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Herzegovina

Hercegovina
Херцеговина
Historical region in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Approximate region of Herzegovina
Approximate region of Herzegovina
Regions East Herzegovina, Herzegovina-Neretva, West Herzegovina
Largest city Mostar
Area
 • Total 12,188 km2 (4,706 sq mi)
 • Land 12,000 km2 (5,000 sq mi)
Demonym(s) Herzegovinian
Time zone UTC+1 (CET)
 • Summer (DST) UTC+2 (CEST)

Herzegovina is a southern region in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It's smaller than the northern region, which is called Bosnia. Herzegovina has never had clear borders for its geography, culture, or history. It has also never been a separate administrative area within Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Bosnia is the larger region and lies to the north of Herzegovina. To the southwest, you'll find Dalmatia in Croatia. To the southeast is Old Herzegovina in Montenegro. Herzegovina covers about 12,000 square kilometers, which is about 23–24% of the whole country. The biggest city in Herzegovina is Mostar, located right in the middle of the region. Other important towns include Trebinje, Široki Brijeg, Ljubuški, Čapljina, Konjic, and Posušje.

What's in a Name? The Meaning of Herzegovina

The name Herzegovina first appeared officially in a letter from the Ottomans in 1454. They created an administrative area called a sanjak (like a province) with this name in 1470. Its first capital was Foča.

The Ottomans often named new places after their previous rulers. In this case, they used the title of Stjepan Vukčić Kosača. He called himself herceg (a duke) in 1448. A year later, he changed his title to Herceg of St. Sava. This was after Saint Sava, a Serb saint buried in his territory. People believed Saint Sava could perform miracles.

The title herceg became almost part of Stjepan's name. People often called him Herceg-Stjepan in his later years. So, the Ottomans named the land he ruled Hercegovina. This means 'duke's land' or 'herceg's land'.

The word herceg comes from the German word herzog, which means 'duke'. The first Kosača duke to use this title was Herceg-Stjepan in 1449–50. Ottoman forces finally took over the lands of Stjepan Vukčić's family in December 1481.

The name Herzegovina is a lasting part of Herceg Stjepan's story. It's special because one person's noble title became the name of an entire region. This area was previously known as Humska zemlja or Hum.

However, the Ottomans' custom of naming new lands after their former lords was very important. It was enough for them to conquer Stjepan's land to start calling it Herzegovina. Also, Herceg Stjepan didn't create this area as a feudal part of the Bosnian state. That was done by Vlatko Vuković, who received it from King Tvrtko I. Later, Sandalj Hranić expanded it and made the Kosača family very powerful.

When Austria-Hungary ruled the region, it was known in German as Herzgau. This name has a similar meaning to the Slavic name.

A Look Back: The History of Herzegovina

Stari Grad Herceg Novi
Town of Novi, founded by King Tvrtko I, today Herceg Novi, was a winter home for the Kosača family.

Early Medieval Times

Slavs settled in the Balkans in the 7th century. The area we now call Herzegovina was split into different parts. These included Croatia, Zachlumia, and Travunia.

The region was first mentioned as Zahumlje by the Byzantine Emperor Constantine VII. He wrote that Serbs lived there. In the 1100s, Hum was controlled by the Nemanjić dynasty. Hungary also claimed Hum as part of its claim on Bosnia. Wars were fought between Hungary and the Nemanjić family for control.

By the early 13th century, Raška controlled most of Hum. Saint Sava created a Serbian bishopric in Ston in 1220. In the 1220s, Peter was called the Prince of Hum. He was also chosen as Prince of Split. The Catholic Church removed him because he was Orthodox. But the people of Split kept him as their prince. After he died, his family continued to rule parts of Hum for decades.

Later, Serbia regained control of Hum. After Stefan Milutin died in 1321, different Serb nobles took sides. In Hum, the Branivojević family became the strongest. They ruled from Ston and claimed lands from the Cetina River to Kotor. This included Pelješac.

The Bosnian Ban, Stjepan Kotoromanić, took over Hum in 1326. He did this with the help of Hum nobles. Serbia refused to support the Branivojević family. As part of the war for Hum, Dubrovnik wanted to take over Pelješac and Ston. These areas were part of Hum and held by the Branivojević family. Serbia refused to give them up, which caused conflict between Dubrovnik and Serbia. In 1333, the new king of Serbia, Stefan Dušan, sold Pelješac and Ston to Dubrovnik for money and a yearly payment.

Under Bosnia, Kotoromanić's allies, the Draživojević/Sankovic family from Nevesinje, became the most important family in Hum. Serbian rulers kept control of eastern Herzegovina. The Hum nobles mostly stayed loyal to Kotoromanić. They also continued to manage their local areas. Stjepan took direct control of the valuable customs house at Drijeva (Metković). Most people in Hum were Orthodox Christians. In other parts of Bosnia, the Bosnian Church was more common. After the Franciscans arrived in the 1340s, Catholicism also began to spread.

Parts of the region were later ruled by different medieval leaders. They were vassals (like loyal helpers) to Medieval Serbia in the east. To the west, they were connected to the Kingdom of Croatia.

During the 13th and early 14th centuries, Bosnian leaders called bans Stjepan I Kotromanić and Stjepan II Kotromanić added these regions to the Bosnian state. King Tvrtko I Kotromanić expanded the territories even further. This went beyond what is now modern Herzegovina.

Hum under the Kosača Family

During this time, parts of Herzegovina, then called Humska zemlja or Hum, were given by King Tvrtko I to the Kosača family. This family was not very important at the time. Its Vuković branch, led by Vlatko Vuković, received the land as a reward. He was the supreme commander of the Bosnian army.

Another strong Bosnian noble family, Pavlović, also held some territories in Hum. Their leader was Pavle Radinović, and their main area was near Rogatica.

However, when the Kosača family received Hum, the Sanković family was the most powerful in the region. They helped Ban Stjepan II capture Hum for Bosnia in 1326. They sent their branch, the Draživojević's, to remove the Branivojević family, who were loyal to Serbia.

The Sanković family was very active in Hum in the 14th and early 15th centuries. Their main home was in Glavatičevo. Their family burial site with stećci (medieval tombstones) is still there today. It is protected as a National monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Important members included Sanko Miltenović, who died in battle in 1370. His oldest son was Radič Sanković.

The Ottoman threat was growing in the east. It was threatening Bosnia and its southeastern regions in Hum. On August 27, 1388, Radić fought in the Battle of Bileća. The Bosnian army, led by Grand Duke Vlatko, defeated an Ottoman raiding party. Bosnian heavy cavalry helped win the battle. The Ottoman commander, Lala Şahin Pasha, barely escaped.

In 1391–1392, Radič and his brother Beljak tried to sell their lands in Konavle to the Republic of Ragusa. But the king and nobles stopped the sale. Grand Duke Vlatko Vuković and Knez Pavle Radinović were sent against Radič. They captured Radič and took Konavli, dividing it between themselves. Ragusa protested, but it didn't help.

After Vlatko Vuković died, his nephew, Sandalj Hranić, became the Grand Duke of Bosnia. He continued the fight against Radič. Radič regained his freedom in 1398 and tried to get his lands back. He became an important ally of King Stjepan Ostoja.

Radič fought in the Bosnian-Dubrovnik War in 1403-1404. He led attacks on Dubrovnik for King Stjepan Ostoja. Sandalj captured Radič, took all his land, and blinded him. Radič died in prison in 1404, which was the end of the Sanković family.

When Sandalj died, Stjepan Vukčić, his nephew, inherited control over Hum. He was the last Bosnian nobleman to effectively rule the province before the Ottoman conquest. He called himself Duke of Hum and Primorje, Bosnian Grand Duke, Knyaz of Drina. Later, he added Herzog of Saint Sava, Lord of Hum and Bosnian Grand Duke, Knyaz of Drina and the rest. After the Ottomans conquered the Bosnian Kingdom, Hum became known as Hercegovina, meaning "Herzog's land".

Zastava velikog vojvodstva - hercestva Kosaca
Kosača family symbols during Stjepan Vukčić's rule.

The name Herzegovina is the most important part of Stjepan Vukčić Kosača's legacy. It's unique because one person's noble title became the name of a whole region. The Ottoman custom of naming new lands after their former rulers was very important. Stjepan did not create this province as a feudal part of the Bosnian state. That was done by Vlatko Vuković, who received it from King Tvrtko I. Sandalj Hranić expanded it and made the Kosača family very powerful.

In 1451, Stjepan attacked the city of Dubrovnik. He had been a nobleman of the Republic of Ragusa. So, the government of Ragusa called him a traitor. They offered a reward to anyone who would kill him. This included money, a palace, and a yearly income. The threat worked, and Stjepan eventually stopped the attack.

Stjepan Vukčić died in 1466. His son, Vlatko Hercegović, became the next herceg. He tried to keep as much land as he could. In 1471, the Ottomans separated Hum from the Bosnian Sanjak. They created a new, separate Sanjak of Herzegovina with its capital in Foča.

In November 1481, Ajaz-Bey attacked Vlatko's capital, Novi. By December 1481, Vlatko stopped fighting. He agreed to move with his family to Istanbul. All of Herzegovina was then reorganized into the Sanjak of Herzegovina. This meant the last independent part of the medieval Bosnian state was gone.

Ottoman Rule (1482-1878)

Western Herzegovina 1760 flag
Flag of the Herzegovina Eyalet (1833–1851).
Hercegovački begunci, Uroš Predić
Refugees from the Herzegovina Uprising by Uroš Predić.

In 1482, Ottoman forces took over the lands of Stefan Vukčić's family. The Ottomans were the first to officially use the name Herzegovina for the region.

Herzegovina was organized as a sanjak (a province) within the Bosnia Eyalet (a larger Ottoman province). According to a Turkish census from 1477, some villages were owned by "Vlachs," and others were "Serb settlements," mostly empty. Ottoman records show that by the end of the 15th century, there were at least 35,000 Vlachs in Herzegovina.

During the Long War (1591–1606), Serbs in Herzegovina rebelled in 1596–97. But they were quickly defeated after a battle at Gacko.

The Candian War (1645–1669) caused a lot of damage. The Republic of Venice and the Ottoman Empire fought for control over Dalmatia and coastal Herzegovina.

After the Treaty of Karlowitz in 1699, the Ottomans gained access to the Adriatic Sea. This was through the Neum-Klek coastal area. The Republic of Dubrovnik gave this land to the Ottomans to stay away from the Venetian Republic's influence. The Ottomans benefited by getting salt from the region.

Because of the Bosnian Uprising (1831–32), the larger province was split. This created the separate Herzegovina Eyalet. It was ruled by a semi-independent leader named Ali-paša Rizvanbegović. After he died, the provinces of Bosnia and Herzegovina were joined again.

After 1853, the new combined area was often called Bosnia and Herzegovina. Serbs in the region rebelled against the Ottomans from 1852–62. They were helped by the Montenegrins, who wanted to free the Serb people from Ottoman rule.

The Herzegovinian Serbs often rose up against the Ottomans. This led to the Herzegovina Uprising (1875-78). It was supported by Serbia and Montenegro.

Montenegro successfully freed and took over large parts of Herzegovina before the Berlin Congress of 1878. This included the Nikšić area. The historical Herzegovina region that Montenegro took over is known as East or Old Herzegovina.

Modern History (1878-Present)

Flag of Herzegovina (1878-1918)
Flag of Herzegovina during Austro-Hungarian rule in Bosnia and Herzegovina (1878–1918).

After the Treaty of Berlin (1878), Austria-Hungary took control of Herzegovina and Bosnia. They were still officially under Ottoman rule, but Austria-Hungary governed them.

The Serb people in Herzegovina and Bosnia hoped to join Serbia and Montenegro. The Franciscan order opened the first university in Herzegovina in 1895 in Mostar.

In 1908, Austria-Hungary officially took over the province. This led to the Bosnian Crisis. It was an international argument that almost started a world war. It was an important step in the tensions leading up to World War I. The assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand happened because Serbs in Bosnia and Herzegovina were angry about Austro-Hungarian rule.

During World War I, Herzegovina saw conflict between different ethnic groups. The Austro-Hungarian government formed Šuckori, which were Muslim military units. These units were very active in Herzegovina. The persecution of Serbs by Austro-Hungarian authorities was the "first instance of active 'ethnic cleansing' in Bosnia and Herzegovina."

In 1918, Herzegovina became part of the new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. This kingdom was later renamed Kingdom of Yugoslavia. In 1941, Herzegovina came under the rule of the fascist Independent State of Croatia. During World War II, Herzegovina was a battleground. Different groups fought there: fascist Croat Ustaše, royalist Serb Četniks, and communist Yugoslav Partisans. Herzegovina was part of the Independent State of Croatia. It was divided into the counties of Hum and Dubrava.

In 1945, the Socialist Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina became one of the republics in Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. It stayed that way until Yugoslavia broke apart in the early 1990s. During the Bosnian War, much of western and central Herzegovina was controlled by the Croat republic of Herzeg-Bosnia. This republic later joined the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Eastern Herzegovina became part of Republika Srpska.

Herzegovina's Landscape: Geography and Nature

Hercegovacko Neretvanski kanton
Herzegovina in spring at Ivan Sedlo, a mountain pass.
Čvrsnica 0339
Western slopes of Čvrsnica, seen from the Blidinje Plateau.

Herzegovina is a southern region of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Its exact borders have never been clearly set. This applies to its geography, culture, and even its administrative divisions.

The larger region of Bosnia is to the west and north of Herzegovina. The border between these two regions is not very clear. To the south-southwest of Herzegovina is the Croatian region of Dalmatia. To the east-southeast is Montenegro.

The land area of Herzegovina is about 11,500 to 12,300 square kilometers. This is around 23% to 24% of the total area of present-day Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Herzegovina also has a short coastline along the Adriatic Sea, about 20 kilometers long.

NERETVA RIVER VALLEY NEAR POCITELJ
The Neretva river valley.
Park prirode Bilećko jezero Bileća PPP001 42.832399, 18.437960
Bilećko Lake.

Most of Herzegovina's land is hilly karst. This means it has limestone landscapes with caves and underground rivers. There are high mountains in the north, like Čvrsnica and Prenj. The central valley of the Neretva river is an exception. The upper part of the Neretva River is in northern Herzegovina. This area is heavily forested with fast-flowing rivers and tall mountains. The towns of Konjic and Jablanica are in this region.

The Neretva River starts on Lebršnik Mountain, near the Montenegro border. As the river flows west, it enters Herzegovina. The entire upper part of the Neretva is a special natural area. It has many unique and endangered animal and plant species. The river cuts through steep karst terrain. This offers great chances for rafting and kayaking. The beautiful scenery of the mountains and forests around it is perfect for challenging hikes. The Neretva's smaller rivers in the upper parts are mostly short. This is because of the mountainous land. The River Rakitnica has cut a deep canyon. Its waters are one of the least explored areas in this part of Europe. The Rakitnica flows into the Neretva upstream from Konjic. The Neretva then flows northwest, through Konjic. It enters the Jablanica Reservoir (Jablaničko jezero). This is one of the largest reservoirs in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The lake ends near the town of Jablanica. From here, the Neretva turns south, continuing towards the Adriatic Sea. The mountains along its banks slowly get smaller. The Neretva then enters a valley where the city of Mostar is located. It flows under the old bridge (Stari most). It continues, now wider, towards the town of Čapljina. Finally, it reaches the Neretva Delta in Croatia before flowing into the Adriatic Sea.

Major Cities and Towns

The largest city in Herzegovina is Mostar. It is located in the center of the region. Other important towns include Trebinje, Stolac, Široki Brijeg, Posušje, Ljubuški, Tomislavgrad, Grude, Konjic, and Čapljina.

Mostar is the most famous city and is considered the unofficial capital. It is the only city with over 100,000 people. There are no other very large cities in Herzegovina, but some have long and interesting histories.

Stolac, for example, might be Herzegovina's oldest city. People lived there as far back as the Paleolithic period (in Badanj Cave). An Illyrian tribe lived in the city of Daorson. There were several Roman settlements along the Bregava River. Medieval people left large stone grave monuments called stećak in Radimlja. Trebinje, on the Trebišnjica River, is the southernmost city in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is close to the Montenegro border.

Čapljina and Ljubuški are known for their history and their rivers. The village of Međugorje is very important for many Roman Catholics because of its religious significance.

How Herzegovina is Governed Today

In modern Bosnia and Herzegovina, Herzegovina is divided between two main parts of the country. These are Republika Srpska and the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The part of Herzegovina in Republika Srpska is often called East Herzegovina. It is also increasingly known as the "Trebinje Region." This area is divided into smaller administrative units called municipalities. These include Berkovići, Bileća, Gacko, Istočni Mostar, Ljubinje, Nevesinje, and Trebinje.

Within the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Herzegovina is divided into two cantons (like states or provinces). These are Herzegovina-Neretva and West Herzegovina. These two cantons mention the region in their names, often with other places or geographical features. A part of the region also belongs to Canton 10.

Who Lives in Herzegovina? Population and People

Herzegovina1991
Ethnic composition of Herzegovina in 1991.

The people who live in Herzegovina are called Herzegovinians. In Bosnian, this is Hercegovci (male plural) or Hercegovka (female singular). Historically, the population of Herzegovina has been a mix of different ethnic groups. However, the Bosnian War in the 1990s caused many people to be displaced. The last census before the war, in 1991, counted 437,095 residents.

  • Croats generally live in areas closest to the Croatian border. These areas include Mostar, Ljubuški, Široki Brijeg, Čitluk, Grude, Posušje, Čapljina, Neum, Stolac, Ravno, and Prozor-Rama.
  • Bosniaks mainly live in areas along the Neretva River. These include Mostar, Konjic, and Jablanica. They also live significantly in Stolac, Čapljina, Prozor-Rama, and to a lesser extent in Nevesinje, Gacko, and Trebinje.
  • Serbs are the majority in East Herzegovina. This includes the municipalities of Berkovići, Bileća, Gacko, Istočni Mostar, Ljubinje, Nevesinje, and Trebinje.

Here is the ethnic makeup of the West Herzegovina Canton, Herzegovina-Neretva Canton, and East Herzegovina based on the 2013 census:

Ethnic Composition
Ethnic Group Number Percentage
Croats 212,428 55.2%
Bosniaks 94,895 24.7%
Serbs 70,952 18.4%
Others 6,483 1.7%
Total 384,743 100%

Culture and Traditions in Herzegovina

Historical Monuments

Herzegovina has a rich history and a diverse culture. It has many important cultural and historical monuments. Some of these include:

  • Mogorjelo
  • Stari most (Old Bridge)
  • Stećci (medieval tombstones)
  • Tekija (a Dervish monastery)

Religious Beliefs

The Constitution of Bosnia and Herzegovina protects freedom of religion. The main religious groups and their organizations in Herzegovina are:

  • Eparchy of Zahumlje and Herzegovina of the Serbian Orthodox Church
  • Roman Catholic Diocese of Mostar-Duvno and Roman Catholic Diocese of Trebinje-Mrkan
  • Islam (represented by the Islamic Community of Bosnia and Herzegovina)

Music Styles

Herzegovina has unique traditional music styles, including:

  • Ganga: A type of traditional singing.
  • Gusle: A stringed musical instrument.
  • Sevdalinka: A traditional Bosnian folk song genre.

Exploring Herzegovina: Tourism and Attractions

In 2013, a tourism group called "Tourist Cluster Herzegovina" was created. This happened because Herzegovina didn't have its own regional tourism organization. This group includes members from three counties in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina: Herzegovina-Neretva (which has Mostar and Međugorje, attracting the most tourists), Canton 10 (Livno, Tomislavgrad), and West Herzegovina. It also includes parts of Republika Srpska, like Trebinje.

Herzegovina has many beautiful natural landmarks:

  • The Kravica waterfalls, on the Trebižat river, are a popular spot. They are near the city of Ljubuški. Many local people go there to swim when the weather is hot.
  • The Hutovo Blato is a bird reserve. It's one of the most important in Europe and attracts many international bird experts.
  • Vjetrenica is a cave system and a unique natural area. It's near the border with Croatia, in Popovo Polje in the Ravno municipality. The cave hasn't been fully explored yet, but it's open to visitors. Many unique cave-dwelling species have been found there, and more might still be discovered.
  • Blagaj is known as the source of the Buna River. The river comes out of a cave system.
  • Neum is Bosnia and Herzegovina's only coastal town on the Adriatic Sea. It's also a popular place for tourists.
  • Međugorje is one of the most visited places in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It has religious importance for many Roman Catholics.

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