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Norton Priory
Low stone walls form squares and other shapes and are surrounded by grassed areas. In the background to the left is the rear of the undercroft, and trees are in the background.
Foundations of the monastic buildings and the back of the museum
Monastery information
Order Augustinian
Established 1115 (1115)
Disestablished 1536 (1536)
Dedicated to Saint Bertelin, Saint Mary
Diocese Diocese of Coventry and Lichfield
Controlled churches Runcorn, Great Budworth,
St Michael, Chester, Castle Donington, Ratcliffe-on-Soar, Kneesall, Burton upon Stather, Pirton (now Pyrton)
People
Founder(s) William fitz Nigel,
2nd Baron of Halton
Site
Location Norton, Runcorn,
Cheshire, England
Coordinates 53°20′32″N 2°40′48″W / 53.3423°N 2.6799°W / 53.3423; -2.6799
Visible remains Yes
Public access Yes
Designated: 24 July 1928
Reference #: 1015603
Listed Building – Grade I
Designated: 23 April 1970
Reference #: 1130433

Norton Priory is a fascinating historic site in Norton, Runcorn, Cheshire, England. It includes the remains of an abbey that existed from the 12th to the 16th centuries, and an 18th-century country house. Today, it's a popular museum where you can explore the past. The ruins are so important that they are protected as a scheduled ancient monument and are a Grade I listed building, meaning they are considered one of the most important monastic sites in Cheshire.

The priory started as an Augustinian religious community in the 1100s. It became a grander "abbey" in 1391. However, like many other monasteries, it was closed down in 1536 during the dissolution of the monasteries by King Henry VIII. Nine years later, Sir Richard Brooke bought the site and built a Tudor house using some of the abbey's old buildings. This Tudor house was later replaced by a new Georgian house in the 1700s. The Brooke family left the house in 1921, and much of it was taken down in 1928. In 1966, the site was given to a trust so the public could visit and learn about its history.

Archaeologists began digging at the site in 1971. This became one of the biggest and most important excavations of a monastic site in Europe using modern methods. They uncovered the foundations and lower walls of the monastery buildings and the abbey church. Some amazing discoveries were made, including a Norman doorway, beautiful carved arcades, and a large floor made of mosaic tiles. They also found the kiln where these tiles were made, a pit for casting a bell, and a huge medieval statue of Saint Christopher.

Norton Priory opened to the public in the 1970s. The 42-acre site is managed by a charity and features a museum, the excavated ruins, and lovely gardens and woodlands. In 1984, a separate walled garden was also opened. Norton Priory offers many activities, exhibitions, and educational programs. A larger, improved museum opened in August 2016, making it even better for visitors.

Exploring Norton Priory's Past

How the Priory Began

In 1115, a group of Augustinian canons (a type of priest) started a community in Runcorn. It was founded by William fitz Nigel, a powerful local lord. This spot was important because it was one of the only places to cross the River Mersey between Warrington and Birkenhead. Historians think the canons might have helped travelers and pilgrims crossing the river.

The priory was dedicated to Saint Bertelin and Saint Mary. Some believe the dedication to St Bertelin came from an older Saxon church already there. In 1134, William fitz William, the next Baron of Halton, moved the priory to Norton, about 3 miles (5 km) east of Runcorn. No one is completely sure why, but it might have been because the canons wanted a quieter place. Nothing remains of the first priory site in Runcorn.

Norton Priory plan
Plan of the priory in the 12th century (left) and 13th century (right). Light blue: early 12th century; dark blue: late 12th century; pink: early–mid 13th century. A: nave; B: choir; C: chancel; D: north transept; E: south transept; F: cellarer's range; G: cloister; H: sacristy; I: chapter house; J: refectory; K: dormitory; L: latrines; M: extended west front; N: extended chancel; O: north chapel; P: south chapel; Q: kitchens. Asterisk denotes buildings of similar function in a different later location

The new site in Norton was a damp, wooded area. The first job was to clear and drain the land. There were fresh springs nearby, which provided clean water for washing and other needs. This water was also used to create channels and moats, possibly for gardens. Sandstone for building was found nearby, and sand for mortar came from the Mersey River. Clay on the site was used for floor and roof tiles.

Archaeologists found pieces of oak wood, some from trees hundreds of years old. These were used to build the priory. The church and other monastic buildings were built in the Romanesque style, which was popular at the time.

The priory received many gifts from William fitz Nigel and other powerful families. These gifts included churches, houses, and even a share of the profits from the Runcorn ferry. The priory's prior (the head of the priory) also provided the chaplain for the local lords.

Growth and Changes

During the 12th century, the Barons of Halton were the main supporters of the priory. After 1200, their gifts decreased as they started supporting another abbey. The Dutton family, who had been supporters since the beginning, then became the main benefactors. They even had their own burial chapel at the priory.

The priory buildings grew bigger in the late 12th and early 13th centuries. The community of canons increased from about 12 to around 26, making it one of the largest Augustinian houses. The church was made longer, a new chapter house was built, and a large chapel was added. Around 1200, the west front of the church was expanded, a bell tower was built, and guest rooms were added. It's thought that the chapel at the east end might have been built to house the holy cross of Norton, a relic believed to have healing powers. In 1236, a fire destroyed the timber kitchen and damaged other buildings, but repairs were made quickly.

Becoming an Abbey

In the early 1300s, the priory faced money problems and arguments with the Dutton family. A big flood in 1331 also reduced its income. The Black Death in the mid-1300s also caused difficulties. Things improved when Richard Wyche became prior in 1366. He was very active and helped raise the priory's status to a "mitred abbey" in 1391. This meant the abbot (the new head of the abbey) could use special religious symbols like a mitre (a tall hat) and a staff, and give blessings. This was very rare for an Augustinian house.

By 1401, there were 16 canons at Norton, making it the largest Augustinian community in northwest England. The church was 287 feet (87 meters) long, making it the second longest Augustinian church in the region. Around this time, the abbey also got a "giant" statue of Saint Christopher.

After Richard Wyche died in 1400, the abbey's fortunes declined. Floods continued to reduce its income, and by 1429, the buildings were described as "ruined." The number of canons also dropped to nine by 1496 and seven by 1524. The buildings continued to fall apart.

Life at the Abbey

Even though many records are lost, excavations show how the abbey managed its lands. Farming was the main source of income, needed to feed the canons, guests, and pilgrims. The abbey also had to house travelers crossing the Mersey. About half of the land was used for growing crops. Grain was ground at local mills. Archaeologists found part of a stone handmill in the kitchen area. It's likely they also kept beehives for honey and raised animals like cattle, sheep, pigs, geese, and chickens. They used wood, charcoal, and turf for fuel.

The Abbey's End

The closing of the abbey in 1536 was complicated. There was a dispute between Sir Piers Dutton, the Sheriff of Cheshire, and Sir William Brereton. Dutton wanted to get some of the abbey's land after it closed. The abbey's wealth was reported as being much lower than it actually was, which made it eligible for closure.

In October 1536, commissioners arrived to close the abbey. About 300 local people opposed this, and the abbot even threw a feast for them. Dutton arrived with his men, and most of the rioters fled. Dutton arrested the abbot and four canons, sending them to prison. King Henry VIII demanded they be executed as traitors. However, due to delays and doubts about Dutton's reports, the abbot and canons were eventually released and given pensions. The abbey was made unusable, with valuable materials like lead from the roof taken for the king. The building was left empty for nine years.

From Abbey to Country House

Norton Priory Tudor House
Engraving of the Tudor house from the west by the Buck brothers, dated 1727

In 1545, Sir Richard Brooke bought the abbey and its lands. He built a Tudor house, called Norton Hall, using parts of the old abbot's lodgings and other monastic buildings. An old sketch shows that the gatehouse was still standing then, though most of the church was gone.

During the Civil War, the Brooke family supported Parliament. In 1643, Royalist forces attacked Norton Hall with cannons. Henry Brooke successfully defended the house with only one man wounded, while the Royalists lost 16 men. They burned two barns but had to retreat.

Norton Priory Georgian House
Georgian house before 1868

Between 1727 and 1757, the Tudor house was replaced by a new Georgian house. The new house was built over the old vaulted undercroft of the medieval abbey, which became the kitchens and storage areas. The main reception rooms were on the first floor. The Brooke family also built a walled garden and developed the woodlands around the house.

Sir Richard Brooke fought against the Bridgewater Canal being built through his estate in the mid-1700s. For a while, goods had to be unloaded and carried around his land. Eventually, he gave in, and the canal was completed in 1776.

Norton Priory wine bins
Wine bins in the undercroft

By 1853, more additions were made to the house. In 1868, the outside staircase was removed, and a new entrance was added to the ground floor. This new entrance featured a Norman doorway that had been moved from another part of the monastery. An exact copy of this doorway was built next to it, creating a double entrance. The entire undercroft was also restored in a Gothic style, with stained glass windows and a medieval-style fireplace.

In the 1800s, more transport projects affected the estate, including new canals and railways. The Brooke family left the house in 1921, and most of it was demolished in 1928. The undercroft was kept and covered with concrete. In 1966, the current Sir Richard Brooke gave Norton Priory to a trust for the public.

Uncovering the Past: Excavations and Museum

Archaeological Discoveries

In 1971, J. Patrick Greene began an excavation at Norton Priory. His initial findings led to a major 12-year project, becoming one of the largest monastic excavations in Europe using modern methods. They found the Norman doorway, Victorian additions, and medieval rooms. Local volunteers and even supervised prisoners helped with the digging. The Runcorn Development Corporation decided to create a museum, and the Norton Priory Museum Trust was set up in 1975.

Norton Priory Undercroft
Norman doorway in the undercroft

The excavations showed how the priory buildings were first built and then changed over time. They found ditches for water and drainage. Evidence of the first temporary wooden buildings, where the canons lived, was also found. Norton Priory is one of the few monastic sites to show proof of these early temporary quarters. The largest temporary building was probably the first church, and another was likely the gatehouse.

The first permanent building was the church, built with local red sandstone. It was shaped like a cross, with a nave, a choir, a tower, a chancel, and north and south transepts. The church was 148 feet (45 meters) long.

Other early buildings were built around a cloister (an enclosed courtyard) south of the church. These included the chapter house, sacristy, canons' dormitory, and reredorter (latrines). The upper floor of the west range had living areas for the prior and a place for visitors. The lower floor, called the undercroft, was used for storing food and fuel. A bell foundry (where bells are made) was found north of the church, likely used to cast a large bell.

The cloister was later enlarged, and a new, highly decorated doorway was built. The lower part of the west range, including the cellarer's undercroft and the "outer parlour" (the entrance to the priory), also dates from this time. The outer parlour was "sumptuously decorated" to show the priory's power. A new, larger reredorter was built, and a system of stone drains replaced the open ditches. The church was also extended at both its west and east ends.

Burials at the Priory

Norton Priory coffins
Coffins found at Norton Priory

Archaeologists found many burials within the church and monastic buildings, and in the surrounding grounds. These were likely Augustinian canons, important members of their staff, or significant members of the Dutton family. Most were buried in stone coffins or wooden coffins with stone lids. The burial location depended on the person's importance. Priors, abbots, and high-ranking canons were buried inside the church, with the most important near the east end. Other canons were buried in a graveyard outside the church. Lay people (non-clergy) were buried either in the church's nave or north aisle, or outside the church. The Dutton family had their own burial chapel in the north transept, where many burials were found.

They found 49 stone coffins, 30 coffin lids, and five headstones. Twelve of the lids had detailed carvings of flowers, foliage, or symbols like a cross, a dragon, or a female figure. Some had shields and swords, and two had inscriptions in Norman-French. Only three small stone coffins for children were found. The most important coffins were tapered towards the feet and had an internal "pillow" for the head.

Norton Priory coffin lids
Carved coffin lids

A total of 144 graves were excavated, containing 130 skeletons in good condition. Most of the skeletons were male, which is expected at a monastic site. Most males lived into middle or old age. The average height for adult males was about 5 feet 8 inches (1.73 meters), and for adult females, it was about 5 feet 2 inches (1.57 meters).

The bones showed signs of various diseases and old age. Some skeletons had Paget's disease of bone, a bone condition. One skeleton showed signs of leprosy. There were also signs of spina bifida occulta and other spinal problems. Evidence of broken bones was found in ten skeletons. One skull had a large hole, possibly from trepanning (a type of ancient surgery).

Examining the jaws and teeth showed that people had very worn teeth but much less tooth decay or gum disease than today. This suggests they had few dental problems, and tooth loss was mainly due to wear, not decay.

Artefacts from the Buildings

Norton Priory tiles
Montage of mosaic tiles in the museum

Many tiles and tile fragments were found, which once covered the floors of the church and other buildings. The oldest tiles are from the early 1300s. The total area of tiles found was about 80 square meters (860 sq ft), making it the largest discovery of its kind in a modern excavation. Norton Priory has the biggest and most varied collection of medieval tiles in the North West of England.

The tiles were of various shapes, forming a mosaic floor in the church's choir and transepts. They were glazed and colored black, green, and yellow. Many were decorated by pressing a wooden stamp into the wet clay before firing. Designs included lion masks, rosettes, and trefoils. Some fragments showed trees, foliage, birds, and inscriptions. In the Dutton family's burial chapel, tiles depicted mail (armor) and heraldic designs. A kiln where most of the tiles were fired was also discovered.

Norton Priory capital
Capital and spandrel from reconstructed arcade in the museum

The excavations also found carved stones from the 12th to 16th centuries. Early stones were in Romanesque style, including two voussoirs (wedge-shaped stones for arches) decorated with "beakheads" (grotesque animal heads). Other stones from the 12th century were in Gothic style, like a capital decorated with leaves. Many 13th-century stones were from the cloister arcade and showed humans and animals. The best preserved are heads of canons, a woman, a seated figure holding a book, and a creature like a serpent or an otter. Over 1,500 fragments of painted medieval glass were found, mostly in grisaille (monochrome) style.

Everyday Objects

About 500 pottery fragments from the medieval period were found, mostly jars, jugs, or pipkins from the kitchen area. Most were made locally, but some came from France. Much more pottery was found from later periods, mostly from England. Over 4,000 glass fragments were found, but only 16 were from before the abbey closed. Nearly 1,170 fragments of clay tobacco pipes were found, dating from the late 1500s to the early 1900s.

Six medieval coins were recovered, including a silver penny from the early 1200s. Later coins included a silver threepence from Queen Elizabeth I's reign. Other finds included silver spoons, copper alloy items like brooches, buckles, and buttons, and iron items like keys and horseshoes.

Nearly 2,000 lead fragments were found, including a papal bulla (a lead seal from the Pope) from the late 1100s. Fifteen lead discs were found, some with crosses, but their purpose is still a mystery. Other lead items were from the buildings, like parts of leaded windows and water pipes. Leather fragments were mostly from shoes, including an almost complete child's shoe from the late 1500s or 1600s. A small gemstone, a polished sardonyx, was also found.

Norton Priory Today

Norton Priory is considered a very important monastic site, perhaps the most extensively excavated in Britain, or even Western Europe. It's open to the public and run by the Norton Priory Museum Trust, a charity founded in 1975. The Trust cares for the many artefacts found during excavations and keeps detailed records.

The Museum

The museum tells the story of the site and displays many of the artefacts. You can see carved coffin lids, medieval mosaic tiles, pottery, writing tools, and household items like buttons and combs. Two medieval skeletons are on display, including one showing signs of Paget's disease of bone.

Inside the museum, there's a reconstruction of the cloister arcade as it looked after the 1236 fire. It features carved arches supported by columns with decorated capitals. Above the capitals are sculptures of human and animal heads, including canons with hoods, other men and women, and mythical creatures.

The museum also houses the medieval sandstone statue of Saint Christopher. This statue is very important because Saint Christopher was linked to the abbey due to its closeness to the River Mersey and the dangers of crossing it. The statue shows the saint walking through fish-filled water with the Christ-child on his shoulder. It's from about 1390, stands 3.37 meters (11 feet) tall, and was once brightly painted. The museum also has a 3D model showing how the statue might have looked originally.

Archaeological Remains

Norton Priory arcade
North arcade in the former outer parlour

The archaeological remains are a Grade I listed building and a scheduled ancient monument, making them the most important monastic ruins in Cheshire. They include the undercroft and the foundations of the church and monastic buildings uncovered during the excavations.

The undercroft is a single-story building with seven pairs of bays. You enter through a portico added to the country house in 1886, through two arched Norman doorways. The doorway on the right is original from the late 12th century, and the other is a replica from 1886. The original doorway is considered "the finest decorated Norman doorway in Cheshire" and is in excellent condition because it was always protected from the weather.

The undercroft has a tiled floor and a medieval-style fireplace. Its roof has ribbed vaults. It also contains brick wine bins added in the 1780s and a reconstructed bell mould from the original fragments found.

At the north end of the undercroft is the "outer parlour" passage. It has stone benches and beautifully carved blind arcades above them. These arcades have round-headed arches with capitals, columns, and bases. The carvings on the capitals and mouldings include human heads, stiff-leaf foliage, and animals.

The Grounds

Norton Priory Loggia
Garden loggia in the grounds

The 38 acres (15 hectares) of grounds around the house have been restored to show their 18th-century pathways, a stream-glade, and a 19th-century rock garden. The excavated foundations show the layout of the former church and monastic buildings.

In the grounds, there's a Grade II listed garden loggia (an open-sided gallery or room), possibly designed by James Wyatt. It has Doric columns and a cornice with a fluted frieze. There are also several modern sculptures and a sculpture trail. In the 1970s, fragments of the original bell mould were used to create a replica bell, which now stands in the grounds.

A herb garden was created as part of a BBC program. It aims to recreate a medieval herb garden, based on designs from other monastic sites. The plants grown are those believed to have been used to treat diseases found in the excavated skeletons. The gardens also include woodland areas, a summer house, a stream glade, a wild-flower meadow, and an orchard.

Walled Gardens

Ice House
Ice House

The 3.5-acre (1 hectare) walled garden was restored in the 1980s. It has an orchard, fruit and vegetable gardens, ornamental borders, and a rose walk. It also holds the national collection of tree quince (Cydonia oblonga), with 20 different types. Near the walled garden is a Grade II listed ice house, likely from the 18th century. It's made of brick covered with an earth mound, with a tunnel leading to a circular domed chamber.

What You Can Do Today

Norton Priory is a popular place to visit. It hosts many events throughout the year, like guided tours, family fun days, and concerts. Its educational programs are for all ages, including workshops and courses for children. There's also an outreach program for community groups. The museum has won awards for its work in tourism, education, and gardening. In August 2016, the newly rebuilt and expanded museum opened, costing £4.5 million, with much of the funding from the Heritage Lottery Fund.

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