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Watchung Reservation
Watchung Reservation in the Fall 2013-11-05 01.jpg
Fall foliage along Watchung Reservation Sierra Trail
Watchung Reservation is located in New Jersey
Watchung Reservation
Watchung Reservation
Location in New Jersey
Location Union County, New Jersey
Nearest city Summit and Mountainside
Area 1,945 acres (7.87 km2)
Elevation 292 ft (89 m)
Governing body Union County Parks Department

The Watchung Reservation is the biggest nature reserve in Union County, New Jersey. It sits on a ridge in central New Jersey. This special area mainly covers the valley of Blue Brook. It's nestled between the First and Second Watchung Mountains. A dam on the creek creates a beautiful spot called Lake Surprise.

The reservation is huge, covering about 1,945 acres (7.8 square kilometers). It touches the towns of Summit, Mountainside, Berkeley Heights, Scotch Plains, and Springfield.

Discovering Watchung's Ancient Rocks and Fossils

The Blue Brook has carved a valley through the Reservation. This valley is between the 1st and 2nd Watchung Mountains. It shows off older red rocks from the early Jurassic period. These rocks are part of the Feltville Formation.

The Feltville Formation is named after the Deserted Village of Feltville. This village is inside the Reservation. You can see red sandstone and shale rocks along the stream. They are also visible along an old, unused mill race.

On the south side of the stream, you can see the Orange Mountain Basalt. This is a type of volcanic rock. The best places to see these red rocks are along the old mill race. You can also find them along the stream banks.

In the 1970s, a scientist named Paul E. Olsen found ancient dinosaur fossils here. You can explore the geology of the Reservation yourself. Just follow the Ruth Canstein Yablonsky Self-Guided Geology Trail.

A Journey Through Watchung's Past

The purple-marked Watchung Reservation History Trail is six miles long. It takes you through many important historical spots. A person named Rob Gruytch from Roselle Park created this trail.

Who Lived Here First? The Lenape People

The first people to live in the Watchung Mountains were the Lenape. They called these mountains Wach Unks, which means 'high hills'. We know the Lenape lived here because many old campsites have been found. These sites are mostly along the rivers and in small caves.

The Lenape likely loved the Watchungs for their rich natural resources. There was plenty of fresh water, many different forests, and lots of fish and animals. They might have even used crushed copper for tools and decorations. An old path called the Mo-No-Pe-Nonck trail used to go through the Reservation.

Early European Settlers and a Copper Mine

There's an old, unused copper mine in the Reservation. Some think people started looking for copper here as early as the 1600s. Around 1736, a settler named Peter Willcocks built a sawmill. He cleared many acres of forest near the Blue Brook. This wood was needed by farmers in the area.

The Mystery of the Deserted Village

A whole village called Feltville once stood in the woods. In 1845, David Felt built a printing factory by the brook. He then built a whole town on a hill above the brook. This town supported his factory. By 1850, about 175 people lived in Feltville.

After Felt retired in 1860, other businesses tried to make it work. But they failed, and the town became empty for a short time. In 1882, Warren Ackerman bought the land. He turned it into a summer resort called Glenside Park. Visitors could enjoy golf, boating, and horseback riding.

But mountain resorts became less popular as cars made it easier to go to the Jersey Shore. So, Glenside Park closed in 1916.

The Murals of Roberto de la Selva

After Glenside Park closed in 1916, the Deserted Village began to fall apart. Edward J. Grassmann, a local engineer, bought some buildings. He wanted to create a club. Later, he sold these properties to the Union County Parks Commission.

Grassmann loved the Southwest and Latin America. He decorated two buildings in the Deserted Village to show this. He called one the "Mexican Cottage" and the other the "Indian Cottage."

It was Grassmann who apparently persuaded celebrated Nicaraguan/Mexican artist Roberto de la Selva to paint themed murals throughout the first floor interior of the Mexican Cottage. In the late 1920s, during his first trip to the United States, de la Selva spent months in rural Union County painting the murals, which depict native Mexicans at work, play and worship, including statues of both ancient gods and the Virgin Mary. As the only murals [that] de la Selva, who was primarily a sculptor, is known to have painted, these murals are significant to both the history of Feltville and the international art world.

Years later, these murals were covered with wallpaper. They stayed hidden for decades. In the 1970s, they were finally uncovered. The murals in the Deserted Village are very important. Preservation New Jersey named their location one of the 10 Most Endangered Historic Sites in New Jersey.

How the Reservation Was Formed

The Union County Park System started in 1921. They bought land to create the Rahway River Parkway. Soon after, the Watchung Reservation was made part of this park system. In 1927, a newspaper called The Westfield Leader wrote about new horse trails being built in the park.

The Enchanted Forest and Other Stories

Some people tell stories of magic and mystery about the "Enchanted Forest" here. This forest is a pine tree farm. It has 16,000 trees planted in straight rows. The Civilian Conservation Corps planted them in the 1930s.

The forest has white spruce, red pine, and Norway spruce trees. These trees are not native to the area. Native trees are slowly replacing them as the pines die. Pine beetles have caused a lot of damage to the trees recently.

There are also many tales of ghosts and magic in the Reservation. Some stories even mention black magic. One writer said, "Throughout the 1970s and up into the 2000s, there were reports of 'devil worship' in [Watchung Reservation]. There are police reports and newspaper accounts to back that up. So it was all going on in this hot spot of weird, paranormal activity." Some people believe 13 witches are buried under the road near the Reservation.

Fun Activities at Watchung Reservation

The Watchung Reservation is managed to protect its natural beauty. While much of it is forest, there are also areas for fun activities.

The most popular things to do here are hiking and horseback riding. There are many trails for both.

You can also go fishing, kayaking, and boating. These activities are allowed on Lake Surprise, Moxon Pond, and Seeley's Pond.

Biking on the paved road through the Reservation is popular. However, riding mountain bikes off-road is not allowed.

Climbers enjoy the bouldering spots on the cliffs. These are along the brook and Diamond Hill Road. But climbing is technically not allowed by the county.

Playtime at The Loop

In the middle of the Reservation is "The Loop" area. This is a big park with picnic tables. It also has a play area called "The Loop Playground."

Playground in Watchung park in Union County NJ
The Loop Playground entrance
Watchung park in Union County NJ playfield
Fields near The Loop at Watchung Reservation

Trailside Nature & Science Center

Trailside Nature & Science Center exterior view
Trailside Nature & Science Center, exterior view

The Trailside Nature & Science Center was built in 1941. It's located at the southern edge of the Reservation. This is the oldest nature center in New Jersey.

Trailside Nature & Science Center Watchung NJ interior view
Trailside Nature & Science Center Watchung Reservation, interior view

Beautiful Demonstration Gardens

The Rutgers Master Gardeners of Union County (RMGUC) are volunteers. They help with gardening and caring for the land. They also offer therapy using plants.

Their main office is in Westfield. Their Demonstration Gardens are next to the Trailside Museum. These gardens have different themes. There are flower-cutting gardens, a Berry Patch, and herb gardens. There's even a Harry Potter Garden! They also have a Community Sharing Garden. Here, they grow vegetables to give to others.

Watchung Stables for Horse Lovers

The county-owned Watchung Stables are at the eastern end of the park. This open area was created in the late 1950s. The U.S. Army built a Cold War Nike missile base here. It was used from 1957 to 1963 to protect the skies over New York City. Today, the site is used for the stables. The preserve has 26 miles of trails for horses.

USGS Watchung Reservation map
A U.S. Geological Survey map of the reservation

Exploring Hiking Trails

Some people have said the trails in the Reservation are not in good shape. The topsoil has worn away, leaving rocks. Also, the trails are sometimes hard to follow.

In October 2017, the county released a new map for hikers. This map helps people find their way. It also lets them report any problems with the trails.

Watchung's Amazing Ecosystem

Watchung Reservation is a balanced ecosystem. It mostly has beech-maple-pine forests.

Native Plants and Animals

Here are some common plants that naturally grow here:

You can also find these common animals:

Plants and Animals That Don't Belong

Because the Reservation is in a busy area, some plants and animals that are not native have moved in. These are called invasive species.

Common invasive plants include:

Common invasive animals include:

Lost Species of Watchung Reservation

Iowaherps-virginia valeriae
The smooth earth snake

Some animals used to live in the Reservation but are no longer found here. These include:

Glyptemys muhlenbergiiHolbrookV1P04A
The bog turtle

In 1981, a report mentioned that the bog turtle was an endangered species in New Jersey. There were sightings of these turtles near Lake Surprise. However, later research in 1989 suggested that the bog turtle was gone from the Reservation. This was due to changes in their habitat.

The Rare Blue Spotted Salamander

The Army Corps of Engineers reported in 1981 about the Blue Spotted Salamander. This salamander is an endangered species in New Jersey. It was seen in the Watchung Reservation. There was some doubt if it still lived there. But some sightings were reported in 1979.

Unique Springs and Salamander Homes

In 1981, the Army Corps of Engineers wrote about special natural springs. These springs are in the Reservation. They provide a home for six types of salamanders.

Scattered along the northwest slopes above Blue Brook in the Watchung Reservation, from the "Glen" to Seeley's Pond, are numerous springs that are of apparent great antiquity.

The springs in the Reservation are the only series of intact and relatively undisturbed springs remaining in the area, others having been destroyed, disturbed or altered in some way by human activities.

Most springs will have one to three species of salamanders (Dusky, Two-lined, Red) that carry out their entire life cycles in the vicinity of the spring. The addition of any others indicates very long periods of stability. The Four-toed salamander is a rare relictual species, the presence of which makes these springs unique. The Long-tailed salamander is an even greater indicator of long term stability since it utilizes the underground portions of the springs as well as the surface portions. It also adds uniqueness to these springs since the Reservation is the only place outside the Kittatinny Ridge and Valley of Sussex County where populations are known to occur at present.

No other system of springs in New Jersey appears to contain all five of the salamander species found in the Reservation.

There have also been reports of sightings of the Blue-spotted salamander in the springs of Watchung Reservation.

Protecting Watchung Reservation

The Watchung Reservation has faced challenges. Sometimes, parts of its land have been used for other purposes.

Land Use Changes by Government

Despite strong local protests, the government has taken land from the Reservation twice. The first time was in the late 1950s. The U.S. Army built a Nike missile base there. It operated from 1957 to 1963. Today, this site is used for Watchung Stables.

A more lasting change happened in the 1980s. After many years of legal battles, the New Jersey Department of Transportation got approval. They built I-78 through the northern edge of the Reservation. Special wildlife crossings were built. These help animals move safely between the two parts of the Reservation.

See also

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