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Ilam Province

استان ایلام  (Persian)
A beautiful landscape in Ilam Province
A beautiful landscape in Ilam Province
Where Ilam Province is located in Iran
Where Ilam Province is located in Iran
Country Iran
Region Region 4
Founded 1974
Capital Ilam
Counties 12
Area
 • Province 20,164.11 km2 (7,785.41 sq mi)
 • Urban
30.13 km2 (11.63 sq mi)
Area rank 22nd
  Latest measurement in 2019
Highest elevation
(Kan Seifi Peak)
2,775 m (9,104 ft)
Lowest elevation
36 m (118 ft)
Population
 (2016)
 • Province 580,158
 • Estimate 
(2024)
904,000
 • Rank 31st (last)
 • Density 28.77181/km2 (74.51865/sq mi)
 • Urban
395,263
 • Rural
184,444
Time zone UTC+03:30 (IRST)
Postal code
69311–69991
Area code(s) +98 84
ISO 3166 code IR-16
Vehicle registration Iran 98
Main language(s) Persian (official)
local languages:
Kurdish
Luri
Arabic
HDI (2017) 0.815
very high · 8th
Website Ilam Portal

Ilam Province (Persian: استان ایلام) is one of the 31 provinces of Iran. Its capital city is Ilam.

This province is located in the western part of Iran. It covers about 20,164 square kilometers. Ilam shares a 425-kilometer border with Iraq. It also borders the Iranian provinces of Kermanshah, Lorestan, and Khuzestan.

Etymology: The Meaning of Ilam

The name "Ilam" comes from "Elam". This was an ancient civilization that lived in southwestern Iran a very long time ago, from around 2700 BC to 539 BC.

History: A Journey Through Time

Elam Map-en
Elam civilization
Madaktu 05
The remnants of Seymareh city, also known as Madaktu.

Ancient Times

People have lived in the Ilam area for a very long time, since about 5000 BC. The name "Ilam" reminds us of the ancient Elam civilization. This civilization was powerful in southwest Iran for many centuries.

Around 639 BC, the Assyrian king Ashurbanipal invaded Elam. Even after this, the Elamite people continued to live in the area. Later, Ilam became part of the Median Empire and then the Achaemenid Empire. During these times, Ilam was an important region due to its location.

Medieval Eras

Buyids 970
The Buyids ruled over western Iran.

After the Arab conquests around 640 AD, the area was called the "Land of the Mountains" or "Jibal." Various Arab caliphates ruled the region for several centuries. Later, the Buyid dynasty took control in 945 CE.

Around 1155, Kurdish groups, known as Hazaraspids, began to rule parts of the Zagros Mountains. One group, the Little Lor, controlled areas including present-day Ilam. Another Kurdish group, the Hasanwayhids, also ruled parts of western Iran.

The Khorshidi and Vali Dynasties

Atabegên Lurê Biçûk
Little and Big Lorestan regions
1798 قلعه والی ایلام
Vali Castle in Ilam

The Little Lor rulers, also called the Khorshidi dynasty, governed the area for over 400 years. Their rule ended in 1597. After that, the Vali/Wali dynasty, also known as Feyli Vali, began to govern.

During the Qajar era (1789–1925), the Ilam region was known as Poshtkoh. This name meant "back of the mountain" because of its location in the western Zagros Mountains. The governors of Poshtkoh reported directly to the central government. The famous Vali Castle in Ilam was built in 1908 by Gholamreza Khan Feyli. Today, it is a national heritage site and a museum.

Modern Times

In 1925, the Pahlavi dynasty came to power. They changed the name "Hossein-Abad" to "Ilam" in 1929. Ilam became a county and later, in March 1974, it was officially made a province.

In the 1980s, Ilam was a border area during a conflict. This period caused significant damage to the province's buildings and economy. The people of Ilam worked hard to rebuild and recover in the years that followed.

Geography: Mountains, Rivers, and Plains

Topographic Map of Ilam Province
Topographic map of Ilam province showing mountains and rivers.

Ilam province is the 22nd largest province in Iran. It is located in the southwestern part of the country. The province has two main natural areas:

  • The northern and eastern parts are mountainous.
  • The southwest has low plains that stretch towards Iraq and Khuzestan.

The mountains in Ilam mostly run from northwest to southeast. They are separated by plains and hills where people grow crops. The most famous mountain is Kabir Kouh, which is 160 km long. The highest point in Ilam is Kan Seifi peak, standing at 2,775 meters above sea level.

Other important mountains include:

  • Manesht and Qolarang near Ilam
  • Sharah-Zoul and Bankoul in Eywan
  • Dinar Kouh in Abdanan
List of highest summits in Ilam province
Peak Elevation (m) Elevation (ft)
Kan Seifi 2775 9104
Manesht 2629 8625
Chaman Ghir 2578 8458
Qolarangh 2473 8114
Ghachan 2464 8084
Bankoul 2304 7559
Melinjeh 2193 7195
Shalam 2174 7133
Sameleh 2150 7054
کوه مانشت
Manesht mountain

The southern and southwestern plains are much lower, between 50 and 300 meters above sea level. Even with little rain, these areas are farmed thanks to rivers and irrigation systems.

Rivers and Lakes

Siah-Ghav Twin Lakes 01
Siah-Ghav Twin Lakes, near Abdanan

The Ghamasiab river flows into Ilam and becomes the Seymareh River. It then joins the Kashkan river to form the Karkheh River, one of Iran's longest rivers. Many smaller rivers in Ilam flow into the Seymareh or westward towards Iraq.

Ilam has a few natural springs, like the Siah-Ghav Twin Lakes. There are also four important dams that provide drinking water: Ilam, Seymareh, Eywan, and Doiraj dams.

Flora: Plants of Ilam

بنه-2
Persian turpentine tree
Oak Jungles in Ilam
Persian oak forest in Ilam province

About 31% of Ilam is covered with forests, mostly Persian oak trees. You can also find wild almond, hawthorn, and Persian turpentine trees. The Arghavan Canyon is famous for its beautiful pink Judas-trees that bloom in spring.

Fauna: Animals of Ilam

Pseudocerastes urarachnoides
Spider-tailed horned viper

Ilam is home to many animals, including 32 types of mammals and 183 types of birds. In the mountains, you might see wild goats, Asiatic mouflon, and even the endangered Persian leopard. Other animals include Caracals, Asian black bears, wolfs, and wild boars. Smaller animals like Caucasian squirrels and rabbits also live here.

Ilam province is the only place in the world where the unique spider-tailed horned viper can be found!

Nature Conservatories

Kabir Kouh
Kabir Kouh Protected Area, near Darreh Shahr

About 13% of Ilam province is protected to help preserve its nature. There are four main protected areas:

  • Kabir Kouh Protected Area near Darreh Shahr
  • Dinar Kouh near Abdanan
  • Manesht and Qolarangh near Ilam
  • Koulak near Mehran

Other special places include the "Arghavan Valley forest reserve," known for its pink Judas trees, and the "Razyaneh Canyon," a deep, narrow canyon. There's also an area near Dehloran with hot water springs and 'bat caves.'

Landslides

Seymareh Landslide 01
Seymareh Landslide in Darreh Shahr County
کبیرکوه
View from Pol-e Dokhtar to the landslide on Kabir Kouh.

Ilam Province is known for one of the largest landslides ever recorded. This huge event happened in the Kabir Kuh mountain range. Scientists believe an earthquake might have caused this massive slide, moving a vast amount of rock.

Climate: Weather in Ilam

Köppen Map of Ilam Province, Iran
Köppen climate types of Ilam province

Ilam's climate is very varied due to its mountains and plains. Air from the Mediterranean Sea and the Red Sea brings rain in autumn and winter. Hot air from Iraq and Saudi Arabia causes very hot summers.

Ilam has three main climate types:

  • Cold Climate: The northern and northeastern mountains have long, cold winters. Temperatures can drop to -15 to -20°C.
  • Dry Hot Climate: The western and southwestern plains have very hot, dry summers. Temperatures can go above 52°C.
  • Warm Climate: Other areas have hot summers and mild winters.
Climate averages for towns in Ilam province
Town July daily maximum January daily maximum Annual precipitation
Ilam 38.2 °C (100.8 °F) 10.5 °C (50.9 °F) 585.4 mm (23.05 in)
Mehran 45.6 °C (114.1 °F) 16.3 °C (61.3 °F) 230.4 mm (9.07 in)
Dehloran 48.1 °C (118.6 °F) 16.5 °C (61.7 °F) 280.4 mm (11.04 in)
Darreh Shahr 46.4 °C (115.5 °F) 15 °C (59 °F) 482.1 mm (18.98 in)
Eyvan 38.8 °C (101.8 °F) 11 °C (52 °F) 704.1 mm (27.72 in)
Sarableh 41.4 °C (106.5 °F) 11.2 °C (52.2 °F) 510.7 mm (20.11 in)
Abdanan 42.5 °C (108.5 °F) 12.9 °C (55.2 °F) 613.7 mm (24.16 in)
Lumar 45.2 °C (113.4 °F) 13.2 °C (55.8 °F) 460.3 mm (18.12 in)

Floods and Dust Storms

Ilam Flood Nov 2015
Flood in Ilam city in November 2015.
Majeen Flood Mar 31, 2019
Flood in Majeen, Darreh Shahr, March 2019.

Heavy rainstorms can sometimes cause floods in Ilam. This happens because of the steep mountains and certain soil types. Many towns are built near rivers, which increases the risk. In March and April 2019, Ilam experienced significant flooding, which damaged bridges like the Gavmishan bridge.

Ilam also sometimes experiences dust storms, especially in summer. These storms are more common now due to droughts and conflicts in nearby countries. Cities like Mehran and Dehloran are most affected.

Demographics: People of Ilam

Languages and Ethnic Groups

Ilam Province has a mix of languages because it's located where different language groups meet. The main language is Kurdish, with various dialects spoken. Luri is spoken in the southern parts of the province. You can also find some smaller communities where Arabic is spoken near the border with Khuzestan.

Ilam linguistic composition
language percent
Kurdish
  
80.66%
Luri
  
14.74%
Arabic
  
3.43%
Other
  
1.16%

The northern parts of Ilam are mostly home to Kurdish tribes like the Kalhuri and Feyli.

Population

Ilam Province Historical population
Year Pop. ±%
1956 110,067 —    
1966 148,307 +34.7%
1976 246,024 +65.9%
1986 382,091 +55.3%
1991 440,693 +15.3%
1996 487,886 +10.7%
2006 545,787 +11.9%
2011 557,599 +2.2%
2016 580,158 +4.0%
Est. 2020 602,000 +3.8%
Notes: As Ilam Census Area in 1956 and Ilam General Governorate in 1966. Source: Statistical Center of Iran

In 2016, the population of Ilam Province was 580,158 people. It is currently the least populated province in Iran. The capital city, Ilam, has about 194,030 residents.

Administrative Divisions

Ilam province is divided into 12 counties, which are like large districts. These counties are further divided into smaller areas.

Ilam Province
Counties 2006 2011 2016
Abdanan 45,830 46,977 47,851
Badreh 15,614
Chardavol 73,422 72,167 57,381
Chavar
Darreh Shahr 56,346 59,551 43,708
Dehloran 58,993 66,399 65,630
Eyvan 47,380 48,833 49,491
Holeylan
Ilam 193,222 213,579 235,144
Malekshahi 22,587 21,138
Mehran 55,271 27,506 29,797
Sirvan 14,404
Total 530,464 557,599 580,158

Cities

More than 68% of Ilam's population lives in cities. The capital, Ilam, is the largest city.

List of cities above 10k population
Rank Town Pop.
1 Ilam 194,030
2 Dehloran 32,941
3 Eyvan 31,299
4 Abdanan 23,946
5 Darrehshahr 21,900
6 Mehran 17,435
7 Sarableh 12,393
8 Arkavaz 11,977

Culture: Traditions and Art

Ilam's culture is a mix of different groups who have lived there over time, including Kurds, Lurs, Laks, and Arabs. This blend makes the local culture very rich and interesting.

Handicrafts

Iranian carpet process (18)
Kilim, a popular handicraft in Ilam

One of the most important handicrafts in Ilam is the Embossed Kilim. This is a special type of rug that combines simple weaving with carpet knots, creating a raised pattern. It became famous thanks to a weaver named Sahar Chalanghar. Today, thousands of people in Ilam make these beautiful kilims. Ilam is even known as the national capital of embossed kilim.

Cuisine

Tarkhineh
Tarkhineh, a traditional dish in Ilam

Ilam's food is a delicious mix of Kurdish and Luri cooking. Some traditional dishes include:

  • Bersaq
  • Kala-Konji
  • Tarkhineh
  • Chezenak-Reqo
  • Shola-Keena
  • Mountain Leek Stew
  • Kangar
  • Jeghar-Vaz
  • Saj bread
  • Qala Masoua
  • Qoyerma
  • Makash

Economy: How People Make a Living

Ilam is still developing compared to some other parts of Iran. Most people in rural areas work in farming and raising animals. In cities, people work in various services and skilled trades.

Agriculture

Ilam Agri Prods 2018
Production of crops and fruits in Ilam province as of 2018.     Crops: 700,732 tons (97.8%)     Fruits: 15,409 tons (2.2%)

Farming is the biggest part of Ilam's economy. Over 55,000 farmers work here, and about half of all families are involved in agriculture. Farmers grow crops like wheat, barley, corn, watermelon, and cucumber. They also grow fruits such as grapes, walnuts, pomegranates, and olives.

Industry

Top and bottom three province of Iran in term of number of industrial workshops (as of 2017).
Rank. Province Count
1. Tehran
6,806
2. Isfahan
3,892
3. R. Khorasan
2,164
29. S. Khorasan
139
30. Kohgiluyeh
65
31. Ilam
52

Ilam's industry is not as developed as in some other provinces. There are fewer large factories here. However, efforts are being made to encourage new businesses by building industrial towns and offering benefits like cheaper land. Some of the larger companies include Ilam Cement Company and Ilam Petrochemical Company.

Energy

Ilam is rich in natural resources, holding a lot of Iran's gas and oil reserves. It ranks 2nd in gas and 3rd in oil reserves in the country. This makes Ilam an important energy center for western Iran. There are several plants that process oil and gas in the province.

Mining

Ilam has many non-metallic minerals. You can find large amounts of gypsum, limestone, and bitumen. Ilam's gypsum is very pure, and the Dehloran Gypsum Factory produces high-quality products. The province is also 2nd in Iran for bitumen production and reserves. The "Dehloran Bitumen Spring" is a natural monument where liquid bitumen seeps from the ground.

Education: Learning in Ilam

Ilam has many schools for elementary and secondary education. For higher education, there are several universities and institutes. As of 2019, there were 1,778 schools and over 112,503 students in Ilam province. The literacy rate for men was 89.1% and for women was 80.6% in 2016.

Some of the higher education institutes include:

  • Ilam University of Medical Sciences
  • Ilam University
  • Islamic Azad University of Ilam
  • Payame Noor University of Ilam

Healthcare: Staying Healthy

MDs Dist, Ilam
Distribution of medical practitioners in Ilam province

Ilam has a good number of doctors and dentists compared to its population. However, most of the medical facilities and specialists are located in the capital city, Ilam.

Some of the main hospitals in the province are:

  • Imam Khomeini Hospital
  • Mostafa Khomeini Hospital
  • Ayatollah Taleghani Hospital

Transportation: Getting Around

Air Travel

The Ilam Airport is the only airport in the province. It has regular flights to cities like Tehran and Mashhad. In 2016, it also started international flights to Najaf.

Road Travel

Ilam province has a network of roads, including highways that connect it to other parts of Iran. Important roads include Road 17, which links Eslamabad-e Gharb to Mehran, and Road 64, connecting Mehran to Dehloran.

There are also several road tunnels in Ilam, helping cars travel through the mountains. The Ghalajeh tunnel is 2,583 meters long, and the Kabir Kouh Tunnel is under construction and will be 6,250 meters long.

Sports: Active in Ilam

Football

Ilam has a women's football team called Palayesh Gas Ilam. They compete in Iran's top professional league, the Kowsar Women Football League.

Powerlifting

Mojtaba Maleki is a famous powerlifter from Ilam. He has won gold medals in World Powerlifting Championships and many Asian gold medals. He is known for being one of only two people in the world to squat 500 kg raw with wraps.

Notable People

  • Darioush Rezaeinejad, nuclear energy scientist
  • Navid Mohammadzadeh, Iranian actor
  • Mojtaba Maleki, Iranian strongman
  • Zabihollah Pourshab, Iranian karateka
  • Ali Shadman, Iranian actor
  • Said Lotfi, Iranian footballer
  • Pouria Norouzian, Iranian sport shooter
  • Armina Sadeghian, Iranian sport shooter
  • Ali Hashemi, Iranian weightlifter
  • Jahangir Asgari, Iranian footballer
  • Behrouz Boochani, Iranian-Kurdish writer and filmmaker

Images for kids


See also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Provincia de Ilam para niños

  • Elam
  • Ethnic minorities in Iran
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