill. They had to keep the lade and weir in good shape. They even had to carry new millstones to the mill! The width of some of the first roads was set by how wide a millstone was. Two people had to walk on each side of it, holding a wooden axle.

The Thirlage Law was stopped in 1779. After that, many mills were no longer used. They couldn't compete, and it cost too much to run them without the old laws. This might explain why so many mills disappeared.

For example, Lambroch Mill on Lambroughton Loch served small farms. Now, only some stone rubble is left. The mill has completely vanished.

The Museum of Country Life

The mill's three-story grain store was turned into a museum between 1985 and 1987. It now holds a large collection of items from Ayrshire farming and homes. These items show how people lived before factories and big industries. You can see displays about ploughing, threshing, harvesting, and the village smithy.

An antique shop is in an old outbuilding. There's also a cafe for snacks and meals. The original mill building by the River Garnock is still being developed.

Exploring the Museum and Mill

The River Garnock

For hundreds of years, the water from the Garnock River has powered the mill. A weir and a mill lade (water channel) send the water to the mill's waterwheel.

Outside the Mill

Inside the Mill

The inside of the mill buildings has been fully fixed up. They were in very bad shape before!

Exhibition Areas

An upper floor of the mill has different areas. They show what Victorian homes looked like for both rich and working-class families.

Costume Collection

The mill has a huge collection of costumes and clothes from all kinds of people. The exhibition area on the ground floor shows items from this collection. The displays are changed often. The costumes are also used for school visits, open days, and other special events.

Country Life in Days Gone By

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A view of the working mill prior to WW2

The first and second floors of the mill show all parts of country life. You can see recreated rooms from Victorian times. These include a living room, kitchen, and bedroom. There are also displays of farm tools, lace, luggage, and dairy items. You can see a bee skep (an old beehive) and stand. There are also early vacuum cleaners, washing machines, and blacksmiths' tools. A cottar's (farm worker's) house has been recreated. It has box-beds and other old features.

On each floor, you can see the restored mill machinery. This includes the hoppers (where grain goes in), grindstones, and wheel gears. On the ground floor, there's an exhibit about how the mill was restored. It shows how much work it took to bring the mill back to life!

In the mill grounds, you'll find interesting things. These include a cast-iron milestone and old ploughs. There's also the stone used for crushing gorse.

Education

School groups can visit the mill as part of their studies. They get guided tours and special talks on many topics. These topics are covered by the museum's collections. The riverside walk offers chances to study river life, wildflowers, and local geography. The water wheel helps teach about sustainability.

Other Interesting Features

Cup and Ring Mark Stone

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The Dalgarven Mill cup and ring mark stone.

A type of ancient rock carving called a cup and ring mark stone was found at Dalgarven. It was noted by John Smith, a famous Ayrshire historian. Sadly, no one knows exactly where the original stone is now. But a copy has been made and is on display in the mill grounds. We don't know why these stones were carved. The original carvings would be from the Neolithic or Bronze Age, up to 6000 years old. This Dalgarven example is unusual because it has cups and connecting grooves, but no rings. Often, these stones have up to five rings around the central cup.

Fossils

You can sometimes find fossil-filled limestone rocks in the river. These rocks have fossilized tree fern roots and trunk prints. These plants are now extinct. They grew much taller than their modern relatives, which are only a few feet tall. Millions of years ago, these plants grew in a warm climate. They helped create much of Scotland's coal deposits.

Riverside Walk

Whin or Gorse
Gorse or Whin in full flower in Dalgarven Meadows.
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A Giant Hogweed flower in close-up. Do not touch!

Visitors should take time to walk along the beautiful River Garnock. In spring, the wild flower meadow is amazing. In summer, you can sit by the river and watch herons, swallows, and kingfishers. A Community Woodland has been planted, and you can explore it freely.

The gravel in the riverbed used to be an important source of money for the millers. They had the only right to take gravel from here. They sold it for farms and gardens.

The meadows have a lot of pignut (Conopodium majus). This plant is related to parsley. Children used to dig it up for a snack. If you dig it up, you find a small potato-like part. It tastes a bit nutty when eaten raw.

Some plants like Hemlock water dropwort grow in wet areas. It's best to leave them alone, as the name "hemlock" suggests. Large leaves of butterbur (Petasites hybridus) are also found here. Its name comes from a time before plastic wrap. People used its leaves to wrap butter for the market. Giant hogweed is also starting to appear. You should never touch this plant! Its sap can cause bad blisters and scars on your skin. The Ayrshire Rivers Trust helps control these invasive plants.

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The Pink Purslane or Stewarton Flower.
Butterbur
Butterbur in flower.

The Stewarton flower, or pink purslane (Claytonia sibirica), is common in wet areas. It has white or pink flowers here. But closer to Stewarton, it's almost always white. It seems the white type was first brought to Stewarton in Victorian times. The common pink type, brought later, spread to other areas. Dalgarven seems to be where the white flowers are most common. Dalgarven is also the only known place to find the pocket plum gall (Taphrina padi), which grows on bird cherry trees.

People still cut back the alder trees along the river. This is called Coppicing. Alders grow well in wet soil. They have special root bumps with bacteria that help the soil.

Many trees along the hedgerows near the mill were not just for looks. They were crops! Their wood was used for building and fences. The miller needed beech or hornbeam wood for the mill machinery, especially the gears.

It's interesting to know how much the Ayrshire landscape has changed. In the 1760s, it was said that "there was no such thing to be seen as trees or hedges in the parish; all was naked and open."

Scrophularia umbrosa
Water Betony or Green Figwort - the mill's rarest plant species.

Countryside Walks and Cycle Paths

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An entrance to Cleeve Cove Caves.

You can get leaflets at the mill that describe walks starting from there. The Sustrans cycle path from Irvine and Largs to Glasgow runs nearby. Cyclists often stop for a break and a look around. Then they head past the Blair Estate and along the old railway line. This path goes through the Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park to Johnstone, Glasgow, or Kilmacolm.

The Dusk Water joins the Garnock at Dalgarven. One of Ayrshire's most interesting natural sights is the Cleeves Cove cave system. It's in the Dusk Glen and is within walking distance from the mill.

Geocaching

Geocaching is a popular outdoor game. There's a hidden "cache" (container) on the nature walk. It has a log book for visitors to sign. You can also take something and leave something. You need a GPS device to play fully. You log onto the Geocaching website to find interesting places, usually in the countryside.

Blair House

Blair House is nearby. Until recently, it was home to the Borthwick family. They had a long tradition of letting the public visit their grounds. It was said to be the house with the longest continuous occupation by the same family in Scotland. The family sold it in 2012.

See Also

  • Nether Mill - Kilbirnie
  • Ballochmyle cup and ring marks
  • Barburgh Mill
  • Coldstream Mill - Beith.
  • Cunninghamhead Details of a series of mills on the Annick Water
  • Meikle Millbank Mill
  • Cup and ring mark
  • Museum of Scottish Country Life
  • Staddle stones
  • A Researcher's Guide to Local History terminology
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