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Mostar

Мостар
Grad Mostar
Град Мостар
City of Mostar
Stari Most with Mostar skyline
Peace Bell Tower
Pasha Mosque
Mostar bazar
Mostar Gymnasium
Mostar observation platform
Flag of Mostar
Flag
Coat of arms of Mostar
Coat of arms
Etymology: Bosnian: mostar, lit.'bridge keeper'
Map of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Mostar)
Map of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Mostar)
Country  Bosnia and Herzegovina
Entity Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Canton  Herzegovina-Neretva
Geographical region Herzegovina
Founded 1452
Area
 • City 1,165.63 km2 (450.05 sq mi)
Elevation
60 m (200 ft)
Population
 • City 113,169
 • Density 97.0883/km2 (251.4575/sq mi)
 • Urban
60,195
Time zone UTC+1 (CET)
 • Summer (DST) UTC+2 (CEST)
Area code(s) +387 (0) 36

Mostar is a beautiful city in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is the main city of the Herzegovina-Neretva Canton and the historic capital of Herzegovina. Mostar is located on the Neretva River and is the fifth-largest city in the country.

The city got its name from the "mostari," who were the bridge keepers. They guarded the famous Stari Most (Old Bridge) over the Neretva River a long time ago. The Old Bridge is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built in the 16th century and is one of the most visited places in Bosnia and Herzegovina. People see it as a great example of Islamic architecture in the Balkans.

Mostar's History

Early Times and the Middle Ages

People have lived near the Neretva River for a very long time. We know this from old forts and cemeteries found there. Even the Romans lived in this area.

Not much is known about Mostar in the Middle Ages. The name Mostar was first used in a document from 1474. It referred to the "mostari" or bridge keepers. They looked after a wooden bridge used by traders and travelers. Mostar became an important trading spot between the Adriatic coast and central Bosnia.

The Ottoman Period

Bazar at Old Bridge in Mostar, Herzegovina
The Old Town Street
Cskt-tavasz mosztarban (1903)
Springtime in Mostar by Tivadar Kosztka Csontváry (1853–1919)

In 1468, the Ottoman Empire took control of the region. Mostar then started to grow into a city. It was called Köprühisar, meaning "fortress at the bridge." The city had two main parts: the čaršija for crafts and trade, and the mahala for homes.

The wooden bridge was rebuilt in stone in 1566. This new bridge, the Old Bridge, was ordered by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. It was about 28 meters long and 20 meters high. People thought it was amazing even back then. The Old Bridge was designed by Mimar Hayruddin. He was a student of the famous Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. A traveler from the 17th century, Evliya Çelebi, said the bridge was "like a rainbow arch soaring up to the skies."

Austrian and Yugoslav Rule

Mostar-1900
People of Mostar in 1890–1900
Stjepan Radic in Mostar, 1925
People waiting for Stjepan Radić in Mostar in 1925

Austria-Hungary took over Bosnia and Herzegovina in 1878. They ruled until 1918, when Mostar became part of Yugoslavia. During this time, Mostar became the main city in Herzegovina. The city council worked with the Austro-Hungarian government to make big changes. They built wide roads and invested in new buildings and services. Famous buildings from this time include Hotel Neretva and the Gimnazija Mostar.

After World War II, Mostar grew a lot. It became a center for making plastics, tobacco, aluminum, and even aircraft. Many dams were built on the Neretva River to create electricity. Mostar was a big industrial and tourist city and did very well during the time of Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. The city's population grew from 18,000 to 100,000 between 1945 and 1980.

In the 1970s and 1980s, people started to care more about Mostar's old buildings. A plan was put in place to protect the old town. This brought many tourists and helped the city's economy. Mostar even won an award for this project in 1986.

The Bosnian War and Its Impact

Mostar-damagedhouses-2-2001
War damage on the former Mostar frontline, 2001

After Bosnia and Herzegovina became independent in 1992, Mostar faced a difficult time. The city was attacked by the Yugoslav People's Army (JNA). Later, fighting broke out between different groups within the city. Mostar became divided, and many buildings were destroyed or badly damaged. This included churches, mosques, and most sadly, the historic Old Bridge.

About 2,000 people died in Mostar during the war. After the war ended in 1995, Mostar was left heavily damaged. The city was divided, with different groups living on different sides of the Neretva River.

Rebuilding Mostar

Bosnia, Mostar, old bridge 2
The Old Bridge undergoing reconstruction in June 2003.

Since the war, Mostar has made great progress in rebuilding. More than 15 million dollars have been spent on fixing up the city. A huge project began in 1999 to rebuild the Old Bridge exactly as it was before. This project was finished in 2004. Many countries helped pay for this, including Spain, the United States, and Turkey. The bridge was officially reopened on July 23, 2004.

In 2005, UNESCO added the Old Bridge and its surrounding area to the World Heritage List. This means it's a very important place that should be protected for everyone. Efforts have also been made to help reunite the city after the war.

Mostar's Architecture

View of Mostar 01
Old Town of Mostar
Mostar gimnasium
Gimnazija Mostar, designed by architect František Blažek
Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, Mostar 01
Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque
Mostar14BIH38
Catholic church and Franciscan monastery of St. Peter and Paul
Sabornihram
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity

Mostar has many interesting buildings with different styles. You can see a mix of old and new, and influences from different cultures. For example, there are Italian-style churches, Ottoman houses, and Orthodox churches.

During the Ottoman rule, many mosques were built. These often included schools or markets. Sadly, many of the old mosques and churches were lost during the 20th century.

Most of the government buildings are from the Austro-Hungarian period. They have a grand, classical look. Many old Ottoman houses still stand, showing how people lived long ago. These houses often have an upper floor for living, a courtyard, and a veranda.

The oldest stone bridge in Mostar is the Kriva Cuprija ("Sloping Bridge"). It was built in 1558 as a test before building the bigger Old Bridge. The Old Bridge was finished in 1566. It is a single-arch stone bridge, a perfect copy of the original. It spans 28.7 meters over the Neretva River. The Halebija and Tara towers at each end of the Old Bridge used to house the bridge guardians.

The Cejvan Cehaj Mosque, built in 1552, is the oldest mosque in Mostar. Near it is the Old Bazaar, Kujundziluk. This market is named after the goldsmiths who used to work there. Today, you can find paintings and carvings of the Old Bridge and local symbols.

The Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque, built in 1617, is open to visitors. You can go inside and even climb the minaret for a great view. Nearby is the Tepa Market, which has been a busy marketplace since Ottoman times. It sells fresh local produce like figs, pomegranates, and honey.

Mostar's Culture

First Croatian printing office in Mostar, 1920
First Croatian printing office in Mostar, 1920

Mostar is a city rich in culture. The magazine Most and the Šantić Poetry Evenings are important for local artists and writers. "Dani Matice Hrvatske" is a big cultural event, often supported by the Croatian and Bosnian governments. "Mostar Summer" is another large event that includes poetry, music, and choir festivals. The city also hosts the "Melodije Mostara" (Mostar Melodies) music festival every year.

Mostar has many art places, including:

  • Croatian Lodge "Herceg Stjepan Kosača"
  • Cultural Center Mostar
  • OKC Abrašević (Abrašević Youth Center)
  • Pavarotti Music Centre
  • Croatian National Theatre in Mostar
  • National Theatre Mostar
  • Museum of the Old Bridge
  • Herzegovina Museum
  • Mostar Youth Theatre
  • Aluminij Gallery
  • Birthplace of Svetozar Ćorović (Aleksa Šantić House)
  • Muslibegović House
  • World Music Centre
  • Puppet Theatre Mostar

Mostar's food mixes Western and Eastern flavors. Traditional dishes are similar to Turkish and Middle Eastern foods. But because of Austrian influence, you can also find Central European dishes. Some popular foods include ćevapčići, burek, sarma, and musaka. For desserts, try baklava or tufahije.

Mostar's Economy

Aluminij Factory Mostar
Aluminij factory

Mostar's economy mainly relies on the aluminium and metal industries. It also has strong banking and telecommunication services. Some of the country's biggest companies are based here.

Mostar is one of the largest financial centers in Bosnia and Herzegovina, along with Sarajevo and Banja Luka. One of the three biggest banks in the country has its main office in Mostar. Also, one of the three national electric companies, postal services, and telecommunication companies is located here. These companies, along with the aluminum factory, make up a big part of the city's economy.

Before the war, Mostar had other important companies that are now closed or much smaller. The Aluminij Industries company is still a major player. It is one of the country's largest exporters and works with many international partners. The city of Mostar gets a lot of money each year from Aluminij.

Mostar also has three dams that produce electricity. There are plans to use wind power and build windmills in the future. Many small and medium businesses have also started up, making the city's business environment better. Mostar also hosts an annual International Economic Fair Mostar, which started in 1997.

Mostar's Population

Historical population
Year Pop. ±% p.a.
1948 45,419 —    
1953 40,559 −2.24%
1961 72,453 +7.52%
1971 89,580 +2.14%
1981 110,371 +2.11%
1991 126,628 +1.38%
2013 105,797 −0.81%

In 2013, the city of Mostar had a population of 60,195 people. The wider area of Mostar had a total population of 105,797.

Who Lives in Mostar?

Mostar's population includes different ethnic groups. In 2013, about 48.4% were Croats, 44.1% were Bosniaks, and 4.1% were Serbs. Mostar has the largest number of Croats in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The population mix changed a lot after the Bosnian War.

The ethnic makeup of Mostar over the years:

Ethnic group 1910 1931 1948 1961 1971 1981 1991 2013
Bosniaks/Muslims 7,212 8,844 9,981 10,513 33,645 34,247 43,856 46,752
Croats 4,307 5,764 6,062 27,265 32,782 36,927 43,037 51,216
Serbs 4,518 5.502 5,039 21,220 19,076 20,271 23,846 4,421
Yugoslavs 12,181 2,329 17,143 12,768 83
Others 355 185 332 1,274 1,748 1,789 3,121 3,408
Total 16,392 20,295 21,606 72,453 89,580 110,377 126,628 105,797

Towns and Neighborhoods

The City of Mostar also includes many smaller towns and neighborhoods, such as:

  • Bačevići
  • Banjdol
  • Blagaj
  • Bogodol
  • Buna
  • Cim
  • Čule
  • Dobrč
  • Donja Drežnica
  • Donji Jasenjani
  • Dračevice
  • Gnojnice
  • Goranci
  • Gornja Drežnica
  • Gornje Gnojnice
  • Gornji Jasenjani
  • Gubavica
  • Hodbina
  • Humilišani
  • Ilići
  • Jasenica
  • Kosor
  • Kremenac
  • Krivodol
  • Kružanj
  • Kutilivač
  • Lakševine
  • Malo Polje
  • Miljkovići
  • Ortiješ
  • Pijesci
  • Podgorani
  • Podgorje
  • Podvelež
  • Polog
  • Potoci
  • Prigrađani
  • Rabina
  • Raška Gora
  • Raštani
  • Ravni
  • Rodoč
  • Selište
  • Slipčići
  • Sovići
  • Sretnice
  • Striževo
  • Vihovići
  • Vojno
  • Vranjevići
  • Vrapčići
  • Vrdi
  • Željuša
  • Žitomislići
  • Žulja

Some villages near Mostar, like Kamena, Kokorina, and Zijemlje, became part of a new area called Istočni Mostar (East Mostar) after the war.

Mostar's Climate

Mostar has a warm climate with hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. In summer, temperatures can sometimes go above 40°C (104°F). The highest temperature ever recorded in Bosnia and Herzegovina was 46.2°C (115.2°F) in Mostar in 1901. January is the coldest month, averaging about 5.6°C (41°F), and July is the warmest, averaging about 25.8°C (78°F).

Mostar is the sunniest city in the country, with about 2291 hours of sunshine each year. Snow is rare and usually melts quickly.

Climate data for Mostar (1981–2010, extremes 1949–present)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 20.0
(68.0)
25.0
(77.0)
27.6
(81.7)
31.5
(88.7)
35.6
(96.1)
41.2
(106.2)
46.2
(115.2)
43.1
(109.6)
38.8
(101.8)
32.5
(90.5)
27.4
(81.3)
19.8
(67.6)
46.2
(115.2)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 9.1
(48.4)
11.1
(52.0)
15.2
(59.4)
19.5
(67.1)
25.1
(77.2)
28.9
(84.0)
32.5
(90.5)
32.7
(90.9)
27.0
(80.6)
21.3
(70.3)
14.4
(57.9)
9.8
(49.6)
20.6
(69.0)
Daily mean °C (°F) 5.6
(42.1)
6.6
(43.9)
10.1
(50.2)
13.8
(56.8)
19.0
(66.2)
22.7
(72.9)
25.8
(78.4)
25.6
(78.1)
20.5
(68.9)
15.7
(60.3)
10.2
(50.4)
6.5
(43.7)
15.2
(59.3)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 2.4
(36.3)
2.9
(37.2)
5.7
(42.3)
8.8
(47.8)
13.2
(55.8)
16.7
(62.1)
19.5
(67.1)
19.6
(67.3)
15.4
(59.7)
11.5
(52.7)
6.8
(44.2)
3.6
(38.5)
10.5
(50.9)
Record low °C (°F) −10.9
(12.4)
−9.6
(14.7)
−6.5
(20.3)
−1.2
(29.8)
3.3
(37.9)
8.0
(46.4)
8.4
(47.1)
9.6
(49.3)
6.4
(43.5)
−0.1
(31.8)
−4.8
(23.4)
−7.8
(18.0)
−10.9
(12.4)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 139
(5.5)
120
(4.7)
127
(5.0)
118
(4.6)
90
(3.5)
70
(2.8)
43
(1.7)
60
(2.4)
122
(4.8)
152
(6.0)
185
(7.3)
176
(6.9)
1,402
(55.2)
Average precipitation days (≥ 1 mm) 9.2 8.4 9.0 10.3 8.2 7.0 4.2 4.8 6.7 8.7 10.5 10.7 97.7
Average snowy days (≥ 1.0 cm) 2.9 1.5 0.6 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 1.2 6.3
Average relative humidity (%) 65.9 63.3 61.0 61.8 62.7 61.2 52.7 53.7 60.1 65.2 69.3 67.4 62.0
Mean monthly sunshine hours 125 129 164 180 240 271 328 306 226 174 120 111 2,374
Source 1: NOAA
Source 2: Meteorological Institute of Bosnia and Herzegovina, altervista.org

Mostar's Government

Panorama Mostara 252520035
Panoramic view of Mostar

Mostar is a municipality with its own city government. The city is led by a mayor. Since February 15, 2021, the mayor has been Mario Kordić.

After the Bosnian War, there were efforts to reunite the city. A new plan for how the city would be run was put in place in 2004. This plan aimed to create one unified city government instead of several smaller ones. This helped to reduce duplicate services and costs.

However, there were still challenges in how elections were held. For several years, local elections could not take place in Mostar. This was because of disagreements over the rules. Finally, in July 2020, new laws were passed. This allowed local elections to happen in Mostar in December 2020.

Past Mayors of Mostar

# Portrait Name Term of Office Party
1 President Ismail and members Muhamed, Ahmed, Huršid, Javer, Jure, Ivan, Lazar 1871 1878
2 Muhamed-beg Alajbegović
(Deputy: Blaško Zelenika)
6 August 1878 May 1890
3 Ibrahim-beg Kapetanović January 1890 6 January 1897
4 Ahmet-beg Hadžiomerović June 1897 December 1907
5 Mustafa Mujaga Komadina 1909 2 November 1918
6 Smail-aga Ćemalović 1919 1929
7 Ibrahim Fejić
(Sub-mayors: Ljubo Krulj and Vlatko Tambić)
1929 1934
8 Muhamed Ridžanović 1935 1935
9 Husaga Ćišić 1935 1940
10 Husein Metiljević 1940 1941
11 Šefkija Balić 1941 1941
12 Muhamed Butum 1941 1942
13 Salih Efica "Crni" 1942 1945
14 Salko Fejić 1945 1946
15 Vilko Šnatinger 1946 1947
16 Manojlo Ćabak 1947 1949
17 Mustafa Sefo 1949 March 1958
18 Vaso Gačić August 1958 October 1961
19 Dušan Vukojević October 1961 February 1963
20 Muhamed Mirica November 1963 May 1967
21 Avdo Zvonić May 1967 May 1969
22 Radmilo – Braca Andrić May 1969 May 1974
23 Izet Brković May 1974 June 1976
24 Dževad Derviškadić June 1976 April 1982
25 Vlado Smoljan April 1982 July 1983
26 Nikola Gašić July 1983 July 1985
27 Damjan Rotim July 1985 April 1986
28 Nijaz Topuzović "Toza" April 1986 April 1988
29 Jovo Popara 14 December 1988 14 December 1990
30 Milivoj Gagro 14 December 1990 1992 HDZ BiH
31 Mijo Brajković
Safet Oručević
1992 1996 HDZ BiH
SDA
32 Ivan Prskalo
Deputy: Safet Oručević
1996 2000 HDZ BiH
SDA
33 Neven Tomić
Deputy: Hamdija Jahić
2000 December 2004 HDZ BiH
SDA
34 Ljubo Bešlić
Deputy: Hamdija Jahić
December 2004 18 December 2009 HDZ BiH
SDA
35 Ljubo Bešlić 18 December 2009 15 February 2021 HDZ BiH
36 Mario Kordić 15 February 2021 Incumbent HDZ BiH

Mostar's Education

Gymnasium Mostar 1898-1902 Gimnazija Mostar damaged B-War renovated 2009 United World College Foto Wolfgang Pehlemann DSCN6157
Gymnasium Mostar (built 1898–1902) within United World College
Grb-SveMo
University of Mostar Seal

Mostar has many schools and universities. There are two main universities: University of Mostar and University Džemal Bijedić of Mostar. The city also has nineteen high schools and twenty-four elementary schools.

Public schools in Mostar are divided into different groups based on their curriculum. This division started during the Bosnian War and still exists today. However, some schools, like Gimnazija Mostar, are trying to bring students together. They have shared administration and some joint classes.

The University of Mostar is the second-largest university in the country. It is the only university in Bosnia and Herzegovina where classes are taught in Croatian. It started in 1977. The University Džemal Bijedić of Mostar was founded in 1993. Both universities are working to improve and become more competitive.

As of 2015, the University of Mostar had over 10,712 students. More than 40,000 students have attended it since it started following the Bologna Process for education.

Mostar's Sports

One of the most popular sports in Mostar is football. The two biggest teams are HŠK Zrinjski and FK Velež. FK Velež won the Yugoslav Cup twice in the 1980s. After the Bosnian War, each club became supported by a different ethnic group. Matches between them are very exciting. HŠK Zrinjski has won the Premier League of Bosnia and Herzegovina eight times.

In basketball, HKK Zrinjski Mostar plays at the highest national level. The city also has a top handball team, Zrinjski. Many famous athletes come from Mostar, like Vahid Halilhodžić, a former football player and coach.

In 2011, a rugby union club called RK Herceg was started. They play in national and regional leagues.

Swimming is also popular in Mostar. There are three swimming teams: PK Velež, KVS Orka, and APK Zrinjski. The best swimmer from Bosnia and Herzegovina, Lana Pudar, is from Mostar. Mostar has many talented swimmers, even with limited swimming pools.

Mostar's Transport

Rail Travel

The city has the Mostar railway station. You can take trains from here to the capital city and also to Croatia.

Air Travel

OMO4
Mostar International Airport

Mostar is a popular place for tourists. The Mostar International Airport serves the city. There are also bus stations that connect Mostar to many places both inside and outside the country. The Old Town of Mostar is a major tourist spot, and the Stari Most is its most famous landmark.

Mostar's Tourist Attractions

Mostar has many interesting places to visit. These include the Bishop's Ordinariate building and the remains of an early Christian church at Cim. You can also see a hamam (an old public bath), a clock tower (sahat-kula), and the Synagogue from 1889.

Other important sites are the Nesuh-aga Vučjaković Mosque, Hadži-Kurt Mosque, and the Metropolitan's Palace. The Karagöz Bey Mosque (1557) and the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (1873) are also worth seeing. Don't miss the old Ottoman houses, the Crooked Bridge, and the Tara and Halebija Towers.

The World War II Partisan Memorial Cemetery in Mostar is another important symbol of the city. It was designed by Bogdan Bogdanović. This monument combines nature and architecture beautifully. It was recognized as a National Monument in 2006.

Nearby places to visit include the Catholic pilgrimage site of Međugorje. You can also see the Tekija Dervish Monastery in Blagaj and the 13th-century town of Počitelj. Other attractions are the Blagaj Fortress, Kravica waterfall, and the seaside town of Neum. There's also the Roman villa rustica at Mogorjelo and Stolac with its ancient tombstones called stećaks. Nature lovers can visit the Hutovo Blato park, Lake Boračko, and the Vjetrenica cave, which is the largest cave in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Notable People from Mostar

  • Dušan Bajević, footballer
  • Aleksa Šantić, poet
  • Sergej Barbarez, footballer
  • Bojan Bogdanović, basketball player
  • Svetozar Ćorović, writer
  • Vladimir Ćorović, historian
  • Ivan Ćurković, footballer
  • Dražen Dalipagić, basketball player, Olympic champion
  • Dejan Damjanović, footballer
  • Osman Đikić, poet
  • Franjo Džidić, footballer
  • Amina Kajtaz, swimmer
  • Meho Kodro, footballer
  • Zoran Mandlbaum, leader of the Jewish Community of Mostar
  • Enver Marić, footballer
  • Marino Marić, handball player
  • Predrag Matvejević, writer
  • Ćamila Mičijević, handball player
  • Florijan Mićković, sculptor
  • Gordan Mihić, playwright
  • Ahmed Rushdi Mostari, poet
  • Fevzi Mostari, writer
  • Vlado Mrkić, writer and journalist
  • Muhamed Mujić, footballer, Olympic medalist
  • Dragi Sestic, music producer
  • Saša Papac, footballer
  • Boro Primorac, footballer
  • Lana Pudar, swimmer
  • Nino Raspudić, philosopher
  • Ismet Rizvić, painter
  • Dženan Salković, singer and songwriter
  • Željko Samardžić, singer
  • Aleksa Šantić, writer
  • Marin Šego, handball player
  • Blaž Slišković, footballer
  • Arif Smajkic, medical researchers and academic
  • Branka Sovrlić, singer
  • Jasmin Spahić, retired Bosnian footballer
  • Sergej Trifunović, actor
  • Ornela Vištica, actress
  • Franjo Vladić, footballer
  • Hasan Ziyayi, poet

Twin Towns and Sister Cities

Mostar is connected with these cities around the world:

  • Jordan Amman, Jordan
  • Turkey Antalya, Turkey
  • Italy Arsoli, Italy
  • Turkey İzmir, Turkey
  • Turkey Kayseri, Turkey
  • Italy Montegrotto Terme, Italy
  • North Macedonia Ohrid, North Macedonia
  • Croatia Osijek, Croatia
  • Norway Orkland, Norway
  • Croatia Split, Croatia
  • Serbia Tutin, Serbia
  • Croatia Vukovar, Croatia
  • Italy Bassano del Grappa, Italy

See also

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